Engine stand
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Car: 1988 convertible Z28 I think
Engine: 30 over 350 carbed and HEI
Transmission: T5 5speed
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 327posi disk brakes
Engine stand
While recouping funds for the vert rebuild in process I decided to build an engine stand good enough to run and break in an engine on.My neighbor was having trouble with an engine and had to keep installing and removing his race engine because of a mystery oil leak while running.This motivated me to build this contraption.I have never seen one but I figure they are out there.
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There will be a tach,oil pressure gauge and temp gauge in the wood piece.I still need to fab up some kind of throttle control that can be locked at a specific rpm for break in.
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I think I will be using an electric fuel pump in connection to an old plastic boat tank.So far the only thing I have had to buy are the wheels.Neighbor is donating some old gauges and my vert donated it's bent K-member.Let me know what you guys think.I like it.
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There will be a tach,oil pressure gauge and temp gauge in the wood piece.I still need to fab up some kind of throttle control that can be locked at a specific rpm for break in.
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I think I will be using an electric fuel pump in connection to an old plastic boat tank.So far the only thing I have had to buy are the wheels.Neighbor is donating some old gauges and my vert donated it's bent K-member.Let me know what you guys think.I like it.
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Engine stand
It's interesting that you used an old K-member in your build however if you need to pull the oil pan off, you'll need to lift the engine up. Cut the center out and fabricate a drop center.
I have everything in or around my garage to build a really trick runup stand including a good platform for the base but never got around to building one.
I have everything in or around my garage to build a really trick runup stand including a good platform for the base but never got around to building one.
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Car: 1988 convertible Z28 I think
Engine: 30 over 350 carbed and HEI
Transmission: T5 5speed
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 327posi disk brakes
Re: Engine stand
I used the K-member because it already has the proper angles and such for the motor mounts.This is my first serious attempt at fabricating anything.Actually got better at the welding skills while building it.It will be modified as time goes.Modifying for oil pan removal is a good idea to think about.
Whenever I start on my AMC engine mods for the Jeep I will have to add onto the rear of it for a bellhousing mount system.This may open up the possibility to mount Ford engines as well.
Thanks for the input and ideas.
Whenever I start on my AMC engine mods for the Jeep I will have to add onto the rear of it for a bellhousing mount system.This may open up the possibility to mount Ford engines as well.
Thanks for the input and ideas.
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Re: Engine stand
How did you determine what size angle would be strong enough?
Have you taken into account the vibration that engine is going to be put out? Weld placement is going to be just as critical as getting a good weld.
You mentioned your welding skills getting better as the project goes on. I wouldn't use something like this to learn on. Dumping a 500+lb engine on the ground because one of your learning welds wasn't strong enough or in the right place doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Mathius
Have you taken into account the vibration that engine is going to be put out? Weld placement is going to be just as critical as getting a good weld.
You mentioned your welding skills getting better as the project goes on. I wouldn't use something like this to learn on. Dumping a 500+lb engine on the ground because one of your learning welds wasn't strong enough or in the right place doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Mathius
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Car: 1988 convertible Z28 I think
Engine: 30 over 350 carbed and HEI
Transmission: T5 5speed
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 327posi disk brakes
Re: Engine stand
The angle iron I used for the gauge table legs is as thick as the K-member supporting the engine.Everything else is thicker than that.The first engine I use will probably be the one in the pic I used for mock up.It's scrap heap bound anyway.I was also planning on supporting it with my forklift on the first try just in case it does cave in. It may be a flop but nobody learns without at least trying.
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Car: 82 Sport coupe
Engine: 355 semi roller
Transmission: TH-350 B&M ratchet shifter
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
Re: Engine stand
looks like a solid start stand man!i have one similar but i have no wheels on it.my engine bolts up with the bellhousing bolts and the bolt holes in front around the timing cover. paint that thing itll look better.
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Car: 1987 Iroc-z Convertible
Re: Engine stand
I like the ones like the blue one and I saw this wooden one on ebay earlier. I have plans for a really good one too just have to get around to getting the steel and everything.
