FireInMe17

Alright well now I know I'm going to catch hell for this, but I want to try it. I want to put a 4" crank in a 305. I have the stock 305 sitting in the garage with the V6 on its way out, but before I put the 305 in, I want to do some things to it.

Already, I plan on using 906 Vortec heads, Vortec intake manifold, 24 ilb injectors, headers, 3" American thunder exhaust, and I'm going to be running MAF.

Now, I was going to just bolt the 906's onto the 305 and use a steel shim head gasket to try and get the highest CR out of the engine using 350 heads, and the best that I can get with it using 350 heads, is 8.64:1, and well thats a little low, and I don't want the car to be sluggish, and its like wasting a perfectly good set of brand new 906 heads.

But I got to thinking today, if I put in a 4" crank in the 305 and increase the stroke from 3.48" to 4", I'm going to pick up a lot of cubic inches, and its going to make my compression work where it should be. Now the CR would be a little north of what the stock CR is for the engine, but it should still work on pump gas, and it would be a rocket. With the 3.75" bore, 4" stroke, 4.1" diameter, 0.015" thick head gaskets, 64cc combustion chambers, and 0.025" standard SBC deck height I would get 9.78:1 CR.

Also, if I would put the engine together as it sits now, the 24 ilb injectors would be way too big for it, and make it run really rich and I wouldn't be able to take full advantage of what I have.

Before I thought about this, I was going to have low compression problems, too big injector problems, too big exhaust problems, and still be stuck with a 305, and yeah don't tell me a 350 would solve my problems, I don't have a 350, I have a 305.

If I would do this, what work would need to be done to get the 305 ready for the crank swap? I want to run with the same connecting rods and pistons and keep that simple, it should be just a crank swap, but I know that machining would have to be done to get the 4" crank to turn in the 305. Anyone know how much?

I've read about this being done before, and you get somewhere between 310-325hp, and 400+ ft/ilbs of torque, and yeah I know I would blow up my 700-R4, but I don't mind getting it rebuilt to handle the power if I can make it.

What am I looking at to do this?

AlkyIROC

Do they make such a crank? I know Eagle has a 3.75" crank for 305/350 and if you want to do even more clearancing, 3.800" and 3.875".

The problem with putting such a long stroke in such a small block is the room inside. The bottom of the cylinder walls and the sides of the block need to be clearanced for the rods to go past. A small base circle cam needs to be used so that the rods don't hit the cam. The cylinders are not long enough to get a rod/piston to use that much stroke without moving the wrist pin well up into the rings.

I think by the time you're done modifying the block to accept the larger stroke, it would be cheaper to just buy a 350 block.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Might want to read this 1st
http://www.strokerengine.com/RodStroke.html

Note the comment
"You can see that putting a 4.00 crank in the 350 & 400 block is the limit of what is possible, not what is ideal".

Certainly will ; your pistons will be out the top of the block

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

You'd have to find a rod/piston combo to work with the stroke. I believe the 305 uses a 5.7" rod like the 350's? Same crank, so that gives a piston height of 1.56", leaving the piston .025" below deck surface. Standard deck is 9.025".

For a 4" stroke, using 5.7 rod, you'd need a 1.325" piston to keep it even with the deck or 1.300" to keep it at stock height, .025" below deck.

I do not know of any pistons for that application. Common stroker is 3.75" crank so they should have pistons for either 5.7" rods or 6" rods. Not many choices tho.

If you wanted to do this, it would need custom pistons and/or rods. I'd go custom pistons in order to get the rod/stroke ratio back in line, which is going to be hard to do. On a low rpm motor, it will work ok tho, but higher rpms will have ALOT of stress on the piston wrist pin end and rod bolt end.

So you cant use 4" with stock rods/pistons. Only choice is go custom or get a 335 stroker kit with 3.75 crank.

If you really are worried about compression, just mill the heads down alot and maybe even the intake manifold to match so it all lines up well. shaving down to 58cc should be possible, just watch for valve shrouding in the chamber and watch your intake alignment. That will get you near 9 to 1 and thats plenty for an iron headed motor

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

They do but all appear to be for 6" rods
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-435040006000/

Wiseco appear to be the only supplier offering a SBC 4.030 piston to suit a 4" stroke.Everyone else only has 4.125 (400ci ) pistons

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I have a friend with a 408 that uses a 4" stroke 4.030" bore. Do not know the piston he uses tho. From what I seen, .060" over, 4" stroke = 414 cubes and thats about as big as you can go with a 350 block.

