... who has them? I pulled my cat awhile back, and Im going to run a cut-out in the same spot where it was. I'm considering the "low-tech" one from Summit for $27, or the one from Exhaustcutouts.com for $65, the one from exhaustcutouts.com comes with a T-Bar type thing to open it inside the car, which would be alot better than laying down and popping the cap on the one from Summit.

Im curious about what you guys played to have them installed? I could do it myself if I had access to a welder, but I dont.

Also, if you guys have pics, post em!

-Roshambo

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-Joe
1988 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 305 TPI, 700R4, 3.23 Posi, Digital Dash, Leather Seats, Maui Blue with Silver GFX, T-tops, Tinted Glass, Gutted MAF, TB Coolant Bypass, K&N Cone Filter, No Cat, 3" exhaust from Y-pipe back, MSD Super Coil, Accel 8mm wires, L98 Aluminum Heads, Ported and Polished Plenum, Siamesed Intake, Aluminum Driveshaft, Edelbrock 3 point Strut Tower Brace

 

I had one in the same spot as you're considering. I had the super cheap 9.95 (on sale, regular is 19.99 I think) from J.C. Whitney. It had the bar and cable. It leaked horrible when closed. Sounded like I had an exhaust leak (which was exactly what it was). I welded it on myself, no leaks there.
I hit a high speed bump, and the thing broke apart. Needless to say, I don't recommend that one. I would assume any that you can close off in your car will leak some, even high quality ones. The screw off kin probably seal off better, but are more aggravating.

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1986 Black/Gold LG4 Z28
Original Owner, 215,000+ near trouble free miles.
Some Stupid Modifictions, wished it was still stock.

 

below is a link for the JCW one. it has went up in price. It is cast iron (why it boke I guess) and exhaustcutouts.com is Stainless.

www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=5199&BQ=jcw2

 

Yeah, Stainless = goooooood!

The one from exhaustcutouts.com seems like a pretty good deal, I can get an electric butterfly type, but I am not sure how long something like that would last, i mean being under the car, next to a definate high head source.. I would think the little motor would just up and quit.... the exhaustcutouts.com one is looking more and more appealing.

-Roshambo

 

um why not just get a good exaust in the first place? when its closed it would just interupt your regular flow.

 

Yeah but if your car doesn't have the open header sound at the track, you feel left out.... ........

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1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam
My GTA

The Minnesota F-body Club

 

Then just get headers and a cat-back, and put a bolt on test pipe in and remove the cat. Then it's damned loud, especially with something like a 350 :P

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1992 Camaro RS (Auto) 5.0L TBI
-
Performance mods
NOS (125 HP shot), Dynomax cat-back exhaust, Hedman headers, no cat, custom high beam delete ram air w/ K&N, MSD 6A ignition, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, LT1 camshaft
Soon to be installed:
Edelbrock Perfomer TBI intake, B & M 2200 RPM stall torque converter, Trans Go shift kit, World Products Torquer heads, Ed Wright Fast Chip

Audio
Sony Xplod CDX-M610 head unit, Pioneer 2-way 4x6 front speakers, Pioneer 3-way 6x9 rear speakers, 12 inch Pioneer VCCS PRO subwoofer, QLogic sealed box, Kicker ZR360 amplifier, Lightning Audio 1 farad capacitor

Other
Macewen White Faced Gauges/Shift overlay, A-pillar gauges (Phantom oil pressure, Air/Fuel), 180* thermostat, Window Tint, chrome valve covers, xenon headlights

 

Nah, Id just like to fix the exhaust and call it good before I do the motor swap, then you can be as loud as you want in your 350, all you'll see is my tail lights anyways!

-Roshambo

 

I have TES, gutted cat, and the Flowmaster Amer. Thunder 3" with dual 3" outlets on mine right now..... It is pretty damn loud..... But when it comes to the track, you just gotta have the open headers or you're gonna feel left out.

And Roshambo.... I hope this engine swap your thinking of is going to be big (ie bigger than that 305).... or you'll still be seein my tailights.......

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1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam
My GTA

The Minnesota F-body Club

 

Yeah, but don't they mess with how the exhaust flows through the pipes when its closed because of another place for the exhaust to wonder to?? Maybe u could have the .2 that it would give u if it wasn't there at all??

 

The other deal to think about is that people generally don't run as fast on the street as they do at the track. There are things about the track that just don't apply to a car once it is driven on the street... There are lots of things that people do to their rides at the track only (ie. remove parts, drag slicks, etc.) that allow them to shave off that extra tenth or two. It is commonplace to run the engine open header at the track and use full exhaust on the street (for obvious reasons). And one of the ways to have the best of both worlds (with the least amount of work to do the conversion to open exhaust) is to use a cutout of some sort. Yes, the cutout might cost ya a few on the street, but so what?? If running a cutout slows you down a tenth or two on the street, you are most assuredly not alone....

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1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam
My GTA

The Minnesota F-body Club

 

Heh heh, no, its smaller than the motor I have right now by a little bit.. just a little, but, thats all I am saying for now

-Roshambo

 

I think that way because when I finally get the car that I want, I want it to perform at the track the same way it would on the street, since thats usually where most races happen anyway. So there will be no slicks or crazy weight reductions for me, just a modded car mechanically not able to be detected from the exterior except for the sound.

To me if u can estimate that your 0-60 at the track is like 5.6 because u did non-streetable things to it, and its 0-60 on the street is like 6.2 or something without those things its not really worth it because its not what your car can do when u have passengers in the car or when u have a street race, but TMO.

[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited November 04, 2001).]

 

I have one installed on the intermediate pipe after the cat exiting right under the passenger-side rear seat. It's the Summit 2.5" exhaust cutout ($26.97) and it's Jet-Hot coated ($11) and cost me ($30) to have installed (that also included welding up my y-pipe, catalytic converter, and fixing the cat's hanger). It's steel, not that cast-iron crap that you see in Jegs. I love it. I can be loud or quiet..whatever suits my mood. Laying down for a few seconds to undo 3 wingnuts is not much of a sacrifice for that kind of flexibility, and later when funds allow, I can get one of those electric butterfly valves that will bolt right onto the cutout.

 

Yeah, kick *** , I just ordered the summit 3" on monday, it should be here soon. I am going to do the same thing as you man, good to hear someone is running the same thing and likes it! Im running "cat-less" so Im gonna have it installed in that area also, I would do it myself, but I dont have the welding stuff.

-Roshambo