87SLEEPER

This is what I got so far. Tell me what you think. I'll keep the pics coming as I go. Hope to finish by May.

87SLEEPER

350 4-bolt .040 over 1-piece RMS. World Sportsman II heads w/ mild port and full rebuild

87SLEEPER

StealthRam, goodies, 30lb Bosch III's, can't see it but Lunati 30142 Flat tappet cam. Deep sump pan

87SLEEPER

Assembled short block

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Why would you run a flat tappet cam when you have a roller cam block ????
Guys pay extra just to get a roller block so they can run a superior roller cam

87SLEEPER

Assembled long block

87SLEEPER

Tear down

87SLEEPER

Interior

87SLEEPER

Question 1: Whats the best way to seperate the tranny from the motor? Can it all come out in 1 piece? How high should I get the car up?




Question 2: What is a good way to re-support the alternator bracket with the stealthram ?

87SLEEPER

I asked builder same question. He definatly knows his stuff. He swore up and down that for a weekend warrior motor a flat tappet was more than enough. I know that more rpms can be reached with a roller but I will be keeping it under 6200 almost always I'm sure. I don't plan on more that 3000 miles per year so it'll be a whaile before I wear down the lobes I guess. Holly already ran this combo so I'm pretty confident on what it is capable of. I don't mind tightening rockers everynow and then. I need something to keep m,e busy.

Mpi3008 Base Map For 355 small block Chevy, 30 lb/hr injectors, StealthRam intake, 58mm throttle body, 20 degree Holley heads, Lunati 30142 cam (235/245 @ .050, .507/.534, 112 LC), 9.5:1 compression, 43 PSI fuel pressure, 418 HP @ 5500 RPM, 422 ft/lbs @ 4700 RPM.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Nothing to do with revs
Look at your specs; 235/245
you have had to go long on duration because your lift is relatively limited with a flat tappet cam. ,
with a roller cam you could have got the same area under the curve and faster valve opening but with less duration and possibly more lift so engine would have better idle/ manners and easier to tune ( less overlap )

Your confused
It is only a flat tappet cam ; not a solid cam that needs tappets adjusting

87SLEEPER

Was a bit concerned at first so I posted here to get some feed back. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...you-think.html It made me feel a little better about going with a flat tappet and saving a couple bucks. I've had to make compromises along the way to keep within budget I guess. Couple/few hundred here and there adds up to thousands after a while. Do you think it won't work? With the added power band of the stealth ram it seems like I'll still have a lot of mid/top end to work with. Probably will sound and and perform like an older carb setup perhaps? Some pretty sick old school rides out there.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

You play catch up if you ever have to change the cam because you need to buy new flat tappet lifters
every time whereas with one set of roller lifters ( LS7 @ $130 ) you can just swap them from one cam to another
on any lobe for as long as they are sound

87SLEEPER

Once the roller 305 comes out I'll have the retainer and lifters to use from that. That was my fallback plan. I didn't want to tear my current engine apart until this one was done in case I got held up finiancially and the car ended up sitting for an extended period of time. I know its still another $285 for a cam plus misc. stuff. If the motor doesn't run well when I'm done I can always go back. Yeah its a PITA but at least it gives me an excuse to avoid doing dishes. LOL!! The car ran 15.5 stock and had only 200hp. I think I'm moving in the right even with a flat tappet. Maybe I can re-use the Lunati and build up my 305 into something stout and shove it into an s-10 or something if I have to dig into it ever in the future.


Hey I had another question. I should've caught this a long time ago but I thought 081 heads were angle plug? Or is that just 083? The world castings I have are angles for sure. Shouldn't be an issue with my Hookers I hope.

85_ZED28

Looking good! I have the same headers as you and dart angle plug heads with no issues.

