Coolhandcoop

I have a 1990 Convertible RS, just removed the 305 and replaced it with a 350 Crate Motor. I had the Exhaust cut off at the manifold. I am curious if I can run Flowmasters, dual exhaust without converters, is this possible?

Cerridius

here is my dual exhaust, doing an engine swap right now so its just hanging.

Demonic13

iTrader: (-1)

I have a 91 camaro with the 350 stock TPI. I am desperately looking for a true Dual exhause system with a possible X or H pipe set up. I know there are forms with this info probably in it but I don't have time to conduct all these long searches. Does anyone know anyone who may sell these? A website or a link well help. Or do I have to pay large amounts of money to have someone Custom make one around where I live? I am willing to spend good money on one online. Please Help. Thank you.

cronsformula350

They just did a kooks 3" dual exhaust with x-pipe in GM high tech performance magazine, go buy it, then you'll be amazed!

I'm puttin a 305TPI engine in my formula for the winter until next year when the 357 goes in, but I'm running long tubes, into my h-pipe and some kind of quieter muffler, but I'm also going to tune the headers for the motor, and get some more power till next year, then run spray or turbo it later.

Demonic13

iTrader: (-1)

I have looked and I can not find the ones your talking about. do you have a link to the info and order of the part? Thanks again for your help.

90-irocdx3

iTrader: (4)

http://www.kookscustomheaders.com/show.php?pid=929 this aint cheap if you have someone to build u exhaust it would be much cheaper. cost for kooks is $1895.99

Demonic13

iTrader: (-1)

This listing states for the 1998-2002 LS1 I have the L98 1991 I don't think this will fit.

cronsformula350

they have a nice 2.25" dual set for shorty duals for thirdgens and I made my set of duals with h pipe reducers and dual mufflers for $170 and it sounds great. I'm racing sunday in IN

the85zcamaroman

I have true duals with bullet mufflers on my 85 z28. They are kind of like sidepipes. They run along the underside of the ground effects and turn out in front of the back wheel. It is pretty loud, but that is what I wanted.

Here is a picture of the setup. I have decent ground clearance.

the85zcamaroman

I have true duals with bullet mufflers on my 85 z28. They are kind of like sidepipes. They run along the underside of the ground effects and turn out in front of the back wheel. It is pretty loud, but that is what I wanted.

Here is a picture of the setup. I have decent ground clearance.

[/quote][quote=the85zcamaroman;5109399]

SKELITOR117

iTrader: (3)

Some sweet custom setups here.

Curtisyz54

iTrader: (5)

Made it myself. it not has cutouts with bullets at the end.

SKELITOR117

iTrader: (3)

VERY nice.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Here's mine......68460 Hedman LT's with Hedman X-stensions, Jeg's 2.5" H pipe, and Pypes M80 mufflers. This is with a T5 swap car (with a one off Hawk's T56 Xmember), lowered with Intrax springs.

With just that setup, it dumped right under the front seat's rear mounts, and was deafening, but sounded good.

Added 18" 'tailpipes' to the mufflers, and could have a conversation in the car. Shortly after, tore the driver's side muffler off 3x in 2 weeks (it hung lower than the passenger) going over train tracks, a car wash underbody spray bar, and a crack in a gas station driveway. Driving down rutted black top streets, that side would scrape if I was in the ruts.

Last few pics are after I added the flex joints and tucked both sides up even higher. Now the lowest point in the whole system is higher than it was previously. This will have to do until my brother in law can teach/help me weld up some tucked SS.





Revision of the system- it snowed, so I may not get to test it until we move the day after Christmas.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Flippin' image limit!!!

Work I had to do to the slave mount for collector/slave clearance as well as heat the headers and bend the collector down/away with a jack handle and 4-5 foot prybar....

stage20

iTrader: (3)

some of those pics loooks like the muffler is DIRECTLY on the brake and fuel lines. not good as far as safety or as far as braking performance and horsepower is concerned.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

The camera angle is deceiving. There's about 1/4-3/8" gap between them currently. The car is still up in the air- I have to relocate them 'North', and wrap them. Haven't gotten to it yet. Hopefully in the next couple nights I'll have some time while adjust the rear ride height and add my Spohn Adj LCA's.

