a slight angle wont hurt them mine are pretty close, but not exactly dead nuts straight, besides the link ends move in two diffrent arcs so depending on compression or extension it will change slightly. i also used pre cut ends on the bar ( i just didnt feel like doing that much work on chrome-moly sheet to get 4 identical parts) but the rest is made by me, the other simpler way to do it would be to put the anti roll bar on the axle and have the links pointed to the front and only links going up to the rails or something, or if you want mostly bolt on bmr i think has their drag bar looks like it might fit a nine inch im not shure though id call before i ordered that.
and the dont worry about that thing is about the pillows and fabric and stuff in the photobucket account, have to figure out how to make them private lol

 

lol.. I was gonna ask who sells that stuff you or a missis...lol. J/K
shoot me an e-mail if you want any pic's added to my collection here
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/other3rdgens/
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/oth...marospictures/

 

nah not right now, wouldnt want to bring down the real race cars with this wannabe street car, maybe the next project ....that one will be a real race car. but thanks anyway, im just trying to help someone out and build on a reasonable budget, thats why i built 90 % of the parts on this. I also have a tig handy so i can do cro-mo and aluminium opens up things a bit. hey what do you think of vanishing point stuff anyway neighbor dude is chompin at the bit for a BAD s10

 

Thanks for all the info car_fixer...I really do appreciate it...where are you from?

 

vanishing point does some work. I guess if your racing PRO and for the big $/points etc. Id drop the coin for something done by a shop.

I like to do as much as I can myself. Rear check out other setups get great ideas and go for it. I can mig/tig/fab so do what I can. Only thing I won't do is paint it myself. Or I'll be doing alot of wetsanding and another coat, etc..

 

origanally new york (dont tell) but i live in georgia now, yall (trying to blend in lol) and no problem on the help, i understand the budget thing and also have first hand experiance that these cars can go pretty quick without backhalfing them, yeah i know there are benefits about backhalfing but do they justify the cost? you can go pick up a used back halfed car on racingjunk cheeper then you can build one, but will it be right, is it bent? do you fit it etc. so keeping with the goal of lets use 9.99 thats no problem on stock suspension type cars the strength of the cage becomes very important though the more triangles the better is a good way to put it just dont make it really heavy. when you are ready to really step it up and go say 7's get a tube car and do it right, built properly they are lighter and usually safer, also more adjustable in the right hands. you really dont want to be in a 3500 lb car that will do 7's if it gets out of shape, it take alot longer to stop rolling (on the wheels or not) and usually go through walls insted of bounce off them. so yes the car as is, is not perfect with a few changes it can be alot better, like these cars just werent ment for a big block so you need to make adjustment accordingly, like a mid plate, that puts the torque close to the strongest part of the car, the firewall. and the rear suspension is well like a tripod and really wants to roll to the side, this is bad for 2 reasons, 1. it will turn the rear in the car , one lower control arm is getting longer and the other is getting shorter, result car goes right. 2. its taking weight off the left side , usually resulting in wheelspin. so controlling the roll and torque are kinda connected, and once you can do that you will have a more consistant car that you can tune to go faster since it does the same thing time after time (hopefully) then it comes down to ok it turns right a little, adjust the anti roll bar just a slight bit and see what it does(if the car is stiff and the bar is stiff only small changes are needed to get it right, then you probably wont need to touch it) then if you go straight, then you can add some more power, not before it goes straight, like when i go to the track, i make a pass without nitrous to make shure everything is ok (it leaves with the wheels up on engine no bottle) then i turn the nitrous on. and also any time you make a big change just do short hops to make shure its going to do what you expect, then go a little further and work up to a full pass, never ever go to a track untested and go all out the first pass, after you are comfotable in the car then when you go to diffrent tracks you have some idea what it should feel like and have some idea what to do about it, try to keep the variables to a minimum when testing new changes too, and keep lots of notes, pick up a log book and use it, then you can open the book at home and say ok last time i didnt like this, how can i fix it, like i couldnt see the shift light , so where can i move it etc. thats just really some basic advice but sometimes we all forget the basics when racing so just make a habit to make notes and if you have video you can look at it and read the notes and say ok what can i do diffrent. kinda off the subject but sorta relative babbleing sorry about the long post