87SLEEPER

yeah I just made a call this morning to set up an appointment to have them ceramic coated. I'm deleting all smog parts and cutting air tubes off and welding them up. I had a terrible time with them sealing properly though. I used the aluminium gaskets too. I was thinking I should grind down the head side of the flange and make it perfectly flat? I'm not too impressed with the aluminum gaskets though considering all the talk and price about them. My powdercoat guy just gave me a quote of $250. Is that average?

87SLEEPER

So just for fun I called Lunati tech and gave them my engine specs and asked them to select a cam for me based on what I was looking for as far as usage and driving experience. They recomended this cam http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1985
It is very close to what I have now. When I mentioned at that point what I currently had and clued him in to this discussion he said the 30142 was in his list of recommended cams and as long as I was able to get some proper tuning the cam would work well and make great power without any issues concerning vaccum or idle.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

1st off, could you edit your posts and put a space between your picture img tags so we dont have scroll coast to coast????
Also the dog needs some food, a little water and the leaves in the garage bother me, please sweep them up.
thank you. lmao

I'm soooo glad you didn't paint the motor pumkin orange. I don't know y but I hate that in these cars, it just looks silly.
I really think you should have gone with a roller cam, esp if your only driving it a few thousand miles a yr.
The flat tappet cam is ok but technology made the move in 86 and it just makes sense.
Also make sure you use a oil with enuff zink so you don't wipe out the lobes.
Looking good so far.

87SLEEPER

Still learning how to Nav the site like the pros. Sometimes I think the format here could benefit from some new tech too. I appreciate all the feed back so far regarding the cam. I know flat-tappet<roller<aftermarket block<LS<LSX big block and so on.

Just to save me some trial and error and un necessary jacking up and down, though how bout some feed back on my 2 questions I've posted earlier regarding best way to access bell housing bolts or if its just as simple to pull engine and tranny in one piece. I would prefer that cause then I will be able to paint the 700r4 too. And the alternator bracket? Should I try to get one from a TBI car? Would that bolt to the head or the block as oppased to the TPI runner?

Thanks again guys

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

The best way for me to get the trans bellhousing bolts is to drop the trans crossmember, use swivle sockets and a long extention. Easy.
All my cars are newer and use the serp belt setup so I'm no help there.

87SLEEPER

So yesterday I cut the tubes off my headers and started manually knocking the rust and ceramic paint off by hand. I brought them into work this morning and later on I'll use the guys shop next to mine to finish the job, weld them up and smooth them out before bringing them to the coaters.

-Is there a chemical process I can use to remove the paint deep in the cracks?
-Concerning the header flange. Should I sand it flush with the ports to seal better?
-What can I expect from the powdercoaters as far as thier prep work involved before they apply the final product?

87SLEEPER

-Would I need to pull the driveshaft out to get it to sag low enough?
-I'm going to be swapping to a higher stall converter too. Do I need to drain tranny fluid to do this. Should I drain fluid before I disconnect motor?

87SLEEPER

smoothed and welded now ready for ceramic.

87SLEEPER

Primed before being sent to powder coater to be media blasted and have ceramic applied. Headers used to be black. I can't decide if I want them silver or black again?

Steel Armadillo

I'm a fan of silver if you're gonna keep them clean.

87SLEEPER

Thanks for the input!! I did think the silver down bottom would accent the aluminum up top and balance it off. Is it hard to keep them clean? or can I just wipe them with some degreaser if needed?

Steel Armadillo

You know, I've never had them, but I would think that it's just like anything else on the underside of the motor, except that they would have a serious ability to burn **** onto themselves.

87SLEEPER

So headers are at the coaters. Should get them back in a week or so.

I did however get busy on the tranny bellhousing and crossmember bolts. After lower tail end some I was able to see/remove 6 bolts. How many are there. I couldn't see the top of the bell from my angle. I hope there isn't a 7th hidden somewhere.

Words of wisdom to younger mechanics. " you can never have too many swivels and extensions"........ " ever".

87SLEEPER

Got some finishing touches to new motor before picking it up this weekend hopefully. Distributor with new cap and rotor. Wires and looms. Set base timing. Mocked up throttle body.