Badrs2810

You have any pics of your set up?

Badrs2810

I have hooker 2460, is there any possible, (preferably cheap), but I know how it is, to run the dual set up: straight pipes to dual mufflers right beforethe rear axle? Or any dual ideas for these headers, I don't have emissions here, so no cats... In fact, I don't even have to have a muffler, just throwing that out there, thanks

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Updated pics with the fuel/brake lines moved North. Also removed the Evap line that was capped on both ends. While I was in there, might as well of cleaned it all up.





With the 2 flex joints, the ground clearance isn't as good as I was hoping for- maybe 2-3" which is what I had before on the driver's side. Now both sides are perfectly balanced and have the same altitude. The new rear spring isolators cured the stance and eliminated the sag caused when I added my subs and amp a few years back, but didn't assist as much in the clearance dept as I'd hoped.

Haven't driven her yet due to snow/salt. I'm expecting the same issues as before. Going to see about trailering her to my inlaw's for welding 101 after we're done moving, or see if a local shop will weld up tucked sections (and clamped joints) where the flex pipe is- if I could get a good angle and tuck on it, it will only be about as low as the subframe, and not hit anything above it like the trans, crossmember, TA, fluid lines, etc.

As a side note, the flex sections really mellowed/softened the exhaust note at all but WOT compared to when it was straight pipe there.

327sleeper88

here is the start of my dual 4", no mufflers yet, just trying to get the exhaust to exit out the back...










my front and rear tires are bald as sh**, and my rear tires are a bit smaller than stock. got some 295/50's on the way, should increase the rear end height by 1"

the worst part it getting the pipes out of the tranny tunnel, but the rest of it is tight to the floorboard.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

Just finished building a 2.5" dual system with an x-pipe into two 3" powerstick chambered mufflers dumped at the axle.











This is with a T56 and a hawks double hump xmember as well as hedman longtubes and extensions.

Cheers,
Steven

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Are there any better undercarriage pics of this car? I like how it looks strait on, would like to see how it's run under the car.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

You don't have the factory crossmember though, not sure you could do that with a factory one in there.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

That looks to have fantastic clearance...

cronsformula350

Those exhaust look very nice, with a t56 you can make them that way, in the auto cars, the trans subframe and 700r4 trans tends to be in the way, and the trans pan/crossmember screws it up. Thats why hedman s-bends are so nice, lol. I have collector extensions for my LT's so that I can make up to 77 more hp on my stock engine, so instead of 220hp I can get 297hp and get about 100 more ft lb, of course this is in different parts of my torque/hp curve.

physics, says you can make 135% more power from the exhaust tuning, than you ever can with intake tuning; which means the piston going down the cylinder, sucking on the intake valve, which is how you get vacuum, lol.

NO You can't cheat and use a turbo or spray or blower, this physics rule is for N/A only!

I have a GTech SS pro, so I'm going to run my car with the exhaust with a 74% optimum length, the cars loud as hell and responsive, even with a 305, but it wasn't fast, mostyl because the wrong tune. But with 100% exhaust tuning, I'm going to try it again with the GTech SS pro, and graph it, print it out, and I'll even overlay them on top of eachother; THIS IS HOW I CAN SHOW YOU THE GAINS MYSELF!

Now magazines don't do all this work, but I'm crazy about phyiscs and tuning engines; then we'll go down the line, next step for this car is eliminating my 700r4, I used 267hp more on my 0-60 3.96 seconds w/3.27 gears, then thats in first and second, like a power glide.

In third I only used 254hp! Thats ****ed up, I had this motor on my gtech pro to 7400 stock motor, and it was still making power with my HSR, my 357 will be a neutral SFI rated and balanced to 8500RPM! And when you add spray you usually add at least
1000RPM to the motor, over n/a and raise's your trap speed, Ovbiously, but you have run spray right!

cronsformula350

These are definitelly great exhausts, for further reference, just buy the 19" 3" U-tube, cut into two 45's and you'll have a 90 left. Then weld that to you end of the mufflers; however, let me warn you, I beat two tickets for my old exhaust, with the dumps right after the mufflers, I put 1foot of extension and painted the exhaust black, now no cops bother me, they can't even tell the noise is coming from me.

