budget builder

iTrader: (3)

thanks man! if i need a stall that'll give me a good excuse to get a shift kit as well
I haven't checked but I don't think its the OEM rearend i think someone changed to a 4.11 or something close I'll know before I get thru.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

I finally got the engine up on the stand got it secured then used the scotch bright and it worked like a charm then I wiped the walls with a little oil. After that I turned the engine and checked the rods and caps they are labeled and are in the correct position. I also checked the main caps to make surew they are pointing to the front pistons also. I can see lube on the bearings and main caps all oil and water holes are clear. Is there any thing that I am forgetting besides checking torqu?

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

nope, just go back through and retorque everything. and you are good to go

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

I just received my double roller timing chain and cam gear and crank gear, and lifters, and waiting on my cam. I'm thinking about getting the stock oil pump rather than the HV oil pump. then:

push rods, carb, valve covers, oil pan, dizzy, all gaskets, water pump, fuel pump, headers, 2.5-2.75in pipe. am i missing something

and what i'm taking off the 305 is alt, starter, ps pump, serp. assembly,

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

you have a balancer too, correct? and if you are using a 700r4 you will need a smaller flexplate if so. i cant remember if the 305 is internal balance, if so you can use that, if not you will need a new one. which i can get you a part number for as i have my motor out also

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

balancer? and yes I have a 700r4 flexplate? yes what is the part number?

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

harmonic balancer, and ill get it for you tonight when i go out to the garage

redneckjoe

check rod side clearances with a feeler gauge. check crank endplay. id go with the HV oil pump. some people will disagree, JMO. glad its coming together for ya. im not real sure on the balancer. ive talked to many guys over the years about this. although 305s and 350s are internal balanced and use the same 3.48 stroke, some say they are balanced different. maybe someone with more experience can add to this? not trying to throw a monkey wrench in the wheel.

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

thats what i was unsure of, since the 305 is internal balance as well, then go ahead and use those parts. i would also imagine that the factory just does a neutral balance. so the balancer/ flexplate shouldnt matter. local shops here dont ask for flexplate/balancer to balance the rotating assembly, so i wouldnt worry about it. just use what you have and save your money

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

I need more info. on a few things: Balance - should I or do I have to be taking this thing back to the machine shop? or is this something that I can be checking?

and I need step by step instructions on check the rod side clearance please

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

the motor was run before, right? if so i wouldnt worry about it, and all you do is take a feeler gauge and find the biggest one you can fit in between the rods. then you loosen and retorque the rest of the rods with that feeler gauge between them. it is to reduce the drag of the components. it could be as much as a couple pounds of drag reduced, freeing up "free hp".

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

finally got my camshaft in my hand. anythin g that I need to know besides greasing and lubing the lobes and reoiling the bearings? oh and I retorqued the rods and mains last night. thx everybody

Camshaft Part12-242-2DesignationXE268H-10Duration @ 0.006268° / 280°Duration @ 0.050224° / 230°

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

make sure you pile on the paste. i went to summit this weekend and got my cam and i got the comp cams break in lube. at your local parts store, they have the lucas break in additive. ive used it in one motor and it worked fine. just make sure you continue to use it with all oil changes, as you are also using a flat tappet cam

let us know how it turns out

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

thx!!! I will try to get som pics up soon I have to get a oil pump also and an oil pan those bottom bearings haven't been oiled in a while. I thought that I had this short block for 2 years but in reality I have had this thing for 3.5 years so I have to get some oil running through it.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

ok I got a list that will hopefully get me close to being finished before the end of the month. this is the things that i found but have not bought yet.

harmonic balancer (jegs $80), melling 10550 hv oil pump(summit $73),
pushrod checker (summit $15), comp cam pushrods 7854-16 (summit $45)
oil pickup assmbly (summit $8),

thermostat, water pump, headers, distributor, timing cover, oil filter, plugs & wires, oil pan, Gaskets, front pulley, fuel pump/regulator, flex plate valve covers, pcv valve.

does anyone know for sure where I can find all of these parts for a better price than what I am finding? I know that quality parts are going to cost but it would be nice to do like i did with the heads and intake and find some of this in a “all in one kit” that would really be nice.

