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Just cut and tack weld it. Then bring it to a professional. If im unsure I just let someone who does it for a living give an honest opinion on the outcome.
That's a good idea. I have a friend that is a superb TIG welder. If the tack welds go on easy I'll try to TIG a short segment and based on that outcome, I'll know if I can do it. I think as long as the tubes mate together perfectly with no open root, I should be able to do it.
I had my friend who has his own fabrication/restoration help me out. Didn't take long. Took some pictures of the space available and what needed done and then went to his place and got to work. Took two hours. Cut off the front primary tube, re-positioned and added a turn. Clears the spark plug fine! Problem is the A arm is at angle towards the nose of the car and that tube now hits the a arm so I had to cut it apart and remake it. I won't clutter this thread with lots of explanation, you can read my build thread for that. Here is the picture of what we made and another of what I had to remake. Back purging this will eat up some argon for sure...
I had my friend who has his own fabrication/restoration help me out. Didn't take long. Took some pictures of the space available and what needed done and then went to his place and got to work. Took two hours. Cut off the front primary tube, re-positioned and added a turn. Clears the spark plug fine! Problem is the A arm is at angle towards the nose of the car and that tube now hits the a arm so I had to cut it apart and remake it. I won't clutter this thread with lots of explanation, you can read my build thread for that. Here is the picture of what we made and another of what I had to remake. Back purging this will eat up some argon for sure...
Ok, So let me see if I can get this straight. You have the pre eliminator AFR 190 heads. They where available in straight, angle or L98 Angle plug positions. So do you have the actually Angle plug heads or the L98 angle plug heads. I am assuming that there is a slight difference between the two.
I am currently running the L98 version part #1018. The regular angle plug heads where part #1000, 1001, 1005, and 1006 or 1032 for cnc package. Depending on the chamber size and having heat risers. I am really hoping I will not have this issue.
Please help clarify. Thanks
Last edited by bluegrassz; 08-28-2017 at 07:14 AM.
AFR 190 PRE ELIMINATOR HEAD
190 Angle plug part numbers #1000, 1001, 1005, 1006 and 1032 for cnc competition
190 L98 heads part numbers # 1017, 1018 and 1088 for cnc competition
I had no idea that their were two different angles available for the AFRs (pre-eliminator) so I don't know what version I have. The only thing I can say about them is I did had them flow bench'd and they flowed what the competition line was reported to flow, so they must be the comp port version. Were comp ports available in both angles? Can anyone get out a protractor and measure what an L98 angle is? In case I hadn't said it before, the Hooker long tubes had no problem with these plug angles.
Yes comp ports was available in all three designs.
Angle #1032
Straight # 1085
L98 #1088
If it uses the 87-up intake then they will be the L98 version just like a stock TPI center bolt head. Luckily I found my AFR 2003 Master Catalog & technical guide. It has the parts numbers as well as flow numbers for all 2003 AFR heads.
Yes comp ports was available in all three designs.
Angle #1032
Straight # 1085
L98 #1088
If it uses the 87-up intake then they will be the L98 version just like a stock TPI center bolt head. Luckily I found my AFR 2003 Master Catalog & technical guide. It has the parts numbers as well as flow numbers for all 2003 AFR heads.
I currently have the 86 and older valve covers and intake manifold design, but I am fairly certain it can take either valve cover.
My heads came with only the center bolt valve cover provisions. No bosses on the side for the older style covers. Hopefully the headers will work for me.
My heads came with only the center bolt valve cover provisions. No bosses on the side for the older style covers. Hopefully the headers will work for me.
PM me if they don't, perhaps I could buy them from you or "fix them" for you.
PM me if they don't, perhaps I could buy them from you or "fix them" for you.
Tibo, I am selling my set, they just need to be cleaned off. They sounded awesome, and flowed extremely well, I just decided to go back to the turbo setup in my case otherwise I would have kept them. Let me know if anyone is interested, rarely even used them. First vid shows how they sound, second vid shows them removed. Price I stated in the video is for everyone...
Tibo, I am selling my set, they just need to be cleaned off. They sounded awesome, and flowed extremely well, I just decided to go back to the turbo setup in my case otherwise I would have kept them. Let me know if anyone is interested, rarely even used them. First vid shows how they sound, second vid shows them removed. Price I stated in the video is for everyone...
- Rob
I have a brand new set in a box too for a rainy day.
