cprepared125

in the process of finalizing my 3-link conversion and i was wondering if anyone had an idea about the upper link angle. the way i've planned it i'll have anywhere from 0-10deg. of adjustment up or down is 10* going to be enough downward angle or should i leave myself the option of going more

AlkyIROC

For normal street driving, parallel to the bottom bars is fine.

Like a 4-link system, it's better to have a specific IC point. Roughly 54-57" out from the diff centerline and 3-5" off the ground would be a good starting point. It's going to depend on how the bottom bars are angled.

Like any other suspension adjustments, the proper alignment is a tuning aid and each situation needs a different setting.

cprepared125

this is on a dedicated autocross car. my lca's are about parallel if not running slightly up hill to the front

rayar

iTrader: (1)

When I built my 3 link I also heard 10 degree. It was not enough for my car and I am now closer to 20 degrees and could probably use more. My LCA's are also slightly angled up towards the front and are stock with poly bushings that I am planning on going with rod ends someday. The upper link is 15-16 inches long and is a torque absorber style. A CP car should be sprung stiff enough that even with a short upper link, pinion angle changes should be minimal. A shorter upper link should plant the tires harder. One thing I am going to play with next year is roll center height. Basically the height of your panhard bar. I used to think it wouldn't matter much but the more I read on the subject the more I believe raising my rear roll center will help my car out a bunch for both forward and side bite .

I also think that the type of surface you run on will make a difference. I run on fairly slick asphalt and get pretty good traction when it is warm out but our last 2 events where in 40-50 degree weather and I was struggling with very little forward bite even with the big 27x14x16 rear tires. I have a feeling on concrete the car would hook up great.

When I was building my car everyone on the CP list told me to ditch the Torque arm. I was going to do a decoupled torque arm but was told that a 3 link will work better and be much more adjustable. The thing I find funny is Darrell Padberg's multi time nationals winning Mustang has been converted to a torque arm and is consistently faster then most. Don't get me wrong I am very happy with my 3 link but feel that I could have made a decoupled torque arm work just as good with a lot less fabricating work.

I recommend checking the CP list. There is a lot of good info and a few helpfull people but it seems like if you haven't been a long time CPer and been to multiple nationals you are kinda treated like an outsider. I don't post there anymore.

cprepared125

thanks rayar i'll just be sure to leave myself the option of going 20-25 degrees if i need. also if your looking for new lca's all three camaros in my club run these they seem to work good http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/40081/10002/-1

rayar

iTrader: (1)

Those look pretty nice but I plan to build my own with rod ends and some swedged threaded tubing from Speedway. Or maybe I will just do some cutting and welding on my Stock(but boxed) arms and add a rod end on one side like the Jegs arms. Not sure yet.