dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

shortie headers vs long tube

i talk the 2460s vs 2055

i know lots of people have used both... but what is better and why?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Both of those are shorties. Don't believe the pictures you may have seen on speed catalog websites.

The 2460's are bare headers with bolts, gaskets, and reducers. The 2055's are full-emissions legal shorties with A.I.R. and O2 sensor provision, the y-pipe, and the bolts & gaskets.

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

oh, well someone in another thread told someon elce that the 2055s were long tube headers.... ok well thats good to know, whats the gains vrs each other?

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

common... i got a guy building me a set of aluminum headers i he asked me if i wanted long tube or short tube.. anyone know what ones better?

Nate86

The key part is the y-pipe. The 2055s have a 3" y-pipe leading to the rest of the exhaust; the 2460 don't have a y-pipe at all. I don't think the 2460s come with A.I.R. provisions either.

I'd say go with the 2055s. Unless you know how to fab up a really good y-pipe yourself, you're probably going to spend the same amount of money (if not more) on the 2460s for a shop to make a y-pipe that is inferior to the 2055s y-pipe. Just avoid the hassle altogether and pay a bit more for piece of mind.

EDIT: And as far as long tube vs. short tube, they both have their advantages and disadvantages but generally long tube headers are considered the superior design for performance. What you really have to decide is whether the performance gain outweighs the rest of the picture (e.g. cost/difficulty of installation, ground clearance, emissions). Shorties generally maximize power in the high RPM range, while long tube headers shift the powerband in the lower RPM range. My personal opinon is shorties are good enough for most of the stock or near stock third gens, which would benefit from either design considering how terrible the stock manifolds and exhaust system are. However, if you're determined to build a weekend warrior with high horsepower (something in the range of 400+), long tubes become a more and more attractive alternative.

Fullsizewagon

Tri-y's are the best in my opinion. They can make loads of torque down low and are of no hindrance up high. Then I'd go for long tubes, same reason. I wouldn't bother with shorties. But that's just my "secondhand" opinion, I have no expertise and could be wrong. I'm sure you'll get some other opinions around here, eventually..

Wadebryant

Like Nate86 said, "they both have their advantages and disadvantages". Will the vehicle be lowered or at stock height? I went with shorties on my lowered IROC because my son also drives it. Long tubes on my lowered RS because I know how to drive it.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Hooker makes a y-pipe for the 2460's, but it's only 2-1/2" and eliminates the cat. They are also available special-order with the A.I.R. provisions.

I'd still go with the 2055's.

MrDude_1

if it was an LS1, i would put longtubes on it.
if its not a LS1, i would put a LS1 in it, then put longtubes on it.

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

Does anyone make long tube Tri Y's that can be adapted to our cars? I tried to get my friend to pick up some Tri Y's for his Mustang but couldn't find any for the fox bodies.

Jekyll & Hyde

The 2460 can be ordered with the emissions air tubes and there is a y-pipe available for them too.

Here's the skinny:
Hooker 2055. Probably one of the best headers available. 50-state legal. The best part of this header is the y-pipe. 2.5" mandrel bent, into a 3" pipe. Primaries are large 1 5/8 18g. Problems: collector gets down really small. It could be modified to flow more however. Avg price: $365.00 for the set

Hooker 2460. Initially appears to be a good header. It's more durable than a 2055 header (and heavier), however the thicker gauge primary (16g) is more restrictive. The collector is larger than the 2055, but by the time the exhaust gases reach the collector they have prolly slowed down anyway. The Y-pipe for the 2460 is 16767 ($204 @ summit). You can also fabricate one out of some mandrel bends - budget about 150.00 and a long weekend. The weight of the headers: 22lbs and the Y-Pipe is: 23lbs.

The 2460s will be quieter in the cab and in front of the exhaust tips, but that's about it.

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

yea this is all really good information guys.. thx a bunch. i think im going to go custom though. a friend of my pops could build me a set of 1 3/4 inch to a 3.5 or 3. they would be aluminum which is awsome. i jsut wanted to know whats the best out there for my car if i cant go with the custom ones. my the way.. once winter is over here in the peg, my buddie and i are goign to be building true dual for my car.. i cant wait to get it done and tell you all about it. i have a few ideas.. i bet im not the first person to try it though hahaha
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oh.. also.. im looking into getting some votec heads for my car, to go with the cam i got. now would the the headers that fit my car now fit the vortec heads? or am i screwed?

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

I've never heard of aluminum headers, sounds interesting. I have long tubes and duals with an H pipe on my Camaro now; a coulpe have done it and there're a few different ways to run them.