Remember, our cars, are never too loud, if you park a stock harley next to any of our cars, you can't even tell the cars running, so tell the cops that, and then tell them you'll go to court and beat it. It really made me mad, they took my license both times! But when I got a $25 citation for my subaru because the stereo, they didn't give me a $175 ticket, and next year, its doubling again! SO spend some extra time and money making your car quieter, its worth it! At least as long as O'Bama's around, no offense.

cronsformula350

Hey there aren't enough cars with exhaust and subframe connectors! U should stiffen the frame before header installs, close your drivers door, does it drag? Are your iroc kick panel plastics worn? Install subframe connectors, re hang your doors so they close with no drag, THEN you can add a lot more power and get it to the ground! Just sayin

Great Job everyone with your 3Rd gens, these cars are way better than any new chevy camaro, they are great too, but why do buy a brand new car, just to take out 20,000 of what you spent it on, to put something $18,000 more to be faster, so 60grand?

I have $13 in mine to run high 12's, when with lower gears it would run high 11's, on the old setup, with lower compression with 72cc heads. Then the block cracked, I have an 88 305 TPI back in it, so in theory it really isn't devalued. Well I got the best internals, aftermarket GM block, stronger than factory, aftermarket GM, with forged parts, no cast BS! Whats gonna fail in this one? I mean what was it the low octane, or that previous owners didn't flush the coolant enough, and produced too much acid, creating a weakness in the block at that point?

WELL YOUR ONLY AS GOOD AS YOUR WEAKEST PART, like those four 11mm u joint bolts holding back 430hp lol, well the real strength is in the u joint itself, not the bolts keeping it rigid, sometimes, car stuff, really makes you wonder. Like our engines had 3 bolts for the converter, now theres 6 in LS engines, when mine was just as fast or way more so, well I bought mine for $3500.

Then I think why american stuff is defective or breaks! Not because we don't have the best material, workers and highest quality machines to make those parts, and of course he's making 105,000 running that machine press. Well he was drunk last night, my block, or head with coreshift, well he was drunk, and didn't fell quite up to it I guess...THATS WHY AMERICAN PARTS FAIL. Asians have great stuff, but aren't lazy like we americans are, so yes, I'd rather have that Asian run my american machine, why, because he isn't going to be a lazy beep! Sorry for the rambling, but 680hp for the 2011 camro with IRS that can't handle a stock motor with headers and exhaust! My friend ran high 12's with a lot of money in it, broke stock clutch twice, trans, and whole rear end, well GM covered it, and he sold that ****er! & bought a 07 vette, I wonder why lol

just because something isn't "Quite" ideal, doesn't mean you can't put a custom cam in it, and make it work right. Its Physics, do whatevers needed, to help the air get in! As fast as it can with low restrictions, then you make more hp baby!

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

I think I have about 4.5"+ at the lowest point in the system.

~Steven

AussieIROC66

Does anyone do systems in Titanium?

stage20

iTrader: (3)

you can find deals on c5z06 exhaust(titanium) but would take huge floorpan modification to fit.
anything else would be expensive, a set of headers a fortune.

aluminum is becoming popular and most pieces are readily available. id like to redo my exhaust one day, but what i have works great. there is considerable weight savings.

tntwolt

i was checking out a `88 iroc-z, it had a split exhaust, no crossover muffler, just two muffs behind bumper, first time i seen this.

daturbosix

iTrader: (2)

not sure, i did mine in gold.

tntwolt

so, does anyone know what i`m looking at? planing to buy this car once i can verify mileage

daturbosix

iTrader: (2)

heres my exhaust i just finished on my car.
just gonna paint it black i think.. thne im done under the car, and on to the topside.

Camaro'92RS

i love my flowmasters dual splits..wish i had true duals!

