curtalert89

Okay guys I just completed my 1991 v6 to 350 carb swap. And I'm wanting to know how you set up your wire harness for your car.

I built mine but it has a few problems.

Won't turn over with the key so I use a push button
But also the key will not shut down the motor. So the motor still runs when the key is in the off position.

Like my key when in the "on" position sends power to the dizzy
When I turn the key off the power no longer goes to the dizzy. And when the motor is running and I have the key switch off it's still getting power.

And my alternator I don't think is wired right because it I remove the battery the motor should still run off of the alt. (that's how it did when the car was still a v6)
But it dies when I remove the negative/pos cable. And when the motor is running and I remove the red power wire from the back of the alternator the engine still runs. The alt. is a two wire plus the red battery wire. Not sure if I have it wired correctly

So if you gents could help out with how you built your harness that would be fantastic. And a painless harness is out of the question! Ha

Thanks fellow Turdgen lovers!!

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

So the dist is still getting power on the pink from another source
With engine off , key off you need to check if you have power there.
if you have it wired wrong the dist would have power from the batt all the time ( key off )

If no volts then the power must be coming from the Alt when the engine is running (or you have the OP switch connected to the dist ? )

Chevy2035

just did a 92 3.1 to 350,

All the wires coming out of your pass side fender you dont need they all go to ECM,

The wires coming out of the connector on the drivers side you need...

10gauge pink = Dist power
16gauge white= tach
16gauge gray= fuel pump- i opened all the bundled gray wire that goes to the oil pressure sender and then connected that to the purple Injector power wire
On the alternator just jumper the bottom plug wire of the plug connector to the big thick one on the back (goes to your battery) Top wire is for aftermarket gauge, The stock dash just pulls it from power to ignition wire


Ground wires black or black with white stripe, I had 3 on back of block, 1 to inner fender, and one to the motor mount. make sure you ground everything good

I used an aftermarket gauge cluster for temp / oil pressure, GPS has speed on it so i use that for now. Im going to use the cluster out Iroc for 140mph speedo.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Chevy, you will hopefully blow a fuse, but could easily burn out the pump running it direct... from an injector wire of all things

Use the stock relay and cut the dk grn wire free. Hook that to 12v IGN and you're done with the fuel pump. Id advise switching the high pressure V6/TPI pump for a low pressure TBI pump to go with your carb for better life

All other harness mods beyond the fuel pump relay wire are to clean up the engine bay of unused circuits. I wrote a detailed thread going step by step of trimming down a factory harness to just power and gauges, but apparently no one reads it

curtalert89

Okay thanks guys for all the input, but I stumbled across what I think my problem with the starting with key problem. Could it be that it's because my neutral safety switch is not hooked up. I'm still running the 700r4 tranny.