Also ordered tried to order percy's split locks but found out that they have been discontinued. Can't imagine why? They seemed like the perfect fastener and weren't too bad price either. Settled on Stage 8 3/8x1" for SBC. Thought I read on here that all but 1 bolt would fit with 2055's. Grabbed the dead soft gaskets too.

87SLEEPER

Tore into the engine again when I got home early from work. The easy parts done now. Hooking all the fuel lines and figure what stays and what goes otta be fun. Anyone got any input. Still curious as to whats the best solution for my alternator bracket? think I got the water neck figured out. Mr.Gasket 2661. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-2661/

The hoist must have been low on hydraulic fluid because I could only get the engine 3/4 of the way out even with the car back on the ground/tires. Luckily my neighbor was out using his Bobcat so we improvized.

Fritomaster

What about the demonic pug?

Burnout91

Pug's OK, probably just a little ticked-off about the flat tappet cam idea.

87SLEEPER

32-3400 stall converter came in today and I also brought home motor from shop. Yeah its officially mine now. Headers will be in shortly. Im going to begin mocking up accessories tomorrow.

Started this link https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/alte...ml#post5217160 and got the answers to the alternator bracket I was looking for. It seems that most standard SBC alternator brackets are the same so I just going to order one and make it easy.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4017/

Steel Armadillo

Pictures mother********!!!!! lol

Got a link for that converter? I'm looking into getting a higher stall.

I'm pretty stoked to see this thing get dropped in. So cool that it's in a low mileage car too.

Sojer

Clean car wish mine is clean as yours. What u doing for the hood I was going for stock look but it don't clear the hood hsr is to tall I herd u can cut some support beams but idk I need a cowl hood

silentkillzr

iTrader: (2)

Nice build, i also build a 357

87SLEEPER

Hoods still off. I love it and it keeps with my theme of all original on the outside but big horsepower underneath. I thought clearance was only an issue with the firebirds? I'm trying to make the car into what it should've come like from the dealer.

87SLEEPER

I went to http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/ and filled out the forms with my cars info. next day he got back to me and built it to spec just for my setup. On the phone he went into a little more detail of what sets a custom converter apart from an off the shelf unit like TCI or B&M such as STR @ 2.45. I am no expert but I believe this is a torque multiplication ratio of some sort. It's what makes the converter react tighter at low RPM's and flash to 3400 quickly. Makes it more streetable than a lazier STR like 1.5 in mass produced brands. Price is nearly the same as any other 700r4 w/ lockup. A th350 w/o lockup im sure would be cheaper.



Hello Robert, and thanks for inquiring,

I recommend a custom configured converter from our "Street Edge" series
with stall math set at 3200-3400 rpm, and STR set at, or near 2.45.
This converter uses the 245mm (9.5") impeller and turbine (furnace brazed).
The 9.5" impeller is the most efficient impeller ever adapted into
performance applications. With 8 impellers and 8 stators to select from this
converter can be truly custom configured with no cutting or bending inside
the coupler. This means better launches are a guarantee, better mid range
response is guaranteed and no excess heat or loss of top end, guaranteed!

All the gains while retaining 100% of the manners needed for every day
street use!
All wear surfaces are fitted for enclosed Torrington bearings for less
drag and improved longevity in performance application. The drive hub and
spline insert of made of 4130 chrome moly steel. The lock up feature is
upgraded using the latest "high carbon" friction and anti balloon measure is
standard.

Warranted for a full two years, with our 100% money back satisfaction guarantee.
The "Street Edge" 700r4 sells for 545.00 plus shipping
Please let me know if you have other questions, or call me direct at 805-277-7305.

Andre

Sojer

Any up dates the stock alt bracket works fine and I have my fuel lines ran its not pretty

87SLEEPER

Spent a full day on the engine and bay today. First thing I tackled was inspecting and repairing the wiring harness and rerouting the wires to give a little more access behind the motor once it goes back in.

