what's up with 6.2 rods
03-05-2002, 12:23 PM
#1
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what's up with 6.2 rods
Why do some of the top manufacturers make 6.2 rods but crank manuf. don't list there cranks using 6.2 rods ? Callies is the only one that does'nt list rod length with there specs. What gives??? Do you need a tall deck block ?
The reason I ask is I have a line on some 6.2 billet Olivers--(real cheap)
The reason I ask is I have a line on some 6.2 billet Olivers--(real cheap)
03-05-2002, 02:22 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 385ci LT1 cnc ported heads big cam
Transmission: 4L60E automatic
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Zexel posi 7.5" rear
I didn't think the cranks stroke made much difference just the pistons had to match the rods and crank. With 6.2" rods everyone kept telling me that the pin on the piston would be up in the oil ring and would wear out quicker. That is just info I got on this site. So I have backed my engine plans down to a 6" rod or maybe even standard 5.7". I also talked to Wiseco and they didn't recommend more than 6" for street use.
03-05-2002, 03:51 PM
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Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
I agree. The crank doesn't really have anything to do with the rod length. The piston does. I would not use 6.2" rods on a street engine.
03-06-2002, 07:09 AM
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why then do most crank manuf. list there cranks,for example:
350mains-3.750stroke-5.7rod
350mains-3.750stroke-6.0rod,etc,etc.
Also, what combo's use 6.2 rods ? ?
350mains-3.750stroke-5.7rod
350mains-3.750stroke-6.0rod,etc,etc.
Also, what combo's use 6.2 rods ? ?
03-06-2002, 12:38 PM
#5
LS1's use 6.125". The only time I've heard of 6.2" rods is when some magazine made some ford inline 6 rods go in a 400 chevy block. They used the 6.2" ford rods and a 327 crank to make a 350 out of a 400 block.
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03-06-2002, 05:05 PM
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Rods do make a difference on the crank
When you buy a crank it is balanced for a particular rod. only the high end cranks get into this level of workmanship. that is why some manufacturers won't bother with different cranks for different rods. If you look at callies or lunati or some of the billet crank manufacturers they will list cranks for aluminum or steel rods and how long the rods are to give the correct counterbalance so that you will not need to spend a fortune getting it balanced and adding 4 slugs of mallory. If you have ever seen a crank that was later balanced for an aluminum rod that was originally cast for a steel rod it takes almost 2lbs of welded mallory (and about $300 in labor) to get it close to balancing.
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