357 StealthRam build
#51
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Location: Cape Coral Fl,
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Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: 357 StealthRam
Transmission: Professionally rebuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt limited slip
Re: 357 StealthRam build
Do you have any more specifics or pics about the clearance issue? This kinda scares me because I won't cut into mine and if I need another type then I'll have to get into paint. That's a whole other project for another year.
#52
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Location: Detroit, MI
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z red t-top
Engine: Nothing much
Transmission: I wish t56
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 3.27 4sale
Re: 357 StealthRam build
I feel u I don't have 400 for a hood plus 100 or so to get it painted. Its not much its like a 1/4 inch it don't clear. It the tip of the hsr right be4 the TB so u can grind down the fins and or cut the support beams I could take picks but u won't see it, its that little. And I can't find a 2 inch cowl hood used. Did u tie the frame, LCAs, panhard bar it or its all stock will u go to 3rdgen fest in chi town this year I know its a longer drive for u bout 4 hours for me
#53
Re: 357 StealthRam build
Looking good. i did a stealth ram build a while back on my 87 iroc (350 ci). my stock hood works fine. i used the holley throttle body and controlled it with the holley comander ECU. afr heads, slp headers, id have to look up the specs on the cam, i dont remember. it was a fairly agressive roller cam from comp cams. 1.6 roller rockers. i had a hard time with trying to program the ecu. i took it domn to Detroit and had it tuned at motor city speed on a chassis dyno. it turned out a some what disapointing 350 hp at the wheels. but that was with stock torque converter and my slush box of a 700r4 and a 3.27 rear gear. i have since distroyed the r4. i just got my hands on a t56, so i am hopefull that will wake the car up some more. I also think the Holley comander is rediculously complicated and is leaving some power untapped. i want to go to a self learning ECU in future. I am not high Jacking, just giving info on my experiences with a stealth ram setup. i am happy with the intake, looks sweet, and works way better than the tpi. by the way, my stock in tank fuel pump pucked out around 4000 rpm. couldn keep up, horse power nose dived and she leaned right out. had to load it up drive 2 hours back home. ordered bbk high volume replacement pump. headed back a week later to finish the tune. my car only has 55K original miles, i dont think the pump wore out, just inadequte. FYI
Last edited by MJ1; 04-08-2012 at 11:13 PM.
#54
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z red t-top
Engine: Nothing much
Transmission: I wish t56
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 3.27 4sale
Re: 357 StealthRam build
Funny I was told diff my pump will hold up to 400-450 hp but that's where u where u are at in FWHP. I'm just shoting for 300hp so stock will hold up for me. My hood didn't close I used my stock TB but its the fins on the HSR that is in the way a lot of ppl said they have to cut the hoods on IROCs
#56
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Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: 357 StealthRam
Transmission: Professionally rebuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt limited slip
Re: 357 StealthRam build
Guess thats not so bad. I wonder why evrything I've heard about hood clearance says that IROCS don't need to cut but yours did?
Got my a/c brackets and power steering hooked up this weekend. Attempting to mount alternator with Summit stamped piece but its all crooked. Maybe the steel is too cheap and flimsy. I want to make an adjustable threaded tensioner out of misc. pieces like in the billet kits. That will solve everything. Not sure where to go for diff size end fittings and threaded center piece though. I have my shopping cart on summit full right now with all of the hoses , lines and fittings I'll need to plumb the gas and emmissions. Gonna look it over for one more day before I pull the trigger.
What really sux is I went to line up my Hooker y-pipe back to the headers and it is hitting the front edge of my summit deep sump pan. Looks like I'm gonna need to do some fabrication to the exhaust before I can fire it up. That's another full days work.........sigh.
Is yours still running choppy?
Got my a/c brackets and power steering hooked up this weekend. Attempting to mount alternator with Summit stamped piece but its all crooked. Maybe the steel is too cheap and flimsy. I want to make an adjustable threaded tensioner out of misc. pieces like in the billet kits. That will solve everything. Not sure where to go for diff size end fittings and threaded center piece though. I have my shopping cart on summit full right now with all of the hoses , lines and fittings I'll need to plumb the gas and emmissions. Gonna look it over for one more day before I pull the trigger.
What really sux is I went to line up my Hooker y-pipe back to the headers and it is hitting the front edge of my summit deep sump pan. Looks like I'm gonna need to do some fabrication to the exhaust before I can fire it up. That's another full days work.........sigh.
Is yours still running choppy?
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