 

Yeah I hear you on the minimize variables idea. My problem is that I'm at school, got the car a year and a half ago from a junkyard as a shell, and I'm trying to go fast. I haven't had the time to figure any one combination out, and I've tried to save money on a few drivetrain parts, and it's proven to be counter productive. They are my weak point, and I can't get enough consecutive runs without breakage to tune anything. That's why I'm asking all the silly questions. My dad has a fast car, but he's had the thing for 5 years now, and knows it alot better than I know mine. He's had it long enough that he can change one thing a week and see if it helps. I change one thing a day, and when I race next, I've changed 6 things, one fails, and I'm wondering how the other 5 worked. Once school is done in the spring, I'll have more time and money to put in the car. For being 20 years old, I have a respectfully quick car, that was virtually totalled when I started with it. I'm still learning, and it's difficult to be smarter than the people you take advice from, that's why I'm asking advice from you because you're easy to talk to and understand what it takes to build a car, not just going out and buying one. So thanks alot, I have taken it all in, and will use it to make my car faster next year. I went from 12.3's on motor and 11.6's on the nitrous my first year, to 10.8's and a best of 10.5 @ 129 my second year, with no nitrous. So I've made some forward progress, just wanna make more. It's a vicious cycle..haha...

 

I have a certified 25.5 chasis third gen, you just need to find someone to come take the pics... My camera hasn't been cooperatig with me lately

 

I would, but I'm from western Pennsylvania, and that's a drive..haha..how'd you run the bars in your floor? Underneath, through it, inside??

 

have you looked at my videos posted in drag racing under hows your 60 ft? are you shure you want to listen to me lol.

 

Yeah I seen them...I'm takin' advice from anyone that has a fast car...just cause you hit the rear bumper don't mean that you don't know what you're doing...it tells me that you've got something to work out like I do...just on the extreme opposite end of the spectrum...haha...


I always listen to people that are smarter than me...and from what you've posted, you seem to know your crap...so I'll take it in, apply some of it, and see what works and what doesn't...what works for you isn't gonna work for me, but some things may if adapted, and used correctly, right? It's a good starting point if nothing else, more options, more chances of success...that's the way I see it...

 

right, also ask yourself, self, does this fit in my budget, and if i do it wrong will it cost me more later. sometimes haste is a bad thing and you wind up doing something the cheepest way possible , and it costs alot to fix it right. for example the transmission, the 400 is a good idea for the direction you are going to go, yeah up front its more, but the way you are going through 350's you will probably save money.
not everything works on all cars, but one thing does that gets left behind, safety. DO NOT forget to consider the safety rules for the speed you will go, not just where you are, it would be alot easier to say put a safety shield on the trans when you put it in then have to add one after flunking tech. plus with a turbo 400 in second gear one drum is spinning backwards at 80 percent of engine rpm, not to mention the parts that turn with the engine, thats alot of metal i would like to keep seperate from me. I do realize that some shields are over 300 bucks, but what is the going price for a foot or leg? i am concerned about all the bell housings you are breaking, thats not good. the number one cause for bellhousing breakeage is misalignment, and that isnt just at rest, it is dynamic the case is just supposed to hold its guts, not support the car, something is going on there that isnt right. fix it.