1gary

I don't think there is enough room for a 4" stroker crank in a OEM block.Block wise or bore length.That is one of the main reasons behind the aftermarket blocks.

Now just for the sake of discussion say I am wrong about fitting a 4" stroke.Just for starters a custom crank is going to cost mid $1,500's.Mainly because most of those cranks are based off a 400 main bearing which is in use in the aftermarket blocks.So the price I listed is very conservative.Then custom pistons that the real street reality is spacer's on rings because of a high pin location don't do well on street vehicles.So to cut to the chase,your building a very high dollar engine intended to race only use.Look,you have to take paper builds in comic books like say Hod Rod with a grain of salt.You have to be able to read between the lines on those articles that totally ignore what it costs to end up building.

In all the yrs I have been involved in this stuff,one thing has never changed.Are there small C.I. engines that run like a burnt rabbit's butt on fire??.Certainly there are.It takes tons more money to build a giant killer and build something different.That never changed.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Plenty of off the shelf 350 main, 4" cranks available;
$600 - $2500
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P.../?Ns=Price|Asc

As you say , a mag build ; but doable
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...d/viewall.html

1gary

I am going with agreeing with the guy from Dart:

The Potential Downside
When you add Hard Blok to short-fill the water jacket, you get controversy. Jack McInnis from Dart Machinery (which sells aftermarket blocks) says it will overheat, Ted Toki from Westside (which sells parts) says it won't. It is important to understand that there are gambles and payoffs here. For a mild street engine, this works. On a radical race engine that you try to put on the street, you will run into oil cooling issues. We would add an oil temp guage to make sure oil stays below 230 degrees and run a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 to be safe.


The fallacy is the cheap stuff ant.By the time you add the Mallory metal to balance those,it ant cheap.

I will help anyone who understands what it is going to cost no matter the build is.BUT-I am not going to joy ride a thread to find the O/P finds it cost too much and backs out.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Do what Matt (mw66nova) did. Big solid flat tappet cam (238/248@.050 .480"/.500" lift), 305, 416 heads, long tubes and duals (2.5s) and a Holley 650 DP and some short gears and a loose converter. His car was light but he was still doing 12s with a 305 that was thrown together from stuff he had laying around. I bet it'd turn out cheaper than that 4.00" stroke idea would.

He daily drove it, but it wasnt the most streetable car in the world, but I bet it would still be a lot better prospect for road driving than your 4inch stroke 305, given the issues with how high into the piston rings the wrist pin will be.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

I never have understood why somepeople want to spend thousands on something just to get what they could have spent hundreds on. All in the name of being different I reckon.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Lesson learnt from to much time playing with engines.
Don't try to reinvent the wheel.Someone else with a lot more time and money than you has already done the hard work to find out what works.( or doesn't )
There are sound reasons why some theoretical combos never see the light of day

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I've heard of some really impressive ways to WASTE money and get nothing in return; this one .... is among the cream of the crop.

Ever heard the phrase "polishing turds"? Ever think about what that means?

1gary

I do think you guys are being a bit hard on this O/P.My two cents.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Anytime theres a 305 built mentioned it seems to turn abit harsh on here

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Rods and cranks can be stolen from the 4" stroke 350 CID type of engine. Not impossible, just a bit rare and expensive. However, I think pistons would be the next impossible item there. Finding 305 bore (any overbore) pistons compatible with a 4" stroke would be...non existant. Likely.

I think you've (the original poster) now seen why this isn't feasible. It'd take a bare minimum of $1000 (likely closer to $3000) to put together and engine that's in the neighborhood of 360CID or so, compared to buying the 350CID block (that you don't have -- we realize that, go ahead and buy one, and throw the 305 block in the garbage) --- then saving that additional $2000 or so and spending it on CLASSY cylinder heads, roller cam, etc.

