Custom 90-92 Camaro Guage Holder for in Dash Autometer Guages
#1
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From: Pinehurst, NC, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro
Engine: 350 miniram
Transmission: T-56
Custom 90-92 Camaro Guage Holder for in Dash Autometer Guages
I decided to scrap the factory guage setup and use all Autometer guages instead. What I would like to do is mount a 5" speedo on the left, a 5" tach on the right, and in the middle if it would fit TWO 2 1/16" guages inbetween. If not I would probably just go with ONE bigger 2 5/8" guage. The other guages I would mount on the a-pilar.
I would love it to bolt right into the factory location and and look as stock as possible except for the Autometer guages. So has anybody done this on the 90-92 Camaros? I don't think I have the tools to try and make something myself, but would certainly give it a try. Also I would be happy to pay to have this made as well. Maybe if enough people would be interested it would be worth someones time to design this.
Any input would be appreciated.
I would love it to bolt right into the factory location and and look as stock as possible except for the Autometer guages. So has anybody done this on the 90-92 Camaros? I don't think I have the tools to try and make something myself, but would certainly give it a try. Also I would be happy to pay to have this made as well. Maybe if enough people would be interested it would be worth someones time to design this.
Any input would be appreciated.
#2
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
go to home depot. purchase thin steel or aluminum. draw needed shapes onto a piece of posterboard. transfer them to the steel/aluminum and cut them out. spray paint the steel black and you're done. took me under an hour to complete.
and yes i know mine is an 82-89 style. same principles apply.
and yes i know mine is an 82-89 style. same principles apply.
#3
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From: moore, ok
Car: 86 IROC-Z (daily driver) 87 IROC-Z (under construction)
Engine: 305 H.O.
Transmission: T-56
I did a for ya...... autometer gauges.....and found you a few pics. if you want more, you'll have to do a search. This is TheGreatJ's setup!
Last edited by -ZERO-; 10-21-2004 at 11:57 AM.
#6
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From: Pinehurst, NC, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro
Engine: 350 miniram
Transmission: T-56
Thanks for the pics guys. That looks great in my opinon. I was kinda concerned with making the plate flat since the 90-92 guage cluster is curved.
I think I'm fine with making the actual plate, but how do you mount it up? Do you use the factory mounting places or have to make new ones? A little more detail on that would be very helpful.
Thanks
I think I'm fine with making the actual plate, but how do you mount it up? Do you use the factory mounting places or have to make new ones? A little more detail on that would be very helpful.
Thanks
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#9
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From: Pinehurst, NC, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro
Engine: 350 miniram
Transmission: T-56
I wish I had more fabracating skills so I could make the plate that would bolt up to the factory locations. The pics you showed me are really nice but of a flat panel instead of the curved ones like the factory 90-92 guage cluster and they have a ton more screws holding them in and they aren't in the factory locations. I would really have to see whats going on behind the panel, because I think they made some special brackets or something.
I am going to do the a pillar pod but I think with just 2 guages. I am seeing to many pics of the 3 guage pod where the bottom one hits the dash pad, and mine is perfect so I don't want to mess that up.
I am going to do the a pillar pod but I think with just 2 guages. I am seeing to many pics of the 3 guage pod where the bottom one hits the dash pad, and mine is perfect so I don't want to mess that up.
#10
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From: Pinehurst, NC, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro
Engine: 350 miniram
Transmission: T-56
I took apart my stock guage cluster just now and I think I would like to use the stock guage cluster assembly as my starting point. This is what I'm thinking, tell me if this seems like a good idea or if it wouldn't work right.
The cluster comes apart in 3 pieces.
1. Clear Plastic Lens
2. Black Overlay for the guages
3. White guage cluster housing
I want to take the white piece and gut the entire back of it. This way the shell would have all the factory mounting holes, and I hope has enough room back there to install some 5" guages.
Next I need to replace the factory black overlay with a custom piece of sheet metal made exactly like the factory one, but with holes drilled for the Autometer guages, turn signals, and high beam. It will also have to have the factory mounting holes, that might be a little tricky.
