350 block cracked. Replace w/ used or rebuilt?
07-22-2007, 09:17 AM
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350 block cracked. Replace w/ used or rebuilt?
Desperately need some good advice before I make a mistake, thanks!
My L98 5.7 350 TPI w/ 140k miles in my 91 GTA has a cracked block and water got in the oil. Just got the car, and the old owner didn't take care of it, apparently letting it run low on oil, water, probably overheating, and didn't replace a leaking waterpump or leaking oil cooler hoses. I added oil and water and started it and ran for about 10-15 seconds - seemed to run OK, before I turned it off and saw the gray puddle of oil and water below. My questions are, should I get a refurbished engine (longblock), and if so, is a 2 bolt main OK? OR, should I spend more and find a 4 bolt main?
Alternately, for about 1/5th of that cost, should I get a used shortblock from the junkyard and take a gamble that an amatuer like me can find a compatible, working 350, with the same type of lifters and rollers, (?) that has some life left and will work with my heads, TPI, and bolt right in?
Advance Auto Parts wants $1,100, plus $200-$300 in assorted parts and gaskets, plus another $375 for the core (since my block is cracked) or about $ 1,775 plus tax for a refurbed longblock. It's a 2 bolt main, and comes with an 18 month warranty, unlimited mileage. This would be the easiest engine replacement for me to do, but as the most expensive, perhaps a waste of money, since (I've heard), 350's are pretty reliable, and I don't plan on ever racing or putting any performance parts on, short of exhaust headers or simple upgrades (no internal engine mods will ever be done).
On the other hand, I can get a 350 engine from a junkyard for only $135-$180, and use just the short block, putting back on my heads and intake and TPI. I've replaced a couple engines before on other cars, but had bad luck both times. In one case, an engine blew due to timing / carburator issues, and in another case, I got an engine from a front wheel drive car, into a rear wheel drive one, and the clutch linkage was never right.
However, I'm more experienced now, own more tools, and have a driveway to work from. If I get a new longlock from the auto parts store, should I buy a 4 bolt main, or would a 2 bolt main be fine? (I don't yet know if mine has a 4 or 2 bolt main) The Pontiac factory service manual seems to show a 2 bolt main in the pictures, but others seem to think they would have put in a 4 bolt main on a GTA, and I'd like to put the same engine in, for peace of mind and resale value later.
Again, I won't be really racing short of the occassional burst of speed a daily driver does,
and maybe going fast (read 90mph) on the highway once or twice a year. Again, I won't be modding the replacement engine. Also, I don't know how to rebuild an engine myself, so getting a used shortblock from the junkyard and putting in my own pistons, cam, crank, is not an option. I also don't want to have any machine work done, due to the cost and downtime that involves. I will barely be able to find top dead center, and get the timing right without help, so please don't suggest options impractical for me.
Currently, I have 90% of the work done that's required to pull my engine, and would appreciate a quick response. To reduce costs, it would be nice to rent an engine hoist just once. So, I could order a new engine, and put it in on the same day that I've got the engine hoist rented to take out the old engine from my car. This could be quicker, since I'd only have to swap my heads and a few things before putting the engine in.
Or, I can get a used engine from the junkyard (they provide a free hoist), put it in my truckbed, go rent an engine hoist, take the engine out of my truckbed, take out the old engine from my GTA, try to quickly clean the junkyard block, and swap my parts over, and install it in my GTA.
It's difficult to take out an engine, so I only want to replace mine once. The junkyard with the price quoted above, is 60 miles each way, and the vehicles get picked over quickly, so it's not practical to go there time and time again. Was there 2 days ago, and picked up some seats, power door lock motors, and a few odds and ends. They probably have about 300+ cars, but only about 5 third gen Firebirds or Camaros, and all their engines were either gone, or either 6 cylinder. Only exception was a 305 from a Firebird that someone had already pulled, but was layng on the ground for unknown reasons.
I saw some Caprices that may have 350's in them. One 1991 or 1992 had a clean body, but the hood wouldn't open. Anyone have an opinion on what year span of Caprices I should be looking for? For greatest compatibility, ease of removal, and best chance of getting a good one, should I be looking for lower mileage or newer ones???
THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR PATIENCE AND ADVICE!
My L98 5.7 350 TPI w/ 140k miles in my 91 GTA has a cracked block and water got in the oil. Just got the car, and the old owner didn't take care of it, apparently letting it run low on oil, water, probably overheating, and didn't replace a leaking waterpump or leaking oil cooler hoses. I added oil and water and started it and ran for about 10-15 seconds - seemed to run OK, before I turned it off and saw the gray puddle of oil and water below. My questions are, should I get a refurbished engine (longblock), and if so, is a 2 bolt main OK? OR, should I spend more and find a 4 bolt main?
