Joe's Rs

I just bought a used set of Hooker Headers 2460 for 50 bucks! They just need some sand blasting and they will be good.

I know they dont make a y-pipe for them but does anyone know of a y-pipe that will fit it? I rather not spend the money or time making one if i can buy one thats cheaper and will def fit.

Thanks
-Joe

Sparkytfl

They do. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-16767HKR/
But it's all 2.5 inch. And oh so expensive. Another company makes one that people say fits with no mods and is a hundred bucks less. Dougs?

Joe's Rs

yea i saw the one from dougs but wasnt sure it will fit. I hope it does

thanks

Joe's Rs

does the hedman 17478 y-pipe fit?\ onto the hookers?

they look exactly the same and are cheaper

also does anyone have the part # to the spark plugs they bought when then used the hooker headers? I was told I would need an angle plug, is that correct?

F-Body Demon

iTrader: (1)

Headmans use a ball/flange type connector which is different than your Hookers setup. Might check that first.

Joe's Rs

Im not really worried about that because i can just cut that off and weld it. I just want to make sure they meet around the same location

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

they dont... i just returned the headman Y pipe, it even fits horrible for the hedman headers let alone trying to make it work for hookers. do yourself a favor and have one custom made... i did, and only spent $150.. which is $30 more than the one from hedman. and i used 2 1/2's into a 3" instead of hedmans 2 1/4 to 2 1/2... the headers would be slightly strangled by tha stock sized 2 1/4 pipe.. no point in that..

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

they will all have the same basic design and look like they will work. but the hedmans collectors have a different angle, compaired to the angle of the collectors of the hookers..the hooker Y collector is more of a 90* angle and the headman is more like a 75* angle..

Joe's Rs

Alright I guess I will get a quote on it then instead of me fabricating it.

thanks guys

SLEEPER 86

P/N 520-16767 from jegs. But WHO makes a 3" y pipe for these?

formula350sd

iTrader: (2)

I don't believe anyone does... I'll be fabricating one next week hopefully

buying headers with 3 inch collectors only to use a 2.5 inch y pip is ****in retarded (pardon my expressions)

rffy

iTrader: (1)

I just paid 251.95 for this Y-pipe at Summit. I went to put it on and it does not fit if you are using an aftermarket pan. I have a 7 qt moroso and it comes up way short. Gotta go return it now.
Just thought I would let you guys know in case anyone else runs the comp headers with an aftermarket pan. It sucks cause the only reason I went with the $400 ceramic coated hookers was because they had a matching Y-pipe.....

Sparkytfl

Did ANY y pipe work with that oil pan? It's most likely not the exhaust's fault.

rffy

iTrader: (1)

Never said it was the pipe's fault, just that it wouldn't fit. I wasn't aware there was a problem with an aftermarket pan. Now I know better. Guess I will just go with a custom one.

TransAm.RaW86

Looking for headers to fit my 86 trans ammm!

IROCZDAN23

The Y-pipe that hooker makes to fit those headers says that It replaces the cat.... anyone know anything about this?

rbjones

I ordered a set of Hedman's, pt. # HED-68470 and Y-pipe, pt. # HED-17478 from Summit this week to arrive next week. This is the best combo I could find for a reasonable price, 1/4" flanges? Hmmm... Anyway, I hope buying the combo will make it fit OK.
Like formula350sd said though, a 3" collector flowing into a 2.5" Y-pipe to a 3" intermediary pipe makes no sense. I'll check the fit first, then duplicate that 2.5" section with 3" pipe to eliminate the bottleneck--hopefully.

Sparkytfl

It comes with an optional cat-delete pipe which has the same length and ends as a stock type cat. So it only replaces the cat if you use the pipe. If you dont, well then you leave it sitting around and it added to your cost for something you didnt need.

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

what are the rumors I read that say dougs Y fits the hooker 2460s? Is this just a misconception or does it really fit.

bdiroc

its not rumor that the dougs ypipe fits, it does its been on my car for a year, but make sure you dont use it the way you get it. I cut off the y section to 2.5 pipe and made it 3".

I couldnt believe the poor quality of the dougs ypipe ,when I cut it off. where the y was the opening was only about 3/4's of an inch opening (couldnt beleive it).

I would have been really mad if I put that on my car with the new motor making 360hp and only get about 140 if lucky with that ypipe.

Also make sure you plan ahead like I didnt and make sure the bend before where the cat used to be starts early so you can fit subframe connectors with out modding agian.

rbjones

OK, I'll check it all out--got the Hedman shorties and Y pipe Tuesday, sanding and painting today, smoothing some sharp edges. Where the runners merge into the collectors is a little rough inside, welding beads, trash, runs in the paint outside. Using Rusoleum high heat black--I've had very good luck with Rustoleum automotive products, first time trying their high heat paint.
Headers go on a week from today, working with a buddy at his home shop where he makes tube frames, back halves and exhaust--talented guy. The 2.5" Y pipe looks good quality but still needs to be 3"--we'll see.

