How do I remove the stock muffler from 92 3.1 RS?
#1
How do I remove the stock muffler from 92 3.1 RS?
Hey Everybody who has V8's,
I just bought a Flowmaster 80 series muffler from the local K & G speed shop, and I went to try and get the stock muffler off, and the **** clamps are rusted and welded and then some to the tail pipes and I pipe. How do I get the clamps off, and how would I go about putting the new one on? Is there any hangers or balancing to worry about? And is there an easier way to get the stock muffler off? Should I just cut the I-pipe clamp off and pull the stock tail pipes off and put a whole new muffler/tailpipe assembly on, or just replace the muffler and get new clamps all around. Lemme know, thanks.
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1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS
Purple w/ T-Tops
3.1 Litre 140hp/185tq V6
700-R4 Transmission
Custom Sound System
Website: http://hometown.aol.com/tuffguy610/index.html
I just bought a Flowmaster 80 series muffler from the local K & G speed shop, and I went to try and get the stock muffler off, and the **** clamps are rusted and welded and then some to the tail pipes and I pipe. How do I get the clamps off, and how would I go about putting the new one on? Is there any hangers or balancing to worry about? And is there an easier way to get the stock muffler off? Should I just cut the I-pipe clamp off and pull the stock tail pipes off and put a whole new muffler/tailpipe assembly on, or just replace the muffler and get new clamps all around. Lemme know, thanks.
------------------
1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS
Purple w/ T-Tops
3.1 Litre 140hp/185tq V6
700-R4 Transmission
Custom Sound System
Website: http://hometown.aol.com/tuffguy610/index.html
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
It's up to you. Personally I would have gotten a cat-back system. The stock pipes are junk for the most part. You could use a torch to cut the clamps off or a normal hack saw works but takes longer. The torch also warms up the pipe so you can slip the muffler off without cutting the stock intermediate pipe
#3
To just get the clamps off, you don't necessarily need a torch. I just put a socket on there, and maybe a breaker bar; just keep turning left until the nuts just snap right off.
But the bigger problem is that the pipes are rusted together, and also that the clamp has made a dimple in the pipe, which makes them difficult to take them apart.
Anyway, though, exhaust parts are generally so cheap that it's not worth messing around. Just unbolt the intermediate pipe after the catalytic converter, and hacksaw the pipe where it goes over the rear axle, then install a whole new system. The extra money in parts is well offset by all the time and hassle you'll save.
But the bigger problem is that the pipes are rusted together, and also that the clamp has made a dimple in the pipe, which makes them difficult to take them apart.
Anyway, though, exhaust parts are generally so cheap that it's not worth messing around. Just unbolt the intermediate pipe after the catalytic converter, and hacksaw the pipe where it goes over the rear axle, then install a whole new system. The extra money in parts is well offset by all the time and hassle you'll save.
#4
seems time for WD40 and a big rubber hammer
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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6
305, TBI, 700R4, P.A.W. 14x3 open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips, Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248)
Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options
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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6
305, TBI, 700R4, P.A.W. 14x3 open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips, Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248)
Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options
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