XxadgexX

Hello everyone, I'm 15, I bought my 91 rs when I was 12 when my grandpa was in the car business for $675 at an auction and brought it home and got it echecked.. Well now that I'm nearing the time to drive its time to actually start working on it..no doubt it's a clean car and perfect right now besides 140k miles and would be cooler than half the kids cars at school as it sits right now, but I gotta make it my own... Right now I'm painting it black, I stripped it down by myself and sanded it all, and my grandpa is shooting the paint(I paid for the paint and other supplies).. But as the paint job is nearing its end I'm getting real interested in the engine... My goal is to shoot for like 12.6-12.8 1/4 times.. Don't really care about hp or anything else.. Yes I know that's way to fast for a 16yr old, but by the time I pay for all the parts and we build it, I should have the experience...I will be driving it mostly daily in the summer

Here's my engine plan so far I know this just a general list but just to give u an idea
-350 preferably caprice cop car, but anyone out of junkyard will do
- 200cc heads
- .500 lift cam
- 750 cfm carb
With posi 3.73 gears
It is a 5 speed

Would that be able to come close? Would I need to change the compression? Do you prefer 3.55 or 3.73 gears?

Any input will be greatly appreciated as I'm trying to learn as much as possible.. Thirdgen has helped me learn a lot.. I'd love to hear what ur running and your engine, how you'd make it? Etc etc.. I still got lots of time and trying to do it all right the first time around.. Thanks

Atilla the Fun

Wrong combo.
Easiest way is GM 12530282 crate 350 Vortec long-block assembly, plus a Lunati 20080543 cam, Edelbrock 7516 intake manifold, pick a 750 carb, Hooker 2055 headers with Y-pipe, pick a 3" cat-back, and a Summit G2704-13 torque converter if automatic. Your 3.73:1 posi is good. Add a MSD HEI and you have a driveable, good-sounding combo that will run the number once tuned properly. It should do 20 MPG whenever you can cruise with traffic instead of blitzkrieg-ing every other car.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

not sure what "200 exhaust heads" are, but ultimately heads and camshaft are going to dictate 90% of your performance. Mid 12s is going to require some fairly good heads, most likely a good set of aftermarket heads like Trick Flows or better yet, AFRs. As for the motor itself, it really doesn't matter what car the 350 comes out of if you're going to rebuild it. I would recommend that you find one with a factory roller cam. If you're going to rebuild, look into getting a 383 stroker rotating assembly. They tend not to cost much more than stock 350 parts, and the extra displacement will be helpful for building power. It'll also let you run a little bigger cam and heads without impacting drivability.

Chances are, with a combo like that, you're going to need more than a 650 carb... probably a 700-750.

With respect to gears, it really depends on the rest of your combination. You want to select gears based on the power band of your motor, but that won't be fully determined until you pick your engine parts.

One last thing, make sure to give your transmission some love. A good rebuild with higher quality aftermarket internals, a good Trans Go shift kit, and most importantly, a new torque converter to match your motor.

XxadgexX

Thank you both.. Right straight forward to the point exactly what I wanted... It is a 5 speed so I don't need a torque converter?

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

no, but you'll probably need a better transmission. T5s aren't very strong. Some hold up to mild 350 power, some don't. Mine is holding up fine to my mid-13 second 350, but asking one to hold up to mid 12s isn't going to happen. Plan on a T56 swap.

XxadgexX

I thought I had a 700r4... So I have a T5? But that doesn't matter cuz ill need a T56, cuz it can't hold up to the engine.. Correct? We're 700r4's just 82-90 then 91-92 was T5's? And I know the MSD HEI is with the ignition cuz the motor is carb'ed but do u reccomended one? I don't know to much about that... And looking into it I think I'd rather buy like a GM TKO 500 T5 that's 500 ft/lbs rated, instead of T-56 cuz that seems like to much hassle

NagleMac

iTrader: (1)

700r4 is automatic, t5 is manual. Honestly, you're looking at around $6k just for the engine unless you want to use nitrous to meet your goals. Do you have that kind of money?