Last, if new sheet metal piece was made just like the factory one, the clear protective cover should bolt right on. Pop the outter trim piece on and it should look pretty close to stock.
So what do you think, would this work? I still would have to figure out how to create the sheet metal piece, but if it would work I will invest the time figuring that out.
thanks
The cluster comes apart in 3 pieces.
1. Clear Plastic Lens
2. Black Overlay for the guages
3. White guage cluster housing
I want to take the white piece and gut the entire back of it. This way the shell would have all the factory mounting holes, and I hope has enough room back there to install some 5" guages.
Next I need to replace the factory black overlay with a custom piece of sheet metal made exactly like the factory one, but with holes drilled for the Autometer guages, turn signals, and high beam. It will also have to have the factory mounting holes, that might be a little tricky.
Last, if new sheet metal piece was made just like the factory one, the clear protective cover should bolt right on. Pop the outter trim piece on and it should look pretty close to stock.
So what do you think, would this work? I still would have to figure out how to create the sheet metal piece, but if it would work I will invest the time figuring that out.
thanks
#11
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
Zero you stole my thunder.
You're right about the oddball mounting of that panel. I couldn't find any other way to mount the Autometers up in my '91 dash, so I pulled the bezel trim (part that surrounds the gauges) off and cut the back of it flat with a dremel. I then made my panel to fit that hole using 3 3/8" tach and speedo and 2 1/16" everything else. Black aerosol bedliner gives a nice texture after 3 or 4 thin coats. The allen-bolts are mostly decorative, although a few of them do actually serve as mounting points. For brackets, I just took a piece of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum bar about 4' long and cut chunks off and bent them with 2 pair of pliers. I drilled holes into the sides of the "pocket" in the dash to bolt the brackets to. It took a little time to get it mounted up right but it looks damn good IMHO.
I think you'll have a REAL tough time making a plate to use the stock housing. For one thing, you'll need extra clearance in the front for the gauge bezels (which means moving the gauges farther back so they won't hit the clear plastic piece,) and for another you'll need lots of room in the back for the gauge housings. I spent 2 weeks trying to think of a reasonable way to make it work, but ended up just making my panel that moves the gauges 2" closer to the driver instead.
My 3-gauge pillar hit the dash pad too so I took it out....now I'm making a 3-gauge pod to mount where the HVAC controls used to be (since the car is basically stripped and has no heat or A/C.) It'll house fuel pressure, A/F ratio, and N2O pressure gauges (although the last will not be hooked up until the end of next spring most likely.)
#13
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
Originally posted by TheGreatJ
I think you'll have a REAL tough time making a plate to use the stock housing. For one thing, you'll need extra clearance in the front for the gauge bezels (which means moving the gauges farther back so they won't hit the clear plastic piece,) and for another you'll need lots of room in the back for the gauge housings. I spent 2 weeks trying to think of a reasonable way to make it work, but ended up just making my panel that moves the gauges 2" closer to the driver instead.
I think you'll have a REAL tough time making a plate to use the stock housing. For one thing, you'll need extra clearance in the front for the gauge bezels (which means moving the gauges farther back so they won't hit the clear plastic piece,) and for another you'll need lots of room in the back for the gauge housings. I spent 2 weeks trying to think of a reasonable way to make it work, but ended up just making my panel that moves the gauges 2" closer to the driver instead.
#14
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
That's not a bad idea, but holding the gauges in place becomes an issue. If you could set up a bracket-and-clamp system that holds the gauges by the cups, you could put a piece of Lexan or plexi across the front of them and paint it (mask circles in front of the gauges to make "windows" in the paint) to create the bezel. It would look more stockish than mine that way because it would have a single bezel for all the gauges, instead of individual rings.
