Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

The thing is I've got a 305 TPI with a 700R4. Do I have enough clearance to pull the whole thing out or do you guys recommend to take them out separately. Any help appreciated.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

With a cherry picker type yes.
Either wrap the tailshaft real good in plastic or use a plug. There will be leakage!
Don't forget to remove all linkage!!
2 or 3 ppl to help guide it out.
Some ppl remove the front end for room.

Project-RS

iTrader: (1)

like havoc said, but if you have the car on ramps or jacks, it will help out on clearence because our third gens have so much room....lol

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys. To be honest with you, I don't need to remove the transmission, but I can't seem to access the 2 top bolts conecting the engine and the tranny. I thought I could take out the engine with all the tpi stuff on it, but I can't do it. I've done many engines in all kinds of GM cars from the late 60's and early 70's, but this is "different". Thanks for your help.

camaronewbie

if taking both out together, I highly recommend taking the radiator out first!

Project-RS

iTrader: (1)

the top bolts are not space friendly. i removed the top end to get to mine

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, it can be done. It can be done by one person, but its so much easier with a friend or two to help guide things out and to watch clearances.

As mentioned above, you definitely want to remove the radiator.

Don't forget to put the rest of the transmission-to-engine bolts back in. You don't want just 2 bolts holding them together.

Dustytrix

iTrader: (3)

I let the rear of tranny down as much as possible , Then used about a 2ft extension The bolts came on out. I might have had to use a swivel on the end with the socket.

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Ok, it's great to have you guys post to this thread. Thanks! The fans, radiator, A/C compressor, water hoses, and other misc connecions are all out already. I'm gonna try to do what Dustytrix did. Should I remove the starter too?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

See pics in my vBGarage.

One man operation.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Do the top two bellhousing bolts first before you remove the crossmember

Use a standard 9/16" wrench from above and they'll come right out

The hardest one for me is the second one up on the left. The floor pan is so close, getting a hand in there is difficult. Its still do-able though, even as a one man job

Easiest of all is pulling the engine trans together. A leveler is very handy, but not required. Take it out the bottom for minimal greif

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so today I took all the TPI stuff out. I also removed the exhaust pipe and the starter. I lowered the tranny and removed the top 4 bolts of the bellhousing. The 2 bottom ones are loose and ready to come out. The tranny is back on its crossmember. I'm going to pull the engine out alone, not with the tranny. I jacked up the whole car and set it on stands so that I could move around underneath, 'cause I'm a pretty big guy (285 lbs)
I'll try to make time tomorrow to unbolt the flywheel and motor mounts. Then all I need is rent an engine hoist and buy me an engine stand. I need to find out what's wrong with this 305 and decide if I'm going to fix it or get me a 350. Thanks again guys!

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so the engine won't turn at all!!! it threw two rods and it made a huge hole on the oil pan. So I can't take the last bolt to the flywheel off. Looks like the combo is coming out together. I haven't had much time to work on it though so I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Once you get the bellhousing bolts out, the converter will slide off the input shaft

To get the converter off the bad crank will have to be removed

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Man, I'm so stupid. That's right. It's been a looooooong time since I've removed a motor. Thanks for the advice Pocket. By the way, here are some pics of the hole in the oil pan and what the crankshaft looks like.

Chevy8588

iTrader: (1)

how do you blow a 305? seriously...

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

What do you mean? I guess just like you can blow any other internal combustion engine...
IDK for sure what happened because my son was driving it down the FL's Turnpike when it happened. It never knocked before and the oil pressure seemed "ok" according to the stock digital dash reading. Of course, we know those gauges are not too acurate. It's got 178K miles on it, and it was driven hard by the previous owner and my son. They both loved the donuts (not just from Dunkin Donuts that is). I did some burnouts but nothing serious. I guess it was just its time to throw the towel (or the rods, hahaha).

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

That's 1 way to vent the crank case!

Crate motor?

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Generally, a cherry picker can't reach enough, with the nose still attached. Either use a rafter hoist or pull the urethane nose & your day will be MUCH easier.

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

I hadn't looked at the hole as a vent, but yeah right? hahaha

What do you mean "Crate motor?"

Stephen, thanks for your suggestion too.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

A motor that's already assembled.
Buyer puts on their own accessories-- starter, alternator, flex plate or fly wheel, intake system, spark plugs & wires, distributor, etc.

Short block-- block, crank, pistons, rings, cam. Buyer finishes with their other parts. As above listed.

Long block-- almost complete-- add heads, oil pan, lifters, push rods, rocker arms to the short block parts.

Turn key-- put it in & go.

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks. I understand those definitions, but what did you mean with the question? Were you implying that I'll need a new crate motor? I'm sorry I don't get it.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

No not at all!! Just asking what your plan is from here?

Re-build? Get another engine to re-build? Get one thats all done?

Sorry to confuse ya.... just a general kind of question.

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Oh, ok, I'm sorry, sometimes I'm a little slow. lol

Well, after I take it out (haven't had time or money to rent the hoist), I'm going to take it apart and see how much damage was done and determine if it's fixable. I don't want to spend too much money, but if I can't fix this one then I'll get a 350 crate if at all possible. Thanks for the interest.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I can tell you right now that engine isn't fixable or isn't worth fixing.

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

I'm afraid you're right. I've been looking for a motor around here and Ebay, but nothing close to me or in my reach. No big hurry, it'll come when it's my time...

shdtree

True. Those light duty Shuck's-type crane's can't reach in far enough. I stuck a long piece of pipe into the boom of the crane to extend the reach by about 2 feet and secured it to the length of the boom with a come-along, such that the 3rd hook on the come-along was what I actually connected to the chain that the engine was attached to.