Alternately, for about 1/5th of that cost, should I get a used shortblock from the junkyard and take a gamble that an amatuer like me can find a compatible, working 350, with the same type of lifters and rollers, (?) that has some life left and will work with my heads, TPI, and bolt right in?
Advance Auto Parts wants $1,100, plus $200-$300 in assorted parts and gaskets, plus another $375 for the core (since my block is cracked) or about $ 1,775 plus tax for a refurbed longblock. It's a 2 bolt main, and comes with an 18 month warranty, unlimited mileage. This would be the easiest engine replacement for me to do, but as the most expensive, perhaps a waste of money, since (I've heard), 350's are pretty reliable, and I don't plan on ever racing or putting any performance parts on, short of exhaust headers or simple upgrades (no internal engine mods will ever be done).
On the other hand, I can get a 350 engine from a junkyard for only $135-$180, and use just the short block, putting back on my heads and intake and TPI. I've replaced a couple engines before on other cars, but had bad luck both times. In one case, an engine blew due to timing / carburator issues, and in another case, I got an engine from a front wheel drive car, into a rear wheel drive one, and the clutch linkage was never right.
However, I'm more experienced now, own more tools, and have a driveway to work from. If I get a new longlock from the auto parts store, should I buy a 4 bolt main, or would a 2 bolt main be fine? (I don't yet know if mine has a 4 or 2 bolt main) The Pontiac factory service manual seems to show a 2 bolt main in the pictures, but others seem to think they would have put in a 4 bolt main on a GTA, and I'd like to put the same engine in, for peace of mind and resale value later.
Again, I won't be really racing short of the occassional burst of speed a daily driver does,
and maybe going fast (read 90mph) on the highway once or twice a year. Again, I won't be modding the replacement engine. Also, I don't know how to rebuild an engine myself, so getting a used shortblock from the junkyard and putting in my own pistons, cam, crank, is not an option. I also don't want to have any machine work done, due to the cost and downtime that involves. I will barely be able to find top dead center, and get the timing right without help, so please don't suggest options impractical for me.Currently, I have 90% of the work done that's required to pull my engine, and would appreciate a quick response. To reduce costs, it would be nice to rent an engine hoist just once. So, I could order a new engine, and put it in on the same day that I've got the engine hoist rented to take out the old engine from my car. This could be quicker, since I'd only have to swap my heads and a few things before putting the engine in.
Or, I can get a used engine from the junkyard (they provide a free hoist), put it in my truckbed, go rent an engine hoist, take the engine out of my truckbed, take out the old engine from my GTA, try to quickly clean the junkyard block, and swap my parts over, and install it in my GTA.
It's difficult to take out an engine, so I only want to replace mine once. The junkyard with the price quoted above, is 60 miles each way, and the vehicles get picked over quickly, so it's not practical to go there time and time again. Was there 2 days ago, and picked up some seats, power door lock motors, and a few odds and ends. They probably have about 300+ cars, but only about 5 third gen Firebirds or Camaros, and all their engines were either gone, or either 6 cylinder. Only exception was a 305 from a Firebird that someone had already pulled, but was layng on the ground for unknown reasons.
I saw some Caprices that may have 350's in them. One 1991 or 1992 had a clean body, but the hood wouldn't open. Anyone have an opinion on what year span of Caprices I should be looking for? For greatest compatibility, ease of removal, and best chance of getting a good one, should I be looking for lower mileage or newer ones???
THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR PATIENCE AND ADVICE!
07-22-2007, 10:20 AM
#2
Re: 350 block cracked. Replace w/ used or rebuilt?
Start here:
http://paceperformance.com/paceperfo...log/z00022.htm
The basic crate engines may slightly be out of yourTOTAL price range, but consider this, you may waste a couple hundred in gas running down all the various parts.
In addition, crate engines can be delivered to your location (figure $100 to $200 depending on your location).
PLUS, depending on your location, 2 to 3 days.
Biggest advantage to someone with your experience, they are new, not rebuilt, and have a warranty that matters.
The above recommendation is what I've given several folks in your situation. I'm not pushing Pace Parts. Scoggin-Dickey, or several others are very viable options.
Personally, I would find out what is cracked in your engine. Are you SURE your block is cracked and not a blown gasket (head, intake)? Could easily be a cracked head.
