mackjar66

iTrader: (9)

OK, I have read the pros and cons of swapping engines and here is my dilema. Buy a wrecked 1998 Z28 for $3000 that ran 11.5 E.T. Build an LT1 with using the stock bottom end and AI intake,cam,head combo and swap a t56, or throw 3-4G's at an L98 and then swap to a T56 when the T-5 gives out? My current budget is around 4G's total and I am leaning more towards doing the Ls1 w/t56 swap for a couple reasons. Painless swap harness is 600 I can Fab my own T56 swap crossmember and I get the upgraded interior and rearend for the 91and the aftermarket rims. The swap only has 80k on it and I have seen the car run and drive. Anyone see any issues I might run into with this swap? Or better yet who has done this and hated it and why?

Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

Some dilemma huh

For the hassle of swapping I would go LS1 instead of LT1. LS1 has newer technolgy, easier to tune, stock heads better than L98 and engine internals are stronger for more HP. I would stick with L98 if you want to keep historic aspect of thirdgens and more of a street machine. What are your power goals and intended use? I thought about doing the same thing, prices seemed comparable between both. I am going L98 for above reasons.

mackjar66

iTrader: (9)

looking for 450-500hp range at the flywheel. I absolutely would like to stay historical in the thirdgen area but its such a pain to think that the t-5 cant handle the power and having a 60% package ready that can put the car into the 11s for 3k is a nice thought. Over all i drive the car only in good weather and it only has 78000 miles. Its is a street car well before a strip car. I even thought about buying the car then selling off the mildly built ls1 to fund a L98 build up since I can use everything else from the car like trans and rear end and seats. This build here with the stealth ram has me interested but spending 1k-1500 for a standalone system has me cringing.

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ine/index.html

88fastgta

iTrader: (9)

i agree with blackbog...build the l98..... everyone expects a ls1 car to be fast.... you will be more than happy with a H/C/I upgrade... that will be plent strong for a street car... the cost of switching to a ls1 you can have a really nice l98 combo that will satisfy your needs..... why get the latest and greatest engine now when in 5 years everyone will want to exchange their ls1 engine for the next "hot" motor....

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

after having 9 motors in my camaro, i'm sticking with the gen3 crowd, way too simple to get good power and streetability out of them. I wouldn't put a dime into a L98, or lt1 engine again.

Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

Once you get past 400hp, you will have to start upgrading or replacing transmission and rear end for either build. I think it will cost you more than $4,000 too. Historical aspect for me only was in regards to TPI induction and look. Even in keeping TPI, I am upgrading to a FIRST unit to make max hp. It might come down to money difference between both. Have you added up costs for L98 and LS1 build? Hard part for swap is finding parts car which looks like you have. You could also sell your stock L98 engine and transmission to defray costs. I'm leaning towards LS1 swap.

Here are some estimate costs for L98 buildup. Not sure if you have upgrade parts now (catback, etc).
$1,400 heads
$300 cam
$250 injectors
$90 fuel pressure regulator
$500 headers
$700 catback echaust
$600 upgrade transmission (parts only)
$1,000-$2,400 upgrade or replace rear end
$1,000 intake
$600 tune
$5,840-$7,240

LS1 - just taking a guess here
$3,000 parts car for engine, transmission, rear end, wiring, fuel pump, etc
$700 conversion headers
$600 wiring harness
$600 tune
$300 cam
$5,200

mackjar66

iTrader: (9)

Im leaning more towards the LS1 swap for a couple reasons. One its a whole 98 z28 interior is great, has the upgraded trans and rearend, doing my own wiring really doesnt bother me or fab my own trans crossmemeber I have all the tools and knowledge to do it. The donor car has the 400hp SLP package on it all ready which I know I can sell the lid air cleaner recoup some funds. I wouldnt be selling of the original driveline either its an lb9 with 5 speed, which I figure Ill give to my dad for his camaro once he decides to buy a decent chassis. I figure for the $ I could do the swap do all the work myself, clean up the engine bay then when tax time rolls around next year get the car painted, tube kmemeber, ect. Just so many options.....hmmmm

mackjar66

iTrader: (9)

Man honestly I know that those are estimated part prices but I think realistically i can do it for at least 1200 less maybe more. Guess I am really used to paying wholesale pricing on my parts. And the 98 z28 ran its fastest at 11.6 1/4 Ive seen the slips and the video. Just dont think I'd have to spend the extra funds on that power plant just yet.

Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

I was going to ask if you had a 350 block. Seeing that you have LB9, I would go LS1 swap route.

mackjar66

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for all the great in put, I will keep you posted on my decision and if I go with a swap Ill post my cost and pics throughout

StevenB L98/LS1

Me personally just my opinion, id do the L98 build. Theres WAYYYY to many ls1 builds around that people run. Id take the approach that would have peoples heads scratching. It will be a challenge, but First Fuel Injections TPI intake, with msd coil, distributor, msd box, wires, run colder plugs, heads, cam, gut cats, Magnaflow cat back with cutouts, longtube headers, (clearance issues i know) but you can make it work. High pressure injectors and tune, high flow fuel pump, t56 swap a lot more. You make very good power off a few grand on a L98 combo. Another reason why i choice an L98 over ls1 is because i would trust an L98 bottom end over an ls1 any day. There rock solid.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

all that to run bottom 12s.....I'm sure the guy will pass. Why don't you trust a gen 3 bottom end again? there's several in the 250k+ range for miles on them. You can make so much more power and get drive ability and gas mileage out of the new motors, the old stuff is just....old. Using a 25 year old computer efi system to burn chips and hope it's done right is pointless. there's a reason the new swaps are gaining popularity, they flat outperform anything older.

Klortho

Just turned 188k on my LS1, drove it to Fla T56 and 3.42 gears and got 26mpg out of it loaded down with luggage and 3 people.

StevenB L98/LS1

seen to many ls1 come in always needing a rebuilding every 100K, and because i seen our local motorsport shop in town that only deals with ls1 vettes and camaros always having issues. So no, i dont agree newer tech is better. You got more computers, annoying check engine lights always coming on for something as stupid as your gas cap. But remember its just my opinion, doesnt mean anybody else has to believe me, im only friends with the manager at the shop So he tells me everything there is to know on the ls1 cars, he told me the l98 is a stronger bottom end. I think ill stick with old school. Plus its third gen origins as original stuff which i find cool.

Klortho

L98 bottom end is not as strong as the LT1, and nowhere near as strong as the LS1. Hell, the 5.0 in my '89 Mustang has a stronger bottom end than the L98 does. LT1's got PM rods, hyper pistons and a pretty solid crank in it. Stock LS1 bottom ends 6 bolt splayed mains plus the rods and pistons that come in them can handle 6500 rpm all day and not even bat an eye at it. Even at 180k I've ran mine to the rev limiter a bunch with no issues, still holds 40 psi oil pressure at 1500 rpm at temp almost 80 when cold with 5w30 oil, holds 180* in the summer, I'll never look back at the old school carb/ECM pre 93 model motors again.

I want to see someone take an L98, put h/c/i and run mid to low 12's like you can an LS1. Want to go faster, throw a 150 shot on it and watch it scoot.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Well, Mack, where are you???

As for LS1 & 2's, not sure if LS6 intake and shaved 317's = "H/I", but stock cam'd 2000 LS1 with headers, 3000 stall (never ran it with the stock converter), and 3.73's clicked off 12.4's before it was sorted out. I'll be able to report on its road performance when I get back from a little weekend out-of-towner next week.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Pretty sure the LSx engines are not going to be "replaced" for a long time. The original SBC went 50+ years. Now GM has another top dog performer that works for everything and I can't see them replacing that for a while to come.

The reason there are way too many LS1 builds around is because it's an amazing swap. So much streetability and ease of flash tuning with gobs of horsepower un-achievable on a similiarly built 350. Not to mention great gas mileage. The build you just listed would cost you way more than a cammed LS1 swap and the LS1 would make the same if not more power. Your average H/C/I 350 makes 360-380 rwhp. A cammed LS1 with bolt ons is at 400 rwhp. I've been on both ends and I wish every day that I didn't waste my money on my old 355, and just went for the LSx right off the bat. Hell I bought my 5.3 and almost all my other parts by just parting out my used 355 stuff!!