Guest

The smaller bore means lighter pistons. That allows for "ultaralight" 4340 rods without the slightly larger capscrews, and those together with the lightest tool-steel wristpins should negate the need for Mallory metal .
If you're going to do it, go right to 3.8" bore, 0.064" over, and have your pistons made for the rings used in the '89 TTA.
Now you have 363 ci, iron block, shrouded valves, and maybe 440 HP. 400 if you cam and CR it for future boost. You might see 700 RWHP, if the block survives.
Or use the crank / rods / pistons money to buy a used LQ9, with an Ls6 intake manifold, and the Hawks headers, then sell the new Vortec heads to cover the oilpan and accessory brackets.
Now, you're over 400 real HP, with the potential for 500 RWHP without boost, and nearly double that with boost. Reliably.
Having a 363-cube "305" might get you a little glory. The thrill won't last very many weeks. It will buy your name and your car more immortality than the LQ9 swap, but that really isn't worth much, because the result will become infamous unless you do make it to 700 RWHP.
Getting there without billet main caps and all the other high end details is the only way to hold interest.

FireInMe17

Ok, so now that everyone has shot down my idea.....how can I get over 9:1 compression on my 305 with the 906 heads? I'm not buying new heads, and the 305 "vortec" heads that are available, aren't even true vortecs, so thats not an option.

And unless I can find a 350 for under $400 that doesn't need to be completely rebuilt and has as low miles on it as my 305 does, I'm not going the 350 route.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

You can't really raise your compression unless you change pistons, or mill the heads. Milling the heads will barely give you any CR, and you have to dink around with milling the intake if you mill the heads much.
I wouldn't lose sleep over that, if you keep the cam mild, you aren't giving up much HP, and you will get to keep using 87 octane Don't tell anyone you have a low CR, and nobody will know. Great for nitrous in the future

Guest

Do some flat-top pistons. Speed-Pro H534CP.
Or do a 334 stroker with KB pistons.
Either way, still need to mill the heads.

FireInMe17

No nitrous, no supercharging, no turbocharging. I find that to be an easy way out, and I'm not looking for a free meal. Anyone want to buy my 305 off of me and sell me a 350? Haha

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

My post # 4..... mill the heads down. They should be near 64cc as is, and a good milll job will take that down to near 58cc or so. Verify intake alignment as you may need to mill the intake slightly to get it to sit.

that will get you 9 to 1 compression. Thats plenty for a iron head motor.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

I hear alot of people saying they find 5.3 LSX blocks for 700$$. Am pretty sure you could get a L31 block or a "350" block for much cheaper.

From being on the board for over a year now (not nearly as long as others) and reading countless threads about "building" the 305 block up, people do seem to jump down the OP's throat. I see this as guidance though, as it is trully just wasting money. They can take it as help, or they can turn around and call them a******, either way, the OP already knew he was gonna get flamed on this

In my opinion people are being quite nice

FireInMe17

I'm putting the 305 on Craigslist, I found a 350 110 miles away, its a 96-02 350 Longblock fullsize truck replacement with 906 Vortec heads, its just the oil pan, block, heads, and valve covers, but he only wants $250 bucks.

The guy said the bus shop he worked for ordered this engine brand new to replace a blown engine in a short bus, but after the swap, the bus wouldn't pass inspection and the engine was pulled and the bus scrapped. So its got next to no miles on it, and its already assembled with 9:1 CR, and the heads I want. All I have to do is put on the flywheel, torque converter, accessories, intake and its good to go.

This will get me 300hp easy, and I'm guessing to have somewhere in the ballpark of 375-400 ft/ilbs, or if I want to pull the heads, clean it all up and possibly any nesting that could have happened since the engine sat, and use my brand new head gaskets and 906's, I could get 9.7:1CR out of it and make even more power yet.

What do you guys have to say about that?

FlippindaBird

iTrader: (10)

saw a 5.3 in my local upullit... 125 complete...

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

Told you, Believe its an L31 block, i think they went from 96-2002, 2003 LS came out for them, i could be wrong though, either way, Its a huge step up from your OP post of building a "305" lol

FireInMe17

Got any details for it?

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Id snag that and make a buck if I was you.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

And this has .... what to do with a highly risky build that REQUIRES that you tear down that nice fresh 305, throw away all those nice fresh parts, go buy all new SUPER EXPENSIVE ones (totally CUSTOM in the case of the pistons), spend NO TELLING how much on machine work, and take HOW MUCH risk of any number of things going wrong from grinding through to water, to the rods hitting the cam?

