blindslide

i have a 84 camaro z28 w/ LG4 and 700r4....

im putting a 350 in from a truck, the guy i bought it from said it came from a truck, says it's a 4 bolt 350, had all the machine work done to the block, and has everything i need to assemble it. this guy even gave me a garret 60mm turbo that is bigger than my head, and the manifold and all the trimmings to set it up on the 350... for 500 bucks, i couldn't pass this deal up. all the parts are still in original packaging UNUSED. only thing i need to get is a water pump.

all the parts were there, and the guy said with the parts he has, i should be putting down at least 330 hp (without the turbo) and im pretty stoked to set the turbo on after smog... what kind of numbers will it push the engine too? (rough estimate)

now i have been searching and searching, but can't find much about how to get the surface rust off the crank and engine block. it has mild surface rust EVERYWHERE. it wipes off with a finger... but i was wondering if there is a solvent i could use to remove it. and also, should i paint the engine before/after i put it together? idk if the paint hurts the gaskets.

third, there is a lil dust rust on the inside of the cylinders also, what would i need to clean that out? same solvent? or wire wheel? what is safe to use?

how heavy will the engine be without oil? cause i live in a second story apartment, and it was hell getting just the block up here. and i will need to haul down to my buddies shop to install after i get it together.

all help is much appreciated, and thank you!l

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

First off, DO NOT put a wire wheel anywhere near that engine!!! You'll ruin it and have to get it machined.

Second, you are NOT gonna want to try and carry that engine down from a second story apartment by yourself. If you and a friend are a couple of Hulk Hogans or Arnold Schwarzeneggers, you'll be ok. If not, you'll struggle and possibly get hurt. Unless you've got an elevator. Put together, an SBC is roughly 400-500 pounds dry. Most engine cranes are rated to lift a minimum of 1 ton.

Third - to remove the rust, try a paper towel and WD-40. That works well for me, for more stubborn stuff, use some real fine steel wool or 2000 grit sandpaper with the WD-40. Rub very lightly, it should come right off. You don't want to scratch anything. Everything should be machined smooth with the exception of the cylinder bores. Those should be a bit rough, but with no deep scratches.

Fourth - to give an estimate on HP, we would need to know the specs of the cam, what exhaust/carb/intake will you be running, and is the block standard size or has it been bored? Is it a stock crank or a stroker crank? Also need to know the expected compression ratio. 330HP is easily attainable with a pretty stock SBC.

Fifth - Make sure you have some assembly lube/grease for the initial startup. Also, make sure everything is CLEAN. Nothing will destroy an engine faster than dirt.

Sixth - Painting it, you want NO paint on any of the gasket surfaces or inside the engine. Best thing to do is put everything together from the intake manifold to the oil pan. Tape up all the open holes and gasket surfaces and paint. Make sure you use paint rated for engines or high heat applications.

Seventh - Turbocharging is not as simple as slapping the turbo in and connecting the piping. You need to make sure the engine can handle the increased power that a turbo will create. Forged internals are usually the strongest. You'll also need to run a lower compression ratio to accomodate the boost without detonation issues. You'll need to use premium gas for the same reason. A good, free-flowing exhaust is REQUIRED for boost. you'll be creating more exhaust once the boost kicks in, and it needs somewhere to go. You'll also need an intercooler, blowoff valve, higher capacity fuel pump, and piping/plumbing. Depending on carb or fuel injection, you'll need a larger carb or injectors. If fuel injection then you're going to need to reprogram the computer as well to provide the proper air/fuel ratio and to best take advantage of the boost to make the most power.

Overall, sounds like you got a great deal there. Take your time and you'll have a great engine that will last a long time. Sorry for the novel!

blindslide

no thank you for the help!
my buddy is going to store it in his garage while i assemble it, and great tips on the build up, i kinda started looking around for ways to build the engine, but the rust problem had me confused, thought i was going to have to buy big money rust remover stuff.

as for the turbo setup, id be using a rebuilt Quadrajet 750cfm carb, (the one the guy was going to use for it), he already has the high pressure fuel pump... and various items, i would just need the intercooler, and a general idea on timing and fuel/air ratios ....

i will try to get the engine setup info tonight when i go start removing rust, and post up what it will have... im hoping this engine will be fun compared to the 305.

just gotta be easy til i can replace the 700r4

blindslide

also, as for switching the 305 to the 350, because i wont have the money for a transmission for about a month, will i need to change any shift patterns or anything? and will all my guages work the same?

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Are you keeping the computer controls? If not, then you won't need to worry about anything except the check engine light staying on. The engine will bolt right up to everything you have as far as engine mounts, tranny, and exhaust. Shift patterns are controlled by the engine load, rpm, and the throttle kickdown cable. They will adapt automatically, although it would probably be the same as the 305 anyhow. You will almost certainly need to adapt the fuel lines and the throttle linkages though. Best bet on the throttle linkages would be to find a 305 carbed car in the junkyard and pull the throttle cable and kickdown cable as well as the bracket that bolts to the intake manifold.