TurboM3

I found a good deal on a 350 it's a one belt has 90k miles on it and came out of a 95 Z71.

I was wondering what all would have to be done to swap it in being from a 95? Right now I've got an 84 Z28 with a carbed 305 (would like to stay carbed too)

also would I need to get a new intake manifold or would the one from my 305 work? thanks!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

There are two major differences between the '95 and '84 engines:
1) Rear main seal - the '95 is one-piece design, the '84 is two-piece. This affects the flexplate (assuming auto tranny), but if the '95 is 153-tooth (I don't know if it is or isn't), it will work fine with your '84 starter & transmission. If it's 168-tooth, buy a new flexplate for '86-'92 f-body application (about $45 or so).
2) Intake manifold bolt pattern - the '95 will have the center two intake mount bolts at 72 degrees, while the '84 will be all at 90 degrees. Since the '95 heads are crap, and the '84 305 heads are some of the best ever put out by the factory, seriously consider having the '84 heads rebuilt with 1.94" intake valves and new valve springs & retainers. If you stick with the 350 heads, you can either get an intake manifold made for '87-up bolt pattern, or modify your '84 manifold by elongating those holes so the bolts will line up with the heads. Another internal change is the '84 uses non-self-aligning rockers and the '95 self-aligning rockers, so if you use the '84 heads, use rockers of that type.

That's the biggies, although the '84 305 exhaust (assuming VIN code H) is junk and should be replaced heads to rear bumper.

TurboM3

Awesome thanks for that information. My 84 is a manual (i think it's a t-5 will need to check) so what difference does that make, if any?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You will need a flywheel for the '86-'92 f-body V8 application.

And pilot bearing.

TurboM3

Thanks so basically all I'll have to do is (and someone correct me if I'm wrong here) swap the flywheel from my 305 to the 350 and then get a new intake manifold to put my carb on the 350 and then reuse my old starter.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No.You don't have that: you have the flywheel for a 85-back F-bdy V8 application. 2 different things.

Throw the truck heads away, and use your 305 heads and intake.

Yes you can use your existing starter.

NAASBC355

just a side note not all 95 heads have self aligning rockers. I have seen more than my fare share of 193 casting heads with the small pushrod hole that guides the pushrods and the large hole for self aligning. I have yet to decode my any marking on the head what identifiers to use to tell the difference, but I wouldn't use the 193's for anything...period. If you want a good open chamber head 993's are easy to find, and flow well. As far as closed chambers keep what you have. As far as semi open chambers 186's but good luck finding a set.

~Couch

TurboM3

Ah crap that sucks also what all will I need to do to get my 305 heads on the 350?

TurboM3

nevermind i got it

NAASBC355

don't throw them away atleast take them to the closest machine shop and try to sell them

~Couch

TurboM3

Cool well I'm gonna pick the 350 up on saturday i'll probably get some vortech heads for it though that and the flywheel and a new intake manifold for my carb and I should be good to go. Other than that he says it just needs a new waterpump and thats it. Got the complete engine for $300 oil pan to intake has 90,000 miles on it only reason he's selling is because he hit a tree or something and the truck frame is bent in 2 places.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Never heard of them. Vortech superchargers, yes, but not Vortech heads.

I have heard of "Vortec" heads, though. What exactly were you going to get?

TurboM3

Ahh yeah Vortec heads with 1.94 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves (I think I've spent too much time around superchargers)

BTW I couldn't see how my 305 heads were any better than the ones on the 350 seems like the 350 heads would flow better...

NAASBC355

normally you would be right...but not those 350 heads

~Couch

P.S. get 062 vortecs the exhaust flows just a little better, and they look way cooler

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

Found here: http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Disc...3390/3027.html

POST 1
POST 2
POST 3

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If you are going to spend the bucks for Vortec heads, then I would suggest you consider something like this http://www.sdparts.com/product/SD806...RPMAirGap.aspx

Includes everything you need to mount them to a SBC block, and are upgraded to handle more lift if a cam upgrade may be in your future.

They also have non-upgraded kits if you don't think you'll be upgrading the cam.

TurboM3

thanks man thats exactly what I'll need!

