Yeah I was also coming back through naperville, and a bitch *** naperville officer, gave me another ticket for my "loud" exhaust. I have 8.43:1 compression, and the way its tuned, runs pretty damn well, for 131K on the L98. So now with only 8172 miles that I've put on it since 02, now I'm putting tail pipes on my ****, then cops can't say a ****in thing, because I'm beating this ticket, just like the last one. A cop that doesn't know his *** from a hole in the ground, isn't going to give me a gear head, certified technician some **** about something he knows none the wiser!

 

Quick question. I see the 8th tube is removeable but how does it seal? I expect a big leak when its bolted up. Unless it expans from the heat and doesn't leak.

 

Wondering the same thing.

 

I use a light coating of permatex copper silicone High temp RTV on the slip fit tube and in the receiving end of the slip fit.
If you do it correctly it won't leak..

 

Where can i get this 4" to 3" thing for mufflex y-pipe. My buddy got the mufflex y-pipe has a almost oval shape for the exit, does the adaptor fit over this okay? can someone link me?

 

Does anyone have a fix for the passenger side header? Driver side is currently bolted in, perfect fit all the way around. Passenger side is a nightmare, I've grinded alot on the k member exactly where traxion showed it hitting, but it still seems like it won't let my header fit fluch, it wants to keep it kicked down. I had to buy a mini starter as well, just installed it tonight, have to take it back off to grind more now i guess?

 

Yes you'll have to grind on it until if clears without rubbing, and if you don't grind enough, it'll rattle when you have the car on. I was surprised how much I had to grind on it when I put my new motor mounts in. Older mounts allow the engine to sit lower, so some installs don't have any clearance issues at all.

It depends on your setup.......

 

I have an 82 Trans Am with a 350 Vortec motor with solid motor mounts and when I tried to install a set of these headers. Both sides hit the cross member and wouldn't bolt up and the passenger side one was also laying on the brake line. Is there something about the vortec heads that causes this. I had a full length set of Hedman header that would bolt up fine when I had a 2 piece rear seal motor with stock heads and they don't fit with the vortec heads either. Any suggestions before I take car and headers to the local speed shop and have them modified.

 

Guys, im in the middle of a 2055 LT swap. I had to put the shorty back in on the pass side because my starter..Anyways which starter is smaller, an LT1 starter or a mini?

 

Don't know what flywheel your using but I'm using a Mini starter that looks just like the powermaster PWM-9200. I have a 168 tooth flywheel/Staggered mount block. Lots of room with that. Don't know about the LT-1 stater though. Also I have short tubes on it now but tried the long tubes a while back and the starter/header clearance was not a problem, It was the driver side that had the fitment issues.


Mark.

 

I have an L98.

 

I have 2210s on mine, and I used a mini from summit. maybe it's because I had an 82, maybe it's something else, but an LT1 wouldn't fit. in original answer to your question, most mini starters are smaller than an LT1, but and LT1 is a good bit smaller than the normal SBC starter. you can also use the starter off of a Vortec truck from the 90s (the ones from 98 and older) some parts shops charge more for an "LT1 starter" because when they look it up, it's under "Camaro". best of luck.

 

Why wouldn't it fit? What was it hitting?

 

I'm in Afghanistan now, so my memory is fuzzy. I couldn't seem to get the starter and the header installed at the same time. it may just be that I'm an ignoramous and couldn't figure out the puzzle, but the actual size of the starter wasn't the issue, it was getting it in the same spot as the headers had to go, or rotating the headers around the starter, stuff like that. YRMV.

 

Iv cut the pass side a arm mount, and the flange over hang on the header and with stock whiskey barrow starter removed the header will actually -fall- out the bottom if you dont snag it on something. I ordered the jegs mini starter because my stock 1 wouldn't fit.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10090/10002/-1

My question is can I bolt this stater in and THEN put the header in (again, I got it bolted up only to find out that I couldn't cheat like that 1 guy who said he got it his stock starter to fit).

Or do I have to maneuver it into place? The mini will be here on Monday so I would like to know.

 

Or put the starter in last, which ever.

 

Hey,new to third gen I have a 83, building it with my son. We built a 406 small block it has dart angle plug heads.Any clearance issues with headers with angle plug heads Thanks

 

I'm using the Hooker 2210 headers with Brodix Track 1 angle plug heads and a couple of the plugs are pretty tight. Since we don't know which headers you are running it'd be hard to say, but I'm sure you will have some close ones. If you are using 2210s you will need a mini starter......

 

I ran hooker super comp long tubes as well (2210) on trickflow twisted wedge heads with angle plugs, only had a clearance issue with cylinder 1. I was able to use header wrap to fix the issue.

 

Where is the info for modifying the oil cooler? I have searched here and Google and can't find anything on it.

 

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...DWICH-ADAPTER/

Would this along with a shorter filter clear the hookers?

 

Is anyone running 3inch duals from the headers its hard for me to tell from the pictures. My Iroc is getting exhaust tomorrow and I had planned to do two 3inch lines to a "4 y with a 2nd y with a dump valve and the factory muffler setup.

He says I only have clearance for 2.5 dual so if anyone is running dual 3 without a major clearance issue factory height please let me know asap.

I feel 2.5 will be restrictive with a procharged 383

 

Are you running cats?

 

No cats the first exhaust shop ran it w/basically no clearance. I posted pics on the other thread. I'm having it redone tomorrow hopefully they do better.

