HCR13

iTrader: (5)

Will these fit a stock 87 Trans Am 305TPI? I bought these and I was looking under the hood and saw a couple of tubes and wires that led (or look like it) to the exhaust manifolds. I'd like to know if I can install these on the Trans Am before I jack it up and start diassembling the engine...If not, will it need some modification? Or should I just return them? Thanks.
(Hooker Compitition Headers HOK-2460HKR)

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

anyone?

Gramps

iTrader: (1)

i have those but mine are ceramic coated. if you have a smog pump on your car and you plan to use the smog pump after you install the headers then you have a problem. those headers do not come with extra tubes for the smog pump. if you buy the 2055's and the Y-pipe, they have the exhaust tubes comming off each pipe for your smog pump.

if you have a smog pump and plan on using it after the new headers, then return that kit and buy the 2055's (go to the hooker website and check them out for yourself) and the Y-pipe so you can bolt it right up to your cat. if you dont have a smog pump then youll be fine, all you have to do is drill a hole for the O2 sensor.

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

Awsome. My state doesn't do sniffer tests so I'm pretty good. I'll go ahead and remove the smog pump...now, where is the smog pump? Do you have any pictures of your engine bay I can "model" my installation after? What is needed to remove the smog pump (pullies, cables, computer adjustment?) Thanks for your help, besides the minor boltons and alot of interrior work, this is going to be the first "major" mod on my first F-body...

Gramps

iTrader: (1)

do a search on the boards, i dont have a smog pump, nor do i know how to remove one, but im sure that its self explanitory. there are tons of other guys on here that have removed thiers, do a search and see what you can find.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Return them and get the 2055's. The 2460's don't have a y-pipe, and won't fit the stock y-pipe. The 2055's have the best y-pipe out there for our cars. By the time you get the 2460's installed and hooked up to your exhaust, you'll have spent more than what the bolt-in 2055's cost.

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

I have a full 3in Flowmaster (previous owner) exhaust cat back. I'm going to go under there tomorrow and see if I can install them "as is", if not, I will return them...

Gramps

iTrader: (1)

not true, part number 16767, its a Y-pipe that works with the 2460's i bought it, it fits just fine and bolts up to the cat back no prob.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That y-pipe is not included in the price of the 2460HKR's, and is made as an off-road replacement for LO3 manifolds (with the 2460HKR headers), y-pipe, and cat. It's 2-1/2" from the "Y" on. Yuck! You can spend the $375 for the 2460HKR's and that y-pipe if you like, but to then modify it so it will be a proper 3" from the "Y" on will cost you many more bucks (Flowmaster "Y", 3" mandrel bend, 3" straight pipe, labor if you don't have cutting/welding equipment, etc.). The $420 for the 2055HKR's with ready-to-go y-pipe makes a lot more sense. Whether it will bolt into the rest of your exhaust depends upon the rest of your exhaust.

The harsh reality is, if the 16767HKR y-pipe bolts into your exhaust, you have a poorly performing exhaust system.

Gramps

iTrader: (1)

57kid, is there a way to get the 2055's without the smog pump tubes, thats why i had to go w/ the 2460's. i wanted the 2055's but they come with the little tubes and i dont wanna have to cut them off.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Only with the A.I.R. tubes. Many have cut them off and welded them shut. If anybody asks, just tell them that's where the temp probes went while it was on the dyno. . .

Gramps

iTrader: (1)

haha thats a good idea, i wanted to get the 2055's because of the ceramic coated ypipe too, but didnt like the little tubes, i think im gonna return em and buy the other ones. will it damage the ceramic coating if you weld up the holes?

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

Well, now I have a dilema...I don't know wether to return the ones I have now and save up for the 2055's or go ahead and get the y-pipe. Its only a 305, and I am on a tight-ish budget. I also want remove the A.I.R. system because its not "neccessary" where I live. I don't plan to do much with this engine (since I would rather get an engine swap and then upgrade to some Edelbrock or Pacesetters)...I'll have to see what my next paycheck is like...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The 2055HKR's will bolt right into your system. Neither the 2460HKR nor the 16767HKR y-pipe will. It may be "just" a 305, but the 16767HKR pipe will for sure restrict flow.

If an engine swap is on your wish list, then build to support it now. It doesn't make any sense to spend money now that will have to be spent again later. Spend it once and be done with it. (And I wouldn't recommend the Pacesetter headers.)

You should read the A.I.R. sticky. Eliminating it may not do what you want, and may do things you don't want.

I've heard that the Hooker ceramic coating is fine and I've heard it's junk. Never quite sure what to believe these days. I got my headers uncoated, ran them, modified them, and then had Jet Hot coat them. It won't "ruin" the ceramic coating to cut off the tubes and weld the holes shut, but it will kill the coating in that area. I'd recommend the uncoated/modify/coat route, both if you want to cut off the tubes, and because I think it's a good idea to bolt on the headers & y-pipe, open up the collector ball flange on the headers to match the down-pipe mate pattern, then have the headers & y-pipe coated.

In case you're thinking it, I have never said the 2055HKR's are perfect. What I have said is I think they're the best available.
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Sure would be nice if you would go back to edit your original post, select advanced, and then click on "Automatically parse links in text". That link as it is makes my screen go wide, and I have to scroll back and forth to read the posts.

If you can still edit it, that is. A mod (not me, I have no powers on this forum) may have to do it for you.

Gramps

iTrader: (1)

well 5-7 kid looks like im gonna have to return my shortys back to jegs and buy the other kit. i might lose money on it cuz of shipping but its worth it.

ResurrectingZ

I thought it was just me...

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

i've got the coated 2460's and the Hooker off-road y-yipe on my little 305.
Even though the pipes are only 2.5" they still seem like they flow very well.
My original custom y-pipe I had came off of the headers and came straight back and y'd behind the trans to a 3" pipe. I though this would flow much better than the newer Hooker Y that I just bought, but it turns out that the hooker Y which follows the stock routing flows better since the car is faster with the new y-pipe.

The only thing I don't like about the hooker y-pipe is the flange, since it is a free floating flange, it didn't sit totally flush with the flange on the headers.
I ended up bending the flange on the y-pipe and now have a slight leak on both sides. I had to double up on the aluminum collector gaskets to get it to leak less.

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

The biggest and main reason I got the 2460's is because of their price. I am planning for a new engine, but that wont be anytime soon, as I'm trying to save up to return to college, and I have a decent, but not well paying job. For the moment I'm not looking to build a supercar, just something with more pep and rice burner. As far as the A.I.R., I don't have emission's testing in my area (South Carolina) and I've searched on this site about air and the general opinion is that it "doesn't matter". I also would not mind the engine bay looking a bit "cleaner". The economic part of my plan is ironic because I still need to get a y-pipe which would have equated to the cost of the 2055's. Like I said, I'm still not 100% sure if I'm going to keep them or return them...
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P.S. five7kid and ResurrectingZ, I went ahead and just deleted the link since the "automatically parse" did not want to work. Sorry about that. I have a widescreen lap top and was not aware that it stretches the screen that much..