Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...K8RIM&v=glance

https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...4813_-1_202326

https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...1902_-1_126744

Before I go ahead and order, will those all work together on my L03 engine?
And should the install be pretty straight forward?
Also I guess all that it would be missing would be new cats, any recommendations?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

the flowmaster catback is for a dual cat car, and also very expensive. I do not think you have dual cats so i would look into a regular one from summit.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Should I just reuse the cat that came with the car? And do the headers look good?

Thanks.

Parasoth

iTrader: (1)

No, the cat that came with the car is the most restrictive PoS we have, taking just it off and putting a test tube is worth at least 5 HP or so.
If you have over 500 to spend on Headers, and want to do it right the first time, look up 'Dyno Don' and send him a message about his headers, they kick any after market shorty heads butt, but they have AIR tubes.

Otherwise yes, the headers are probably the best besides SLP, but those are hard to find. Look up hookers cat-back system on summit or jegs, its around 300 dollars, fully mandrel bent, made for single-cat, and is REALLY worth the money, if I was not doing duals, this is the kit I want.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...29+4294838974+

Plus the Hooker headers I linked earlier.

Would that all work?

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Oh sorry, dident see your message til after I posted.

How much better would his headers be then the Hookers?
And is the cat and cat back i linked too good? Or is the Hooker cat back better?

Parasoth

iTrader: (1)

No.
The CAT is a 2.25 inlet, and 2.5 outlet, the Hooker Header collectors, and Y-Pipe are 3-inches.

As I said, try and find the Hooker Cat-Back-System, into a 3-inch Cat, into that Y-pipe and headers.

As I said, Dyno Don's headers are better than all shorties for a third-gen on the market at the moment, as they were molded off the best, and modified to be better.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


I couldent find a 3in Cat. Any links?

I think I will just get the Hooker headers. But thanks for mentioning the others. Maybe is a couple years ill look into them.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The following, direct-fit system, will fit your requirements: Hooker 2055's (Jeg's 520-2055). Catco high-flow converter (Summit CTO-9118). Hooker catback (Summit HOK-16823HKR).

JamesC

Parasoth

iTrader: (1)

Al Hasse

I don't have a link, I bought my cat (3" in/out) at my local parts store. Cat is made by Walker. IIRC I paid just under $100 for it.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Thank you. But would the Hooker headers and Y-pipe i linked to in my first post on the thread work with the cat you recommended? Or do I need to get the headers you sent?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I'm unfamiliar with the Hookers you link to, so I can't provide an adequate answer. The Hooker 2055 and its Y-pipe are highly touted on this site and generally highly regarded (I run the above system and am very content with it). Is emissions a concern?

JamesC

RocsRose86

I have the borla cat back exhaust system, comes with a high flow cat, 3in pipe, duals on one side with a muffler and straight pipe on the other side with a blocker before the tips. the tips make it look like quads. I also have heddman ceramic coated headers. I love this setup, cause at the track u can run open exhaust @ the push of a button. You can find this setup @ autopartswarehoouse.com .

Parasoth

iTrader: (1)

if the Y is a 3 inch system, then yes.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Ill just go with the Hooker 2055's then. Thanks.
----------
Ill look into it, just gotta see whats gonna be the best for my money.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

I got all the parts, im just going to take all the exhaust off and just put the new headers and y pipe on. A shop is going to put the rest of and weld it. Im almost done getting the exhaust off, im working on the cat now.

My question is, how do I get the headers off? whats the easiest way? Does anyone have a link to a guide, pictures would help a TON. My car is TBI by the way, so i like pics from that.

slow_90firebird

So what parts did you end up getting?

I plan on getting 2055's eventually too. However, I am worried about getting the old manifolds off too. I am afraid that on or more of the bolts is gonna break off in the head, and I have no experience to pull a head. So I wanna see how this works out for you.

Also, if you dont mind, when its done tell me how the 2055's fit in. I would like to know how much grinding / clearencing is required to get them to fit on an LO3

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

I dont have those headers. I got Hooker 2460-2 and the Y-pipe that goes with them. Ill tell you how it all goes. I dident get started on the headers yet. Everything was extremely rusted, so working was a lot slower then I thought. I just have to make one cut and my whole exhaust will come out, then ill start taking out the headers.

Oh yeh but heres all the stuff i bought-
Summit Racing-
HOK-16823HKR
BOR-18300
CTO-9118

Jegs-
520-16767
520-2460-2

Parasoth

iTrader: (1)

PFFFFFFT, one cut.
Don't get yer hopes up! ;D

Getting the manifolds off isn't too hard, especially if you remove your AC before hand, I haven't tried it with it in the car yet so can't give tips for that.. remember to soak them liberally in WD-40 or PB-Blaster before-hand, and right before you start wrenching.

Just remember there are clips that prevent the bolts from backing out of the manifolds, you usually have to bend little tabs that come up the side of the bolt away from it, and can be a real PITA.

Good choice on the 2460's too. Especially after finding out the collector is really barely 2" on the 2055's....

Also, I set both of my headers into the car and put 2 bolts on both sides to get clearance for my down-pipes, and so far no bending or anything required other than extra turns for getting it in there with an extension on it..

Ninja Edit: If your still looking for a step-by-step, check out a haynes or chiltons, or if you plan on keeping your Bird for a long time, pick up the GM Service Manual. But there is nothing else really besides having to get the manifolds bolts out, taking it off, take out old gasket, put in headers + new gasket, and new bolts, then check them religiously for a week or two.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Nope, not 1 cut total, I already made 2, just 1 more to go, ; )

Everyone was pushing me towards the 2055's. So im going to have to see how the 2460's work that i got, hah hah.

I cant comment on those tabs, but they sound very sucky, lol. You can barely see the headers on the car, so much crap everywhere in the engine.

And most of the bolts I was taking off were so rusted, they just broke off. And my muffler was full of like metal chips and dust..... I have no idea how i passed emissions with that, lol. But im going to soak the header bolts in WD40 for sure.

slow_90firebird

Wait how is the collector on the 2055's not even 2 inches? I thought the y-pipe was full 3" which everyone loves.

Parasoth

iTrader: (1)

Let me find the post with Dyno Dons responses about them...
Here we go:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...highlight=2055

slow_90firebird

well they gotta be doing something right. If they werent any better than stock, I am pretty sure all kinds of people wouldnt be buying them and saying how awesome they are. I mean, only so many people can say they give you power on the *** dyno.

How much is dyno don charging for his setup? It looks really nice, but I havnt seen any prices to compare to mass prodused headers. Also, I would have to custom fab the A.I.R tubes.

Parasoth

iTrader: (1)

Last I remember from a PM, it was like 450~ for the headers and 200-250 for the Y-Pipe.

Too much IMO for what I am building, but if your going for something big then they are the way to go I presume.

I am 100% sure they come with AIR tubes already on them.

Timothayyy

iTrader: (2)

Well you def cannot get to the headers easily! So I gave up, I thought that I could get them out without taking the engine out. But the spaces were way to tight and the bolts were all rusted on. So I dropped my car off at a local shop today and im going to just have them do it all. They ordered some exhaust cutouts for me, their going to put those on when they come in [So it will be easy to run open headers, or regular]