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

to keep cost down, il probably be doing it all myself. my buddie has a 14 bay shop about 60 miles from my place, so i got a few different options i was thinking. he has a manderal bender and aluminized piping so il probably go there for like a week strait and get it done. i have a dual cat on my car (or had) and i think im going to make a x pip where that was. whats better a H or x pipe?

yea aluminum headers... never herd of it myself until my dads friend told me about it. hes a car guy who helped me and my dad restore our 66 stang. i was asking him about different types of headers etc and he told me about aluminum. they keep the exhause cooler, dont crack and look better because you can polish them up right back to new. i herd that polished ones and ciramics crack in cars that are driven hard or have any mods done to them etc and normal metals rust like crazy. just what i herd. plus i could probably get these for about 400 canadian and since they are fully custom i have tones of options to chose from.

lneal

Everyone always says that the 2055 is lighter gauge but on Holley's website they list the 2055 as 16 guage the same as the 2460. So who is right Summits catalog or Holley's website?

PROJ91

I dont meen to burst you bubble but the aluminium will not hold up

Apeiron

You don't want to keep the exhaust cooler, you want to keep it hotter. You're going to be pretty unhappy with aluminum when it pits and corrodes. I don't know how someone could make a profit on custom headers for $400 CDN, there's a whole lot of fabrication work involved.

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

yea..i said it was a friend of mine makin it..well friend of the family.. naw you dotn like aluminum...good point.. well waht is the best to go with.. ciramic is way to expensive.. what is a realy good header material? i dont really want steel because they really look like ****.. they rust and crap really fast

Apeiron

You could use stainless steel, but it'll be expensive and will still discolor over time. Ceramic coated mild steel should be corrosion free for years.

MrDude_1

you only have two realistic choices.

steel.
or stainless steel.


if you dont want the steel ones to look like crap, get them coated...not only does it look good, but its a thermal barrier too.


your other choices, like Ti... are waaay to expensive, and hard to weld.

btw, theres a reason noone, not even unlimited budget race cars, has alum headers.....

1991ON20's

shorite vs long tube.
is there a difference in loudness?
does one give a deeper sound than another?
help a newbie out!

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

........... yes there is a huge difference.

Long tubes are louder. by far. There is more pipe, which means there is more srface area for sound to bounce around in. There is also a more direct shot for the exhaust to flow right from the cylinder. Add all those little things up and yea, LTs are louder.

But that should never ever be a reason not to get them, or to get them. It is not a big enough factor to mean anything.

Hope that helped.

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

My shorties had smaller primaries and were running through a single 2.5in muffler and were still louder than the long tubes with duals. The long tubes are more efficient and will build more power but it's a pain to run exhaust off of them. Is it worth it? Probably not unless you plan to run a simple duals setup. If not a 3in exhaust will do you just fine, make sure to buy high quality shorties and save yourself the hassle by buying the Y pipe for them.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Well there is a first time for everything I guess. I have never herd a car or a story of a shorie, single being louder than LTs and a duals....

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

yea i dunno about that either. i know what i am going to do. i found some bendy pipe, and im going to try and build my own. see how it works. im a crafty kid so il probably be able to do it, but it might look like garbage on the first try. everyone learn somewhere. anywho i bought a set of 2460s jsut so i can get my duals on and then im goign to mod my customs aroudn those. dunno how tis going to work but il send some picks when i get it done. for me its the ebst solution. they would be able to flow better then the 2460s, but il be able to keep stock look with duals and an x pipe. then im going to get a set of B&G springs that will lower 1.3 in the front and 1 inch in the back. subframe conectors, panhard bar and rear controle arms from UMI. and then the summit diff cover, crome (just for looks haha). thats if for body. the rest of the mods will be jsut motor. i already got some stuff done.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I have some UMI trailing arms, I took them off and put some Spohn ones one. The extra $ is well worth it. UMIs are kinda crappy.

1991ON20's

might seem alittle crazy but.....i ordered this exhaust cut out from jegs. ITs a 3" manual cut out....i just got this idea to just reverse the cut out and use it as my y-pipe connection.....

simply run the plumbing from the shorties into the reversed exhaust cutout. weld it up and wha-la!

U might have to do alittle more work on the plumbing but at least u have a quality weld on the y-pipe/"backwards exhaust cutout".....besides it was only 28 bucks..

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

what are you tlaking about.. the x pipe? explain

1991ON20's

take and an exhaust cutout....."its shaped like a Y"....hook that up to your shorties if u can't weld/fab up a y pipe your self.

so in other words...u have your shorties up to the block.....then u have your pipe coming off the shorties. link the 2 pipes into an exhaust cutout. (2 pipes into one). simple....if u can follow it just simply look at a cut out one day....u'll figure it out

1991CamaroRslow

iTrader: (3)

That's genious, provides a nice, open, smooth transition.

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

i might be stupid...haha still dont get it
o well