and when I call to order parts at like autozone and advance auto how do I order them? do I give them the make and model of what car? I don’t know if I want to strip the 305 for the PS,ALT,Flexplate or just keep it whole and sell it to see how much I can get for it. ooohhhh!!!!!!!!!!! I forgot I don’t have to worry about EMISSIONS (only 96 and up here in NC ) and I’m working with gutted Catylitic converter (doesn’t hve to function as long as its visible) so what kind of carb. would work best for me (Holly, Edel, or Demon?) And still allow the PBrakes to work and the tranny lockup? And mech. fuel pump or just a reg. question. I have the tbi fuel pump hooked up to a manual switch now so would it be better for a regulator or for a sock in the tank with rubber hose?

I know that it is alot of “?” and I do need the answers but its because I can smell the gas and rubber that I’m trying to burn thanks alot to everybody.

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

ok alot of questions, those price can be cut in half. i would personally reuse what you can though, you can get maybe... MAYBE $150 tops for that motor. look at what you will have in the flywheel/balancer. summit racing makes their brand oil pump thats most likely made by someone like melling. i think they are like $25.

for the carb, i would look at a holley 650, i would personally opt towards one with mechanical secondaries.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

150 tops for motor ok then i will use what I can off of it the: harmonic balancer, flex plate (if it will work), PS pump, Alt, plug wires, oil pan, crank pulley, I'll have to check to see if valve covers will work, and that will darn near cut my list in half.

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

vortec heads take centerbolt valve covers, i got mine from summit, the valve covers were $42, bolts, $12 and 2 breathers $12

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

thanks a bunch this makes my build a whole lot less expensive and still gets the job done.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

I forgot something lets talk distributor and carb I found a double pumper Holly with mechanical secondaries couldn't find the price though oh and headers and this will be the end of the big items that have to be bought? I found this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-4150-...sories&vxp=mtr

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

yes, that is what you want. and headers, im running hedman long tubes, but you will need a custom exhaust. or you could go with a set of hooker shorties, only problem is they are really expensive, almost $500 for a set. i would personally go with long tubes and weld up your own exhaust. you will be MUCH happier with the end result

distributor, just run a jegs hei, they are like $100 and have a built in coil. best/cheapest route to go unless you want to shell out $600 for an msd set up.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

I found a holley double pumper with mechanical secondaries for a good deal on ebay remanned no warranty $175 +40 shipping you think this is a good deal? and how would I connect the vacume for the power brakes?http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-0-477...e1903d&vxp=mtr

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

thats a good deal, i believe those ones still have vacuum ports on it, if not get one of these

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/...oductId=743801

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

thx

91phoenix

iTrader: (5)

I can not remember when the change was but the oil pan may not work due to oil dip stick on the other side. Check to be sure. Otherwise you have been given very good and sound advice and suggestions. Keep up the good work.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

thk you I'll double check the oil pan dipstick situation and thx everyone here has been helpful and definitely 355 sleeper he's been awesome and just an encyclopedia of knowledge thanks to everyone. ohh before I forget remember this car does not go thru emissions testing no more than looking to make sure the CAT is on the car. So when I get to the intake I'll have to ask exactly what ports need to be plugged and which ones need to stay open for basic engine operation. And the wife wants me to keep the AC and see how much to get it switched over to R134 does anyone have any idea how much I'm looking at ~approx. I'll prolly have the motor in by mid spring and the interior done by thanksgiving and paint and weatherstripping by next spring. So thanx to everyone helping and there will lots more questions.

What do you think about these http://www.ebay.com/itm/82-92-Chevy-Camaro-5-0L-5-7L-305-350-exhaust-headers-new-stainless-/310384075733?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48445523d5&vxp=mtr

or these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2460HKR/

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

the hookers would be better for performance as they are 1 and 5/8 primaries with 3 inch collectors, where as the ebay ones are 1 1/2 and 2 1/2...

but the hookers i believe you need to use their y pipe

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

ok I bought the hookers and what I'll do is get someone to fab up the y pipe if I have to and then make sure the pipe going from: the headers to the CAT and then from the CAT to the muffler is 2.5-2.75in pipe if i can. wating on ebay to see if I can get the carb. oh and the guy said that the carb does have vaccume port.