Still don't know why you went back to turbo. There was a D1SC for sale for short money for like 2 months on here, and a few HSR intakes.
I have a brand new set in a box too for a rainy day.
Still don't know why you went back to turbo. There was a D1SC for sale for short money for like 2 months on here, and a few HSR intakes.
-- Joe
I tell ya Joe, was hearing so much about thrown belts and such, then when you stopped with your build I knew something was up. Once I realized you might have been having issues too with thrown belts, I was like... let me just throw that damn turbo on it again. Kicked my butt with it though this passed weekend, did a lot even after that video. Got a lot done, long overdue. Waiting on an On3 Turbo, but wait til you see what I did with the temporary one lol.
I tell ya Joe, was hearing so much about thrown belts and such, then when you stopped with your build I knew something was up. Once I realized you might have been having issues too with thrown belts, I was like... let me just throw that damn turbo on it again. Kicked my butt with it though this passed weekend, did a lot even after that video. Got a lot done, long overdue. Waiting on an On3 Turbo, but wait til you see what I did with the temporary one lol.
- Rob
Bracket flex causes belt issues. Lots of people have belt issues. Lots don't.
I don't know how many turbo cars are still on the board that are actually driven. I know there is an absurd number of supercharged cars.
Maybe everyone posts at the turboforums.
I know my experience with the turbo was heat + lag. I know a lot of guys I talk to who race turbo cars run very inconsistent. They have a lot of excuses for why the car seems to run differently. The supercharged cars all seem to run very consistent. Maybe it's just a New England thing.
Bracket flex causes belt issues. Lots of people have belt issues. Lots don't.
I don't know how many turbo cars are still on the board that are actually driven. I know there is an absurd number of supercharged cars.
Maybe everyone posts at the turboforums.
I know my experience with the turbo was heat + lag. I know a lot of guys I talk to who race turbo cars run very inconsistent. They have a lot of excuses for why the car seems to run differently. The supercharged cars all seem to run very consistent. Maybe it's just a New England thing.
-- Joe
I'll agree with you there Joe, almost everyone on here builds their turbo third gens for the track, rarely see them being driven on the street. Aside from Steve, aka ZZ3astro, I haven't seen much on here either running on a consistent basis. Well, I gotta give props to Torched though, his turbo bird is very sweet on the street. Pretty fast third gen built for the street, the way I like to see them...
I'll agree with you there Joe, almost everyone on here builds their turbo third gens for the track, rarely see them being driven on the street. Aside from Steve, aka ZZ3astro, I haven't seen much on here either running on a consistent basis. Well, I gotta give props to Torched though, his turbo bird is very sweet on the street. Pretty fast third gen built for the street, the way I like to see them...
I haven't been following his thread or youtube videos in nearly a year, but I know he was having a lot of weird problems for the longest time.
There is a few single turbo cars on here, and a few builds.
So fast forward to 2018, do they still have flange issues on these headers? I am looking to get better ground clearance then what I have with Hooker long tubes. I can fix them if they do was just curious if anyone has grabbed a pair recently.
So fast forward to 2018, do they still have flange issues on these headers? I am looking to get better ground clearance then what I have with Hooker long tubes. I can fix them if they do was just curious if anyone has grabbed a pair recently.
I can let you know within next week or so as I have my new engine sitting on the stand and am hoping to test fit the headers over the weekend.
I read the thread here and followed on Facebook. Have a 305 with a t56 and stock clutch assembly. Will these fit my application and does anyone have pics ?
I plant to get a set and post as well
Short answer yes, you will need to heat and massage the 3 inch area to get clearance. I can take pics tomorrow. Didn't matter to me as I cut off the 3 into 2.5 and added 3 inch Stainless steel to attach to the Hooker blackheart dual exhaust.
Also Flanges fit the heads perfect. They got the hole issues fixed.
I read the thread here and followed on Facebook. Have a 305 with a t56 and stock clutch assembly. Will these fit my application and does anyone have pics ?
You sure you read the entire thread? Post #304 picture #2 shows that you just need to grind the ridge off the side of the slave cylinder housing and you're good to go. It's exactly what I did. You could dent the effected area of the header as an alternative but I wouldn't fool around with heating these up with a rosebud in order to move them. They fit pretty tight so you would need to heat them up on the car which is really begging for trouble.
