SSZ2891

I currently have a 305 in my 90 rs. Im looking to swap in a 350 or possibly something else. How would you guys who have done this, recommend going about it. Find one from the junk yard and send the block for machining? Crate engine? other ideas? also if i do decide to go with a junk yard engine, what are good car/trucks to pull one from and what exactly am i looking for to tell if its worth it or not.. also what is the ballpark price i should be lookin to pay. i hope to get a little discussion here on some different ways to tackle this common swap

84redta

iTrader: (34)

Obviously if you can afford crate, go crate motor, other guys on here will tell you whats good and whats not, a budget 350 won't hurt to waken up that car

As far as junk yard engines, pull the drain plug and pull valve covers to check for sludge and oil condition. If it's dry or has rust developing it's been sitting for a long time. Checking rotation resistance is good along with making sure it builds compression on each pair of piston strokes. Outside of hooking up a starter and doing a compression check this is the best you can do. The ideal thing to do would be to pull the heads and pull the oil pan to check the condition of the piston bores for scratches and rust along with checking some clearances and movement on the connecting rods, and crank.

Outside of that, the more money you spend the happier you'll be, but there is nothing wrong with (except the risk of sinking some money into something thats bad like cracked block, ect) rebuilding a junk yard motor, sending everything out to a machine shop to be redone and put the parts you want in the engine in there, so you know whats in there, not something that is potentially 20 years or so old. In the end, I think you need to set up a budget and go from there.

SSZ2891

yea im definately leaning towards a junk yard or craigslist engine. im figuring a couple hundred on the engine itself. i honestly have no idea when it comes to the machining work. do i give them the block and they tell me what needs to be done or how does all that work? then i will go from there with heads, intake, and i think i want to go carbed just cuz the simplicity of it. i wont have to worry about the computer. i have two 305s so i do have some parts i will be able to swap on and should save me a little money.
ive heard about a vortec engine? not really sure what this is or what truck i would find it in...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The main thing I look for in the junk yard is snakes - I want to see them before they see me...

Vortec - this is a generic name GM gave their truck engines. Pretty much it means nothing, because all of their truck engines have been "Vortec" for about 15 years. But, what most people mean when they say "Vortec heads" is the truck 350 from 1996 to 1999 (a few in 2000 as well), with casting numbers ending in 906 or 062. They bolt on to any Gen I SBC, but require a "Vortec"-specific intake manifold.

Most any '87-'99 truck 350 would be a good base to build upon. Taking the block to a machine shop and saying, "do what it needs" is an express lane to an empty wallet. It is reasonable to have them check it for rebuildability, which means they'll measure and inspect it to make sure it isn't cracked and doesn't have excessive wear. From there you can discuss pistons, crank turning, bearings, etc. It's standard to "dip" or "tank" or otherwise clean the block to get the built-up crud off of and out of the oil and coolant surfaces and passages. Doing this requires the cam bearings and "freeze plugs" to be removed and replaced with new parts. There are a bunch of other machining operations that can be performed, but whether or not to do them depends upon the condition of the engine you're starting with, and your final performance goals.

Except for the '96-'99 truck heads, you should consider getting different heads if you start with a truck engine. That's a topic for later, though.

For sure a crate engine pretty much will have done to it what it needs in order to perform as advertised - that's their main advantage, along with being already built.

SSZ2891

thank you for the great input guys.
haha luckily i dont have to worry about any snakes where i live (atleast not poisonous ones). so i should look for a 87-99 truck with a 350 in it. are any years better than others? will they all be four bolt mains? what would be a ballpark figure on machine costs on a decent block.
five7kid, you said "Except for the '96-'99 truck heads, you should consider getting different heads if you start with a truck engine. That's a topic for later, though."
what exactly did ya mean by that?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

"Gen I" small block Chevy truck heads are poor performance heads. If you want an engine that runs better than your 305, you don't want truck heads (except '96-'99 "Vortec" heads, of course).

Prices for machine work varies. Ballpark (and I haven't done a block for awhile): Tank block, replace cam bearings and freeze plugs, $150. Check out block (done between the tanking and replacing of the bearings and freeze plugs), $75-100 (more if they Magnaflux or sonic check the cylinder walls). Bore cylinders, $40-$50 per cylinder. Turn crank, $150-$250. Resize rod big ends, $150-$200.

TheMonster

96-99 truck heads are the highest flowing stock sbc heads. You can do a little bit of work to these heads and get great results, if you don't get these heads, you can always go aftermarket.

SSZ2891

if i could find a 96-99 engine i would probably go with that. if not, what heads would you recommend?

85T/A350

Even if you dont get a block with vortec heads, vortecs heads can be had fairly cheap from places like craigslist.

gwarren007

iTrader: (1)

A new Vortec short block is a great way to start-

http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factor...parts/12556121

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Plan for the worst, hope for the best.

Price out a new rotating assembly, and factor that cost into your budget. I bought a vortec truck motor for $75 out of the junkyard, and I couldn't use anything but the lifter dogbones and the hold down spider (still worth the $75 tho). Granted, I was building a 383, so I didn't even look at the rotating assembly.

If I were to do it again, I'd start with a new block.
My block and machine work was $500, and that's cuz I used the cheapest shop in town. You can get a new block for $700.

Heads.. Gonna have to be rebuilt anyway. It would have cost me $600 to get the vortecs rebuilt "right", and you can find a new set of iron heads for $700 if you shop around.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Whether you buy a new shortblock (and I agree, the "L31", or "Vortec", shortblock is a good deal), or get a truck shortblock from the JY and build it up, it's pretty hard to beat this deal to top it off:
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...ter/sd8060raag

Stock Vortec heads are valve-lift-limited to about 0.440" (reports vary - some can handle more, but many can only handle that much). Stock Vortec valve springs are junk for any kind of a decent cam. That kit takes care of all of that for you, on new castings. And has everything you need to install them on the shortblock. With a nice performance carb intake manifold.

oamhmad

iTrader: (1)

All good options discussed here. If you don't want to spend the time refurbishing old blocks and heads just buy a complete brand new crate motor.

$1700 will get a brand new GM Goodwrench 350 long block shipped to your door from Summit with a warranty. Granted it's not a power house. It has a weak cam and cheap heads. But the 250 or so HP with headers and dual plane intake, is a good place to start. Cam and heads can come when the warranty runs out and you've saved up for them

gwarren007

iTrader: (1)

For less than 2k you can get a Vortec longblock .