spills

iTrader: (9)

I gotta pull my 383 out to tie up some loose ends (leaking gaskets and such) and I would much rather pull the motor/trans out as 1 unit. I guess my main question is this is possible right? I got a plug I can put in the trans tailshaft (T5, not 700). I figured pull the radiator and get one of those load levelers to tilt it back. Just wanted to see if this was even possible before I bought the load leveler. Thanks!!

AlkyIROC

For many people, that's the normal way to do it.

Pull the distributor first just in case it hits the firewall.

spills

iTrader: (9)

schweet, just what I wanted to hear. Dropping that T5 with a floorjack is a PITA. thanks dude

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I did that on my jast pull. just put the rear jack stands on a really high setting and lower the fronts. that also makes it alot easier. also take off the crank pully for a little more clearance

spills

iTrader: (9)

huh, never thought of raising the rear higher than the front. Guess that would make it easier.

You mean just the crank pulley, or the balancer as well? I took the pulley off as well as the radiator (condenser removed looong time ago), and it looks likes there some hella-room for me to work with on the front side

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

just the pulley on the balancer, no need to remove the balancer.

an extra set of hands are good to have when you do this, getting the trans over the radiator support can require a little manual lifting, and the nose of the car is VERY long. my engine hoist extends quite far, and still even with the nose removed, it wasnt quite long enough to pick the engine straight up,
but you can do it

spills

iTrader: (9)

last few tiems I did it I removed the hood, dropped the trans, then pulled the motor out. I was planning on taking off the hood either way, but do I need a load leveler, or can en extra set of hands be just as good?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

IMO it's FAR EASIER to leave the trans in. Unblot the BH from the motor, and just leave the trans alone, from that point on.

You'll see.

cooter26

iTrader: (1)

I can tell you going in together is a PITA but ut can be done, had to extend my hoist by drilling a new bolt hole and move the chain until the hook was almost at the end of the arm. Had 1 buddy there and had to call a second but we manhandled it in.
Call some friends that work for Beer is your best option.

spills

iTrader: (9)

I gotta pull the trans out either way, the guy that "resealed" the housing for me didnt do such a great job, so he said he'll do it for free if I pull it out.

Im not at the shop right now, but just remembering last time I removed the motor I dont see how it's easier to leave the trans in, or putting the motor back in with the trans still on the car for that matter. Im not saying its not easier, Im just saying I dont see how it IS easier. Can you explain that a little for me please?

cooter26

iTrader: (1)

Yea Im an artist

spills

iTrader: (9)

damn look at Picaso over there! lol, so what about what diablizzard suggested. Jacking up the rear and lowering the front jack stands doesnt make it easier to remove both?

cooter26

iTrader: (1)

Doing that will make it easier, its not that bad i was trying to be funny. try it out you have to get it to a 75-80 deg angle to get it out with the tranny attached.

ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

My car was even front to back when I pulled my motor (350) with trans (700R4). Only the distributor cap was removed. However, I had sort of an industrial grade engine hoist to use. I only hooked the chain on the diagonals so initial removal and final drop-in caused some foul language haha. If you don't rush though, it's easy without causing any dammage. The trans isn't that hard to lift up though, and you will have to lift it a tad. An extra set of hands is a real lifesaver.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

i put in my new engine, with a 6gt pan, and the TKO600 attached, nows that was a PITA, 3 people, 1/4" at a time and alot of yelling... ahh good times...

spills

iTrader: (9)

did you have the rear of the car jacked up? The first time I did it I didnt even have the car on jacks at all, and it wasnt that bad, so again I would ASSUME that it would be easier with the rear higher than the front

online170

I took off both front wheels, and lowered the car onto some wooden blocks with the springs uncompressed. I dont think raising the rear of the car will do much, you will still get the front lifting up.

You want to eliminate suspension travel in the front, and get it as low as possible.

I think wooden blocks or blocks in general work best. I put them right where the control arm meets the cross-member where it forms and upside down V.

This made my front discs about 2 inches or less off the ground.


MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FREIND TO HELP YOU.

I did this alone, and on uneven ground, and almost gotmyself killed a few times.

The oil pan will clear the car no prob, but the trans will have to be raised from the tailshaft, and swung up over the car. Make sure you leave some room for the stand to roll back about a foot so you can lower it onto the ground.

Take your time, and secure the hoist "hook" as CLOSE to the engine as possible, you dont want it to swing around.

I only did this once with the trans, and i did it with both front wheels on, the trans wouldnt clear the front, so i had to scrape it over. So the car needs to go lower. The second time i did it, it was JUST the engine, so not quite the same scenario.

spills

iTrader: (9)

did you use a load leveler? A friend of mine said I can borrow his, I dont see that it will be that difficult (famous last words)

online170

No i didnt.

If you keep the chains CLOSE as possible to the engine, its easiest. Its not gonna make a huge difference. Just make sure the hook is centered on the engine.

Both times i removed the carb.

1st time, i tied the chains to the exhaust manifolds.
2nd time, i didnt have exhaust manifolds, so i tied it to the engine HOOK in the front, and a starter bolt in the rear. The starter bolt bent, so use a spare one.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Ah, but you will....

Leave the trans in. Pull the motor. Then pull the trans. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I pull them out together. Also putting them back in together, I have yet to be able to line up manual tranny -> engine while under the car. I had to give up and pull the engine, mate them, then put them in together.

I use a plate that bolts on in place of the carb. Then only maybe 6" of chain. Removed the rad and alt/pwr steering pump. Then you just need someone to guide the tailshaft so it doesn't hit anything. I also remove the hood as well. I have to bring the crane in from a corner, front left lets say. It straddles the brake area. I remove that wheel.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I did it all with a 1ton hoist. took all the accesories off along with the crank pulley, took out the radiator only, left the trans lines on, and jacked up the back end and lowered the front. I had the front brakes a couple of inches off the ground, enough for the hoist leg to sneak under them. I had the hoist set on 1/2 ton and came from the pass side. when I got the engine close enough to the front I swung it to the front. I had no real problems and I did it my self. If you're going to do it by your self make sure that you have a cell phone with you just in case. good luck.

jacking up the back end just makes the angles a little better for it to be pulled out together