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

good deal, glad to see your build coming together. the day i get my block back from the machine shop is the day it will be built and in the car

redneckjoe

i think i have the same headers.? lol. im in the middle of moving and cant confirm the part numbers though. the fit great for me. i think they might sell a pre-fabbed y-pipe for those headers but not sure. plenty of awsome posts on here about exhausts. heres some good advice,... get the pick-up welded to your oilpump at the appropriate heigth. summit and jegs sell pre-welded oilpump assemblys. great insurance. losing oil pressure is catostrophic. the factory only presses them in and they can come loose and fall off at high rpms. ask me how i know? lol. o.k.,... some ******* balancing basics. lol. not saying its rigt by any book, just backyard stuff. assemble your pistons, rods, all rings, caps and bolts, inclunding rod bearings,... now weigh it on a diggy scale. write down the numbers on the piston tops. i usually use a bench grinder to carefully grind a small amount off the big end. basically make them all weigh the same with in a gram or 2. you can also use 2 scales if you want to balance the big and small ends of a rod. again, this is all shadetree, ******* stuff! after all,... once we splash everything with oil, the balance is different. lol. did you check your bearing clearances wth some plasti-gauge? i think its important. ive had machine shops give me the wrong bearings by accident. best of luck and keep us posted on your progress. oh,... 1 other thing, if this is an auto tranny?,...cant remember your original post at this second,...i would go with a vaccuum secondary carb. especially if its for the street. a double pumper is gonna use a ton of gas. they really like a manual tranny. JMO. i agree, an H.E.I. would work fine. there are lots of threads about going from fuel injection to carb. if tbi?,...id use a return style regulator. o.k.,... enough gabbing from me.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

hey got a question what is the best timing for the crank gear I was going to set it to 0 is this the best setting? I don't know why but the previous owner had a crank gear installed at 4 degree retard

redneckjoe

youd have to do some research on degreeing a cam. changing the cam timing can move your powerband around quit a bit. just install it at 0. i believe advancing the cam timing gives you more bottom end power and visa versa. jmo. its best to just get the correct cam the first time. theyve spent much time figuring this out. hows it coming?

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

Its coming along just fine I'm going to install the crank gear at 0 and set the timing from there and the cam I have is the: comp cam xe268h and hydro lifters,flat top pistons,upgraded vortec heads,1 5/8 headers, and looking for a good carb

redneckjoe

have you looked at the slayer carbs? i think they sell new for around $300.oo? id go with a 650-750 cfm vaccuum secondary. i like the holley based carbs, but some like the edelbrock or q-jet. my motor is very similar to your build. i think youll be happy. 268 cam is a great compromise for a street engine. over-camming is usually a rookie mistake.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

when i get home tonight I'm going to install cam gear and crank gear and timing chain and then install the GM# 10105117 head gaskets and heads. then I'm droping in the hydr flat tappet lifters that I've been soaking for four days. and I'm going to install the rocker arms and try to get the pushrods in place befor I go to bed.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

ok got the heads on and the timing chain I didnt get a chance to do the lifters or teh pushrods. I'm waiting on the oil pan so I can measure the oil pump and get it welded. Headers are on the way. I didn't get the carb. I lost that on ebay so I guess I still need a carb.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

ok everybody I'm still waiting on my oil pan so I can adjust my oil pump. I did however receive my headers. I didn't know that they did not come with the gaskets but that's ok. NOw I have a question: I did not degree this camshaft yet I know that the rocker arms have to be installed but is degreeing the cam only for RACE applications or for everyone? I told you that I am a rookie. If this is a must then I have to spend the $150 for the degree kit. which to get this right I am more than happy to do. Oh!!!! and by the way as far as carbs: Mechanical vs. Vaccume secondaries Manual vs. Electric choke ( too big and you drown your engine but too small you don't take advantage of your engine) so 650cfm it is but: Edelebrock vs. Holley vs. Carter vs. Qjet vs. Rochester? hey does anyone know if I can rent one of these dgree kits for advance auto/?