 

that is being addressed this weekend actually. the th350 is on its way out, the motor mounts are going to be switched to solids, the plate is coming off the front of the motor, and a midplate is being researched....i have a csi shield on the th350 and will have one on the th400...the driveshaft is going to be balanced again before being sold or handed down to my younger brother....i will have a new drive shaft made, pinion angle is being checked again whether i do a backhalf or not, and the bars are being added to the roll cage, back half or not...the car will be safe again, as it was before, and the alignment issue, or vibration issue will be resolved once and for all...i am determined to get this thing right.
----------
I have every safety piece mandatory for the speeds i'm going, and then some...i have an extinguisher, sfi helmet, cage, ds loop, trans shield, bellhousing shield, e brake still works, 5 pt belts getting shipped to get recertified this weekend too...so the car is safe, i just want it to be safer and quicker...

 

good job, i have the csr shield, what a pain to put in, but i dont think there is anything that will work well to cover the bellhousing, so short of getting an sfi bell, thats it. a mid plate will make a big diffrence.
I will be adding some bars to my cage too, i need to brace some things and add the diagonals on the main hoop, i was misinformed about what was acceptable, so after clarifying that i will add them, also the car is going faster than when i built it (last winter, previosly ran 11.0's all day on engine, low 10's on the bottle) it used to have just a roll bar (erw junk 1 3/4 120 wall boat anchor) put in a full cage (chrome-moly) to replace it, the cage weighs less than the roll bar it had. ran a 9.99 in the spring, down to 9.41, and should have gone faster, it was on track to run 9.04 or so. once i get the wheelys under control (ie lower) it will pick up more, and i also need to add the parachute mount, so in the spring when it runs 150 + i can put the chute on it. i guess i will need to stop at mid 8's but if i can do that on a small block im happy
hey by the way, snap some pics if you can

 

I can snap some pictures along the way if I remember...usually I'm cruising through stuff and when I'm done I think "maybe I shoulda taken some pics"...haha...I wish that I had some pics of the beast when I got it from the junkyard, full of mud and mold....but solid as a rock...

Being that you have a moly cage, I'm assuming that you've done some tig welding? What's a good tig welder to start off with. We have a 135 Lincoln mig that works okay, but last year I was looking for a welder in the off season and ran short on cash to get one...I was looking at some Millers down here by school, they seemed to be reasonable in price. Any words of wisdom in that area? Anything to definitely avoid. I need something that is user friendly and is good quality, like most folks would want.

 

thats a very broad question, and what you need to look at is what you want to do, for welding steel, a lower cost dc welder will be ok, but if you want to weld aluminum depending on the thickness and whatnot you can need alot of amps and most households wont support that, like at work a coworker owns the tig, and it pulls 80 amps @ 200 amp ac output, not reccommended for the standard house wiring if you know what i mean. on .083 wall tubing for example i usually use about 65 amps output, so most small dc only tigs will do that, things you would want to look for are high frequency start, this is easier to use than touch starting, also you want the ability to have variable output while welding at times, so either a foot pedal, or finger slide\roller are good features, really all the small tigs that i know of are 220 volt supply (atleast good ones) if you have a welding supply store near home or school see if they have intro classes, that will give you first hand knowladge and experiance , not saying they can teach you to weld perfect quick, nobody can. but using somebody elses equipment to see what you like or dislike is good and someone to show you in front of you is alot easier than reading it online, and the last bit of advice on tig welding, get good gloves, tig gloves not just garden leather gloves. it will make a big diffrence. i would say save the tig for the next project, and continue with mild steel on the current project, but while doing that, anytime you notch a joint, try to make it as close to airtight as you can, tig welds arent good for filling gaps, so work on that first when you get all your fitups really close every time then consider a tig, for referance get a piece of 1\16 wire, and notch something if the wire fits in the groove, its too loose fix it, thats the size rod you would use on the cage for cromo and the gap should be less then the welding rod also this proper fitting of joints will give you less twist and movement even with mild steel. hope that helps, even though i just told you not to get one lol. most of what i see you doing from this point on that car can be mig welded no problem, as long as all the surface prep is good, by the way that is also more critical with tig welding.
and as far as pics of the build, these pics i just took last week are the first ones i took, after i am basically done. next build i will take more pics along the way, but that will be a real race car, just not quite shure what yet, but i am telling you it will be faster than this camaro i got now, thats a pretty tall order too lol