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Car: 1988 convertible Z28 I think
Engine: 30 over 350 carbed and HEI
Transmission: T5 5speed
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 327posi disk brakes
Re: Engine stand
I guess mine turned out similar to the blue one,looks like there would be air pocket issues with the radiator that low though.If it holds up I will probably add on to the front and do something different with the radiator mount.I don't care much for the way mine turned out.
I am going to pull the engine off and paint it this week sometime.Was going to today but got a case of the don't want-to's.
That wooden one looks a little scary,but it looks like they put some pretty stout engines on it.
I am going to pull the engine off and paint it this week sometime.Was going to today but got a case of the don't want-to's.
That wooden one looks a little scary,but it looks like they put some pretty stout engines on it.
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Car: 1987 Iroc-z Convertible
Re: Engine stand
I didn't like the wooden one at all either definitely scary but with the big block on it if they ran it must be ok I guess. The one I have plans for the tanks are welded at the base of the stand. extra work but looks good also the back portion is the top to an engine stand the 4 legged deal that adjust. It is a pdf file so I can't post the pic to it.
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Car: '01 GMC Sierra
Engine: 5.3L
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 3.73 eaton locker
Re: Engine stand
It looks pretty good for a first fabrication project. Keep building stuff and you will only get better.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Engine stand
Looks slick guys!
I made one like this.
I just used a normal engine stand, the H leg style (4, not 3 leg). I just cut off the 1" long tubes that the bolts go through, and welded in 6" long 1/2" pipe there. That kicks the engine out further, so that the flywheel can be in place. Then I took some 3/16" plate, drilled holes using the stock motor mounts, and bolts the plates to the engine. Then cut some 2" square tube to join my plates, to the legs of the engine stand, and voila, it's sturdy. My jerry can, battery, and gauges are all on the ground, so it's less complete then yours, but still very functional.
Got a video on youtube of mine in use... search sonix69 I think it is.
I made one like this.
I just used a normal engine stand, the H leg style (4, not 3 leg). I just cut off the 1" long tubes that the bolts go through, and welded in 6" long 1/2" pipe there. That kicks the engine out further, so that the flywheel can be in place. Then I took some 3/16" plate, drilled holes using the stock motor mounts, and bolts the plates to the engine. Then cut some 2" square tube to join my plates, to the legs of the engine stand, and voila, it's sturdy. My jerry can, battery, and gauges are all on the ground, so it's less complete then yours, but still very functional.
Got a video on youtube of mine in use... search sonix69 I think it is.
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Car: 88 IROC, 76 Malibu Classic
Engine: 350 TPI, 350
Transmission: 700R4, 4-speed
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt ????
Re: Engine stand
i watched that video. that looks pretty cool sonix. you could easily modify it if you wanted to but it works good.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Engine stand
Yea, I don't break in all that many engines, so it's hard to justify too much work on it... I might mount the oil pressure gauge and tach a little more permanently in the future, next time I use the stand (maybe this winter, to find my oil leak....)
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Car: 1988 convertible Z28 I think
Engine: 30 over 350 carbed and HEI
Transmission: T5 5speed
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 327posi disk brakes
Re: Engine stand
Thanks for the good input guys.I took the mock up engine off tonight and painted it.Was pretty cool only took like five minutes and the engine was off.I forgot to mention in the earlier posts that I also need to get new motor mounts.The rubber inside one has had it and a previous owner welded the other onto the K-member.May try to get the gauges mounted and figure out a throttle assembly.I'm thinking of a thumb throttle some people use on 4X4's.I'm going to try and make something first.
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Car: 1988 RS Camaro
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Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Engine stand
How did you determine what size angle would be strong enough?
Have you taken into account the vibration that engine is going to be put out? Weld placement is going to be just as critical as getting a good weld.
You mentioned your welding skills getting better as the project goes on. I wouldn't use something like this to learn on. Dumping a 500+lb engine on the ground because one of your learning welds wasn't strong enough or in the right place doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Mathius
Have you taken into account the vibration that engine is going to be put out? Weld placement is going to be just as critical as getting a good weld.
You mentioned your welding skills getting better as the project goes on. I wouldn't use something like this to learn on. Dumping a 500+lb engine on the ground because one of your learning welds wasn't strong enough or in the right place doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Mathius
Nice stand! maybe you could actually mod it to be a flexplate dyno! That would be cool!
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