I bought the HAWKS xmem and wasn't too happy with it. The fitment between the rails was tight and sort of affected the alignment of the mount holes.
I'm planning on modding my Spohn xmem as it fits excellent.
I'm currently running a Spohn and was thinking of switching to the Hawks but have read mixed reviews regarding figment. The Spohn is a bulky piece though and hangs low. How do you plan to modify?
On the pas side of the xmem im going to run a piece of channel or rounded rectangle from just off center up to the plate on that side then cut the old parts out so when that side is done its cleared for the exhaust to run thru and no geometry will be affected.
as for the dr side im not sure as that side dosent have the side plate like the pas side. i did trim the piece that hangs down under the cross bar so its even with the underside.
My OBX stainless long tubes came today just before I had to go to work. They look nice and are just as shown in the pictures. I snapped a quick picture when I took them out of the box. I will unpack all the pieces when I get home in the morning and get some better pictures. I plan to mock up my engine with my AFR 210 heads and bellhousing with slave cylinder to check as many clearances as I can before going into the car with them.
Only complaint is the drivers side hits a little by the collector, and the passenger side hits the trans mount. Drove it maybe a few days like that when I couldn't take it anymore, and started cutting to make some room. Perfectly fine after that. Haven't bottomed out yet, and I drive it hard. So to answer your question, plenti-o-room...
You sure you read the entire thread? Post #304 picture #2 shows that you just need to grind the ridge off the side of the slave cylinder housing and you're good to go. It's exactly what I did. You could dent the effected area of the header as an alternative but I wouldn't fool around with heating these up with a rosebud in order to move them. They fit pretty tight so you would need to heat them up on the car which is really begging for trouble.
Hi Tibo, the picture you referenced as in Post #304 picture #2, where can I find that? I ordered my Quick Time bellhousing for my LT1 T56 swap and was going to mock up the block, heads, bellhousing and stainless long tubes in the shop and try to resolve the slave mounting clearance issue and I bought some ACCEL shorty plugs for my AFR 210 heads to see if those will help the plug clearance problem. Any pictures of these issues would be helpful as my bellhousing will be here Tuesday and I will start on checkout.
I'm not sure what you're looking to find. That is the stock bellhousing that he and I both ground down slightly to remove the ridge. Or is it that you are having trouble with the spark plugs and the headers on your accel headers?
Hi, I have heard of both clearance problems, the plugs and the bellhousing where the slave mounts. I'm trying to eliminate the problems that I can before installing in the car..
From what I read and discovered, if you have older AFR heads the spark plugs will be an issue and Accel shorties will not work. I've never seen aftermarket bellhousings in person with a T56 so I don't know if they would pose a problem either.
My heads were purchased about May of 2018.from AFR. I figure I could look at these clearance issues and try to resolve them before installing. When I get time off from worlk and mock this up with the Quick Time bellhousing and I will take pictures and post them and maybe it will help someone else trying to do this.
Your heads are brand spanking new. Anesthisis and some others had said and shown that the newer version that you have posses no problems with spark plugs.
So I assume that all of these cheap SS longtubes on ebay are really the same and just a different seller?
Need a set for my new dirt car and figured the price is right for the application. Plus would give me a feel for if I want them on my street Camaro or not.
So I assume that all of these cheap SS longtubes on ebay are really the same and just a different seller?
Need a set for my new dirt car and figured the price is right for the application. Plus would give me a feel for if I want them on my street Camaro or not.
Seems that way. Most likely an oversees company made a few hundred sets and sent them over and some American internet vendors bought them and are selling the same ones. Speed engineering probably makes their own or perhaps theirs were made by these other companies that turned around and stole the design.
They are SW copies with subpar materials & welds. The welds on the primaries are night and day. Sw comes with a solid mounting flange as well. I'll post up the welds later on.Call SW and ask them about the Ebay thirdgen set. I talked to them after I had a my set about a year from Hawks. They are very aware of these and have a low opinion on them.
I have another used set like these that I am selling for half the price of the ebay auctions. I tossed the header bolts though because they bottomed out, as well as hit the primaries when going in, so you would have to get another set unless I come across them in my garage. I wouldn't recommend those bolts anyway. If you're local, come on over and check them out, I don't mind. If you're in Brooklyn/Queens or Long Island, could more than likely meet up with you. If you're further, shipping these suckers is on you...
08-07-2017, 01:29 PM