And at the end of all this, you'll have 356 CID. Wow.

Do you HONESTLY think that this ... other thing .... is somehow a better deal than paying $400 for a 350?

That's why it's a bad idea. Not so much the idea itself, as bad as it is, as that it will cost SO MUCH and deliver SO LITTLE. Then at the end, when something goes wrong, you'll realize that you've got $$$$thousands and untold hours of effort in a big pile of scrap, and NOT ONE SINGLE PIECE will be useable in anything else, and you will sit down and weep; but by then it will be too late. All those people you paid for all that other stupid stuff will all be long gone, after they laughed at you all the way to the bank while cashing your check QUICK before you figure out what a mistake you were making and woke up and changed your mind.

I'm not trying to be mean; only realistic. This is a VERY BAD plan. Not only the plan itself, but the supposed motivation (avoiding buying a motor for $400) for it. Just WRONG on every possible level.

FireInMe17

Well yeah because I have a 305 now, and I don't have a 350. And with getting another engine means that I have to get rid of the old one. With the 305 I at least have something to start with. And I don't like the idea of paying money for something when at least at the very end of it all, I still have a usable V8 that I could use, versus a hunk of ****, blown to hell 350 that I paid $400 for that doesn't run, and doesn't work.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Problem is, NOT ONE SINGLE PIECE of that 305 will work, in this .... other .... hare-brained scheme. However well it works now, you gotta take EVERY PIECE out and throw them away, then buy all this giga$$$$$$$$$$$$ custom stuff to put in it, and then when you get done, you'll have .... a 350. Except that instead of $400 in it, you'll have AT LEAST 10 times that much. And at the end of it all, you'll have a 305 block that you've ground through and hit water trying to get clearance for all that stroke, or it'll blow up and you'll be looking at $4000 MINIMUM of scrap metal. IN NO POSSIBLE UNIVERSE will you still have a running 305.

Just altogether a BAD PLAN. I'm not sure what you're not "getting" here. By all means go out and price cranks, rods, and pistons for this .... thing ...., and talk to people that have built 383s with ¼" less stroke than that and see how many of them had trouble grinding enough out of THEIR blocks.

For $400 you can buy a GOOD, RUNNING, READY TO INSTALL 350 out of a late-model truck (96-00). You can't even TOUCH the first major part of this other ... thing ... for that, let alone drive it. That's fantasy land.

LS4GXP

iTrader: (2)

So change your plan, buy a stroker kit for the 305 and make it (whatever they goto, 334? idk) and be done with it. Just dont go the route your talking because YOU have the block on hand.

The worst part of this will be you racing someone with thousands less in there motor and getting walked on all day long lol That would be the walk of shame i would say.


I dont think your getting the concept of buying a 350. Yes we all understand you have a good 305 laying around, but your not understanding the concept of why waste thousands of dollars for something that is not feasable.

Tell you what, you give me the amount of money it takes you to buy custom pistons, the crank, and estimate of machine work, And ill supply you with a Brand new 350 motor and go on a cruise with the rest of it

cIaRmOaCrZo

agreed. idk how anyone could have put it any better, or use it in any better of a scenario

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

If you can't afford the $400 to buy a 350 w/o selling your 305 1st. How are you gonna afford a 4inch stroke crank, custom pistons with offset wrist pins. small base circle cam, all the machine work to the block , etc..

sell that 305 , save your $$ to buy a good rebuilt 350. or put the 305 in as is and have a decent daily driver and be done with it. same more $$ and build a 350 down the road when you learn more and can do the build yourself.

There are a few bad *** 305's on boost out there but they are NOT cheap builds.THEY are 305's because of the cid rules for the class they run in also.THATS THE ONLY REASON.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Do whatever you want with the 305, and have fun....

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I still say just shave the heads!!! Or dont worry about it and run the compression you get. Its not gonna make a huge difference in power to have another 0.5 in compression ratio.

Guest

I would, but you're way to many miles from me.

Guest

It's driveable with a modest cam. But the Vortecs have such efficient chambers that they can take more SCR than the pre-'87 heads.