And bottom ends not solid? Tell that to the guys making hundreds of passes on 5.3 and 6.0 truck motors with a turbo and making 600 rwhp with a stock bottom end. They'll hold 15 PSI on a 70mm turbo all day and not flinch. I would love to see a stock bottom end L98 do that.

StevenB L98/LS1

13.5 psi on stock L98 internals on 87 iroc 125K miles, in 1/8 mile run 7.9. check it on youtube, guy had a thread on here a while back about his turbo build.

And i know ls1s are the god motors, but its get OLD! i was just giving the guy ideas for an l98 so he build something different, but theres always the easy way out, go ls1. Theres another way instead of an ls1, go old school sbc, guy i know has a 406 sbc iroc in town here, 950 cfm carb, on built motor, and he keeps up or beats out ls1s. So you can do old school without the computer bs.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

"New" is getting "old"??? What an upside-down world we live in.

"Old school" is what is "old".

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

I know the original SBC is still a tried and true design, and you can make a ton of power on it. The OP just asked what would be best for the $4k or so dollars he had to spend to get the most power, and it's by far an LS1. Sure a SBC would be sweet if built right and could be made to hand it to a lot of LS1's but you are talking $$ with that.

And a 7.9 in the 1/8th isn't bad but my brothers mustang did an 8.0 in the 8th and he ran a 12.4 1/4, so figure that iroc was a 12.2 or so car. My 5.3 with only 1.5 more PSI should be a sold 10 second 1/4 mile car and thats on 100% completely stock bottom end, stock heads, and a small stock LS6 camshaft.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

most cam only ls1 guys are running low 7s on motor alone....so that guy needed 13 psi to run a low 12 second pass? i feel bad for him


Most boost 5.3L truck motors around 10-12psi are running low 10s at upper 130s/low 140s in the 1/4 mile.

Grumbles

I am a HUGE fan of old iron...

That being said if you have the funds and the LS1 is available (and you have all the supporting stuff, ecm/tranny etc), definitely do that. The LS1 is the latest/most common swap because it is fuggin' sick. All aluminum? If it is, you'd be a fool to go any other route. Those things are incredible powerplants.

Dont forget subframe connectors! :P

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Filled up this morning after my weekend road trip. 793 miles (according to Garmin - don't have the speedometer working yet), 32.3 gallons (2 of which were E85 that I'm trying to get rid of - put in a gallon with each fill-up of E-0), 24.5 mpg average.

That is with an untuned combo, 3.73 gears, 3000 stall w/lock-up, not taking it easy (while down at the lower elevation, had to see what it did flooring it from a stop out on the highway - it spun the rear tires until it shifted 1-2 at 5500 RPMs), fighting a 30 mph headwind for the last 100 miles or so on the way home.

I'm sure it would improve with custom tuning. Regardless, I'd like to see an "old school" set-up that runs mid/low-12's at 110+ mph (with slicks) get that kind of mileage.

Demonic13

iTrader: (-1)

I have an L98 and debating on a complete swap/rebuild for more power. I am not taking sides or anything but I saw the video for the L98 but wheres the LS1 proof?

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

A search over on LS1tech will give you probably 20 guys minimum that have mostly stock 5.3's that are making 550-600 RWHP with a turbo. There is loads of proof out there if you search.

Heres a few vids of Maxx's 3rd gen TA...bone stock truck 6.0 with a turbo

Dyno vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6s9ZUwjsUKY

1/4 mile vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3C-d...eature=related

He used to have a stock turbo 5.3 in it and made some awesome numbers with that. You can find those vids as well if you search youtube. He sold the 5.3 turbo motor to a kid he knows who put it in an RX7 and it is still running today with plenty of abuse!

Demonic13

iTrader: (-1)

Thank you for the videos. but this guy had a 6.0L not a 5.7 or 5.3L either way, I am not looking to run a turbo. I want to tare down to the block and replace all internals what is lighter and much stronger to handle the power is what I want to know. I will get to the rest of the vehicle when it calls for it. For now I am just looking for incite on the engine. I not.... it old technology bull ****. I want to know the FACTS. Please help out thank you.

Demonic13

iTrader: (-1)

Once again not taking sided but check out this L98 stock Vs LS1 Stock vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fov7qdem2K4. We can only imagine there both stock. Either way the 82-92 are like 200lbs lighter. That's besides my point, I just want to know the engines strengths and weakness. Thanks again.