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

ok, its all coming together well.

degreeing a camshaft is for everyone, the only reason people do it, is to make damn sure the cam is what the card says. sometimes the cam can be off a couple degrees. will you benefit from it, yes. can you get by without it, yes. it all comes down to if you are willing to spend the extra $$

electric choke- set it and it will warm the car up for you
manual choke-use a cable inside the car to warm the car up
no choke- have to warm the car up yourself.

electric is the way to go for a daily driver or something like that, as for a weekend/nice day car i would go chokeless.

as far as carbs go, vacuum carbs, the secondaries come in off the engines vaccum

mechanical carbs come in mechanically, personally the way i would go, but its whatever you want.

each carb has plenty of adjustments, but the vacuum carbs are a lot cheaper. i would say a holley 650 mechanical secondaries or a edelbrock vacuum secondaries 750. edelbrocks are jetted leaner for fuel economy. either or.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

Thank u for the info

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/9913/10002/-1 found this at what looked like a deal and could not pass it up hopefully it'll turn out as good of a deal as I think it is. I also picked up a brand new hei dizzy. I still don't have my oil pan but it should be here no later than monday. as soon as it gets here I am going to get the oil pan measured up and then get the oil pump welded and fill her with oil after priming pump to get everything oiled up.

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

you will be happy with that, the electric choke kit for one is like 50 bucks, so basically 200 for a new carb is pretty good

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

Kool

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

ok a couple of things while I'm waiting on my dizzy and carb. 1. dampers- I've been doing some reading and can't figure this out more confused than ever. 6in vs. 8in dampers this motor unfortunately did out come with a damper on it when purchased. Can I use my 305tbi damper on it and it will be fine? (no racing)

2. My wife wants me to try to keep the AC I say its going to be too expensive to try to keep it. does anyone know about how much it'll cost to retro these cars for r-134?

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

ok I got my oil pump welded, got my hei dizzy and my 9913 edelbrock carb so we're good to go.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

ok i am at a place where i need to pull the 305 get the rest of the parts that i need for the 350 so i pulled the radiator then checked it to make sure that it wasn't clogged with dirt (its fine) but then i see the AC cooler and dont know how to disconnect the AC lines. I actually want to try to keep the AC so I don't want to damage it. I might not need to take it out to remove the engine but I don't want to break or damage the cooler. Is there a particular proceedure to take the AC apart? NOTE: I will be using the entire serpentine assembly on the 350. OH! I need to know, is there any bolt holes that need to drilled in the vortecs to make the serp. assembly work?

IF i don't have to remove the cooler then what is the best way to get it the cleanest possible? i would love to use the same thing that my home central AC repairman uses that stuff sprays in then foams and dissolves ddirt then you just rinse it away just like new!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You don't have to remove the AC condenser, but if you want the compressor out of the way completely without venting the system, you can take the top off of the HVAC housing and remove the entire AC system intact. It would be easier if you have someone to help you with this process (although I did do it by myself once).

A water hose and air hose should be sufficient to clean both the condenser and the evaporator.

I don't believe you need to drill/tap any holes, but I've never had a car with the serp accessory system.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

thanx if it doesnt rain i might have enuff time to spray PB Blast on all of my bolts to make sure that I don't have to with them and I will label all of my elect. connections, take out the motor mount bolts, tranny mount,and crossmember, unhook driveshaft, and take loose torque arm maybe even have it out by SUNday

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

ok got the torque arm off and the trannyy xmember and mount loose. its raining here and i have a ton of stuff to do. its slow but i'm getting it thx everybody.

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

ok maybe the last few subjects weren't that interesting but there's not alot of time from when i get off work till dark. but to add to my list of questions that already have not been answered. I took off the AC compressor from the engine because i didn't know what would happen if just took loose the lines. I guess I have to take off the throttle body so I will have a place to connect the chains for the (come along). and while I'm pulling the motor I will have to disconnect the rest of the wiring harness. This dang thing is attached everywhere I will be so glad to be rid of this (CRAP). somebody help me out let me know whether or not I'm on the right path.

is the oem intake made out of cast iron? and can I attach the come along and chain to the intake on the old engine and it holds?

budget builder

iTrader: (3)

Finally ready to pull out 305tbi I got as many of the wires out of teh way as possible I'll have to take the rest loose as I pull out. I'm using the long head bolt and a chain and come-along to pull this monster out and then strip the thing to finish the BEAST!!!!!