Guest

You can't be building a mild 305 if you don't know engines well enough to determine if any 350 you find is "blown to hell" ( unlikely ) or ready for another 50,000 miles with just a new set of gaskets, or somewhere in between ( probable ).

Guest

This is fine thinking. You can run regular unleaded, rather than premium. I'd stick to a cam no bigger than 262-264 advertised duration, but a 268-270 would work with more gear and a torque converter.

1gary

You know Ronnjonn-I was willing to just let it go when I saw your outlandish claims to hp,but once I saw this............................well you need to consider taking some of your own advise.Really 700rwhp-really???.Oh it must have been on page 7 of a rag magazine article.

Tell us all the g's of a ultra-lite rod.

FireInMe17

Im just sick and tired of people always talking about anything but what people ask about on this forum. Its the same thing on the V6 section of this site. Its nothing but a carefully constructed bashing for people looking to do something other than what everyone else is doing. So Im done. Go ahead and tear this one apart. Im going to do what I want with my car, my money, and not ask questions on here for my build. There's a whole plethora of other forums full of people that are actually online to help and not bash. So thanks, but no thanks. I should have known better that this would happen.

1gary

Hang in there.I said I would help if you understood the costs.It's your car as you said to do whatever you want.I just didn't want to waste both of our time when those costs in the end was going to be more than you expected.

Guest

Now you're just trolling. Not cool.
Look, getting a turbo'ed 363 cube V8 with forged guts to make 850 HP is no challenge, if you have a few dollars. $7000 should get you there with either the "305" or the LQ9. So NOT outlandish. Or are you so old you don't follow forums like ls1tech, diyturbo, jyturbo, etc?
Now, for a 363 cube "305", a set of Chinese 4340 6" rods with 3/8" ARP capscrews, profiled and bushed, can be had new for $220 / set, and 565 grams, about the same as stock 305 5.7" rods.
While I'm at it, I found some tool steel, 0.927" x 2.5" wrist pins for just under $140 per set, and a Chinese 4340 4" crank for a pre-'86 350, and for 6" rods, at $476.
I've seen a cast steel crank 406 SBC do over 750 HP with nitrous, so this crank will suffice.
Custom pistons would be near $700 per set.
So this build is at least $ 1536 just in the reciprocating assembly. That's really not bad.
If you type it and submit it, be prepared to offer evidence, as I am.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

You know 17, you're right. I apologize.

I should have recognized instantly that you're the future star of automotive dominance, and your ideas are inherently superior to any that we mere hobbyists down here have had all these years. In fact I remember I was in that exact same position when I was about 17; took me about a quarter of my first motor build to realize I was just another dumba$$. But that won't happen to you I'm sure.

You're exactly right about how this forum works, you figured it out: every other user on here has regular off-line meetings that you're not invited to, and we all sit around and think of how we can all tell you the same thing just to make you mad. None of us has the slightest interest in helping others avoid the same mistakes we've already lived through; we're all just a bunch of jerks. You're the only rational one.

Please, I beg you, build this masterful creation of which you speak, and when you're done, please come back and educate us all on how much better it is, how much more cost-effective and easier and trouble-free and quick it was than what we're all chanting to you in unison like a chorus of mindless zombies, so that we may learn from you. Share with us what you have learned once you have learned it.

I'm serious. When you get it done, come back and share the results with us. All we ask is that you be honest and truthful; tell us what difficulties you came across, what shortcuts you found, how much all the different parts of the project cost, how much power you got out of it, how many other similar cars you've beat with it (Honduhz don't count), and ABOVE ALL, would you do it again. That's the best contribution you could make. Add to the store of knowledge that lives here.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

You raised a question looking for OPINIONS.
That is what you got.
You were given genuine information as to the reality of doing it.
Your choice as to how you proceed.

1gary

Sooooooooooooo you have read about stuff,but never did it,right??.

I think you've mixed your results up.At first you're talking about a stroked 305 Now getting a amazing 850 hp(before 700 rwhp) without ANY details about camming/heads and then you throw in a 406 getting 750hp.Then you tell the O/P that HE doesn't understand........................all because you read about it,but you personally don't own or ever built it.Yeah time for you to learn and take some of your own advise.For one thing it maybe for sale,but what you need to do to it to get it to work is in FACT the rest of the story.Of course everyone has gone or owns a 9.90 car because it is that easy.I really love guys that throw out hp or ET numbers based on somthin the have never owned or built out of their own wallet,but sure nuff read about..................................