#15
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From: Sayreville nj usa
Car: 02 redfire gtp coupe
Engine: 3.8 modded and supercharged
Transmission: 4t65-ehd
if you mount them in the original cluster there is a 5 minuite epoxy for plastic. i got it at home depot. its ina double syringe. the stuff works wonders. i used it in making my custom panel for my gtp. another thought instead of metal, use plexiglass. to get the correct bend in metal you need some skill, but for the amature use a room heater and a sheet of plexi. just hold it over the heater until it gets "flexi" then bend to shape. just heat your drill bits or saw blades and keep the plexi warm and it wont crack while cutting it. this gives you a few more options. like backlighting, strobes, you can paint it, or use vinal. just cut a design in the vinal, lay it over the plexi and you can backlight it with a led. then you can have chevy, camaro etc light up on your dash
#16
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From: Pinehurst, NC, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro
Engine: 350 miniram
Transmission: T-56
Hey thanks for that idea, I think that may work. I was going to make the guage holder out of sheet metal but if plexiglass is easier to mold into the shape i need I may try that approach. I also have a heat gun so that should make life much easier. Again thanks to everybody for the good ideas.
#18
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Bowling Green, Ky
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: Ls1
Transmission: Ati Powerglide
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.50 gear
Here are a few pics of mine. I like them mounted behind the factory plastic. They stay much cleaner this way. No speedo though. Figure if I'm worried about speed I'm probably going to fast anyway.
http://home.insightbb.com/~jessie.co...D-1046025.html
http://home.insightbb.com/~jessie.co...D-1046024.html
http://home.insightbb.com/~jessie.co...D-1046025.html
http://home.insightbb.com/~jessie.co...D-1046024.html
#19
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From: Tucson - MdFormula350 = Post uberWhore
Car: Sexy
Engine: Stock
Transmission: Slipping
Originally posted by coulterz28
Here are a few pics of mine. I like them mounted behind the factory plastic. They stay much cleaner this way. No speedo though. Figure if I'm worried about speed I'm probably going to fast anyway.
http://home.insightbb.com/~jessie.co...D-1046025.html
http://home.insightbb.com/~jessie.co...D-1046024.html
Here are a few pics of mine. I like them mounted behind the factory plastic. They stay much cleaner this way. No speedo though. Figure if I'm worried about speed I'm probably going to fast anyway.
http://home.insightbb.com/~jessie.co...D-1046025.html
http://home.insightbb.com/~jessie.co...D-1046024.html
#20
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From: Bowling Green, Ky
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: Ls1
Transmission: Ati Powerglide
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.50 gear
Thanks. I mounted them to the factory rear piece of the cluster. Basically cut it all out except the outer ring. Took some time that's for sure.
#21
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From: ontario
Car: 1985 camaro
Engine: 305 H.O
Transmission: auto
well i bet if you could fiberglass good you could get it to work pretty good..i would love to do it to...i got the big 5' ugly gas tach and those 3 stupid lights that dont work...but i dont know if it would be easy or not to install sensors to make the volt meter and oil and gas ones work the same...
#25
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From: Pinehurst, NC, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro
Engine: 350 miniram
Transmission: T-56
Yeah I thought so...I made the exact same template when I considered that combo.
I couldn't resist the 5" Speedo and Tach so I'm probably only going to be able to squeeze one 2 5/8" guage in the middle. I'll mount the others under the vent area above the radio and climate controls.
Thanks for your input
I couldn't resist the 5" Speedo and Tach so I'm probably only going to be able to squeeze one 2 5/8" guage in the middle. I'll mount the others under the vent area above the radio and climate controls.
Thanks for your input
#26
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From: Mass
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I proberbly couldhave got away with 5" gauges but I wanted to retain the blinkers and warning lights. I ended up cutting out spots for those things and it reduced the area I had to work with. Im gonna make a new face for the gauges without the cut outs so that I can move the lower gauges up a bit and space them out alittle. I'll end up using LED lights for the blinkers and stuff.
#27
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,155
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From: Louisville, Ky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
those are beautiful setups guys!!! am i wrong in seeing that bottled's needles look red and greatj's look orange???? arent they both procomps?
Last edited by CamarosRUS; 01-21-2005 at 03:53 PM.
