Should I got with a sb350 or a sb400
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Should I got with a sb350 or a sb400
Ok, my engine deal just backed out on me for getting me a cheap 350 long block to rebuild, $150 for the long block minus the intake manifold. i am gonna rebuild it from the ground up, but i didnt want to have to buy some stuff that might not matter if i could get it off the block. now my delima is should i go sb350 or sb400 now that i have a choice. what are some issues that i will face with a sb400 that i wouldnt with a 350, and is the power and money difference worth it? i am on a 1500-2000 budget, remember this when replying.
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
I would go with a 350 if I was you, most stock 400 blocks are not any good for making serious power, the cylinder walls are usually too thin, especially if they have been bored out. A lot of 400's tend to overheat too, even if you have a large radiator.
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92 Camaro RS 5.0 5-Speed (Quasar Blue)
T-Tops
14" Open Air Cleaner
3.08 Posi-trac
Edelbrock TBI Intake
Crane cam
Ported & polished stock heads 3 angle valve job
HyperTech Chip
SLP Headers (Ceramic Coated)
UltraFlo cat-back exhaust
74 Dodge Dart Sport 360 (11.2 1/4 mile)
2000 Dodge 1500 Ram Sport
------------------
92 Camaro RS 5.0 5-Speed (Quasar Blue)
T-Tops
14" Open Air Cleaner
3.08 Posi-trac
Edelbrock TBI Intake
Crane cam
Ported & polished stock heads 3 angle valve job
HyperTech Chip
SLP Headers (Ceramic Coated)
UltraFlo cat-back exhaust
74 Dodge Dart Sport 360 (11.2 1/4 mile)
2000 Dodge 1500 Ram Sport
#3
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Yeah right... I haven't enjoyed the 400 I've had in my 83 for the last 10 or 12 years at all, it's been a real slug, only beats LS1 cars by a couple of car lengths... I'm pretty disappointed... if you find one, just give it to me, I'll take it off your hands. And it overheats so bad, while I was living in Memphis using the car as my daily driver for all that time and not turning the A/C off for 7 months out of the year, once in a while it would get hot enough to ping if I sat like in the drive-through or something for 30 minutes on a 100° day... of course, I did have the stock radiator, stock single electric fan, stock thermostat, etc. etc. etc. the whole time, so I don't know how bad it would have been with a large radiator... I'm telling you, 400s really suck... I'd much rather have a 305 TBI.
Seriously, there's nothing wrong with 400s. Most of the bad-mouthing you hear, like the other post, is from people who have never had one. However, for your budget, you're not going to be able to get much of a long block in any displacement. The difference between a $2000 motor install and a $3000 motor install is like night and day. Save up some more money and do it right, so you won't end up with an oil-burning, overheating, unreliable, short-lived piece of junk of any size.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Seriously, there's nothing wrong with 400s. Most of the bad-mouthing you hear, like the other post, is from people who have never had one. However, for your budget, you're not going to be able to get much of a long block in any displacement. The difference between a $2000 motor install and a $3000 motor install is like night and day. Save up some more money and do it right, so you won't end up with an oil-burning, overheating, unreliable, short-lived piece of junk of any size.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
#4
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Basically my build was looking like this:
Vortec Heads, Performer RPM intake, Holley 600 carb, 350, mild cam (262), headman shorty headers, semi truel dual exhaust (crossflow muffler with 2 in and 2 out), no smog. I am gettin a rebuild kit through summit with 9.73:1 compression and the usual goodies. anything i should change? maybe the cam? i want something very streetable, but fast.
Vortec Heads, Performer RPM intake, Holley 600 carb, 350, mild cam (262), headman shorty headers, semi truel dual exhaust (crossflow muffler with 2 in and 2 out), no smog. I am gettin a rebuild kit through summit with 9.73:1 compression and the usual goodies. anything i should change? maybe the cam? i want something very streetable, but fast.
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Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
I'd step up the cam a tad. The Comp Cams 268 Extreme has had good results in some mild builds that I've seen. Actually, suprisingly good results and the tests were done with Vortech heads. If I remember right it was dang near 400 Hp. It seems to be a winner for a mild setup. I would drop compression some too. 9:5 is more then enough with an iron head motor and small cam.
#6
the small stuff adds up quickly. i saw someone else post this and im gonna re-use it.
do it right...or do it twice.
save the money and buy damn near new everything. why re-use that old water pump that could go out next week. buy new. that old starter just might chip a flywheel tooth..buy new. radiator? heavy duty 3 row. buy new. thats just me...Id rather not have a rebuilt motor stuck on the road with my friends laughing after I dropped a load of money in it...when you have the opportunity to do it right now. my only suggestion on the motor would be to go with the 268 as suggested above...especially with the vortec heads. make sure the edelbrock manifold is the right powerband for the cam...I cant remember the two right off my head...I think they are...
sorry got carried away.
do it right...or do it twice.
save the money and buy damn near new everything. why re-use that old water pump that could go out next week. buy new. that old starter just might chip a flywheel tooth..buy new. radiator? heavy duty 3 row. buy new. thats just me...Id rather not have a rebuilt motor stuck on the road with my friends laughing after I dropped a load of money in it...when you have the opportunity to do it right now. my only suggestion on the motor would be to go with the 268 as suggested above...especially with the vortec heads. make sure the edelbrock manifold is the right powerband for the cam...I cant remember the two right off my head...I think they are...
sorry got carried away.
#7
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
i was planning on reusing the power steering pump, alternater maybe, starter maybe. The thing is, in oregon after 21 years i dont have to pass emmissions, so i have 1 1/2 years of not driving to work on it. i plan on a new tranny/ racing flywheel and stuff. what should i keep and what shouldnt i keep. i am a high school student that is why i am on such a tight sub 2000 dollar budget.
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#8
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
Seriously, there's nothing wrong with 400s. Most of the bad-mouthing you hear, like the other post, is from people who have never had one.
</font>
Seriously, there's nothing wrong with 400s. Most of the bad-mouthing you hear, like the other post, is from people who have never had one.
</font>
------------------
92 Camaro RS 5.0 5-Speed (Quasar Blue)
T-Tops
14" Open Air Cleaner
3.08 Posi-trac
Edelbrock TBI Intake
Crane cam
Ported & polished stock heads 3 angle valve job
HyperTech Chip
SLP Headers (Ceramic Coated)
UltraFlo cat-back exhaust
74 Dodge Dart Sport 360 (11.2 1/4 mile)
2000 Dodge 1500 Ram Sport
#10
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
after looking into everything and pricing everything, i am going with a Crate 350HO from GM. With a plain intake, carb, and exhaust manifolds, they produce 330 hp at 5000 rpm and 380 ft lbs of torque at 3800 rpm. Best of all, with headers and a performer rpm intake, i think i can further the horsepower closer to 350 and the torque maybe to 400 or so. Thanks for the help guys. Btw, this engine is only 2000 minus distributer, intake, carb, manifolds, torsion plate, and damper. Thanks again.
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Car: 1985 Z-28
Engine: a big one
Transmission: 4 spd auto soon to be a 6 speed
I love 400's. i am doing a trade with some 440 parts and getting another 400. what you have to remember is that they produce incredible amounts of torque, but i don't know how far you can rev them up to.
there is no replacement for displacement.
there is no replacement for displacement.
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