Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
#1
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Car: 1991 Z28
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Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
I'm going to be doing an engine swap soon so I'm doing research on headers. The two best options seem to be the hooker 2055 and Dyno Don's headers. Looking through the sticked hooker 2055 thread, it appears that quite a few modifcations are needed to get to them to work correctly. 90 degree boot spark plug wires, short spark plugs, and apparently changing the plugs are still a bitch to do even with those mods. Without the mods it sounds like the headers will not even fit on the engine.
Searching around, I haven't been able to find anything similar for the Dyno Don headers. No one seems to be talking about any modifications that they had to do to get the headers to find on the engine. Nor have I seen anything about how difficult/easy it makes changing the plugs.
For anyone that has the Dyno Don headers: did you have to do anything special to get the headers to fit? Or was it as plug and play as the lack of topics on the subject makes it seem?
Searching around, I haven't been able to find anything similar for the Dyno Don headers. No one seems to be talking about any modifications that they had to do to get the headers to find on the engine. Nor have I seen anything about how difficult/easy it makes changing the plugs.
For anyone that has the Dyno Don headers: did you have to do anything special to get the headers to fit? Or was it as plug and play as the lack of topics on the subject makes it seem?
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Car: 1991 Formula 350, 2002 Grand Prix G
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Re: Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
Don't have any idea about the Dyno Don Headers, but I installed the Edlebrock TES and was a BITCH to install with the engine in place, but except for the two passenger rear plugs, all the others are not that hard from up top. I did use an SLP shorty socket for the plugs and the two rear passenger plugs can be gotten from underneath. I also am using A/C Delco Platinum pugs, so I don't intend to be replacing them any time soon.
#4
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Re: Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
I have read just about every thread on here regarding Dyno Dons headers and what I can gather is they are the best fitting shorty style headers on the market for our cars. With that being said, there are a SMALL amount of customers that had fitment issues BUT that was most likely due to the car and not the headers. As with any aftermarket product, there is no guarantee that it will be a direct bolt in.
And for the record, the Dyno Don headers are a thousand times better than the 2055s.
I plan on buying a set of his headers along with his matching ypipe at the end of the Fall this year. It will be my winter project.
And for the record, the Dyno Don headers are a thousand times better than the 2055s.
I plan on buying a set of his headers along with his matching ypipe at the end of the Fall this year. It will be my winter project.
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Re: Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
Headers for a small block Chevy in general tend to cause problems w plugs. Pretty much inherent in the physical layout of the engine. Some headers are worse than others, but, when you buy headers, you sign up for trouble w plugs.
That said, every imaginable wrench & socket that fits whatever plugs fit in the heads you have, will come in handy. Some might need a wrench with no offset, some might need 1", some might even need one of those sockets that has a hex on it and a wrench to turn that. All depends on how the tubes are routed. And, if some one tube is routed in some "optimal" way, it about guarantees that some other tube will go RIGHT IN FRONT OF a plug or some such.
I would NOT not buy headers just because of that. The benefits generally outweigh the minor hassles involved.
Make sure whatever headers you get are ceramic coated. Even if they're stainless steel. The cost of replacing plug wires hoses sensors and every other non-metallic underhood part on a regular and routine repetitive basis, will RAPIDLY OUTWEIGH the cost of coating.
That said, every imaginable wrench & socket that fits whatever plugs fit in the heads you have, will come in handy. Some might need a wrench with no offset, some might need 1", some might even need one of those sockets that has a hex on it and a wrench to turn that. All depends on how the tubes are routed. And, if some one tube is routed in some "optimal" way, it about guarantees that some other tube will go RIGHT IN FRONT OF a plug or some such.
I would NOT not buy headers just because of that. The benefits generally outweigh the minor hassles involved.
Make sure whatever headers you get are ceramic coated. Even if they're stainless steel. The cost of replacing plug wires hoses sensors and every other non-metallic underhood part on a regular and routine repetitive basis, will RAPIDLY OUTWEIGH the cost of coating.
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Re: Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
Let me jump in here with a little insite....
I designed my headers with a little insite to all the issues that usually come with headers. And they are definately for performance (1 3/4" tubes) this does make for a tight fit next to the tubes for bolts, that's why I recommend ARP 100-1109 5/16th head bolts.
They are made with a 3/8th thick flanges so they don't warp and blow gaskets.
They are made to clear with regular spark plugs (they do fit better with angle plug heads).
They are probably the easiest to change plugs of all the ones out there.
They have a ball & socket collector so you don't have to use a gasket (nothing to blow out).
They install fairly easy and have the correct smog connections (when needed).
Each set is hand made to order (no mass production here).
They don't interfere with anything so no denting is needed.
They all come coated to reduce heat in the engine compartment and last longer.
Hope this helps
BTW if you went to a header shop and asked for them to be made this way
you could expect to pay a lot more than I ask for them.
I designed my headers with a little insite to all the issues that usually come with headers. And they are definately for performance (1 3/4" tubes) this does make for a tight fit next to the tubes for bolts, that's why I recommend ARP 100-1109 5/16th head bolts.
