bolt in cage
#1
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Car: 1984 chevy camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: turbo 350 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 detroit locker posi
bolt in cage
where would i find a bolt in cage for an 84 camaro? i cant weld and dont have anybody to weld for me. anybody got any sites or places that sell them? thanks
#2
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Car: '82 Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: TKO 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 31 spline 9" with 4.56:1
Re: bolt in cage
Don't know of anyone selling one and not real sure I would want one just bolted in.... Might want to check in the regional posts and find someone in your area here on the 3rd gen site that would do a bit of welding for you!!!! Wish you lived a bit closer, be glad to help you out!!!!!
#3
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: bolt in cage
There are no "bolt in" kits available. If you're looking for something that completely bolts together like a pickup truck light bar (fake roll bar), you're just adding extra weight to the car with no increase in safety.
The only part of a bolt in design is how the cage attaches to the floor. Under the rulebook information, a cage must be welded to a 6x6 plate that's welded to the floor. The plate can be bolted to the floor as long as there's another 6x6 plate under the floor and there's a minimum of four 3/8" bolts through each plate.
If you check on the top and bottom of a third gen floor, you wouldn't find many area's big or flat enough to have a plate on the top and bottom of the floor or in the proper locations to put the roll bar tubes. Even if you did, all the rest of the tubes still need to be welded together.
Roll bar kits are cheap. Installation is what costs the most money. If you "need" a roll bar, have it properly installed. If you don't need it, there's no sense adding the extra weight just for show.
The only part of a bolt in design is how the cage attaches to the floor. Under the rulebook information, a cage must be welded to a 6x6 plate that's welded to the floor. The plate can be bolted to the floor as long as there's another 6x6 plate under the floor and there's a minimum of four 3/8" bolts through each plate.
If you check on the top and bottom of a third gen floor, you wouldn't find many area's big or flat enough to have a plate on the top and bottom of the floor or in the proper locations to put the roll bar tubes. Even if you did, all the rest of the tubes still need to be welded together.
Roll bar kits are cheap. Installation is what costs the most money. If you "need" a roll bar, have it properly installed. If you don't need it, there's no sense adding the extra weight just for show.
#4
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Re: bolt in cage
you can get a bolt in roll bar from AUTOPOWER.
they make all the parts to upgrade later on as well (if you want)
then oneday. if you like you can add the plates and weld it up..
and add to it from a 4 point to/ 6 point/ 8 point and on and on...
he's right about the plates.. mine is also part of the subframe now as well.
(south side mech) car will sit on 3 jack stand's. and the doors will close with a finger tip.. thats sweet.. and seal as well...
they make all the parts to upgrade later on as well (if you want)
then oneday. if you like you can add the plates and weld it up..
and add to it from a 4 point to/ 6 point/ 8 point and on and on...
he's right about the plates.. mine is also part of the subframe now as well.
(south side mech) car will sit on 3 jack stand's. and the doors will close with a finger tip.. thats sweet.. and seal as well...
#5
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Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
Re: bolt in cage
I have the Autopower, 4 point. It is decent and easy to install. Mine is mild steel which adds weight though.
#6
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Re: bolt in cage
May want to check those mounting plates on the Autopower cage.
http://jalopnik.com/5390934/mustang-...yline=true&s=x
http://jalopnik.com/5390934/mustang-...yline=true&s=x
Last edited by GMan 3MT; 10-28-2009 at 09:12 AM. Reason: updated link
#7
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Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
Re: bolt in cage
To be fair, a weld in 4 pt bar would not have really helped in that extreme circumstance. My feel is it would have punched through just like this. Mounting location is probably the issue even it if had been welded.
Also, my IHRA rulebook says you can bolt in the main hoop if the car does not have a full frame (subframe connectors do not count). My Autopower bar has appropriately sized plates per IHRA regs. Granted it isn't a 6pt, but I would say it offers some level of protection beyond a purely cosmetic bar and can be converted if needed.
It isn't a bad choice for something that fits pretty well and can be welded later, especially for a self built street car.
Interesting crash though. I'm looking into upgrading my bar and this just makes you consider these details.
Also, my IHRA rulebook says you can bolt in the main hoop if the car does not have a full frame (subframe connectors do not count). My Autopower bar has appropriately sized plates per IHRA regs. Granted it isn't a 6pt, but I would say it offers some level of protection beyond a purely cosmetic bar and can be converted if needed.
It isn't a bad choice for something that fits pretty well and can be welded later, especially for a self built street car.
Interesting crash though. I'm looking into upgrading my bar and this just makes you consider these details.
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#8
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iTrader: (56)
Re: bolt in cage
my subframe is 2x3 steel tubing.. the plate's are bolted into and out of the subframe with the plates welded to the floor pan above it.
(southside mech) made the subframe.the subframe is stich welded to body pan? every 2" weld 2 " skip 2" all the way down the sides to the back.
(southside mech) made the subframe.the subframe is stich welded to body pan? every 2" weld 2 " skip 2" all the way down the sides to the back.
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