ChevyRS-305

i know GM has a 383 but it doesn't have the manifolds or anything. i was wondering where i can find a complete turn key carberated 383 stroker. if i cant find one do you think i could buy a 350 turn key crate motor from GM and have it machined to a 383 and then put everything back on the motor that was their originaly or would i haveto get new heads and cams, and of corse a crank, i know that. and is their a specific 350 block i should use or could i use any?

i plan on making it a twin turbo a while down the road using gail bank's complete twin turbo setup for a 350 block. i wonder if i could still use that on a 383 since its basicaly a 350??

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Turn-key 383 with headers for a 3rd gen - ain't gunna happen.

Turn-key 350 with headers for a 3rd gen - ain't gunna happen.

Intake manifold, carb, distributor, pan - sure. But, most of these packages (anyway, the ones people have linked here recently) have kick-out oil pans that don't work well for our cars.

Why is a complete package so important? Get the engine built the way you want it, add what it needs specifically for our chassis, no biggie.

Turbo later - wrong thinking. It needs to be built for the turbo up front.

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

If you deside to DIY I have the crank,flywheel, and harm.balancer

ChevyRS-305

okay so if i build this engine for a tubo right off the start, then i will have turbo headers so i will have a different clearnce than i would with regular headers, and why wouldnt a 383 or 350 work? alot of guys do it. and plus im going to get a new K memember from sphon performance. i talked to the guy at banks power today and he said they dont sell the engine itself only the turbo system but everything they use in their engine they got from summit so they sent me out a parts list today of everything that is in their engine including part numbers and i talked to summit and they are sending me a catalog with all their parts in it. so i should be able to poll it off. and as for the oil pan goes im sure i can find an oil pan for the engine that fits our chassis because they guys that have 3rd gen drag cars have different oil pans.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The issue isn't 350, or 383, or turbo; it's the "turn key" part. To the best of my knowledge, nobody has a turn key kit such as you describe for 3rd gens. You might be able to find a shop that would do the whole job (engine build, turbo install, tuning), but most people who have such cars did the work, or at least the design, themselves. Jay Leno has people do it for him - in fact, he has his own staffed shop. But, I don't know that he has any 3rd gens. Regular Joe's tend to do it themselves.

You might search/inquire on the Power Adder forum.

2fast4u92z

I am geting the ZZ383EFI and they say that is turn key. Comes with flywheel,computer,fuel pump, oh and makes 425hp. With a little bit I will have 500rwhp.

GM has carb motors. Hell they have a ZZ383 minus the EFI all you need is a intake,carb,and headers like the Stainlessworks 1 3/4 long tubes.

ChevyRS-305

the only reason that i wanted a carb is because its a real fast way to put a motor in a car without all the computer crap, but since im going turbo off the bat im going to go fuel enjection. i see it 3 ways now...buy a 350 block and make it a 383 or buy a base modle gm 383 and buy everything for it from summit(but haveto build it piece by peace and hopfully one day it will be dont) and add the turbo, or get the zz383 and put it in to just say i have a 383 and not a 305 and then later on down the road buld it for a turbo.

car_fixer

first if you are building a turbo charged engine, build a turbo charged engine. Dont use a factory block, use atleast a gm performance parts block i think they call it sportsman or something , its like 1800 bucks (not the 600 dollar replacement stock block) or dart, world something good, all those i tink are clearanced for a 383. you will need low compression pistons to run boost. this isnt a time to fool around and be cheap. you need to do alot more research than you obviously have. if you used a avg. crate engine, its probably about 10.5 to one or so, with 14 psi of boost its like 20 to 1 DYNAMIC COMPRESSION, will not fly on pump gas.
lets start with this question, how much do you want to spend?

ChevyRS-305

well im only going to run about 9 psi and im just about to say screw it and have banks send me the parts list with part numbers on it and use that as a guide. i hate shopping around and finding everything thats will work. and as a base engine im going to use the zz4 350 and say screw it with the 383

car_fixer

allright 9psi isnt bad, however i wouldnt use that engine to start with , it has hyperutectic pistions they are sensitive to detonation. get the list of what they use, see what pistons they use, that will give an idea of compression. you may be able to gather parts for less than the crate motor, especially if you then take it apart and change things, if possible pm me the list and i will give you some help sorting it out, dont rule out the 383 yet the torque will help overcome the lag, and more power to boot. you havent built many (or any ) engines have you? dont rush an engine build, it always costs more and usually takes longer.

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

just get a stock block 350 or 400 and replace the cast crap inside with forged (crank rods pistons) and dart pro 1 heads or something along those lines If you have a tpi setup swap to a stealth ram or mini ram or carb whatever you like better. carb is a cheaper route. but if you are getting the turbo stuff now make sure you either buy a blow through carb or send it off to be modded. and find a t3/t4 hybrid turbo (turbonetics turbos are really good) you could do all of this for about the same if not less than the banks kit. No need for $1600 block for 9 psi. If it will see mainly street duty the 400 would be more fun because of the extra torque. This won't be real cheap one way or the other. If you are going to add the turbo later and don't want to have to tear the motor all the way apart again make sure you gap your rings for the turbo.

