Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Here's what i got so far... sorry the pics aint the best but shows you whats goin on. HOpefully this weekend the majority of the exhaust will be done and the car will be ready to run!!! I"ll get better pics then

But this is what i did. I'm running a Spohn crossmember for 700r4 with driveshaft loop on the member

I didnt want to cut the frame or member and still wanted to maintain ground clearance. I think i did an OK job so far but only can tell once the car is back on the ground on flatter ground. So far i think i have enough for my personal preferences with this car (limited street) it is lowered a bit but with the new lighter motor and the wheels/tires i'll be running the car should sit alittle higher than it used to I think

I got a 3inch collector extensions forming the Y going into a flowmaster y collector that completes the Y pipe. 3 inch inlets, 4inch outlet. Into dynatech split flow oval muffler


I wanted to do this myself so i bought a mig welder and some piping. Couple 180 degree bends, i actually only used 1 so far i think but i ordered 3. I'll need them later. I ordered a pair of hedman s xtensions for 3inch header collectors

I had to cut abit of the mid straight section out of the hedmans to shorten the length. twisted it slightly to point the end where i wanted it to go

Then the y pipe started to come along. I took the 3 inch pipe to the flowmaster y pipe as seen in the pics. I kept the driveshaft loop and went under the torque arm but over the DS loop support arm. Fits TIGHT and i'm not sure how well its gonna work but I think it will. See pics

From the y pipe its a straight shot back to the axle where i got to continue my work this saturday







Now this pic above, i made the DS loop removeable but i didnt take a pic of it. I cut the loop arm towards the front, and made a bracket that will bolt back up to the crossmember so the solid 1 piece y pipe is removeable to service the tranny/etc just by removing the DS loop. DS loop acts like a hanger too but it probly will vibrate, so i'll header wrap the bottom to clear the metal to metal contact






This is my first attempt at doing exhaust. My first time welding too so forgive my sloppy welds, i'm still getting the hang of it.

I also did this with a cutoff wheel, sawzall, and a magic marker with the car a foot off the ground if that. I dont think its too bad at all considering what i was working with

Considering the cost of materials here.... hedman extensions 30 bucks, 1 u-bend 3inch 24 bucks, 1 y collector 52 bucks, 1 slip fit connector 5 bucks. thats a full y pipe for 111 dollars!!! Mufflex wants well over 200.. and it dont fit with spohns xmember. But i did need to buy a welder haha so that adds up but its a goooood investment for me

IROCThe5.7L

I think that looks great for your first time. I just ordered a MIG welder myself yesterday. Did you weld with or without gas?

92BLKL98

Considering the close tolerances you have below the T/A and above the D/S loop I think you are going to have issues with the left pipe being bound between the loop bracket and the T/A. With the suspension movement in that area it will be noisy. Maybe you could use an oval section of tubing there to gain some clearance. Good luck with it I am interested in seeing how it turns out.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

that is a concern of mine. I"m not sure how the much the TA will move. I left alittle bit of room but i could have done better.

If it does hit, i'll consider a oval section or frame clearance piece in that section. Else i'm afraid i'll have to lose the DS loop and go with another type. Its required that i have a DS loop so its got to remain somewhere around the front u-joint


I used a gasless flux cored mig welder. it came setup for flux cored wire so i used it and its not bad but kinda messy. Not as clean and pretty as a gas mig setup.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Dang, my ISP is blocking your photos.

Is your welder set up for gas? Mine isn't, sure wish it was.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Not bad...but I think you are going to have major issues with those close tolerances...

An idea for ya. If you got two of those pieces of pipe that have the "mesh" or "expansion" material in the middle (someone help me out with the name thats illuding me right now)... you could put those up near the headers, then hard mount the y-pipe to the crossmember. Then your motor could still move around if it wants, and you can keep the y-pipe tucked nice and tight against the crossmember, and wont have to worry about it getting into something, or making a ton of racket...

But its kinda hard to see just how much room you've got going on there....

Nice work though! I know how much of a pain making a nice y-pipe for these cars is! Youve got yourself a good start and should be able to make that work.

J.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I have a single hanger holding the y pipe up ands gonna rest on the DS loop arm. I will have hangers for the muffler probly so it should be ok on the headers but i know what you mean... that flex pipe stuff. I was worried about using that as i hear its not good and burns out alot...plus i need o2 bungs near that collector since my headers dont have them


pics dont show the room but there is some there. Worst comes to worst, i will have to relocate the DS loop and do away with that long arm mount that spohn uses. Not a big deal. That way it will give me lots of room. I will try it with the DS loop in place to see if it rattlesor if the arm hits the pipe or w/e

another option is to try to make a oval or frame clearance tube from DR. Gas... could give me more room as well.

So far the setup is workable..its a great start



My welder is currently NOT setup for gas but can get it to work with gas with a conversion kit. I dont like how dirty the flux cored wire is, but it works for now

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

The driveshaft loop is something I have to do when I install the 4L60E.

skinny z

Is anybody going to pursue the terminator box idea? I figure we all wanted to get up and running however I still believe it's workable.

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking about it but my results came in pretty good so I think I will leave the exhaust alone for now.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

yes good point. Now that i have some detailed experience building my own exhaust i think it can be done with a single chamber box but it have to be large and fabbed in a way that it fits under the car as high up as possible. basically some good fab skills but i do think its doable. Just my welding ability at this time is not ready to take on that task but i could see how to do it

But you bring up the point of getting our cars running thats the biggest thing right now...once its up and running i can go back and redesign the exhaust if need be

what i need to do is dyno it with the exhaust on, take it off and dyno it with 18 inch collector extensions and see the power difference. if it is alot then i will pursue the idea

stage20

iTrader: (3)

how quiet(err loud) is that splitflow under the car?
lots of resonance, or is the sound all outside?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

didnt start the car yet, so i'm not sure i'll let you know tho. It should be running by this weekend

IROCThe5.7L

Don't forget to record the first startup.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

we'll see. Not sure how well its gonna idle with the base tune i have. after i get it idleing good, maybe then i'll record it. MAY happen today

Outlaw28

you could always loose the spohn t/a even though its really nice it is kinda bulky and gets in way and pick up a bmr track pack which would give you a lot more room for the exhaust by the crossmember

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

i ended up having low clearance to the ground but its enough for my roads and the cars purpose. I'd love ot have more clearance but its just not gonna happen withthe way i ran the pipes

Almost done with the tail pipes and tips so i'll get pics soon as i can

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

better shot of how i went thru the driveshaft loop. DS loop is fully removeable now with a custom bolt on bracket i made