They are made with a 3/8th thick flanges so they don't warp and blow gaskets.
They are made to clear with regular spark plugs (they do fit better with angle plug heads).
They are probably the easiest to change plugs of all the ones out there.
They have a ball & socket collector so you don't have to use a gasket (nothing to blow out).
They install fairly easy and have the correct smog connections (when needed).
Each set is hand made to order (no mass production here).
They don't interfere with anything so no denting is needed.
They all come coated to reduce heat in the engine compartment and last longer.
Hope this helps
BTW if you went to a header shop and asked for them to be made this way
you could expect to pay a lot more than I ask for them.
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Re: Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
1) Steel coolant tube on passenger side frame - remove the rear mounting tab, push away from engine.
2) Brake lines - pull steering shaft to bend the brake lines under the shaft instead of over, reinstall Astro upgraded shaft while you're at it.
3) shorty socket... something like these from Trick Flow or SLP. Check your size needed.
#10
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Re: Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
U did the right thing. And they are are good enough to support over 500hp.
#11
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Re: Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
Let me jump in here with a little insite....
I designed my headers with a little insite to all the issues that usually come with headers. And they are definately for performance (1 3/4" tubes) this does make for a tight fit next to the tubes for bolts, that's why I recommend ARP 100-1109 5/16th head bolts.
They are made with a 3/8th thick flanges so they don't warp and blow gaskets.
They are made to clear with regular spark plugs (they do fit better with angle plug heads).
They are probably the easiest to change plugs of all the ones out there.
They have a ball & socket collector so you don't have to use a gasket (nothing to blow out).
They install fairly easy and have the correct smog connections (when needed).
Each set is hand made to order (no mass production here).
They don't interfere with anything so no denting is needed.
They all come coated to reduce heat in the engine compartment and last longer.
Hope this helps
BTW if you went to a header shop and asked for them to be made this way
you could expect to pay a lot more than I ask for them.
I designed my headers with a little insite to all the issues that usually come with headers. And they are definately for performance (1 3/4" tubes) this does make for a tight fit next to the tubes for bolts, that's why I recommend ARP 100-1109 5/16th head bolts.
They are made with a 3/8th thick flanges so they don't warp and blow gaskets.
They are made to clear with regular spark plugs (they do fit better with angle plug heads).
They are probably the easiest to change plugs of all the ones out there.
They have a ball & socket collector so you don't have to use a gasket (nothing to blow out).
They install fairly easy and have the correct smog connections (when needed).
Each set is hand made to order (no mass production here).
They don't interfere with anything so no denting is needed.
They all come coated to reduce heat in the engine compartment and last longer.
Hope this helps
BTW if you went to a header shop and asked for them to be made this way
you could expect to pay a lot more than I ask for them.
I wish you would come out with some turbo setups like BBS did back in the day.. Geez these guys would make you rich!
I still cannot believe that not one single manufacturer has come up with a magnacharger setup like on the LS series engines for older small blocks. A compact one like they use.
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Re: Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
I'm going to be doing an engine swap soon so I'm doing research on headers. The two best options seem to be the hooker 2055 and Dyno Don's headers. Looking through the sticked hooker 2055 thread, it appears that quite a few modifcations are needed to get to them to work correctly. 90 degree boot spark plug wires, short spark plugs, and apparently changing the plugs are still a bitch to do even with those mods. Without the mods it sounds like the headers will not even fit on the engine.
Searching around, I haven't been able to find anything similar for the Dyno Don headers. No one seems to be talking about any modifications that they had to do to get the headers to find on the engine. Nor have I seen anything about how difficult/easy it makes changing the plugs.
For anyone that has the Dyno Don headers: did you have to do anything special to get the headers to fit? Or was it as plug and play as the lack of topics on the subject makes it seem?
Searching around, I haven't been able to find anything similar for the Dyno Don headers. No one seems to be talking about any modifications that they had to do to get the headers to find on the engine. Nor have I seen anything about how difficult/easy it makes changing the plugs.
For anyone that has the Dyno Don headers: did you have to do anything special to get the headers to fit? Or was it as plug and play as the lack of topics on the subject makes it seem?
OBX also makes some shorty headers (stainless) which appear to be copies of the hooker 2055. I have not confirmed the primary size, but if they are 1 3/4" they would be a great deal also. They come with Y-pipe. Based on the pictures of the flange they look to be 1 3/4" like the long tube version.
Either set is under around $400 complete shipped. Sometimes cheaper, sometimes more expensive.
-- Joe
#13
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Re: Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
I have a set of non air tube,ceramic coated Dyno Don's headers and Y pipe. All I can say is, what a quality set of headers and Y pipe. Fit and finish was perfect. I also have angle plugs, so now i can change all the plugs from under the hood. I have 90 degree plug boots with wire and boot protectors on each wire. They sure make the 3" borla's sound nice, and when i open up the electric cut out, they just roar.
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Re: Any addtional changes need for dyno don headers?
What Y-Pipe is used with Dyno Don headers?
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