insanity213

I've been hanging on to my 84 Z28 t-top for close to a decade after thrashing the original engine. I've finally accumulated enough pieces in my garage to hopefully get started putting the old guy back together. I'm just looking for a sanity check before I start beating my head against this thing. I'm definitely an amateur mechanic at best, but have a bunch of parts, tools and a nutjob neighbor with torches and welders so I have no fear.

-84 Fbody - used to have an L69 / 5 speed which I de-computerized

-350 casting# 39700010 010. This was a rebuilt long block I bought from Discount Auto about 5 or 6 years ago before they were bought out by Advance. Its a 4 bolt probably from a truck.

-Vacuum advanced distributor from an late 70/early 80's van.

-Edelbrock Performer RPM intake/1406 carb/valve covers

-Rebuilt Turbo 350 trans w/ transfer case from a 1977 K series truck.

-Original driveshaft/rearend from the Camaro

I'm assuming I can just ditch the transfer case, find a tail piece for the tranny and get a drive shaft made up for it, or possibly have the original one shortened? Or should I be a sick, sick person and leave the transfer case for a granny gear

I don't plan on having power steering, AC, etc... I may need to do a smog pump if it won't pass emissions. Last time I couldn't get a car to pass I just filled it with E85 and snuck through, but if not then I'll have to add a smog pump. Other than that just a water pump and alternator on the front.

Some questions that come to mind...

I'm sure the radiator is shot. Any recommendations? The electric fan is still good, or should i get a clutch fan for reliability's sake?

Whats the best way to get that old 350 trans tied up to the rear end? Not just the drive shaft, but that stabilizer bar type device that goes between the trans and rear end?

The last tank of fuel this thing had was 6 gallons of 87 octane pump gas, 5 gallons of avgas cut with some amsoil and a gallon of denatured alcohol (I was young and stupid, but it hauled *** with that mix). Do I want to trash that tank or can I just give it a good rinse with some fresh gas. Its close to empty.

Mechanical or electric fuel pump? External pressure regulator?

Any ideas on a good automatic shifter that will fit in the hole where the manual was?

What do I do for motor mounts? The L69 block is long gone and I think I left half the mounts on it. I would guess the new truck 350 block would mount the same as the original 305?

I think thats all I've got for now. Thanks for reading.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Welcome aboard thirdgen.org.

Let's go down the list:

That block is a very common one. But, what heads are on it? If truck heads, they'll always hold you back (although you didn't really say what you plan on doing with the car when it's finished).

The output shafts for 2WD and 4WD transmissions are different. You have to completely disassemble the transmission to change it. You'd be better off trying to trade the 4WD TH350 and transfer case for a 2WD transmission.

The TH350 came in two different output lengths, 6" and 9". The 6" was typically used in passenger cars, and the 9" in light trucks & vans. The 9" version is the same overall length as the T5 transmission/bellhousing, so the driveshaft length is the same. But, a 6" output shaft version would need a longer driveshaft. The '82 & '83 3-speed auto and 4-speed manual transmission cars used that length of driveshaft, for what that's worth.

Since the TH350 you have isn't a good candidate for use in your 3rd gen, you might want to consider finding a TH700R-4 to put in it. The output shaft housing can be swapped if the tranny doesn't come from an f-body so you have a way to mount up the torque arm. Alternatives include a bracket that uses the TH350 output shaft housing bolts to provide a mount for the torque arm, or a swap crossmember and torque arm from TGO sponso Spohn.

The radiator shouldn't be an issue. The typical replacement is fine for a 350. Electric fan is the superior set-up, in my opinion.

Drop the tank and have it checked out. It might only need a cleaning and pick-up sock replacement, but I wouldn't assume it's okay now. Electric pump by or in the tank is the better set-up, but an engine-mounted mechanical would be fine for a mild 350. The Carter M6626 is a good choice. Since your car is an HO, it might already have an in-tank electric.

Automatic shifters don't use the hole in the tunnel. It mounts to brackets on the tunnel, with a pass-through for the shifter cable in front of the shifter. Some fabrication is probably going to be in order.

Most 80's SBC vehicles used the same engine-mounted clam-shell engine mounts. Just keep them straight left & right. They are also available new from the factory, but they are pricey. No difference between 305 and 350, though.

insanity213

I'm not trying to build a drag car or anything, I just want to beat around town with it.

The car never had an electric fuel pump, but I'll probably install one just outside the tank somewhere. I'm sure the old fuel lines are pretty well shot too. If I go with the electric pump do I need a fuel regulator up near the carb?

For the transmission, with the transfer case taken off it looks like any other TH350 without a tail piece. It measures 22" from bell housing to back of the transmission before the transfer case bolts on. Can't I just get the right length tail piece to hook up to the drive shaft I've got?

From what I've read I have the worst Chevy heads on the face of the planet - casting #462624. I hear they're very prone to cracking and are better off as boat anchors? Should I ditch them for something with a little extra performance, hopefully cheap

And I think my crankshaft is angry (see attached pic). Looks like a bad gouge in one of the lobes. How much will that affect balance? Should I change it before it thrashes the rest of the engine?

Thanks alot for all of the info you've provided so far, this site is great!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Always nice to know what the goals are.

Apparently some '84 HO's got the in-tank electric pump, and some didn't. I'd double-check that, though.

Which fuel lines? Unless you live in the Rust Belt, only the rubber lines need periodic replacement. Whether or not you need a regulator depends upon what electric pump you use.

No.

Vortecs are a pretty good choice.

I'm not sure "angry" is the right word. "Boat anchor" is probably a better description. I'd get a different crank.

insanity213

Fuel pump - I pulled the original engine from the car and it had the old style mechanical pump on the side of the engine feeding a q-jet. Both are long gone, so I'll go with a new electric pump.

This car sat outside in Florida for about 4 years. It was covered, but went through all those hurricanes in 04-05. I know the rubber lines are shot and I'm just paranoid about the metal ones.

Time to start tracking down a new crank and possibly some heads.

One last question if you don't mind. When looking for exhaust headers should I search for what fits an 84 Camaro or search by engine year? I'm afraid they won't fit in the engine compartment if I get ones that don't hug the side of the engine.

Thanks again,
Ray

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Guess what, L69's had both a mechanical pump on the engine and an electric in the fuel tank. I suggest you check for the in-tank pump.

Florida can be its own "rust belt". Seen cars there that rusted out from the top down.

An excellent deal:
http://www.sdparts.com/product/SD806...RPMAirGap.aspx
Sell your current intake manifold and use the one in the kit (the one you have won't fit the heads).

All 3rd gen chassis are identical. If you want ground clearance, the best off-the-shelf choice out there is the Hooker 2055HKR with their none-better y-pipe. The only thing better is TGO member Dyno Don's custom headers. Ceramic coating highly recommended. Get aftermarket cat back for the '86-'90 TPI single cat application and it'll all bolt in and support great power.