#28
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
It's all in the lighting. If you'll notice, in the second pic of mine (that Zero posted) the needles look more red. It's just how the light reflects and the camera pics it up.
#31
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From: Texas
Car: 92 RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally posted by Neil
I wish I would have put the electronic speedo in like you did!
I wish I would have put the electronic speedo in like you did!
Tom
#32
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
Originally posted by kd5boc
Except that it's 3x more expensive, or course routing the speedo cable for the mechanical one turned out to be a PITA!
Tom
Except that it's 3x more expensive, or course routing the speedo cable for the mechanical one turned out to be a PITA!
Tom
#33
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From: Texas
Car: 92 RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally posted by TheGreatJ
True, but for a T56 car you have to have it. It's also nice to be able to recalibrate for gear/tire changes by simply pressing a button twice, driving two miles, and pressing it again.
True, but for a T56 car you have to have it. It's also nice to be able to recalibrate for gear/tire changes by simply pressing a button twice, driving two miles, and pressing it again.
#35
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,346
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From: Monticello, IN USA
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
Here is what I had in the Camaro. I know what you are talking about on the curve. Mine were flat. I didn't have the time to make it curved, and then the adapters to make the gauges fit the curves.
#37
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this palce sells a gauge cluster thing for 90-92's it looks like..
http://jimmy-jams.tripod.com/3gcamarobmplates.htm
http://jimmy-jams.tripod.com/3gcamarobmplates.htm
#38
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From: Texas
Car: 92 RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally posted by KiLLJ0Y
question on the fuel level gauge..
do you have to use the Autometer sending unit? or is there some other way of wiring it in?
question on the fuel level gauge..
do you have to use the Autometer sending unit? or is there some other way of wiring it in?
#39
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Posts: 171
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From: Texas
Car: 92 RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally posted by sp63
this palce sells a gauge cluster thing for 90-92's it looks like..
http://jimmy-jams.tripod.com/3gcamarobmplates.htm
this palce sells a gauge cluster thing for 90-92's it looks like..
http://jimmy-jams.tripod.com/3gcamarobmplates.htm
#40
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From: Mass
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
like stated above, you can just wire up the CORRECT fuel level gauge with the Fftory wire that fed the old gauge.Get a 0-90 ohm gauge. That is what I did and it works like the stock one did(crappy but it works) Note to self..make sure you DO NOT bend of disturb the float in the tank when changing the pump or the gauge will be off or work funny.
#41
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,981
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From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
Originally posted by johnsjj2
Here is what I had in the Camaro. I know what you are talking about on the curve. Mine were flat. I didn't have the time to make it curved, and then the adapters to make the gauges fit the curves.
Here is what I had in the Camaro. I know what you are talking about on the curve. Mine were flat. I didn't have the time to make it curved, and then the adapters to make the gauges fit the curves.
#44
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Hey guys, I made my own set up kind of like the ones in here. I also put a bit of a twist on it all. I am not sure how to post pics, so go to my website in my profile. There are tons of pics and steps all spelled out, about how I did it all.
All you need is a bit of patience and careful cutting. I mounted mine with big zip ties. lol. whatever works i guess, hehe.
All you need is a bit of patience and careful cutting. I mounted mine with big zip ties. lol. whatever works i guess, hehe.
#47
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Yeah the car is really coming togeather now.
As for the headlight switch, it is allready there, you just can't see it very well in the pics.
It is in the stock location almost, just had to drill a new hole and mount the switch in the dash a few inches over due to the new panel. It is still just the small metal stick that it comes with stock. I will most likely put a little aluminum ball or something on it, so it is easier to see/grab...
As for the headlight switch, it is allready there, you just can't see it very well in the pics.
It is in the stock location almost, just had to drill a new hole and mount the switch in the dash a few inches over due to the new panel. It is still just the small metal stick that it comes with stock. I will most likely put a little aluminum ball or something on it, so it is easier to see/grab...
#49
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Are you asking me about my set up??
Cuz mine is not metal if so...let me know, I hope I can help
Cuz mine is not metal if so...let me know, I hope I can help