UnstableAviator

I tell you what, I'm only 32 and have had a blast hot rodding engines since I was a teenager. I built 3 old school small block chevys, ran a best of 7.42 in the 1/8th, and learned a lot along the way. That being said, I will never build an old school sbc again. I don't hate, or dislike them at all, but the LS series is just amazing. It's your choice, but I think you'll have more fun with an LS....and don't let this forum fool you, they're just not that common yet among the hot rod community I'm seeing in southern Ohio. Also, since the swap I've sold every piece of old school small block parts I've collected over the years.

Demonic13

iTrader: (-1)

Thank you so much for the input. I just don't know if it is worth spending the extra since I already have the L98 installed stock. Only 2 questions why do you favor the LS and not the l98? Is the L98 actually a factory SBC engine? This will help make my final decision? Thank you.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Ok, here I go, 89 formula 350 with TFS heads, biggest SLP cam ported base runners, plenum and the full SLP package. trans had a 2400 stall, a ford 9" with 4.11gears. I know there was a bit more done but it was minimal..
On a road trip back in the day with my GF, her sister and mom the car got 27-28 mpg running 80ish mph with the air on!!! It also ran 12.50-12.70 @ 110-112 at the time!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

All depends on what you wanna do. There are arguments for each motor. LS1 swap will likely be more expensive in the long run compared to a building a sbc but the performance benefits are there with the LS1.

Then again it depends, i've seen guys build 10 sec all motor sbc's with todays great heads/cam technologies for about same price or so as it would cost you to make a reliable heads/cam lsx car run similar times, and still get good mileage. 87TA' 406 ran 10.4 at 132 all motor and gets 20mpg or close to that last time he drove it 5 hrs to home from track. Not many lsx boys around the area run that hard with such a simple setup.

More ppl know how to tune a LS1 so thats a great plus. Tuning 80's efi is easy but you need to learn it yourself if you wanna build anything because no one tunes these cars anymore. I can burn a chip and install it just as quickly as flash tuning an ECM. I've done both so I know. No problems with chip burning

I love my 99 LS1 car. 12.2's in good air with just your basic exhaust bolt ons, stall and gear on drag radials. Its mpg could be improved, used to get 25mpg with 2.73's but now its closer to 19-20 on a good day with 3.73's. I think it just needs abit more tuning. 6spd cars typically see better numbers.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

I've built SBC's and have worked on a few LSx motors including my own. I'm with unstableaviator....I will never go back to a SBC, because in my opinion, the LSx motors are actually easier to work on, have unbeatable head technology, and are lighter than a SBC. Sure it'll cost more money up front, but the benefits far surpass the cost. Plus, the SBC is a very tough motor to keep leak free around the oil pan. 9 out of 10 times I see one, it leaks oil. With the LSx engines design, you really have to try to get it to leak, haha.

In the end, the 350 TPI is a great motor as well, but if you have no means of tuning it, then it is a waste to build it. It will never run right unless it is custom tuned. On the other hand, with an LSx, you can build it with heads, cam, etc, then fire it up and it will run good enough to drive it to a tuner. Since LSx tuners are everywhere, it shouldn't be hard to find a shop to do it!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Interesting observation. I never had a problem with leaking around the oil pan once you use good gasket and sealant around the edges/corners. My current motor had a leak develop from one of the bolts on the pan from the oil filter area. Alittle thread sealant and a washer under the bolt head, retorque and it was fine. My previous motor didnt leak. No rear main issues on either one. One was 1pc, current is 2 piece.
No issues so far at 116k miles on my LS1 too however but only thing it does is eat alittle oil from the pcv common with lsx systems.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

Haha...not saying ALL SBC's leak, but my 305 dripped in probably 3 places around the pan, my brothers 400 leaked at the pan, and a freind of mine who had a 350 had to change the pan gasket 3 seperate times before he finally got it to stop leaking! The only small block I have personally seen that didn't leak was my brothers old one that he blew up. Looked like the previous owner put a bunch of RTV on the pan gasket when he installed it which helped. It's just kind of a crappy design, the way the pan mates to the timing cover. I know people can build them so they don't leak, but it has always seemed like hit or miss.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I first drove the '57 40 years ago this month, back when it had the original 220 HP "Power Pack" 283 & Powerglide. Today I only have a few "old school" parts left to sell off. All of my "toys" will be LS when the '57 is back up and running.

