LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

well, i just wanted to let you know whats up with the stroker this week. first we install the SLP cam straight up(no i dont know the specs on it)we ground and ground, the block, rod bolts. well, we ground to much on one rod bolt and when we tourqed it it pulled through, much like we expected. the rod bolts where hitting the cam. we ended up retarding the cam 4 degrees, and everything is fine now. personally i have mixed feelings about that. well, next thing is the engine had main studs on it, with a windage tray, well, the long stroke of the rods hit the tray and it required so much fabrication, it was not worth even putting it on there. next, i went to put the timing cover on tonight, and put the new balancer on it, and realized, that 305's and 400's use different size balancers, so it wouldnt clear the 305 timing tab.i knew that, i just forgot. the guy i work with, cut off the timing tab, put the engine to TDC and moved the tab, me personally would have gotten the 400 timing cover and done it right. well, tomorrow night, i am putting on the heads, intake, etc, everything else should go ok, i hope, just wanted to let everyone know who is thinking about this, what problems are involved. see ya. lil jay

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Wide Open Till You See God...Then Brake

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

No free lunch, huh?

I considered a stroked 305 for about a week - about 7 days too long.

Good luck, take the time now rather than fix what breaks later. Not too late for the proper timing cover. What exactly did you do with the rod/bolt?

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

well, the engine is not mine, i work with a guy at night, and we are doing it for another guy. with the rod bolt(the guy i work for works in a machine shop)put a new rod bolt in it, and checked it, all the good stuff. i told him tonight the guy should have built a L98 and been done with it. this is what you get when you are different. lol

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Wide Open Till You See God...Then Brake

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

also, with the main studs, they where so long we couldnt bolt the oil pan on. thats another reason we took it out. JEGS didnt bother to tell the him he needed a special oil pan, one thing after another. next time we will know. lil jay

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Wide Open Till You See God...Then Brake

Basett_Racing

If you are having to take that much material off the rod to clear the cam, you MUST be taking it off of the wrong place. I have built several SB strokers, and I have never had to take all that much off to clear even BIG race cams. The sketch below is how Wheeler Motorsports clearances their rods, and it is that basis I've always used. I put a set of rods clearanced exactly like these in a friend's 383 with a .575" lift Reed solid cam and they all had at least .050" clearance before hitting the cam. I also clearanced my rods in my 383 the same way, and I have a .580" int, .599" exh Hyd roller in mine. It sounds like maybe you are taking material off of the top of the bolt.


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82 Z28 383, Ported 215cc Dart Iron Eagle Heads 72 cc Comb. Chambers, Comp custom grind Hyd roller cam, Speed Pro .250" domes, Wheeler Motorsports 4340 I beam rods, Eagle 5140 steel crank, Weiand Team G intake, Holley 830 DP, hedman headers
Trans: Turbo 350 w/ 4000 stall -- Rearend 7.5 w/ Richmond 4.10's, Auburn Minispool
Best ET:11.60 @ 114.56, w/ a 7.34 1/8 @ 93.50, and a 1.622 60'


89 RS, L03 305, Hypertech Chip,cat delete, Dynomax exhaust,K&N open element Filter,160 stat, MSD coil --Trans:700R4 Corvette Servo -- Rearend: 7.5 GM 3.42 w/ posi-lock

Bassett Racing




[This message has been edited by Basett_Racing (edited September 05, 2001).]

bhaas

Won't grinding that much off make things outta balance? Or does it really matter?
Thanks.


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1986 SC Camaro
Mods: Threw 2.8 in garbage, put in rebuilt
350 .060 over, XE268H Comp cam, Edlebrock
Performer Intake and Edlebrock 600 CFM Carb,
Pete Jackson noisy GearDrive (which sounded
cool for about 5 minutes, now I'm sick of it)
Rebuilt TH350, 3.42 Rear Gears. LCA RLB's.
B&M Mega Shifter.
Soon to be T5 YES!!!

jimmy

what kinda power would a stroker kit like this make, and where can i get one? thanks

rezinn

jimmy, the stroker kit for a 350 is the same as a 305, except for the pistons and rings. I for one will tell you that it is not worth the work or cost. You could build a new 350, and still have more power, for less work and less cash.

The power all depends on what intake, heads cam, etc you run.. with a good cam in a 305 stroker you could probably be making the same power as a stock 350, all else equal.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

well, the engine is in the car, we sat the engine in, bolted it up, and slid the edelbrock headers in. the dropped right in, didnt have to wiggle or unbolt anything. although its best to leave the header unbolted while putting the spark plugs in, i have never seen something like that before. hmmmm lets see what else, jegs sent some 2 1/4 inch cat, i dont know if its jegs fault, or the guy who ordered it, i showed him the 3 inch mandrel pipe, and the cat, and said theres now way we are doing this, so he orded a random tech cat and got it today. also, the next snag in the ordeal was he oreder 24lb injectors from accel. well, all of the injectors fit except one. where the injector plugs into the harness(the little square part with the wire clip, yeah that thing, lol)there are tabs on three of the sides where the clip snaps onto the injector, and on the inside there are the 2 prongs and a tab, on one injector, the tab is on the wrong side(i know this probably doesnt make anysense, its hard to describe without a pic) i looked at all the injector plug ins to see if there was for some strange reason that injector went in a special location, even though i have no idea why. after looking and looking i found nothing, i called jegs and they said they are sending a new set of injectors. so i will see how that goes tomorrow. oh, i have a question, whats the best way to set the AFPR? do you have to take off the upper intake to get to it?

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Wide Open Till You See God...Then Brake