Atilla the Fun

It can be done cheap, if you can wrench and have access to good self-service salvage yards. You may need to pull the heads off several Vortec 350s to find 2 heads that don't have cracked exhaust seats, this is becoming a frequent thing as these heads age. I'm having better luck with the Vortec heads from 1 tons rather than 1/2-tons. I did a thread about this, and I've pulled a dozen heads since, more of the same. Anyway, you can find a used but still-serviceable Vortec 350 for under $ 200, rather than paying 10 times that for a new one. Best to not buy until you find one that doesn't need any machining done to it. I'm finding about 1 per month, checking 6 different yards every Saturday.
Other ways to save costs are a used carb plus a rebuild kit, likewise for the distributor, back to the salvage yards for used 3.73:1 gears and a used "posi", Chinese headers are less cost than Hookers, but the Y-pipes are so bad that you'll need a local exhaust shop to build you something more like Hooker's.
Doing it ultra-cheap like this isn't for everybody, and I'm getting too old to do it without help, but a healthy young guy of average brains can make up for no money with knowledge, patience, and friendliness.

bestracing

I agree with what you posted I just have to add a little more to this.

A roller block is the best choice because you can get a cam you can get one that has a higher lift and duration than a flat tappet and while still keeping the same valve opening overlap characteristics. Which means one mean cam when you get on it and it still is very street friendly.

Stroker motors, 377 383 388 (std, .030, .060 bore) are torque MONSTERS and will get you off the line quicker. If you have been thinking about a stroked motor, now is the time to do it!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Probably the cheapest but best bang for buck

Or find a stock l98 tpi motor and harness and do basic bolt ons and a nitrous kit

87camaroirockid

i would probably get vortec heads turbo put a t56 swap in put 3.73 or 4.10 gears in it and get a good set of headers along with a fiberglass front end and possibly fiber glass hatch total around 3-4k oh and if it dosent have a posi rear i would swap one in for the better hookup

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

You dont need a fiberglass front end, thats race only stuff. Fiberglass hood however is nice to save weight

TxTtopZ

XxadgexX
The above quote is a good general statement.
T5's arent very strong, but for the record.. I have had just as many 5.0 Stangs with WC T5's in em that will turn 12's as I have had GM F-bodys and they all lasted just fine. If you are launching hard on slicks and your powershifting, yeah, not gonna happen..They will break. But if you actually "shift" the car and know how to or "want to" keep them alive... they hold up fine for a mild street/strip car. If it's already got a T5, use it, break it have it rebuilt and dont break it for a while or do a Tremec T56 swap and be done with it.
Advise being, learn how to drive the car first and foremost. 12's are fast...especially if this is your first go round.

XxadgexX

Thanks for the help everyone... but my brothers coworker is a hoarder and has stock piles of SBC parts from blocks to all new pistons ... because his dad works at summit and they like to build Chevy's together they have like a 2000 HP Corvette.. and a 69 nova and a few more other cars and another one of my family friends is a real good mechanic and is going to help me build it... I wouldn't mind going vortec but if i bring it up to my grandpa or anyone else who knows what there talking about I get lectured about computers blah blah... but the guy should sell me all these parts cheap so I should be set... as far as transmission I might just do a rebuild kit a keep easy on it.. and put in a new rear end..until I can afford a TKO as I think the T-56 is a lot more difficult but this is the wrong thread for that

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

You dnt have to use a computer to run a vortec. They make all kinds of carb intakes for em.

XxadgexX

that's what I thought to if you carb it just get rid of the wires and they say its not as easy as that

Chad85T/A

iTrader: (1)

All you need to do is put HEI dizzy in it with a gear for a roller cam. Everything else is the same as any other SBC. Except for the vortec specific intake manifold. It will be the same as making any other SBC work with a carb in that car.