DJK90IrocZ

Hey RBJones,

Did you sand your black uncoated Hedman headers down to bare metal first...then you sprayed them with High Heat Rustoleum paint? How high is the temp on the paint?

Which Hedmans are you using?.....Do you find that the 1/4" flange is thick enough to make a good seal?

Thanks...

the solitaire

If you're not looking to exceed 250 HP without having the exhaust as a limiting factor, the 2,5" Y-pipe is the best option.

The offroad pipe deletes the cat, which is about perfect. Just cut the pipe and fit a cat in between if you want/need the cat.

For anything over 250 HP, either have a Y pipe manufactured, cut off the Hooker Y pipe at the intersection and fit a 3" pipe, or pass on the 2460 and get the 2055 with Y pipe, which already is 3"

rbjones

DKJ90IrocZ--I messed up. I did a beautiful, smooth, run-free paint job with the Rustoleum, then I read the directions. The Hedman directions say the paint they come with is just to protect them during shipment and that it will burn off soon after starting the engine. Hmm... I sanded off the bad spots to bare metal but left 80% of the Hedman paint on there, scuffed, which means I'll probably get patches of good Rustoleum surrounded by bigger patches of rust--great.
The headers are still hanging by coat hangers in the garage, so I'll get a couple spray cans of paint stripper today and start over. Rusty headers are OK in my old truck but not in my Camaro. That 1/4" flange worries me, too, but I'm pretty good at checking my header bolts regularly until they don't loosen any more--I'll give updates.
Headers: #68470; Y-pipe: #17478--the Rustoleum can had the heat range, burned it up in the trash.
Mr. solitaire--the 2.5" Y-pipe does look pretty good, enough for this 305 certainly, but I'm building a 350 hp 350 and when it goes in I'll have to go to 3", might as well do it now. I didn't know about the 2055 pipe--thanks for the info--is it a Hedman piece?
Emissions laws are debateable out here now; official sources disagree about the cat requirements. I don't have one (moved out here partly to get away from SoCal laws) but maybe next year it will be required--depends on the inspection shop you go to, for right now.

the solitaire

Hooker 2055´s is a set of headers including the Y pipe (does not fit the Hooker 2460´s because the Y-pipe uses ball flanges rather then straight flanges.

As far as emissions go, the 2055´s have AIR tubes. They are quite expensive at approx $700 but possibly for anything up to 500 HP the best off-the-shelf solution you can buy.

rbjones

Hmmm..... I've wanted to try a set of ceramic coated headers for a while but the cost has held me back, maybe a set of Hooker Elites: 3/8" flanges, ceramic coated--but the cost takes the fun out of it for me. If I can get something for half the price (American made) I owe it to myself to save the money.
In this case, I read an article somewhere on this site that said the Hedmans were easy to install and fit well; friends have been pushing this ball-and-socket joint for a while and talking with the Summit tech line these seemed like the best deal. A little sanding and painting, attention to the header bolts for a few heat cycles and hopefully they'll be fine. I've been told to soak the header gaskets in water first--do you agree?

the solitaire

For one thing, exhaust is not quite an area where I would be saving money.
I agree, spending money that should not have been spent is a waste, but saving a few pennies to purchase something similar but not identical to proven good quality parts (just have a look at the stickies. Many headers tried and tested by various people and most end up with Dyno Don's or Hooker 2055's) is saving on the wrong end.

The hedman parts look nice, and I definately will not claim they're bad quality. Too many people using them to make it a bad product, but I too am a bit worried about the thin header flange, and ball and socket is great, but only if it's an exact fit.

Ensuring a proper fit of the ball and flange can be done by dry-fitting them with something like blueprint to verify an airtight fit.

As for soaking the header gaskets, it will certainly make them more malleable compared to fitting them as-is. Never tried it myself though. Many aftermarket gaskets like the Fel-Pro ones have a metal core. I would prefer fitting them as described in the included instructions, using RTV silicone or similar in an attempt to hold off oxidation of the flange/gasket area as long as possible.

rbjones

True, we agree. A few years ago there was discussion on this site about brands of headers I don't remember and can't find now. Once comment was that their Y-pipe was "a work of art, far superior," and now I can't find it. They didn't cost much more than the Hedmans but now they're apparently unavailable--rats.
I bought a set of Hookers once, had them delivered to my work place where there were a bunch of women. When this big box with the name Hooker in big red letters showed up, they all thought I'd bought an inflatable doll. Anyway, this is the first time I've tried ball and socket joints--I'll install them as instructed and monkey with them as required, expecting to learn.
Hedman included a set of their own brand gaskets with ports matched to the headers, sort of a thick tar paper stuff with a metal backing. They say to use a copper spray sealant so I'll get some. I think the recommendation to soak gaskets is for those thick, soft ones--these don't look like they'd absord water very well.
If the whole thing is a failure, I'll rip them out when I replace the motor and get some thick flange, ceramic coated ones and be done with it.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

the only better alternative to the $600+ hookers, is Dyno Don's 1 3/4" headers with the Y pipe he sells, even makes one for dual cats.. all mandrel

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

My Dyno Don headers will be here today! I can post pics if you all like.