 

Pics of my 2210 3" to 4" with dump vavle and factory style magnaflow

 

A few clearance pics for reference

 

Hi just bought hedmans 68460 long tubes forn84 z28 i dont know what im in for.any suggestions?

 

I have a large capacity oil pan and blow proof bell housing... I don't think there is anything I can do to get these things to fit... been trying for a week.

 

Got my headers in. I had to grind a hole in the k member to make room for the passenger side header. Drivers side was fine. I do have poly motor mounts along with a vette starter.

 

Update. After installing most of the accessories on the motor and it sitting for a while. I lost what little clearance I had. To fix this permanently I decided to drop the k member and notch it on both sides. I then had patches welded in to strengthen it back up. I also had to open up a few bolt holes on the head flanges because I couldn't get the bolts to go in. I will not be able to use a socket on some of the bolts due to the tube touching the bolt head. I had to "message" the primaries just to get the bolt to sit flush on the flange. This is my second set of super comps and both sets have been junk. They are a low quality header. I did compare the new headers to older design 2210's and they have made changes.

 

How High did ya'll have the Car up on jackstands to have enough room to point the collector down? Damn, Mine is pretty high and still don't have enough room ha. Frustrating..

 

This has got to be the worst thing I've ever done.

Couldn't get passenger header in without removing the slip-fit tube. Driver's side went right in. Couldn't get slip tube back in once headers were in. Ended up destroying my HVAC box in the process, but finally got it in after about 3 hours of fighting with it.

Now that I have it in of course, I can't get the flippin' bolts to line up on the passenger side. There just doesn't seem like there's enough thread engagement... But again, the drivers side went in flawlessly. Really frustrating. I spent about 10 hours working on these stupid things yesterday. I'm about to chuck these damn things in the scrap pile.

 

What are the headers hitting? Something if you can't get the bolt holes lined up. Starter...k member..

I just put in some dougs long tube headers over the weekend. They are darn close ti being the same as what you have. Absolute pain. Took me about 3 hours. This is in a race car with no emissions or ac. So I can just imagine how it would be tossing them in a car with all the extra stuff in the way.

 

Well, I can get all but 1 bolt in on the passenger side. I'm beginning to wonder if I tweaked something with all the crud I went through to get them in.

The other consideration is that I'm using 3/4" under head bolts, so maybe the flange is just too far away to get good engagement. With so much time being spent yesterday bent over the passenger side of the engine bay, I may have just been missing something obvious, too. I'm hoping with fresh eyes I'll be able to figure it out today. I had them bolted up fine until I put the slip-fit tube in. I disconnected it so I could weasel it around enough to get the slip-fit tube in\bolted.

Man, just thinking about it is getting me all PO'd again, haha.

 

what gasket are you using. I also have a mix of of header bolts some 6 points with smaller heads and a few allen heads the combo makes it easier to bolt / unbolts if i ever need to pull out the tranny etc I can do mine in about an hour

 

I finally got them in last night. Ended up having to use 3 longer bolts on the passenger side. Bums me out since they were black oxide instead of the stainless I had purchased for the car. If these ever come out again, I'm going to cut the flange up to allow more wiggle room. It was like there just wasn't enough spacing front to back. I'm pretty sure I munged some threads in the process with all the pressure that the flange was putting on them.

God, I hope I never have to take them out!

 

I am glad you've got them in I know mine were tough in I don't have anything in my engine Bay. Natural dougs lts but basically the same pita

 

When I took out the knock sensor and moved it to the pass side (back in the day). Everything just falls in an outta place.

My car, if you unbolt everything: (oil side stuff, plugs, bolts, starter) my LTs will literally fall out...and hit you in the face.

 

Mine will fall out on the passenger side without the starter and the slip-fit tube. Once the slip-fit tube is in though it's a nightmare.

Driver side had some trouble getting slipped in, but once I got it "finessed" through it fit perfect.

I had brand new poly mounts though. Not sure if that makes a difference at all.

 

is there need for the removable #8 tube? i have found a set online, for cheap, and they have welded the #8 my car is a full car, ac, all accessories, just not sure if the non removable tube will cause big headaches installing.

 

I couldn't get mine with the tube. Fell right in without it. Getting the tube in afterwards was a nightmare besides. The AC box was in the way. I ended up cracking mine in the process.

 

I ended buyin the headers, with the #8 tube welded. They were near perfect condition, expect for the welded tube. Anyways, like this post says, read number one, and you should have no issues. With the #8 tube welded and my car having AC, I had to hoist the engine up about as far as it can go to get the pass side in, then let down motor and bolted it to the head. Ive got a few miles on them now, and currently working on a full exhaust system. Oh, I needed mini-starter, no way the stocker was going to work for me.

 

I had lifted my engine as far up as it would go also - still hit everything. I'm guessing those without AC will have less issues, and it seems to me that there might be a difference between the early and later year boxes.

 

I am also having numerous issues with installing Dougs D3321. Basically the exact same design as the Hooker 2210. I've trimmed the A Arm on the passenger side and it still is hitting the K frame and also the #8 remove tube is resting right against the A Mount. Driver side rubs a little, but I can grind that down. i just contacted Dougs to see if there is hopefully some tips.
I checked motor mounts, frame damage...anything that could be a factor. Frame looks fine and the mounts are new (OE) and on correctly. I have a buddy who can weld so I'm having him patch some areas I've removed, but so far not too thrilled.