Its not mine unfortunately. The car belongs to Phil87Iroc. I believe I have seen him say what it was before, but I dont remember. You could search for him on the boards and either pm him or email him. Traxion has links to a couple more pictures of the underside of Phil87Iroc's car in the first post.

Ben

 

Guys - Look in my original post. All of Phil87Iroc's pictures are in there ... including the one posted again above. It's under point # 18.

Tim

 

my hooker super comps fit right in, i put them in while the motor was going in, otherwise you cant get them in or out. However, i didnt have to modify anything and i used a stock size starter. I just ground a small notch in the bellhousing to slip the bump on the starter nose through

 

Same here. Headers went in while motor went in. Didnt have to modify anything. I dont know if I could get them out if I wanted or not, havent tried. I am also using the stock starter. It was a tight fit but I put it in after the headers were in. I just bought a LT1 and figure since I wont be doing anything with it for a while I may stick the starter on this motor for now anyway just so it is further away from the hot headers.

Ben

 

OK guys sorry to grind this subject in to the ground..But i have 2 more questions..I already have hooker shoerties on my car..My question is about the slip tube,does it have to be removed to install these headers..???I actually have extra clearance..or more than most because i have the ears of my trans ground off on both sides so im hoping for a smooth install with messing with the sliptube..And my car is lowered appoximatley so this also worries me..Any info will help guys thanks..

 

I had to remove the starter & jack up engine about 2" with the slip tube removed to get the pass side in. The drivers side went in with only removing the oil filter. The front cover of the OE starter hits the one tube, so I got a mini starter through eBay.

 

has anyone lowered thier car with this setup? Do you think an inch would be ok? Thanks.

 

Just wanted to say thanks Traxion and everyone who posted on this thread..It really helped alot getting my longtubes on.
:hail:

 

IS there any extra problems with a 5-speed?

 

Phil87Iroc
I am having the same problem with my #7 plug. I have the Dart Pro 1 aluminum heads and got the shortest plug to go with them. What do you mean by you made a shorty plug? I am gonna get header wrap to try to avoid the arcing I am now experiencing.

 

Phil actually ground down the ceramic on the plug and rethreaded the metal further down I believe. If you get ahold of him I am sure he could give you better instructions.

Ben

 

 

Mine is not lowered and has new Iroc springs all the way around. You be the judge. I do not have the mufflex y pipe but instead custom dual 2.5" exhaust, but you can see the lowest part of my exhaust there. Once I start actually driving the car I plan on taking it to the exhaust shop and having it all welded up but it doesnt scrape on my driveway even with the clams so I should be good.

Ben

 

I have the same setup. I used Taylor wires and regular plugs (ngk 5672A). On #7 I just used a Taylor Boot protector and it sits against my header. With a couple hundred miles I have had NO problems with this setup. DON"T get header wrap! It can cause the headers to crack over time.

 

I also bought the high temp boot protectors. Be careful after about a thousand miles or racing those will eventually burn through. That is what has happened to my boots (Moroso wires, 90 degree). Just check it often...I actually just noticed this last week - my car has been sitting. I would just use header wrap to wrap the header around that one spot where the plug touches not the whole primary.

 

okay the guys with the mufflex y pipe. i just got mine in the mail today and was puttin it together and wasnt sure if this is how urs came like.

 

heres another

 

i hope this isnt a screw up by mufflex.

 

this is why im postin these pics and hope u guys can help me out. thanx in advantced

 

Are you referring to the fact that they aim different directions? If so I dont believe it is a messup because the subframe is different on both sides of the car. However several of the people who have these have had to modify them to get them to fit perfect.

Ben

 

okay thanx. i asked one other guy as i was postin these and he said it was suposed to be like that. im happy becuz i didnt want to have to cut and weld to fit a mistake, ya know.

 

First of all, clean your house! Then maybe you can work on the car..

The ypipe is not supposed to be symmetric because it hugs the passenger side of the driveshaft tunnel.

 

just for being a smartass jmatlock, i cleaned my room not my house, im only 18, so far no house for myself yet.

 

this is the little pig that made the mess

 

but i have no clue why its so funny lol maybe if i turn this off.

okay i know this is off topic but just for laffs ya know.