 

I'm not in a hurry to get a tig welder, or I would've gotten one last year when I was looking. This car is going to stay mild steel and be relatively heavy compared to a moly chassis with an aluminum floor. I just want to get one before I'm ready to build a nicer moly chassis so that I can practice up on some other stuff. Everything on my car has been mig welded, and it will stay that way until I'm ready to upgrade. Not sure when that'll be though, I'm leary of chromoly to be honest. It seems that welding chromoly is more of an art than a science with all the heat treating rumors and stuff. I'm not going to jump into that project before I get all the facts, because I know that my mild steel cage is sufficient and safe for what I'm doing with it.

Last year with the sbc I weighed 2830 on the scales at Norwalk with a full tank of gas and a nitrous bottle, 2970 with me in it. Not sure what it weighs this year, but I do know that I did nothing but add weight. I'd like to get back down into the 2800lb range, cause I have a feeling I'm somewhere near 3200 race weight. That's going to be the most difficult task at hand. Removing unnecessary stuff and staying safe. I'll see what I can do though. Well, I got 4 classes, then home for the weekend to work on it some. Gonna get the trans out, the fuel cell out, battery out, seat belts shipped to rci, and we'll go from there. It's going to be a long winter probably, so I've got plenty of time to think here. I will need to send my axles back to moser at some point to get narrowed for my other rearend. I don't read the internet when at home, so if you post anything I won't see it until monday night probably. But I'll catch back up. Thanks for all the great information. Talk to you next week.

 

car fixer what does your car weight with you in it?? thanks

 

3250 in the staging lanes ready to sky the fronts lol, yeah a little heavy, but its not that slow, i was thinking of taking the rear bumper brace out, but i think i need to leave it in for awhile. and yes i did narrow the headers again, but it went 5.78 in the 1/8 so i dont think it noticed.
yes tig welding in general is more like art, try gas welding, it is very similar, except torch operation ofcourse. like i said look for classes before buying.
I wouldnt be concerned about weight as much as stiffness, you want the suspension to do the work not chassis flex.

 

Well got everything that I had planned done this weekend. Turns out I broke my 3rd bellhousing. After some serious thought and observation, I got to pulling the fuel cell out later that day still scratching my head...and as I looked up the tunnel of the car from the rear I think I found some more problems. MY TORQUE ARM HAS A CURVE IN IT TOWARDS THE DRIVERS FLOORBOARD...that's definitely not helping my situation I don't think, so that is history for sure...definitely going with my narrowed rear and ladder bars, with a backhalf, and maybe a 25.4 spec with an aluminum floor. Still thinkin' about that though...

 

bent torque arm isnt good lol, what kind was it?

 

My parents have a shop, and they flame cuts steel plate, 1/4" to 8" with cnc machines...we made it out of 1/2" or 5/8" I believe...design flaw...but going with ladder bars, so it'll be okay next season...

 

ah, i see yeah flat plate doesnt have much for strength laterally, so i can see why it bent, thats why the stock one was c shaped and what not gives it more strength, but why ladder bars? i realize they are easier to put in but, if you are going to backhalf it....the adjustability of a 4 link would be preferred. also lifting and pushing on two little hiem ends..make shure you have the safety straps on there (not legal not to anyway)

 

Dad's car is a ladder bar car, 60 fts 1.25 with the foot brake...which is as good as I need to go...I already have a rearend that is setup for ladder bars, or else I would do a 4 link....I got a really nice rearend housing that is all done up for ladder bars, coil overs, wheelie bar, and has the back brace ,and the stiffening bar on the bottom, with a filler and drain in it...if the brackets weren't already fabbed up and welded so beautifully on it, I would do the 4 link....and we run alot of tracks...I mean about a dozen different ones through the summer, and I don't wanna have to adjust a 4 link for them...the ladder bar is cheaper for me to do right now, and easier for me to adjust, cause we already have a car setup like that now...

