355 OR 383 Stroker
#101
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: TPIS II Supercharged w/Nitrous
Transmission: 700R4 Probuilt
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Richmond 12 Bolt
Re: 355 OR 383 Stroker
Sounds like a typical TPI problem.. unless your injectors are unplugged, it is hard to tell.
#103
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Car: 86 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker Vortec
Transmission: 700r4 Built
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: 355 OR 383 Stroker
i went from TPI to carb. and im using a RPM air gap intake with a 750 holley Double pumper
#104
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Re: 355 OR 383 Stroker
well that's dual plane. You should be able to follow the runners and see if there's a correlation between either the primaries or secondaries on your carb and/or the upper and lower plane on the intake.
I would put the car flat. Having it at a steep angle can do some wonky things wtih the floats, usually nothing noticable but its a new build and the floats may need to be adjusted, etc. So you could have fuel leaking out and leaking to the back cylinders. Weird stuff like that.
So get it off the ramps.
Also make sure your spark plug wire boots are making firm contact with the plug tips. Use some dielectric grease if you want.
Try spraying some carb cleaner in it while cranking and see if it will crank.
These things are always simple, just a matter of finding it.
Do you have all your vacuum lines attached and/or capped? Vacuum leaks will cause big issues.
What are you doing about the choke? Make sure you have it open, and dont expect a cold v8 to idle. You'll need to feather the gas for a while. Run it at 1500-2500 ish RPMs and get a decent baseline set on the carb to bring it down. Just get it running and warm. Will be much easier to work with after that.
Also make sure you're running 5-6 psi on the fuel pressure regulator. Do the squirters squirt fuel when you hit the gas hard? If not there's no gas in the carb. Again, get the car level for now to eliminate complications.
I would put the car flat. Having it at a steep angle can do some wonky things wtih the floats, usually nothing noticable but its a new build and the floats may need to be adjusted, etc. So you could have fuel leaking out and leaking to the back cylinders. Weird stuff like that.
So get it off the ramps.
Also make sure your spark plug wire boots are making firm contact with the plug tips. Use some dielectric grease if you want.
Try spraying some carb cleaner in it while cranking and see if it will crank.
These things are always simple, just a matter of finding it.
Do you have all your vacuum lines attached and/or capped? Vacuum leaks will cause big issues.
What are you doing about the choke? Make sure you have it open, and dont expect a cold v8 to idle. You'll need to feather the gas for a while. Run it at 1500-2500 ish RPMs and get a decent baseline set on the carb to bring it down. Just get it running and warm. Will be much easier to work with after that.
Also make sure you're running 5-6 psi on the fuel pressure regulator. Do the squirters squirt fuel when you hit the gas hard? If not there's no gas in the carb. Again, get the car level for now to eliminate complications.
Last edited by InfernalVortex; 09-11-2012 at 03:41 PM.
#105
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Car: 86 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker Vortec
Transmission: 700r4 Built
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: 355 OR 383 Stroker
got the car on the ground made sure all the plug wire where snapped on right checked every single one for spark they all have it the regulator is set at 6psi and the gauge confirms that but still no luck and i am getting gas we even put gas in the floats i think there called and it still wouldt start.. very frustrated at this point been trying for 2weeks to get it to run
#106
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Re: 355 OR 383 Stroker
got the car on the ground made sure all the plug wire where snapped on right checked every single one for spark they all have it the regulator is set at 6psi and the gauge confirms that but still no luck and i am getting gas we even put gas in the floats i think there called and it still wouldt start.. very frustrated at this point been trying for 2weeks to get it to run
See if it will run as you spray carb cleaner in the carb.
Double check that you've got the distributor in the right timing range. Move it around a bit. Find TDC. Put your finger over the #1 spark plug hole and have someone bump the starter over in very short bursts until you feel the piston blow your finger off the plug hole. then use something like a wooden pencil with eraser to see if you can feel the top of the piston near the plug hole. Turn the engine over by hand and get it as close as you can. Then make sure the distributor's rotor is going towards the plug boot that goes to that cylinder. Line it up exactly. A trick I use is to get some masking tape and put it on the intake (use a sharpie to draw a line where the rotor is pointing) and mark where the rotor is pointing when the piston is at 1 TDC. Then mark on the cap where the #1 plug boot is and mark it near the base of hte rotor. Move the distributor slightly counter clockwise so that where the rotor is at TDC is around .25 to .75 inches away. That should get you in the ball park.
Then check firing order again. Theres NO reason this shouldnt fire up. It's not a fuel injected car. There's not much to fail. Carb dumps gas. Distributor shoots fire in, etc.
#107
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Car: 86 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker Vortec
Transmission: 700r4 Built
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: 355 OR 383 Stroker
well figured out we wernt sapouse to tighten the valve or rocker arms down be cause the valve lash was already pre set so we might have bent a valve or something .... really can anything else go wrong for us
#109
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Car: 86 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker Vortec
Transmission: 700r4 Built
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: 355 OR 383 Stroker
stoped at the engine builder tonight and he showed me step by step how to adjust them he said after there all adjusted right then check for compression if there isnt any then see if the push rods r bent if there not then im screwed and the valves r bent
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