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custom v6 intake manifold

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Old 11-29-2006 | 05:58 PM
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custom v6 intake manifold

well i figured id share this
since i swaped to fwd heads on the engine i had to use a fwd manifold.
now the only problem is the fwd manifolds wont clear a distibutor.
i was able to machine the back of the manifold for dizzy clearance but i didnt stop there,im on my way to machining out the whole middle of the manifold to build a custom sheet metal design.
started with this

and so far ended up with this









still lots of material to remove before im ready to start fabing runners and such.ill post more pics as progress continues
Old 12-15-2006 | 06:55 PM
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finally had some free tiem to work on this a lil more,ill be finished witht the milling away of the storck runners and the rest of the manifold this weekend.and then i start to build the runners and plenum





Last edited by daves12secV6; 01-04-2007 at 11:45 PM.
Old 12-16-2006 | 05:47 AM
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Car: 1987 TA
Engine: 350 stock/twecked
Transmission: 700r4
Looking good-that seems like it is taking a lot of time to do it the right way-i know this is just an opion, but would it be easier to just fab the complet manifold? Also do those frount weel drive heads flow better, or what benifit do they offer? I am asking as i have a v-6 project to do also
Old 12-18-2006 | 03:12 PM
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no its actually easier to machine a stock manifold down liek i am doing in my case,since i run a turbo charged engine i want a very short runner(about 4 inch long).it is possible to machine an entirely new manifold,but its very hard to do since the port and pushrod layout.the pushrods actually come threw the intake.not to mention the intake is also part of the cyl head/valve cover rail.
the aluminum head are a canted valve design,and flow 60+ cfm better then the iron heads,using the aluminum heads requires u use a fwd pistion,the fwd heads have a 25cc chamber.the iron heads have a 50cc chamber, using rwd pistions with a fwd head will get u a 14.3-1 compression ratio
Old 12-19-2006 | 01:06 PM
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wow, looking good. can't wait to see what the finished product looks like.
Old 12-25-2006 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick King
Looking good-that seems like it is taking a lot of time to do it the right way-i know this is just an opion, but would it be easier to just fab the complet manifold? Also do those frount weel drive heads flow better, or what benifit do they offer? I am asking as i have a v-6 project to do also
this may actually give u a better idea of why its easier to machine a stock manifold to work







the pushrods would actually come up threw the plates,u can sorta see were i scribed the lines out for them.
also u would have to clearnce out the top portion for the guide plates and rocker arms,i found a simpler way of doing it but stoped working on the plates once i started to machine away the stock manifold to use.
next time i goto work ill dig out the plates that i machined for the pushrods and guideplates/rockers and take some pics with them installed.

besides all of the above when welding it all together there would be some issues with it warping and possibly not sealing up correctly,which is greatly reduced using the stock manifold base and machining it the way i am doing

Last edited by daves12secV6; 12-25-2006 at 02:09 PM.
Old 12-25-2006 | 07:02 PM
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Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
looks like a nifty new idea, i'm pretty interested. keep us updated on the progress.
Old 12-30-2006 | 03:28 PM
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What kind of a mill/equipment do you have access to? Not a bad job… looks like some of the stuff that I’ve done with a router and a lot of perseverance….
Old 12-30-2006 | 04:33 PM
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----------
Originally Posted by daves12secV6
no its actually easier to machine a stock manifold down liek i am doing in my case,since i run a turbo charged engine i want a very short runner(about 4 inch long).it is possible to machine an entirely new manifold,but its very hard to do since the port and pushrod layout.the pushrods actually come threw the intake.not to mention the intake is also part of the cyl head/valve cover rail.
the aluminum head are a canted valve design,and flow 60+ cfm better then the iron heads,using the aluminum heads requires u use a fwd pistion,the fwd heads have a 25cc chamber.the iron heads have a 50cc chamber, using rwd pistions with a fwd head will get u a 14.3-1 compression ratio
I am a huge "no replacement for displacement" kind of guy however, I like your attitude towards the V6's. If you intend to use the aluminum heads and RWD pistons and you have a compression ratio of 14.3:1 Then on your turbo charged application it seems you will not be able to increase your PSI by very much. I would guess no more than 5? Unless of course you ran some race gas of some sort.

So what is your plan to tackle your high compression turbo charged motor?

My guess would be to give your heads a bowl job and raise the cc's some more so you can run some more PSI on those bad boys. or get some Dead soft copper sheets that are pretty thick and trace and cut your own head gaskets. Or a combo of the two. I would not trust just any head gasket on this project.

I am guessing you want to use the RWD pistons... what comp ratio you working with with those?
I am interested in what you have going on.

Last edited by nelapse; 12-30-2006 at 04:36 PM.
Old 12-30-2006 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 83 Crossfire TA
What kind of a mill/equipment do you have access to? Not a bad job… looks like some of the stuff that I’ve done with a router and a lot of perseverance….
i work in a family owned racecar/fabrication/machine shop,so i have access to any machine/tools that u would normally find in such a shop.
Originally Posted by nelapse
----------


I am a huge "no replacement for displacement" kind of guy however, I like your attitude towards the V6's. If you intend to use the aluminum heads and RWD pistons and you have a compression ratio of 14.3:1 Then on your turbo charged application it seems you will not be able to increase your PSI by very much. I would guess no more than 5? Unless of course you ran some race gas of some sort.