Our cars (thirdgens) are not all that rare right now. Give it another few years. I would hang onto the original engine (wrap it very well) and not use it as a core charge. Even if the block is cracked, most times a block can be repaired. If you later sell the car, that could help be a selling point.
Either way, while you have the time, get the radiator looked at.
jms
http://paceperformance.com/paceperfo...log/z00022.htm
The basic crate engines may slightly be out of yourTOTAL price range, but consider this, you may waste a couple hundred in gas running down all the various parts.
In addition, crate engines can be delivered to your location (figure $100 to $200 depending on your location).
PLUS, depending on your location, 2 to 3 days.
Biggest advantage to someone with your experience, they are new, not rebuilt, and have a warranty that matters.
The above recommendation is what I've given several folks in your situation. I'm not pushing Pace Parts. Scoggin-Dickey, or several others are very viable options.
Personally, I would find out what is cracked in your engine. Are you SURE your block is cracked and not a blown gasket (head, intake)? Could easily be a cracked head.
Our cars (thirdgens) are not all that rare right now. Give it another few years. I would hang onto the original engine (wrap it very well) and not use it as a core charge. Even if the block is cracked, most times a block can be repaired. If you later sell the car, that could help be a selling point.
Either way, while you have the time, get the radiator looked at.
jms
07-22-2007, 11:56 AM
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Re: 350 block cracked. Replace w/ used or rebuilt?
Start here:
http://paceperformance.com/paceperfo...log/z00022.htm
The basic crate engines may slightly be out of yourTOTAL price range, but consider this, you may waste a couple hundred in gas running down all the various parts.
In addition, crate engines can be delivered to your location (figure $100 to $200 depending on your location).
PLUS, depending on your location, 2 to 3 days.
Biggest advantage to someone with your experience, they are new, not rebuilt, and have a warranty that matters.
The above recommendation is what I've given several folks in your situation. I'm not pushing Pace Parts. Scoggin-Dickey, or several others are very viable options.
Personally, I would find out what is cracked in your engine. Are you SURE your block is cracked and not a blown gasket (head, intake)? Could easily be a cracked head.
Our cars (thirdgens) are not all that rare right now. Give it another few years. I would hang onto the original engine (wrap it very well) and not use it as a core charge. Even if the block is cracked, most times a block can be repaired. If you later sell the car, that could help be a selling point.
Either way, while you have the time, get the radiator looked at.
jms
http://paceperformance.com/paceperfo...log/z00022.htm
The basic crate engines may slightly be out of yourTOTAL price range, but consider this, you may waste a couple hundred in gas running down all the various parts.
In addition, crate engines can be delivered to your location (figure $100 to $200 depending on your location).
PLUS, depending on your location, 2 to 3 days.
Biggest advantage to someone with your experience, they are new, not rebuilt, and have a warranty that matters.
The above recommendation is what I've given several folks in your situation. I'm not pushing Pace Parts. Scoggin-Dickey, or several others are very viable options.
Personally, I would find out what is cracked in your engine. Are you SURE your block is cracked and not a blown gasket (head, intake)? Could easily be a cracked head.
Our cars (thirdgens) are not all that rare right now. Give it another few years. I would hang onto the original engine (wrap it very well) and not use it as a core charge. Even if the block is cracked, most times a block can be repaired. If you later sell the car, that could help be a selling point.
Either way, while you have the time, get the radiator looked at.
jms
I started off this project assumming the block was cracked, and planning to get a cheap remanufactured engine from Advance Auto Parts for $1100 plus $200-$300 in other parts. Since my block is cracked, I then learned that it isn't good for the $375 (!) core, so that adds further expense. So, I was still going to go that route, when I discovered that:
A) The Advance Auto Parts motor isn't a 4 bolt main, and mine may be (still don't know).
B) I always assummed that the Advance Auto Parts longblock motor with heads and my TPI would produce the very same amount of horsepower that my original engine did stock (325-345). If this is incorrect, Why? (If stock motor and new one have the same 350 displacement, but different horsepower, would it be due to lessor performance crankshaft, camshaft and heads???
If I go with a $135-$180 junkyard 350 longblock and try to use my heads and everything else, I would be happy if it just ran good, and don't care about the horsepower. But if I spend lots of money ($1,500+) on a new or remanufactured engine, I certainly wouldn't want to end up with less horsepower than original! Make sense?