This all got started in '07 when my wife asked me, "What would be your dream car?" My answer, after some thought, was to make Berlinetta #1 what I wanted it to be. That lead to the eBay purchase of a LS1/T56 drop-out. Then I couldn't bear to tear B1 apart, so bought another '82 Berlinetta to put it into. Then in '08 I came across the LQ4/4L80E for the '57, long before the LS1/T56 was finished. Then in '09 I planned a Vortec head update for the Gen I 350 then in B1, and before that was implemented, came across the LS1/4L60E dropout for it. Then the 396 in the '57 spun a rod bearing in '10. As of today, I still need to get that LQ4/4L80E put together for it, but don't regret having sold off the 396.

For what all that's worth...

DeltaElite121

I've had both. LSx motors are over-rated because nobody EVER talks about the cost associated with building them right. Do they make excellent power? No doubt, they do.. but for the cost invested, you spend more to gain more at this point in time (but if we look at dollar per HP, it is cheaper overall). You're paying for technology, and like anything newer - it costs more to do it. It really depends on what your goals are, and what your income is. I personally don't make enough money to feed powercravings from an LSx motor (this will change in 6 months). For the enthusiast who has a good paying job - the LSx generation is certainly appealing because a (more) budget-inclined build is not needed.

I choose SBC. If I was really outwardly concerned with gas mileage I would've kept my civic for DD'ing. Obviously, that's not the case. The upsides to the LSx? It's an ever growing platform, and the prices are slowly coming down to where many others can also afford them.

I think you should decide for yourself which is "better" for you.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn't exactly call them over-rated....theres a reason that the LSx is making it's way into everything from muscle cars, to rx7's, miatas, skylines, etc. The list goes on. It's because people know that it's an amazing engine in terms of power, driveability, fuel economy, technology... And the cost is not so great if you own a welder and know how to fabricate. Sure, if you open a spohn catalog and order every LSx swap item in there, you'll spend more than the motors worth. But it can and has been done on the cheaper side many times. A junkyard 5.3 can be bought for $600 intake to oil pan, ussually with the harness.

UnstableAviator

I agree they are more expensive. The "barriers to entry" are real, but to many people the investment is worth it to realize much greater future gains.

Wise man, you are. Once the initial purchase and swap work is completed, its very cost effective from there to increase power. GM's 243 castings worked on by a good CNC shop (PRC, AI, etc) make unbelievable power out of a small 346c.i. engine. The LS6 intake is a formidable piece, and can be bought all day long for less than $350. Effective head/cam packages for ~$1700, and supporting mods like an improved oil pump, lifters, and trays are reasonable.

Example from 'tech. When was the last time you saw ANY Gen 1 350 in a full weight car run like this, on pump gas, and still be prefectly driveable? IIRC, he's running a stock LS6 intake, bolt ons, and a texas speed head/cam package. Ported 5.3's and a Torquer 2.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCJNF...layer_embedded

DeltaElite121

The truth is many people do not have such accomodations, or skills (hense why the swap parts are made for the general public and sold accordingly). That's like me saying "well, you could save a LOT of money on a house if you just had the tools, and started building!" .. Not to say you aren't right, as it will save you a ton of money certainly.. but you just don't see someone who can randomly do those kinds of things efficiently every day unless it's something you do for a living generally.

I say they're over-rated because everyone points their finger straight to the LS1 and goes OMG GET THE GODMOTOR when it's really a stupid idea if you're trying to keep it down to a budget and need it to be "plug and play".. kind of like how EVERYONE points their finger at going straight for AFR heads when they're definitely not budget-minded, and there's more than one way to get your goals (or in that example, more than one type of cylinder head to get the job done properly).

My next build will probably be another LS motor, but that won't be for awhile. I think it's important to remain objective about things as opposed to telling people to reach for things that aren't feasible for them. I'm going to stick with the LQ4/9 this next time around, personally.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I know of a few combinations of parts that can run like that and get good driveability. AI LT1 kits to name a few. Is it cheaper? Eh probly not since you could get those times with a big heads/cam stock bottom ls1 when a stock bottom LT1 would be pushing it but depending on car weight its possible.