So what is your plan to tackle your high compression turbo charged motor?

My guess would be to give your heads a bowl job and raise the cc's some more so you can run some more PSI on those bad boys. or get some Dead soft copper sheets that are pretty thick and trace and cut your own head gaskets. Or a combo of the two. I would not trust just any head gasket on this project.

I am guessing you want to use the RWD pistons... what comp ratio you working with with those?
I am interested in what you have going on.
im using custom fwd spec pistons(forged),the motor has an 8.8-1 cr.only reason i went custom is so i could get forged,only cast and hyper pistions are off the shelf items
Old 12-30-2006 | 08:02 PM
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Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
and what is your projected psi with that setup?
Old 01-01-2007 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nelapse
and what is your projected psi with that setup?
im unsure right now,only cause i dont know how much power it will make per said boost level,this new motor should make the same numbers my other motor does at a lower boost level.but just do give u an idea i ran 18+psi on my old motor,though i saw lil gain over 18 psi,due to the turbo pretty much being maxed out at 18 psi so efficancy droped pretty fast above that.
this motor is getting twin T04E's instead of the single T04E i used to run.

btw ill have more pics tonight,i finished maching the manifold and have started to fab/weld on the new runners,so ill bring the manifold home with me and take some pics and post them up
Old 01-01-2007 | 04:11 PM
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twin turbo would be a much more efficient way to go. The beauty of twin turbos is that you can reduce turbo lag greatly by having two different size turbos that spool different at certain rpms. Thus, creating constant and quick boost when your engine demands it. If you have the dollar, some single snail turbos are more efficient than any twin setup, but the price is a bit out rageous.
Old 01-01-2007 | 06:16 PM
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and it starts to take some shape







Last edited by daves12secV6; 01-02-2007 at 07:33 PM.
Old 01-01-2007 | 06:28 PM
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Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
lookin pretty good so far
Old 01-01-2007 | 08:29 PM
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Car: 1982 Z28 & 1967 RR/SS 396
Engine: ZZ383 & 375hp 396
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Axle/Gears: 9" ford & 12 bolt 4.10
Looks very good so far.

In the picture showing the big gap, are you planning on just welding up the gap and grinding it down? I know it is not a big dral as aluminum is so easy to work with. Was just curious.
Old 01-02-2007 | 05:55 PM
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Yea, I think that we’re all a little confused as to where this is ultimately going… I’m assuming that the injectors will still be underneath it, but I’m not sure that I’m seeing where the plenum is going.

Honestly, for boost I’m surprised that you’re creating runners at all.
Old 01-02-2007 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Yea, I think that we’re all a little confused as to where this is ultimately going… I’m assuming that the injectors will still be underneath it, but I’m not sure that I’m seeing where the plenum is going.

Honestly, for boost I’m surprised that you’re creating runners at all.
i was shooting for a 4 inch runner,but that would mean moving the injector location.in the last pic i can see the shape of the runner,i didnt get a chance to weld on the other 2 walls of the runner before i took the pics.

if this wasnt a street car the runners would have been alot shorter,but i still need some sort of power down low,so i had to make a few comprimises.what u see is just the runner,ontop of all that i will put a small to mid size plenum.
i shoudl be able to get some more pics up tommorow with some finished runners

btw were u see that gap.it is just that,the runners dont go all the way out to the sides of the manifold,once i get new pics up u will be able to understand it a lil better
Old 02-22-2007 | 11:51 AM
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update ive been slow working on this but heres a lil more work done,u can see the runners starting to take shape







Old 02-22-2007 | 09:16 PM
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What is your plan for a plenum?
Old 02-22-2007 | 09:29 PM
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im just gonna put a mid sized box plenum ontop of it
Old 02-22-2007 | 10:06 PM
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What about the TB. You should fab up a twin 58 mm on it. Trace out a TB gasket and you are set.
Old 02-22-2007 | 10:07 PM
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im going with a larger single prolly a 80 or 90 mm ford style

Last edited by daves12secV6; 02-22-2007 at 10:11 PM.
Old 02-22-2007 | 10:24 PM
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Hmm, what are you planning to do about the TPS and IAC? With TPI TB I can see how you would modify it but not with ford style.
Old 02-22-2007 | 11:13 PM
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im not using the factory ecm/harness,im going with megasquirt so the tps/iac isnt an issue for me
Old 02-23-2007 | 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by nelapse
Hmm, what are you planning to do about the TPS and IAC? With TPI TB I can see how you would modify it but not with ford style.
TPS is usually just a question of putting the right plug on the harness and getting the pinout right to get the thing to plug in.

IAC… well most GM TB’s use bolt on IAC housings, so it’s easy enough to drill 2 holes in a plate and then bolt on the housing/assembly and run a “external” IAC. Or if you’re a lazy monkey with 4 left thumbs there’s a few companies that sell external IAC housings specifically for running ford TB’s with GM style or aftermarket ecms.
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