But I digress, headers like anything, is a "get what you pay for" kinda thing. Sure the hedman's will get you by and probably work like they should, but I bet they will require much more maintenance than my Dyno Don headers (painting, header gasket replacement, loose bolts, etc). No worries about coating, poor fitment, header flange thinkness, or Y-pipe quality with the Dyno Don stuff. As we say in the Marine Corps, they are a "fire and forget" system.

rbjones

Excellent--Have you checked out the stainless headers on the other thread "Ebay long tubes?" Polished stainless, they look really nice, apparently a copy of some well known expensive design. If people say they fit well they might be my upgrade. I would like to see pics of those Dyno Don headers. As we said in the Army, "FTA."

rbjones

Finally got all the Hedman corporate shipping paint off these 68470's and Y-pipe--that stuff must be a combination of creosote, road oil and cosmoline. I used aircraft stripper--what a mess. The headers look much better without the paint: nice bends, nice welds--the 1/4" flanges are just like all the other headers I've used over the years, will require attention to the bolts over a few heat cycles until they seat.
Autozone was out of Rustoleum high temp heat (2000 degrees), used VHT brand instead. It looks OK but not as even as the Rustoleum. We'll see how it cures Saturday.
supr_fly03: did you get your Dyno Dons? Pics?

92rs85berlintta

iTrader: (1)

I just noticed the price has dropped on the y-pipe for the 2460 hookers now. You can get it online for 209 shipped. Thats pretty much the same price as dougs shipped making it worth it now to just get the hooker.

I will cut the end off the hooker when i get it to see if the restriction that exists on the dougs is there on the hooker as well.

rbjones

My poor car is in Limbo, passenger side header complete, driver's side incomplete while my talented exhaust buddy works out some personal problems. I wish he had his affairs better organized but, meanwhile, I can look at those beautiful black headers swooping down out of the engine compartment and imagine the increased efficiency. The stock 305 manifolds are really small units, pitiful with their AIR tubes sticking out of them--these Hedman's got to make it breathe better.
We did have to go with '79 Camaro plug wires, 90 degree boots, and do some simple fabrication for the a/c compressor and power steering pump bracket, just make a couple of spacers--no big deal. Now if my buddy can make peace with his significant other, maybe I can have it back by the weekend.

rbjones

Finally, the job is done: the Hedman headers are completely installed, every detail but the dipstick worked out and the car runs great, has a more agressive sound, too. Saturday we'll make the 300+ mile trip to Round Rock, Texas for the yearly gathering and I'll watch the mileage.
As my brother advised, I degreased the fresh header paint before I started it up to remove any fingerprints or grease spots so they wouldn't burn through the paint. I found out that Walmart brand brake cleaner is very effective--it immediately removes all traces of header paint leaving a clean, grease-free bare metal surface. Oh well.

rbjones

The Hedman header installation is finished and we took the car for a 600 mile drive yesterday, to Austin and back, for the Texas statewide thirdgen meet. No problems--the installation was definitely worth it, changing my plans to drop in a 350 currently on the motor stand. On acceleration, the headers make a deep growling performance sound low under the hood, really neat, it's a little louder out the back--and it makes better power, much more efficient feeling, from 2500 rpm up--but the really good news is the mileage. Going to Austin, 70 mph with the a/c on, it got 27.777 mpg--call it 28 mpg. Coming back in the cool evening, no a/c, windows down, going about 60 mph because of all the darn deer, it got 32.4 mpg. Even at 70 mph I think it would get 30 mpg easily.
So, was it worth the hassle and expense? Definitely, even on this dead stock 305. The 350 will remain on the stand until gas prices are reasonable--I'll check those header bolts again this afternoon, no significant loosening yet.

rbjones

Finished the job at Midland Muffler today: they cut the Y of the Y-pipe just right to make a butt weld to 3" pipe, no hidden flange inside, and made a one piece, smooth bend 3" piece all the way back to the intermediary pipe--eliminated all the 2.5" and other junk patches in there.
It runs better--took out the restriction--and it sounds better, too, with a nice little raspiness when you let off the gas that it didn't have before.
1/4" flange is no problem, a couple of header bolts needed tightening the first few heat cycles but nothing big--now they all stay tight, no leaks. I'm very pleased; this made a big improvement to the car.