welding exhaust tubing, need help
#1
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Car: 87 camaro, '02 cbr600f4i, 70 mustang
Engine: 2.8/600c.c/ 351C
Transmission: Manual/Manual/Slap stick
welding exhaust tubing, need help
i only have access to a stick welder and i need to weld in a O2 bung, any idea on amps and voltage so i don't burn a hole in the headers. i also need to fill in part around the bung cause it doesn't quite fit the curvature of the pipe.
i am a beginner at welding, so any help would be appreciated.
also there are no welding shops in the area that can or will do it for me..... that idea got blown out of the water prety quickly.....
so really i am stuck doing it with a stick welder, though i know a mig would be better for this operation, or is it tig... the one with argon shielding gas and no wire feed.....
i am a beginner at welding, so any help would be appreciated.
also there are no welding shops in the area that can or will do it for me..... that idea got blown out of the water prety quickly.....
so really i am stuck doing it with a stick welder, though i know a mig would be better for this operation, or is it tig... the one with argon shielding gas and no wire feed.....
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
yea, you're thinking TIG, with the no wire feed.. MIG I think would work fine, but stick will be a challenge, as it's not so great at filling in holes....
I'd practice on some spare pipe if you have some lying around...
What welder is it? What are your choices? like a good 240V welder with a continuously variable dial, or just a few clicks to choose from?
With my junky little "fisher price" welder (no, this time i'm not talking about a soldering iron), i'd use 70A, (no voltage selection), and a 5/64" stick, or 3/32", E6013.
I'd practice on some spare pipe if you have some lying around...
What welder is it? What are your choices? like a good 240V welder with a continuously variable dial, or just a few clicks to choose from?
With my junky little "fisher price" welder (no, this time i'm not talking about a soldering iron), i'd use 70A, (no voltage selection), and a 5/64" stick, or 3/32", E6013.
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Car: 87 camaro, '02 cbr600f4i, 70 mustang
Engine: 2.8/600c.c/ 351C
Transmission: Manual/Manual/Slap stick
i dunno which welder it is, i do know that it is generator powered and yea it has alot of settings. i was told like 50 amps or so with a standard rod. it is at the auto hoby shop on base here in jacksonville....
#5
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grind the bung to fit the pipe. i'd use e6013 and weld mostly on the bung since it'll carry the heat better, e7018 would be about the worse choice for a electrode you could make. after it's welded in place drill the hole in the pipe.
edit: now that i think about it you'd end up with a much nicer job thaking it someplace that can mig it for you and the cost would be low.
edit: now that i think about it you'd end up with a much nicer job thaking it someplace that can mig it for you and the cost would be low.
Last edited by ede; 09-10-2005 at 10:07 PM.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I don't know much about stick welding, i'm still learning, but is there any reason why 7018 would be bad? You usually can get away with *lower* amperage with a 7018 stick right?
I think a 3/32" would be pretty thick to use on 50A, it's probably be very hard to keep an arc going... (I sure can't... I only have the choice of 50/70A, and 50A is just too low, I can't keep an arc going, but on the box of my welder it specifically recommends 70A for exhaust...)
It's not exactly structural, so as long as it's sealed, if you don't have amazing penetration then it's not the end of the world...
I think a 3/32" would be pretty thick to use on 50A, it's probably be very hard to keep an arc going... (I sure can't... I only have the choice of 50/70A, and 50A is just too low, I can't keep an arc going, but on the box of my welder it specifically recommends 70A for exhaust...)
It's not exactly structural, so as long as it's sealed, if you don't have amazing penetration then it's not the end of the world...
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#8
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E7018 is the highest or near the highest heat input electrode as well as near the top with slow freeze properties therefor about the poorest choice you could make. it's designed for high strength low alloy metals, not for thin metal poor fit up applications. low amp electrodes would be e6010, 6011, 6012, 6013, not 100% sure but i'm thinking 6010 is the fastest freeze. all your LH electrode would be high input slow freeze.
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Car: 89 jaguar xjs convertable
Engine: 89 L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 dana 44
I use a 6013 (easiest to restart) @ 70-90 amps. Make sure your bung fits tightly in your hole. Any gaps are going to cause you burn through problems. Defenately not the best choice of welder types for the job but defenately doable. I've been building exhausts for 15 years and only got a mig 4 years ago. Up till then it was all stick!
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Car: Maybach
Engine: KA24DE-T
Transmission: M5
Originally posted by Rob Wade
...Make sure your bung fits tightly in your hole....
...Make sure your bung fits tightly in your hole....
Aww come on... Someone had to do it!
If I didn't someone else would have!
I mean, I couldn't resist!
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Car: 87 Berlinetta,work in progress
Engine: 468 BB,still in the build process
Transmission: TH350,3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 9" Ford,learning how to live under
Originally posted by Rob Wade
I use a 6013 (easiest to restart) @ 70-90 amps. Make sure your bung fits tightly in your hole. Any gaps are going to cause you burn through problems. Defenately not the best choice of welder types for the job but defenately doable. I've been building exhausts for 15 years and only got a mig 4 years ago. Up till then it was all stick!
I use a 6013 (easiest to restart) @ 70-90 amps. Make sure your bung fits tightly in your hole. Any gaps are going to cause you burn through problems. Defenately not the best choice of welder types for the job but defenately doable. I've been building exhausts for 15 years and only got a mig 4 years ago. Up till then it was all stick!
#12
if you don't actually know how to stick weld, then this will end badly. How about brazing or silver solder with a map torch??
do you have oxyacetylene?? you could use that with little experience to make a decent weld.
do you have oxyacetylene?? you could use that with little experience to make a decent weld.
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Car: 89 jaguar xjs convertable
Engine: 89 L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 dana 44
Originally posted by Irockz
What muffler shop do you work in?Just wanted to be sure and avoid that one!
What muffler shop do you work in?Just wanted to be sure and avoid that one!
Actually any hack can run a mig! Try doing a butweld with a stick welder and not grinding 3/4 of it back off. A stick welder will show the difference between someone who can weld and someone who produces a lot of bubblegum! In certain situations I'll still use my stick welder over the mig.
#14
Are you sure there are no welders in your area that do not TIG. Look in the yellow pages or something. That is a 10 min. job with a TIG and that would include the proper fit-up.
T.J.
www.tjsperformance.com
T.J.
www.tjsperformance.com
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Car: 86 IROC-Z, 82 z28
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Torsen, 4.56 Auburn
Re: welding exhaust tubing, need help
I use a 6013 (easiest to restart) @ 70-90 amps. Make sure your bung fits tightly in your hole. Any gaps are going to cause you burn through problems. Defenately not the best choice of welder types for the job but defenately doable. I've been building exhausts for 15 years and only got a mig 4 years ago. Up till then it was all stick!
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