NAASBC355

genralized... that info came strait from my flow bench, not some magazine. Part numbers are irrelivent in the real world. Once those heads leave GM the part# means nothing. I'm a professional engine builder and ASE Certified Master Engine Machinist...been open for a decade never once have i ever had to use a factory part number to get a factory cylinder head. There is more information in the last 3 numbers of a casting number for identification application and time span than any part#. Anyone that deals with Vortec heads for performance applications knows that 062's are the better choice. An experianced eye can tell right away when one's been altered, and even then not all alterations are a bad thing, furthermore there is hardly an alteration that can't be reversed to meet the demands of the application that you are working on. A little time on the seat and guide machine and you can have whatever configuration you want.

Those are 062's in the picture...hmm imagine that. If what you see is what you get thats a good deal over all.

If you end up buying used heads just look at the deck mating surface between the center two cylinders they always crack right there no matter which vortec casting you end up with. It will crack from the big water jacket hole in the middle throgh the hole for the first bolt you torque down throgh between the chambers to the other waterjacket on the exhaust side. If it's gonna crack thats where it will crack.

~Couch

TurboM3

Thanks. I just found a 1974 350 in good shape thats a little closer I might get it instead....if I can talk dude down off his asking price. He's wanting $900 for it!

TurboM3

I tell you what I know a couple of you guys know your way around a 350 so maybe you can help me answer this because I'm stumped.

This guy selling this engine says a 1974 350 4 bolt main is rare? Am I missing something here? I don't see what's so special about them.

Plus as I understand it a lot of 74 350 blocks had "The Lifter Bore Problem" too and were notorious for shredding cams.

I'm thinking this 350 is worth more in the neighborhood of $300-$400. Does that sound about right?


Here's the ad for reference:

"I have a 1974 350 4 bolt main motor for sale. It is still in the truck and you can hear it run. I don't know what the actual mileage is but the motor doesn't smoke or nock. It is a very tight motor. If you would like to hear it run then call me @ xxx-xxx-xxxx (Sean). Serious inquries only. No spammers or bullcrap. You know how rare these motors are so don't try to pull the wool over my eyes either."

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No, it's not rare; every under-powered 70s Chevy truck had one, except for the REALLY underpowered ones that got 305s, in the late 70s. The good trucks got 454s. So most trucks got what that one has. Probably a couple million of them, all told.

Very common and ordinary.

A factory 4-bolt setup isn't really particularly good for high-perf or racing type abuse anyway; that's not what it's built for. It's designed to help improve the reliability of trucks, under continuous low- to medium-RPM, high-torque duty. Not worth paying extra for, for a hot-rod.

Yes indeed, 70s blocks had AWFUL quality control in general. They had lifter bore probems, cylinder alignment problems, starter bolt hole location problems, bell housing flange and dowel pin problems, and the list just goes on and on. But, if you can hear the motor run, that helps take at least SOME of the guesswork out of it.

socal

I say $150 for a core and go up from there based on itscondition, but if its just a 350 out of a truck (4 bolt mains are common on trucks) i would say 300 running and it in decent shape no exsecive greas, dirt, ect.. anymore i would start pulling the intake and valve covers. I have a complete 350 l98 w 49k out of a 92z w all accessories, intake, ecm, 700r4, ect.. running and all i want is 1500 but cant even get rid of that.

TurboM3

Cool that's exactly the info I was looking for. I'm starting to think I might just hold out for this 383 my friend has. He's got $5000 into it and will sell it to me for $2000. The only thing that sucks is it will tear up my T5 and I would need to drop another grand on a 93-97 T-56 conversion it would take a little longer to get the money and everything together but I guess it's worth the wait.

socal

just wait and do it right and look at the t56 as money saved as it has an extra overdrive, 2g's for a build running 383 sounds like a deal

TurboM3

Yep I think thats whats got to be done. This car is gonna be badass dude.

NAASBC355

well if it's a 3970010 block those are getting more and more rare...not ZL1 rare or anything but harder and harder to find anyway. It's not exactly a diamond in the rough though. There are plenty of 87 and up factory roller 4 bolt main blocks out there that would serve the same if not better pupose that that 010 block can. If you need one for restoration purposes thats a little different, but if not then I would go with the newer roller motor.

~Couch

TurboM3

I just got the 305 running that came in it. Holy JESUS is this thing slow! Thanks for all the help everyone I aim to have a 383, Weiand 177 and T-56 bolted in it within the next month or so. In the mean time I think I'm gonna go ahead and gut it.