87SLEEPER

Then I spent a little time spiffing up the k-member just to keep it looking clean for a little while longer.

Before


After

87SLEEPER

oh yeah got the 9" converter in place

87SLEEPER

Next I spent a couple hourstransfering over most of the sensors from my old 305 to the new engine. My World heads had larger tappings than the oem 081's. Guess I can find some reducer bushings to make the sensors fit there. Vaccum fittings for the stealth manifild were not the same thread size either so I'll deall with that later on when I get to fuel lines. I did eventually drop the new block into the car and got mount bolts in place. Gonna tackle the bell housing tomorrow. I'm wiped and will probably take another 3 hours just cause I have to jack the car back up to get at them.

87SLEEPER

Just found this link. Thought I would post it here for reference:


Originally Posted by 85mcss
.. the Stealthram.com site has been shut down... UGH!
But there are ways

http://web.archive.org/web/200710210...com/index.html

Most of the links work

Sojer

What r u doing for the hood

87SLEEPER

http://web.archive.org/web/200710210...m.com/faq.html

Based on all the info I am reading up on it won't be an issue with a camaro. Only with firebirds. do you have your hood bolted back on? Worst case is I would go with some sort of aftermarket style or depending on cash I would buy a used RS hood an add a cowl. I don't think I'll have to though.

Sojer

it don't clear on mine but I can't get mine to fire up its all done up I get a bang every now and than but that's it the timing is on I'm getting fuel. Idk if u seen but the stock alt brack will work won't look pretty u can cut it to clean it up but u don't have to of find a carb car

Sojer

Where u stuck at I got weak spark u

87SLEEPER

Glad to see you are at the point where you are at least turning it over. Does the weak spark mean it runs? Just poorly?

I have been putting in a few hours here and there routing the harnesses and mocking up hoses and accesories to figure out what else I need. The headers are back from the ceramic coaters ( I went black) and I purchased stage 8 fasteners to holdem in. Got 1" bolts but they were too long so I cut a 1/4" off each and now they are good. I think my World heads have a bit different size larger threads for the coolant sensors so I need to get either reducer bushings or new sensors. Alternator bracket came from summit and I will needs to sand down and paint black. That and my MR. gasket water neck too. Chrome on my bay looks like SH#%.

Ordered tuning service from Solomon @ http://www.lt1pcmtuning.com/ . I have good feeling he will have this thing running pretty stout when I go to fire it up. Then I'll do some data logging and he will adjust some more. It should give me a pretty good idea on what to really mess with once I get into it myself. The last thing I want to have to do is play around with my tune for 6 mos before I can even enjoy driving it this summer.

My plan is to route the fuel lines from the engine bay back to the fuel inlet. I kinda wanna give it a try with fabbing up some of my own hard lines with flares for a real factory look. I wonder if anyone has gone through that aggrivasion with this manifold swap before? Also gonna do what ORR did with relation to the PCV valve and air breather. What about the vaccum line that goes to the canister from the throttle body? can that get vacuum from elsewhere so I don't have to run it accross the front of the motor?

I'm left with some extra electrical connectors from my smog system so I'll have to figure a way to neatly tuck and hide those somehow. I went with EGR delete but I know the World heads come equipped with that. Is this something internal or is the an external opening on the heads I have to plug up?

Here are some shots of the mock up so far:

Sojer

Kool man naw mine didn't start its to weak to set fire to the gas. Fuel lines I will pretty up l8 right nouw I just cut 1 end off and slid the hose over it I plan on cutting the hard lines where it comes from the body, shorten it so it sticks up in the back. Vac lines can be from any where I will run mine from the tb the pcv line I ran from under the plenum to the driver side I got pics and vid on my thred 300hp 305. U have more money to spend than me so mine is not as pretty as yours. I will keep the 305 and will trade in a few years for a ls1 t56 4th gen and do a LSX 454 swap dream car all black. But back to real life I went to pcmforless.com too your build is what I would have done if I hade 2k more but driff heads cam set up