ChevyRS-305

yea this will be my first engine that i will build or at least design. i have almost no clue one what type of compression or heads or realy anything i need i just know the basics but i know a 4340 crank of some sort is what i want an H- beam rods and the piston rings i was going to get from childs and alberts(what banks recominds) and all msd ignition, accel gen VII dfi electronuc fuel injection, and dfi 3 bar map sensor(what ever that is!!!)

car_fixer

ok how long does anybody think the boost will stay at 9 psi, and the reason i recommended an aftermarket block is that most of them are clearanced for strokers and it doesnt take long to spend alot on machine work, say he got a good 2 bolt block and wanted to put splayed mains in (recommended) then he would need the caps and hardware plus the machine work to install them and then line boreing, that would probably put him pretty damn close to an aftermarket block, and still be crap metal,plus 9 out of ten used engines will need boring or at the minumum honeing, and it would probably live longer with the better oiling in an aftermarket block, especially on the street, just my opinions but, price that machine work. I personally have a stock block one piece rear seal block with 900 hp, but it is drag race only, i wouldnt trust it on the street, also it wouldnt cool it self off well as it is mostly full of block fill, on an aftermarket block the walls are stronger, and available finished ready to roll with played billet caps if you want em. For a turbo engine you will want lower compression, did you find out what banks is running? that would tell you a safe number that has some research in it, you really need to have more of a plan, start with the budget, then examine the output you want, fuel injection in its own right is kind of expensive, plus the fuel system to support it isnt free either. also if you go for something that needs tuning is them some place reputable local? the basic engine is the dumb parts, but still are going to be expensive, if you dont have a block at all it costs about the same for a 400 as a 350, there isnt much diffrence in rotateing assemblies price wise,

royslsbry

i live in north carolina buy a lot of nascar shops and t and l engine development here builds a bad motor they are in stanfield nc they have engines listed on ebay and they offer 383 and 408 their engines are dynoed and come with a 12 month warranty 383 makes 420 hp and 408 is 530 hp and they will sell you a turn key engine if u want it checkem out

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

yeah T and L is a good shop to deal with. if this is your first build be prepared for a long wait unless you have alot of cash on hand. my naturally aspirated 406 build cost me about $5k and that was with a stock block and cast rods and crank and hyper pistons. Like car_fixer said $1200 was machine work. and it didn't need clearenced' and I balanced the rotating assembly at work. and put it together myself and that was using cast bowtie heads. you will want to use aluminum so there is more cost. The way you are planning you are looking at around $15k for your build alone and not to mention the suspension mods needed and the fuel system. So far the only "GOOD" choice I have noticed you are planning is the TH400 but then you sacrifice mileage but then again you listed the gv under/overdrive too but then there is another $2500 unless you are planning on over 1000 hp do yourself a favor and just go with a properly built 700r4 or even a 200r4 then you get better mileage and save some weight. but then again since it seems like you like to spend money just go with a 4L80E

ChevyRS-305

actually im going with a tremec t-56 6 speed trans with rst street twin cluthc, hays 20-530-billet aluminum flywheel 153 tooth and a lakewood 15020 blowproof bellhousing. im going to sell my th400 and convert my car to a manual. just another fun project. i need a manual to drift with before next drift season

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

why not just make it front wheel drive and build a freakin' civic motor with "NOZ" seems like a lot of extra cash blowing by on this one.

ChevyRS-305

for one you cant drift with a front wheel drive car. if i could i would use my 86 prelude

and why does everyone discredit the fact that i want to use a third gen Camaro for a drift car? it doesn't have to be used for just drifting. road cores,auto cross, and drag racing can also be a factor. look at all the other muscle cars they drift with like the GTO, mustang, charger. i thought third gen owners would like the fact someone wants to use a maro.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You have to consider drifting something worthwhile first.

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

that's what I was thinking I just really don't see the point to it. to each his own though but I think if you built it for drifting you could get by with the AutoX idea but drag racing wouldn't really work all that great just like with drifting the car has to be setup for it.

ryan91rs

iTrader: (1)

sorry the guys get kinda cranky sometimes. I have never seen it but i have seen an El Camino. I like the idea. Then again i'm young and i'm not am old school guy.
As long as you don't crash and make us look bad we will all support you. lol! at least i will.

car_fixer

well this is an interesting turn of events, drifting. I have to say i would follow the other american iron in the drift scene build a bad @$$ natraly asperaited engine, hell you could probably bolt an ls2 carb engine it there and have plenty of power for drifting, at least enough to learn with , and then it can be upgraded from there. and you can drift with fwd, just isnt as smokey and the engines arent bouncing off the limiters as much.

ChevyRS-305

yea you can drift with a fwd car i take that back. its called ripping the E-break and putting food trays under the rear tires. no traction what so ever but you put a big hold in the trays. McDonalds wont be too happy with you