 

Easy there chief (Timz2882). Stop crowding up this sticky post with meaningless replies. Your Y-Pipe looks absolutely fine. Here are a couple pics of mine installed:

http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/ex...ongtube/ypipe/

Tim

 

kool thanx tim. i know i was alot off topic there sorry about that.

also would it be harder to put in the aslton sfc with the y pipe right there or is there enuff room to get inthere with a mig welder and weld them in?

 

You'll want to take the y-pipe off. If you do it right then this won't be a problem. I am using a band clamp to connect the y-pipe to my catback. So, to remove the y-pipe it's as easy as undoing the header collector bolts (3 per side) and then undoing the band clamp. Bam - drops right down. You'll want the SFCs welded in really nice so removing the y-pipe should definitely be on the list of things to do during the installation of the SFCs.

Tim

 

I installed my Hooker LT's a couple years ago and can basically vouch for everything TRAXION wrote on the subject. My Slip tube hit the K-member in the same place, and I am using an LT1 start (becasue I have an LT1). Plug clearance is super with LT1 heads, since I don't have an AC box I can change plugs in about 30 minutes. Also, mine are ceramic coated, so for some reason, after only 15 minutes the headers are cool to the touch (pretty cool). I'd definately recomment some locking header bolts. I caught a few header bolts backing out on me already (but due to the 1 piece header flange I didn't have leaks...I hated the SLP 1 3/4" headers for that!)

About lowering the car, to not have MUCH trouble I'd definately get some IROC springs and ONLY cut a quarter coil off them in the front if you want the car lowered a bit! I have mine cut a half coil, but I have an LT1 with a lot of weight reduction in the front so my car sits at exactly stock height. I FEAR speed bumps, no lie. I have heard scrapingof the Y-pipe (inevitable, the Y-pipe will be a bit lower than the headers because of the tranny K-member), but i have taken out chunks of speed bumps with my ladder bar mounts (different story). Stock height is definately recommended with these headers, and at most a quater coil off the front of the IROC springs (I don't know how much to cut off the rear springs).

The headers are awesome at high RPM, my car just pulled off 362 RWHP at 6400 RPM with the TC unlocked. These headers really let the engine breathe. As for loss of torque, I can't help you there, I'm running a 3500 stall and 3.90 gears out back, so torque is relative.

 

A couple pics

 

.

 

I have the 2210-1 long tubes and ES mounts, I do have a problem with the #8 tube hitting the frame, I didn't even think to use sealer on the slip tube, I so far have yet to have a leak after 5000 miles or so. I am able to get my LT1 starter on and out without loosening the slip fit tube. For any concerns on the batt cables I routed them on the inside of the starter along the engine block and used heat sheild wire covering on them and have had no trouble with them. When the enging is around 900 rpms I get a reasonance noise from the header in contact with the frame but thats it, I had a custom exhaust made up, 2.5 inch from the collectors to a 3 inch single pipe to a single inlet flowmaster with dual 2.5 out to 3.5 inch chrome tips (truck style) on my GTA. I LOVE the way it sounds. I have no cat on the car and had it done up in stainless for 318.00 and I provided the muffler. I will not provide the name of the person who did it because it is illegal here in Iowa, sorry. My exhaust does does hang 2-3 inches off the ground so lowering it will be out of the question and if I am not carefull I will scrape the exhaust on speedbumps ect.

 

You only have 2-3 inches clearance with single exhaust. HITHERE have duals and have around 4.5 at the lowest point. It may be around 5 once HITHERE get the pipes welded instead of clamped.

Ben

 

I have ES poly mounts and I have no problems with the passenger side header touching any part of the chassis. I did however have to clearance that corner part of A-arm on the driverside and I had to mod the oil cooler but other than that, no problems. The only prob I had was modifying the mufflex y-pipe to clear the SKULTE T-56 x-member. That was a PITA! My exhaust looks like Traxion's except I'm running a cat after the 4" to 3" reducer. Then it goes over the axle into a 3" in (2) 2 1/2" out two chamber flowmaster. My question for you guys is why are you welding in a bung for the o2 into the collector instead of using the bung in the mufflex y-pipe? You pretty much have to run a heated o2 anyways so I saw no need to put it in the header and mess up it's pretty coating! Just my $.02

Oh yea, Trax, have you put the blower on it yet?