Want proof??.I watch the same "kind" of guy walk pass the back of the trailer all the time for all the yrs racing.The proof is because I am.

Guest

To get 700 at the wheels, after normal drivetrain losses at this level, is gonna take at least 850 at the crank. No inconsistency there.
I've built more than 1 N/A 540 BBC that made 800 HP, but you're right that I have yet to personally do a boosted SB to this level. Have you? Obviously not. Even so, I can learn from other's successes and mistakes, while you try to skirt the issue.
Pushing Chinese 4340 parts to 700 RWHP is nothing new. Typically done with a 350 block rather than a 305 block, but no matter. This is very near the upper limit of what these blocks can hold.
Of course I didn't get into cam and heads. This is a boosted proposal. 22 psi into the intake manifold, with race gas, serious springs, pushrods, and an MSD coil will get a 350 HP engine to 850 HP.
It's called OLD school for a reason. OLDsmobile died off for a reason.

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

i think this 305 bashing should be -limited- to WHY the person has a notion to build one. If someone wants to build one because all they are about is power, then yes, maybe a sarcastic comment and a remark about buying a 350 or going Lsx MIGHT be justified, but if an enthusiast wants to be different as to an aspect of being different:

Guy A: Builds a 383 stroker, races random guy on track, passenger of said X racer against 383 spreads word of Guy A's nasty car and it goes as far as 3 or 4 people down the line until someone just shrugs it off and says to himself, "Well, it was a 383, of course its fast"

Guy B; builds a semi hi horsepower 305, blows the doors off a known fast local car and tells everyone that witnesses this thats it "only a 305".... how far is that going to spread through word of mouth? ALOT farther through sheer amazement/curiousity/ or even as a joke. regardless, it will have a shock factor that some people like to get more than the domination factor that a high horsepower, larger CI engine provides the owner with.

I guess its all on how you look at it and why someone would want to build a small CI engine. I myself would tell someone on budget strictly looking for power to buy a cheap 5.3 and turbo it up against an auto tranny... this is just my opinion.

FireInMe17

It just gets really boring only hearing about people doing 3.4L swaps in the V6 forum and hearing nothing else will work and everything else is stupid, and only hearing about people doing 350's, 355's, and 383's on here and anything else is stupid and wont work and is a waste of time and all of that.

Theres a lot of smart people on here that could maybe, just maybe come together every now and again to make a custom engine and actually do something different than what everyone else ALWAYS does on here.

This is it pretty straight forward, I have a V6, am sick of the power, and want a V8, and afterall, any V8 is better than a V6... I found a 305 with low miles that ran good for cheap and bought it, and wanted to make it a Vortec, but didn't want to use 305 Vortec heads because they aren't true Vortecs, so I started to look for other ways to make the 305 work, and I was hell bent on getting it to, but now I guess I might as well use the 350 I have now to make them work since everyone bitches and moans about anything but what everyone else is doing on this forum.

And its not that I couldn't afford to go get a 350, its that I didn't feel like spending all the time and money to get a 350 when I had a perfectly good 305 laying around that would have worked if I would have just bolted it together with what I had. My ultimate goal was to have any other V8 engine than that dreaded 3.1L V6. It was a good engine to drive around in high school as my first car, but now that high school is over, and I know how to handle the car, I want something more.

And I don't really care if it would have cost me so much more to build a 305 with all custom parts in it than a 350. I would have had fun building it, I would have learned a lot about the work involved in building an engine, and the end result would have been something that no one on here could relate to having, and it would be different. I don't understand why everyone on here must constantly talk about doing the same exact thing over and over again and nothing else. Suggesting something "radical" on this site gets you ripped a new *******!.....when in reality its not so radical, its just a break from norm that fills these threads....

I'm new to this engine building stuff, so I'm going to studder and not know everything as you veterans do, but I wanted to build something different, and yeah I would have mad mistakes and ran into problems, but thats what its about. I wasn't out to make monster power, or make a 11 second car, I was out to get more power over my V6, and the 305 would have done that for me, but too late now because at everyones request I have a 350.