92RS4US

I don't have pics but imagine this...for my 89 RS I had the edelbrock tubular headers and Y-pipe to a 3" single cat. From there run a 3" pipe over the axle to a dynomax super turbo single inlet dual outlet muffler with the tailpipes finished like stock all tucked up under the car. I may do this set up for the 92 RS. Our car is a daily driver and I'm not gonna make alot of horsepower so a single system will work just fine.

kingkarny86fire

Could I get a parts list of what u used for the pipes illuse different headers maybe but I need to know what bends u used how many of each so on and so forth if u could whip that up ud be awesome thanks

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

One more to add to the list...



http://www.sdsgarage.com/Misc/Camaro/Exhaust/TDs1.jpg


2.25" "Hot rod kit" from Summit, all mandrel bent pieces. X pipe, WBo2 bung welded in the middle of the X pipe, crank case evac tubes. Pair of Hooker Aerochamber promo mufflers welded shut. I used V bands as collector flanges (not pictured).


it's being fed by custom longtubes on a built V6. Ground clearance is great with stock rear springs and 1 coil cut from the fronts.

I did take a sledge to the seat pans so the mufflers would tuck up in there as well as moved the fuel filter up to the hard line from the tank.

Badrs2810

How much did that cost, that looks nice... Have pics on the car?

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I have some but the lighting sucked, plan on getting more this weekend.


the pipe kit was $190 from Summit
X pipe was $25 from Summit
Mufflers were $16 each + some sheet metal to close them up, normally around $75 each. Found them on Ebay
V bands were $25 each on Ebay
Tips are cheap stock looking ones from the parts store, painted black.


I'd say i put around $300 into it not counting the spool of wire and the crank case evac setup.

this system weighs about 9 lbs more than my old Hooker Supercomp 3" catback and sounds way better.

MadSciienTiisT

true duals 2 1/4".. total cost was about.. $525 buckaroos. the best sounding exhaust ive ever heard on a third gen. well worth the money. 6 different lues didnt want to touch it or skips all in my area... my gf's uncle did it. all custom bending

Badrs2810

Where does that exit? I could get someone here to mimic that here... Not sure of price but I'd rather it exit out the back. Not a fan of mustangs but I'd love for my exaust to exit the rear as a mustangs does, nice and tight to the bumper... With no annoying vibration

MadSciienTiisT

it exits right in front of the rear wheels. no vibrations at all and the floors stay nice and cool, not much resonance at all inside the car.. thick walled piping was used.. took about 3 hours from start to finish. i get compliments from strangers everyday i drive it in a crowded place. the only boos i got were from a spanish family driving a beat to hell 3 colored civic

Camarodude1992

im new here so I may be in the wrong are, but what is the best way to run true duals on a. 86 Iroc thats been lowered 2 and 1/2 inches? right now I have specific fit hedman headers into a custom fabricated y pipe the current headers come done right by th starter and end ther and the other one ends at the bottom of the oil pan. I want to run true duals but am not sure if it is possible because of clearance issues and not sure which hedders would be best. My budget is 200$ and I have no problem buying used headers.

Camarodude1992

I also forgot to say I have subframe connecters and don't have emissions so no cats

itsMikey

ground clearance suffered

83RDRACR

Mine is a little more involved but nothing hangs lower than the sfc. The exhaust will exit through the rocker between the door and rear wheel well. You can see full build on the FAB forum under home brew road racer.

Recaro trans am

iTrader: (1)

Here is mine, Its since been modified. After destroying the tubular K member and flatting the collectors I bought a build your own header kit, cut and re built my headers to be much higher. Also made some tweaks on the exhaust at the merge and the fuel tank cross.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...wered-3rd.html

Ingram78

I'm using Doug's 1.75"long tube with 3"collectors and exhaust with a 3" dynomax tandem Xpipe and dynomax bullets turned down at axle. The drivers side crosses over right under the torque arm mount on tail shaft of trans(th350) and both 3"pipes go into the Xpipe and run tandem down pass side of drive shaft with plenty of room. And they sound great and have plenty of ground clearence just had to notch my crossmember. maybe soon I'll post some pics.