Hooker exhaust matching help
#1
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: 3.1L(swapping in 385)
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Hooker exhaust matching help
I'm really interested in the Hooker Aerochamber mufflers and I want to go with shorty headers. I've heard great things about the Hooker 2055 headers. I'm trying to piece an exhaust system together and right now I have the headers and Hooker cat back 16823HKR.
Both:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-2055hkr
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...w/make/pontiac
I realize I'm missing the cat part of the exhaust so I was hoping someone could either point me in the direction of a fitting cat(high flow) or the right tubes to hook it together if that's possible to tell from looking at it. I was trying to avoid having to buy it separate.
Both:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-2055hkr
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...w/make/pontiac
I realize I'm missing the cat part of the exhaust so I was hoping someone could either point me in the direction of a fitting cat(high flow) or the right tubes to hook it together if that's possible to tell from looking at it. I was trying to avoid having to buy it separate.
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Car: 1992 Firebird
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Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
Another question I have is these all say for 305/350 TPI/HO etc. Why do they say this? I don't see why it would be any different with a 385 carb'd motor.
EDIT: I'll definitely get those Jegs ones instead of Summit. The Summit ones have a 5/16 flange thickness and 18 gauge tubing. After researching more I saw that 16 gauge is thicker walls and better for sound. The Jegs also have 3/8 flange thickness which I saw was better for gasket life.
Last edited by Seanphelps321; 05-20-2013 at 05:58 PM.
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Car: 1992 Firebird
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Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
Hate to bump but does anybody know why these say for TPI/HO? It shouldn't matter that it's when it comes to clearance. Is that just to clarify the model specific exhaust system or should I be concerned about buying these? The engine will be a carbed 385 stroker.
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Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
The HO's have a 4 bolt flange on each end of the converter.
#6
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Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
DO NOT BUY!!! They SUCK, the ypipe barley and I mean BARLEY fit.
$750 is way to much (I bought them new)
the headers them selves are "ok"...the Y-pipe is straight trash! I had to over torque the bolts to bend the ears in order to get it to fit "ok".
Also it made to connect to the rest of the exhaust....which it doesn't. I had to buy a slip pipe (I have not cat but a pipe put it to connect the exhaust and I cut -LESS- than I would (the whole exhaust is welded all together btw...) cut btw...just incase but nooooo. I still was at least 3" from connecting.
also the y pipe started rust in the 6 months that the kit was on the car. Headers have some rust on them to but its not a big deal) and another thing, the coating also started flaking off (badly)...yea...6 months.
...so much for the so called best header company in the biss...$750..not I have LTs (1 3/4 - 3") and a (open) mufflex Y pipe for $50 more than this kit (about $775)
Dons headers or LTs are your only good options, remember your only as fast as your slowest man...esp if hes in the back of the line...
-also don't buy into the shortie > LT battle, read the LT vs shortie thread and then make a real decision.
$750 is way to much (I bought them new)
the headers them selves are "ok"...the Y-pipe is straight trash! I had to over torque the bolts to bend the ears in order to get it to fit "ok".
Also it made to connect to the rest of the exhaust....which it doesn't. I had to buy a slip pipe (I have not cat but a pipe put it to connect the exhaust and I cut -LESS- than I would (the whole exhaust is welded all together btw...) cut btw...just incase but nooooo. I still was at least 3" from connecting.
also the y pipe started rust in the 6 months that the kit was on the car. Headers have some rust on them to but its not a big deal) and another thing, the coating also started flaking off (badly)...yea...6 months.
...so much for the so called best header company in the biss...$750..not I have LTs (1 3/4 - 3") and a (open) mufflex Y pipe for $50 more than this kit (about $775)
Dons headers or LTs are your only good options, remember your only as fast as your slowest man...esp if hes in the back of the line...
-also don't buy into the shortie > LT battle, read the LT vs shortie thread and then make a real decision.
#7
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Car: 1992 Firebird
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Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
DO NOT BUY!!! They SUCK, the ypipe barley and I mean BARLEY fit.
$750 is way to much (I bought them new)
the headers them selves are "ok"...the Y-pipe is straight trash! I had to over torque the bolts to bend the ears in order to get it to fit "ok".
Also it made to connect to the rest of the exhaust....which it doesn't. I had to buy a slip pipe (I have not cat but a pipe put it to connect the exhaust and I cut -LESS- than I would (the whole exhaust is welded all together btw...) cut btw...just incase but nooooo. I still was at least 3" from connecting.
also the y pipe started rust in the 6 months that the kit was on the car. Headers have some rust on them to but its not a big deal) and another thing, the coating also started flaking off (badly)...yea...6 months.
...so much for the so called best header company in the biss...$750..not I have LTs (1 3/4 - 3") and a (open) mufflex Y pipe for $50 more than this kit (about $775)
Dons headers or LTs are your only good options, remember your only as fast as your slowest man...esp if hes in the back of the line...
-also don't buy into the shortie > LT battle, read the LT vs shortie thread and then make a real decision.
$750 is way to much (I bought them new)
the headers them selves are "ok"...the Y-pipe is straight trash! I had to over torque the bolts to bend the ears in order to get it to fit "ok".
Also it made to connect to the rest of the exhaust....which it doesn't. I had to buy a slip pipe (I have not cat but a pipe put it to connect the exhaust and I cut -LESS- than I would (the whole exhaust is welded all together btw...) cut btw...just incase but nooooo. I still was at least 3" from connecting.
also the y pipe started rust in the 6 months that the kit was on the car. Headers have some rust on them to but its not a big deal) and another thing, the coating also started flaking off (badly)...yea...6 months.
...so much for the so called best header company in the biss...$750..not I have LTs (1 3/4 - 3") and a (open) mufflex Y pipe for $50 more than this kit (about $775)
Dons headers or LTs are your only good options, remember your only as fast as your slowest man...esp if hes in the back of the line...
-also don't buy into the shortie > LT battle, read the LT vs shortie thread and then make a real decision.
I want to stick to shorty because this car isn't going to be on the strip except for rare occasions. So I don't want to deal with the clearance issues. Not worth it in my case.
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#9
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Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
With the Y pipe in the kit you WILL have clearance issues...thats 1 of the reasons why I hated them.
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Car: '90 Trans Am-12.45@110.71
Engine: 355 w/AFR 195's Elem. 400/430 HP/TQ
Transmission: Tremec T-56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 3.73
Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
These are what you want for a 385:
#16
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Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
From what I've read the best decision is the ceramic coated headers for various reasons. I've also read that ceramic coated headers on a new engine (mine will be completely fresh) will end up having a damaged coating during break in. Should I be concerned?
#18
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Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
Should I just use stock manifolds for initial break in and then put headers on? It should run cool enough afterwards
#20
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Car: 1992 Firebird
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Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
Ok. Well the engine is a freshly built 385. The bird it's going into is a 191 V6 so I don't really have any manifolds or even exhaust for a V8 laying around. What should I do? lol
#24
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Re: Hooker exhaust matching help
Grab a set of sbc manifolds from the junk yard for break in? Or buy the headers uncoated and get them coated after break in?
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