 

ok i have to say that would sway my decision also having all that stuff, and they do work , but you are stuck with one i\c and can only change the anti squat % but hey if you got 1\2 the parts i cant argue that fact, plus being familiar with them is a plus. and alot of times adjusting a 4 link once it is right is just fine tuning if at all. incidently torque arms are irritateing me lately and i am half tempted to 4 link my ride, maybe i should mesure where i need that cross member lol

 

I measured for my cross member this weekend, and it turns out that my axle centerline is 28" from my main hoop on my cage, which is going to make for some short ladder bars...the rearend that I have has ladder bar mounts on the front, with 2 holes that are perfectly vertical relative to the axle housing...I can change that bracket, I just didn't want to...I'm still uncertain as to what I want to do. We got to looking at the cars this weekend and pondered doing a 25.4 spec with an aluminum floor. I know that the stock floor acts as a shear plate and is really strong in side impacts, but with that spec there are enough bars in the floor to counter this. And it would save alot of weight over the 25.5 spec...well it wouldn't save me much weight, but the all aluminum floor (except under me) would allow me to add the extra tubing without gaining much weight...it'd be alot easier to fab up a 25.4 with the floor all the way out too...I'll know here by the end of the week what I'm doing, cause I'm gonna start and order parts so that I can start on this thing before it really starts snowing up here....I may have to break down and trim the ladder bar mounts off of my rearend and apply the 4 link mounts so that I can run that setup...but I'm not certain...both have their benefits, and both have their downfalls...I've been looking at both of them since June, and still haven't decided....haha...I'd be better off flipping a coin...

I think I've figured it out...if I do the 25.4 or 25.5, I'm going to do the 4 link...if I just backhalf the car, I'm going to stick with the ladder bar...that will suffice...if the car will cert to 7.50 then the 4 link may be beneficial someday...but if not, then ladder bars will do every bit of 8.50 and then some as my car is setup now...if dad can go 8.12 with short ladder bars and a foot brake, then my car will be fine with a similiar setup....but if I do the 7.50 cert, it'll be done right for those speeds...does that sound like a logical plan?

 

man those are short ladder bars, unless you have alot of power that short bar wont be easy to hook up ( i am guessing that the budget isnt going to allow both the chassis and engine improvements) so personally i would say 4 link, plus the length is about right (unless you want to run 33 inch tall tires)
if the classes you run at the local tracks allow firewall back i say cut the floor out, it will be easier and cleaner to do that way, just make shure you have the specs in hand before cutting, if that spec is no longer certifiable as a new build (i do not know what the rules are for that) it would suck to find out when you are done. they updated it for a reason so i would find out about that too, chances are you would be better off 25.5, 8.50 wont be good enough lol. as far as i know there isnt a too safe car, well i guess one that doesnt run..it seems like a logical plan, and i can understand just backhalfing this one and later after school getting a diffrent car, as they say if you want to build a cheap racecar buy someone elses. when you are ready it might be better to buy a turnkey car that goes straight as an arrow and runs the number you want

 

There's no fun in buying a used racecar for me. Half the fun is building the thing and getting to know it. I hate the first time that you drive a new car that you're not familiar with. It's nice to know every part on your car and how they all work together, and what the weak points are. I don't ever see myself buying a used racecar. It's really hard to run a lengthy ladder bar on these cars because the main hoop is so close to the center of the axle. That's why I'm considering the 25.4 with an aluminum floor and a 4 link. It would all work together very nicely. I just need to make up my mind and start ordering parts and get the specs to that I can start on this thing here soon. I got 6 days off for thanksgiving and 3 weeks off for christmas this year for some reason, so I'd like to get all the cage done by then. I'm more worried about the chassis right now, than power. I may switch to a n/a camshaft. I have a custom grind nitrous mechanical roller that is way too big for my motor n/a. So I may set it up to run n/a more until I get the money to go with more power. I'm running a gm performance block, gm steel crank, gm aluminum 077 snowflake heads, trw pistons, and manley h beam rods...The motor is winding to about 7200 through the traps, I'd like to switch heads and cam, but I don't have the money...it's either power or chassis this year, not both, and I choose chassis....