Once you start getting passed the 500whp mark, it takes more money on either side to work. And if you are talking an all out max effort n/a pump gas build, its a toss up on either end. Cubes dominate and to make cubes on either setup, you need new rotators. SBC is handicapped abit more since you need new block most of the time but the rest of the parts will add up close in proximity.

For the budget guys doing cam only ls1's for 11 second slips, you cant beat a gm lsx motor.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

It's funny were having this "budget or not" conversation now since I just ran into a guy locally today that had an IROC camaro with a 6.0 in it. He went with the carb conversion MSD box, left the truck accesories on it (had a cowl hood previously), and kept the factory 700R4 tranny. Said the car cost him $700 bucks and that he had no more than $3K or so dollars into everything including the car price. He said the motor is probably making around 345 HP since he left the stock cam in it, but for that price, the thing was a screamer! And it was a pretty clean car too. He used actual conversion motor mounts as well. I guess if you take the time to research and see what will work, you can do it decently on the cheap.

BTW, he picked up the 6.0 for $200!!!!! He said it probably had 200k miles on it, but it ran great and didn't smoke at all!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yeah for situations like that you can get a great running car. i have a buddy with a 6.0 that had over 220K mile on it I do believe. Truck motor. Just swapped valve springs and cam and ran 11.4's at 119 in a el camino talk about budget. Made his own headers from a set of cheap used big block headers, just hacked off the flange and put on a ls1 flange.

zenish

as i understand it a ls1 has vortec type heads so its basically an aluminum vortec engine.are lsi heads so much better than vortec 350 heads?other than weight and lower end strength is a lsi that much better than a late eighties 350 with vortec heads?

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

They are not even in the same ballpark. Totally different engine and design than a vortec 350. The heads are 18* heads over the traditional small block 23* heads meaning a MUCH better flow to the combustion chambers. The intake runners are massive compared to a SBC head as well. LS1 engines also have a new firing order. No coolant passages flow through the intake manifold either on an LS1 engine, and they are almost completely built with reusable O-ring style gaskets, so no messing with RTV. About the only thing in common between the two is that they both have 8 cylinders.

Maybe you were referring to an LT1 engine? Those are very similiar minus the slightly better head design and a few other small differences.

watajob

iTrader: (29)

I went LB9 to L98 'cuz it's bolt in and I'm old/lazy/a technodunce. An LS swap is the hands down answer for the best power. I've never understood an LT1 swap. The reverse cooling/optispark/etc. headaches never made sense to me when an L98 with good heads and a mini ram/HSR will make the same/better power.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

You had my exact thoughts on that comment. I don't get the LT1. POS optispark design, and not many benefits to outweigh a SBC. If you want to do a swap, go LSx.....But some go fast parts added to an L98 would make for a sweet combo as well!

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

Problems with the optispark are 95% of the time user abuse. Theres solutions out there to minimize the risk of failure of them.

I love the LT1. Stock parts alone can support alot of healthy power that a L98 will need completely different heads/intake setup. Ofcourse I am biased in this.

To me it seems what gets most people with LSX swaps are just the costs of swapping it in.

DeltaElite121

Nothing beats the sound of a well built LT1 in my opinion.

whitedevilTA

iTrader: (8)

I know it's a great engine, and that it can make great power. Just always wondered why someone would take out a SBC to put in an LT1 when they are so similiar in the first place. I would rather spend the money on a stealthram and bolt that onto a 350 than spend the money on an entire LT1 and then have to do everything that is required to get it to run in there.

I guess it would be a cool swap if you started with an L05 engine or something. If I had a 350 TPI though, I would keep that and do an aftermarket intake setup. In that case, I wouldn't think it'd be worth it. But just my opinion, nothing more!

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

No doubt you have a point there. I will never do a L98 to LT1 swap. I went L03 to LT1 and never looking back. I plan to take it to the track bolt on mode to see what it runs before deciding on what to do next.

Better believe if I find a amazing deal on a LQ4/9 that I will swap out that LT1 in a heartbeat.