JTNKTZ

iTrader: (10)

I am buying my first welder and will be learning to weld on it. I am looking at a new Hobart Handler 187 MIG Welder 230V 180 Amp for 300 bucks. What would you guys suggest?

grumpyvette

that's a decent welder,buying a decent 220 volt/180 amp welder vs a little 110 volt 140 amp is a smart choice, Ive used them in the past, my freind has one he loves, just don,t forget youll need to get the correct accessories and some welding classes sure won,t hurt, just remember to get the shield gas tanks and gauges and a self darkening face shield, and get a decent fire extinguisher

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...hp?f=60&t=1669

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/....php?f=60&t=72

I bought this one (mig)
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...llermatic_252/
and this ARC
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...t.aspx?p=45349

after using a similar 180 amp mig made by lincoln for a few years

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...t.aspx?p=42422
and a little 110 volt 140 amp mig
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...t.aspx?p=59618
for the little jobs

JTNKTZ

iTrader: (10)

What are the "correct" accessories I should be getting?
Where can I purchase the shield gas tanks and I believe it comes with guages..

grumpyvette

your local miller,lincoln, or hobart dealer or local welding supply can rent or sell you tanks, the gases selected depend on what your welding and the wire used, youll want a set of leather gloves and a self darkening face shield at a MINIMUM

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...hp?f=60&t=1283

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...hp?f=60&t=1108

example
one of my less than smart buddies comes over and I notice hes limping slightly, I ask whats wrong, figuring he twisted an ankle or stubbed a toe, seems he was wearing sneakers and synthetic socks while welding on his car and a bit of molten crap dropped on his sneaker , it burned right thru the fabric instantly and wedged between his big toe and the one next to it and started cooking the surrounding areas, naturally my buddies noticed the process and has started, cussing & hopping around on one foot while trying to remove melted rubber, burning fabric and cooked toes from his damaged sneaker. he finally resorted to hopping over to the sink in the shop and turning on the tap then needed to cut the sneaker off as the cooled molten slag made it really painful to try to remove his foot as it was entangled with now cooled but recently molten plastic and the combo had locked together trapping his toes in the damaged sneaker.
now Im not about to B.S. you guys Ive welded wearing sandals once or twice, so I get dumb at times also, but taking the time to wear a leather apron and engineering boots , and a heavy denim shirt, and keeping a garden hose with a nozzle turned on, near by and a fire extinguisher handy sure seems to be a decent precaution, if you saw my buddies foot you probably would never weld unless you were standing in a 55 gallon drum filled with cold water

all that could be prevented with some cheap,semi-decent safety equipment




http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Heavy-...ves-Red-/H3145


http://www.grizzly.com/products/Leat...acket-XL/H9888


http://www.grizzly.com/products/Leat...w-42-Bib/H7435



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46092

grumpyvette

BTW theres a HUGE difference between actually MIG welding and just running flux core wire thru a mig machine



http://www.thefabricator.com/ArcWeld...cle.cfm?ID=929

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...hp?f=60&t=1283

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...hp?f=60&t=1108

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/....php?f=60&t=72


MIG - (Metal Inert Gas) mig is basically a wire thats fed constantly into the weld area that got current running thru it, it melts both the metal and itself as its consumed/melted by the arc



http://www.autobody101.com/articles/...le=Mig+Welding

MIG is the easiest process of welding. A feeding gun is used to feed a spool of filler metal wire into the weld pool. Current is usually switched on and off by means of a trigger on the gun. Amps are usually controlled by a dial on the MIG machine itself, meaning that you cannot instantly and constantly adjust current in the middle of welding. Though, with some machines you are able to get a foot pedal to control Amps while welding. the shield gas prevents the molten metal from oxidizing, and that significantly strengthens the weld in some applications

read this
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...sfluxcored.asp

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

ya molting bb's dont feel good. been there done that. Still do.
Get a good mask. and gloves.

spend all the $ you can on a GOOD welder. You deff. get your $'s worth.
I had a millermatic 250 and liked it.

If i was you Id look at the SP175 older lincolins. or the miller 180's both good machines but should do what ever you want.

buy some scrap metal and tube and just practice,practice,practice. SAFTY deff. comes 1st just remember that. eye protection if you grinding. been to the er a few times to get metal removed from my eye and its not fun.

JTNKTZ

iTrader: (10)

http://www.hobartwelders.com/product...ed/handler187/
I bought that one for 300 bucks new in box. :P

iroc a 86 berli

damn, u lucky bastard thats a $700 welder! how the hell did u get such a deal?

BlueIroc-Z

iTrader: (6)

Same question from me. That is a crazy good deal on a brand new welder!!!

I'm looking for a welder as well. Looking to do some custom SFC's. I've been looking mostly at used 110's though cause they're cheaper and my budget is probably too low anyway @ $200-ish...

grumpyvette

don,t waste cash on a $200 flux core 90 amp welder theres about nothing thicker than exhaust pipe it will weld or have look good once its done
example
my brother-in -law bought this

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94056

it overheats and shuts off for 5 minutes every 3 minutes of weld time and does a less than impressive job even on exhaust pipes

so he returned it and bought this

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43550

not that he needed it, but it welds fine, for what he does which is minor repairs and mostly exhaust systems,

now its not nearly the machine this one below is, but its serviceable and cost significantly less

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...c_212_autoset/


this is a decent buy, (one of my friends bought recently, it does a very nice job on basic repairs)

http://www.welders-direct.com/mercha...t_Code=K2473-1

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

heck of a deal. I didn't check the 1st link. Jut seen you were looking at hobarts.the lower line ones arnt that great. Thats $649 here local at sears.

So for $300 you got a killer deal.

JTNKTZ

iTrader: (10)

It's not what you know it's who you know. :P

I have a friend whose dad just passed and he owned a car restoration shop and just wanted to get rid of it. He said he will be giving me a tank too. Didn't describe on what kind but I'm hoping it's the shielded gas tank.

mesosneaky

I want a welder too. my price range would be around 300 mostly just exhaust work.

tom3

I have a Hobart 135. Amazing how easy it is to weld with it. Good deal there.

BlueIroc-Z

iTrader: (6)

I don't know if that was specifically directed towards me, but don't worry, I will not be going for the HarborFreight cheapy, or its equivalents. I have been looking at used Lincolns, Hobarts, Millers, etc. on craigslist and eBay. I'm just holding out 'till I can find a really good deal on one, preferably in the $200-ish range. Probably not likely I'll find one, but it doesn't hurt to look.

grumpyvette

the infos general, and hopefully helpful,not directed at anyone

grumpyvette

the infos general, and hopefully helpful,not directed at anyone
BTW you WILL occasionally find deals when a fabrication or welding shop or dealership closes, I know one guy that bought a 350 amp miller tig like this
for $6000 that was almost new when a factory closed

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...driven/big_40/