 

fix the chassis and use the power better, usually nitrous grinds are pretty tame n/a andis the gear ratio in the new rear the same?, and when shopping go right past the comp engineering cheap stuff, if you do a 4 link you might as well have it adjustable the cheaper 4 link kits are kinda weak and dont really have enough holes for fine tuning, and if you need to dont feel bad about taking the top hole out of the brackets to get it to the right hight, someone else on here put the front brackets too low and wonders why his car doesnt work right, if you have a chance go to a book store and look at the books on chassis engineering and see how a 4 link should be installed. also see if the kit has rod ends and all the hardware, some do some dont and that would be a surprise. also measure several times before cutting and before final welding its really hard to cut the crossmember out to fix it

 

I have 2 chassis books and have read all the ups and downs of both systems. My fear with a 4 link is that I don't want to take all summer to have to work it out. What is a good, affordable 4 link? I have noticed that most do not come with rod ends, which sets you back almost 60 bucks on top of the cost of the 4 link. The rearend that I'm using is just a housing, I'm using my center section and narrowing my axles. It has really nice brackets welded on to it and braced 2 times. I hate to cut it up and change it around. It is set up for a ladder bar rear, coil overs, and a wheelie bar. The holes are vertical when looking at it from the side, which poses another problem. Alot of the ladder bar kits do not mount with the top hole directly above the bottom hole. Any suggestions on a good ladder bar, or good four link setup. I'm stuck here until I figure out what I wanna do. If I had 33 inches of room in there I'd just do the ladder bar, but I'm 5" short in that category, so I'm contemplating. I wish that this was easier. I would like a 4 link, but hate to hack this rearend housing all up. This thing is a nice piece. Think it's possible to make a set of ladder bars that would hold up? If I made a little jig to weld them, do you think that I could make 2 identical to each other? Or is this something that I should not even consider? I have all kinds of crazy ideas, probably shouldn't use all of them...

 

refer to the chassis books about the ladder bar construction, i wouldnt make them out of mild steel for shure , as far as 4 link brackets and such go, look for ones that have more holes especially on top, that means the changes will be closer together, the lowers arent as important, as the power goes up move the lower bar up. about cutting the rear, have you looked into maybe selling that one and getting a diffrent one? just an idea. that is a tough decision to whack all that good stuff off (well not all but you know) what about using the housing thats in the car? and by 33 inches i was refering to tire size, and in particular the wheel tub required to get around them, it would also be known as your seat after putting it in lol as for tuning it, when you build it put in an anti roll bar, so you dont have to worry about preloading the top right bar, and then its just basically instant center adjustments, you could get technical and mesure the cg when done, and set it according to that, and it will probably wind up pretty close, or just use the balance on the jack stands method, not as accurate but it will get you in the ball park, if you put the 4 link in right changeing bar locations will not change pinion angle, and one you have the car hooking on most tracks it will be really close depending on the prep, you can then make other changes to fine tune, like spring preload front struts extension limiters if you have them and if you have adjustable rear shocks (you will need them later but can get by with cheeper ones now although atleast single adjustables would be good double would be best) look at edquay.com they have lots of stuff for third gens

 

I can't find a four link kit from moly that is assembled. Which means I'd have to take the rods somewhere to have the ends tig welded. I think that this project is gonna leave me broke, haha. So many options and so many variables. I need to get some stuff ordered and to the house...haha...I'm tired of being stuck at school. I wanna get this thing done.