Mike

 

My mufflex Y-pipe didn't have a O2 sensor bung. Nope - no blower yet.

Tim

 

can u use a bosch O2 sensor? and if so are all them heated or do u have to know what cars came with a heated one. becuz my headers and y pipe dont have an O2 bung and sooner or later ill put one on and since u said u need a heated one. i was wounderin about that.

 

Markolc,

What exactly am I looking at on your pics. I am kinda confused

Do you have dual pipes going over the rear?

Also, how much power do you think this set up is loosing to a 3.5 or 4in setup.

One last question, how hard do you think it would be to replicate the bends in larger pipe? You know, just buy the elbows in 3.5 or 4in and follow the route the cat back goes over the axle. Would that work?

Thanks.

 

THat is WEIRD!!! My Mufflex Y-pipe has an o2 bung on each side (close to header collector). I put my heated o2 in the driverside bung and I put a short bolt with a crushable washer in the passenger side o2 bung (this side will be used for WB o2 dyno tuning). Hmmmmmm???????

Mike (1bad91Z)

 

The mufflex y-pipe is available with and without O2 sensor bungs. I got mine used and it didn't have an O2 sensor bung.

Tim

 

The PN and info for the Bosch sensor is in the first post.

Tim

 

I used the passenger side oxygen sensor from an LT1. It is a four wire, but the fourth wire is just another ground instead of the sensor having to ground only on the pipe it is screwed into. I got the connector for it actually off of a 3.1 v6.

Ben

 

oops

 

Hey Tim i got a question thats got me thinking. after the header install and sfc and y pipe and everything. Can u still use the sub frames to put a lift on or jack or jack stand? ive been lookin at ur pics and i cant really tell becuz there kinda shadowed. i just want to know so i dont have to end up using the pinch welds (which someone crushed at sometime becuz theyre idiots).

thanx. this has just been a pain in my neck, i just keep forgettin to ask.

 

I never use the SFCs as jack points so I don't know. Plus - it would depend on the type of SFC. I always jack up the car using a jack under the front engine crossmember or under the rear axle. I would imagine that there would be ZERO clearance issues if you had SFCs like the Spohn, GW, etc. that extend down the rocker panel. There might be some SFC jacking issues with SFCs like have - Alston, MAC, etc. But, I don't know.

Tim

 

I have that in 4 inch it's tight but it fits and you'll need the Flowmaster 4 inch single chamber muffler to have room in the back to make the turn with the 4 inch elbows. It's loud....

 

I just read through this whole post, and i have to say, great info. I have a real problem with the 2210 that i'm installing for a client in an 84 T/A with a pro charger. The pass side header tubes hit the engine cradle. There is no way these are going to fit in the car. I even lifted the engine out 4 inches to slip it in, and it still doesn't fit. I have pics i can Email people if you think you can help.
Tyler

 

How old are his motor mounts? I wouldnt mind seeing the pics, but dont know if I can help. My email is Momar01@insightbb.com.

 

Exactly. If the motor mounts are sagging badly then forget it. They will hit pretty good. If the frame is bent then you will run into the same things. The procharger is immaterial. The headers should still fit. Feel free to send the pics my way too timsiford@adelphia.net.

Tim

 

out of curiosity- which part number did you mufflex exhuast guys use? i am getting serious about this type of setup, and i would like to start getting part numbers and prices together.

i have the necesary tools, with the exception of a mandrel bender- so i'll need to buy the stuff for the most part pre bent (ie a system)

so what "y-pipe back" partnumber did you mufflex guys use? i want the single out pipe- i'm not a big fan of the exhuast hangin out the back thing

 

Just installed my Hooker Longtubes on Tuesday, and the only interference problems I had were brake lines. The fit by the a-arm is tight, but there IS clearance. I'm running stock motor mounts and a T56.

I've got some pics, but they're big, so I'll just link to them for those interested.

Hooker longtube pics

Now just waiting on my Mufflex y-pipe and catback :-)

Andrew Choset
88 IROC-Z
98 Tahoe LT