 

Don, get ahold of me if you need em Tiged. I can have my buddy Doug do them over this way. You seen his shop when you picked up all the Camaro parts from me at H&R on RT7. ( Intense Fab.)

 

Well, 25.4 and ladder bars it is...final decision...

 

ok and i wish you the best of luck with the project, happy uh halfing?

 

I'll try and remember to take some pictures along the way...usually get working and forget though...now I just gotta start ordering stuff so that it comes in time to get started on this thing. The snow started to fly today in western PA, which really sucks...Gonna be a long winter, may as well use it to make the car better for next year...

Car_fixer, what's on your agenda for next season? Any major changes, or just minor upgrades?

 

that depends on how it works at the track next time, possibly the 18th thats pretty much it for this year around here south of atlanta ga. by the way.
if i can keep contact with the earth i might just add the bars i need to be legal, and install a chute (needed that for awhile). might build another car, since i know a few people that want to build somthing, one changes his mind every other minute on what he wants to build though, first was (this is a cool idea...crazy as hell but cool) a fourwheeler since a few guys run them at friday night drags, but this wasnt like a normal fourwheeler, he got a yamaha R1 engine off ebay, and well just round it up to 200 hp, we were going to build a streched chassis kinda like a sand drag atv but light as hell (all 4130) low , long, and fast, and the idea of nitrous was mentioned also. Then he read about jr comp dragsters, like a jr dragster with a motorcycle engine, wich i thought was cool but not as fun as the first, then he wanted to turbo his 01 mustang, boring everybody does that, then this was another cool one, a s10 extended cab long bed 25.2 type build, firewall back 33 inch tall tires, huge engine setback, set it up so the driver is agaist the back window, the funny car cage would be about even with the door opening, all kinds of engines got tossed around for this, sb,bb and my favorite lsx, turbos, yes plurel turbos were brought up , but i think he is back on the mustang at the moment.....and another guy sold his t-top 3rd gen and wants a real race car also, dont know what yet. i tried to talk the guy with the r1 engine into building a jr funny car, he did think it was a cool idea. so i dont know yet, but since i work on cars all day long you would think i dont want to un less i have to , what can i say i am crazy lol

 

Unfortunately I woke up this morning, and there's freakin' snow on the ground here in Johnstown. What a bummer. I like the 4 wheeler idea, although I'd probably never strap myself to it cause some of those guys are freaking nuts. Nothing like going down the track with a nitrous bottle point at your rearend and 200hp between your legs. I'm not a big mustang fan, I like some of the notches from the late 80's early 90's, so I'd build the S10. I was going to build one when I started out with my car, but I couldn't afford the newer body style like my daily driver zr2, and thought the old ones were too boxy, although cool when done right. I'm in the process of getting some parts together for when I'm home next in two weeks. That way I'll have something to do. And I have to put a steel plate under the car before I pull the old rearend out and send my axles back to mosier to get shortened and resplined. It's gonna be a long winter up here, so we got some time to toss ideas around and continue with the build. Dont' know exactly where it'll lead, just know that it'll be faster than this year, and safer.

 

i probably over engineered the 4 wheeler , but it would be closer to like a pro stock bike with 4 wheels then a fourwheeler lol. and it would have wheely bars, and i dont think i would do anything other than 1/8th mile with it, it would probably get tossed first time it ran though. s10 bodies that fit the bill are hiding now for some reason.

 

that was my problem 2 yrs ago...whenever i was looking for one there were none around, then when i got the camaro, it was like BAM...s10s everywhere...oh well, good luck with whatever you decide to do...i'm sure it'll be fun no matter what...keep us updated!!

 

here are a few links to a car I did a few years ago. It was certified 25.5 now we are updating it to 25.2 for a 10.5 tire outlaw class here in Texas...

http://www.kwikkarauto.com/Services/index.html

click The "88 IROC Camaro project."

and the new updates...

http://www.americanracecomponents.com/Intheshop.html