From your Pace Performance catalog, link below
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...D&ProdID=84482
12499529 - 290/350 Crate Engine - New 12499529WnoNoLift
The ad for this $2,000 engine says that it's their "most economical performance 350 from GM Performance Parts!" Comes with free 48 state shipping. However, I'm not sure that it is the right ("best") cheaper motor for my 1991 GTA, as the specifications list it as having a standard, 1985 and prior intake manifold bolt pattern. Regarding the camshaft, it also says it has a mechanical fuel pump lobe (which is for older designs, as I have an electric fuel pump, though my stock engine probably does too, as it has a plate where an older fule pump would otherwise go). Also, that the Camshaft is a hydraulic flat tappet - but I thought I read on this forum that a roller type was better? Would I likely have a hydraulic flat tappet on my stock GTA motor? Again, if I'm not going to take the high risk with a junkyard short block, and if I spend more on a new or remanufactured motor, I want at least the same performance that my car originally had. 4 or 2 bolt mains aside, I thought Advance Auto Parts motor would have the same horsepower as mine originally, since it's for my particular car, make and model.
Also, I didn't know that it was practical / possible to weld / fix a cracked block, but I wouldn't have much faith in that, as mine has several cracks in one area. I guess I could keep the old motor on my engine stand, since I can't get a core charge, but if it definitely has a cracked block, wouldn't it be taking up valuable garage space? Shouldn't I just take off the heads and keep them (if I don't use them), and throw away the block? Opinions please.
Most of the people at the Advance Auto Parts are idiots. Only one guy there knows what's going on. I may run down there and see what he says about their cheap longblock engine - why I may or may not want it. Should they be able to give me a horsepower rating, if I use my same TPI?
Thanks for your help. I will look around and get more info. But I wanted to get my current reply out there while I do some more research. THANKS!!!
07-22-2007, 01:53 PM
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Re: 350 block cracked. Replace w/ used or rebuilt?
12510735 is a L98 shortblock for slightly under $900.
That engine will require slight modifications to fit into your car. Not to mention its a non-roller engine and a 2-piece seal.
Depends how expensive or how cheap you want to go. If you shop wisely and take your time browsing the used parts section of this site and ebay, you can probably build your setup pretty cheap.
Not to ***** my stuff, but I have a LT4 std cam and springs/retainers/locks I want to get rid of for about $120. Put these in that shortblock and your heads with a new chain, old cover and a new stewart warner pump and you should get out for relatively cheap.
That engine will require slight modifications to fit into your car. Not to mention its a non-roller engine and a 2-piece seal.
Depends how expensive or how cheap you want to go. If you shop wisely and take your time browsing the used parts section of this site and ebay, you can probably build your setup pretty cheap.
Not to ***** my stuff, but I have a LT4 std cam and springs/retainers/locks I want to get rid of for about $120. Put these in that shortblock and your heads with a new chain, old cover and a new stewart warner pump and you should get out for relatively cheap.
Last edited by vwdave; 07-22-2007 at 01:56 PM.
07-22-2007, 07:05 PM
#5
Re: 350 block cracked. Replace w/ used or rebuilt?
I have run "sleeved" blocks following a crack in the cylinder. Some blocks crack in the cylinders or in the lifter valley or on the outside. A good machinist can tell you if your block is worth saving, especially to a future buyer that may want a true numbers matching car.
Our cars did not make the power numbers you describe. 225 to 240 horses is stock depending on year.
As far as the correct crate engine, pick up the phone and call any supplier of your choice. Ask the questions.
That L98 short block sounded good. Maybe add vortec heads and the correct tpi intake and you will surprise many LT1s and perhaps an LS1 or two.
If you are afraid of assembling an engine and don't know of a reputable local mechanic, are there any oval track racers or drag racers near you? Ask around. Putting together a small block Chevy is easier than defragging a computer (at least to me).
jms
Our cars did not make the power numbers you describe. 225 to 240 horses is stock depending on year.
As far as the correct crate engine, pick up the phone and call any supplier of your choice. Ask the questions.
That L98 short block sounded good. Maybe add vortec heads and the correct tpi intake and you will surprise many LT1s and perhaps an LS1 or two.
If you are afraid of assembling an engine and don't know of a reputable local mechanic, are there any oval track racers or drag racers near you? Ask around. Putting together a small block Chevy is easier than defragging a computer (at least to me).
jms
07-22-2007, 10:25 PM
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Re: 350 block cracked. Replace w/ used or rebuilt?
Vwdave (or anyone reading) - What mods would be needed for the short block mentioned above?
jms (or anyone reading)- What did you mean by "the correct tpi intake" for the short block above? Do you mean that my stock TPI intake wouldn't fit on vortec heads, or just that a better TPI intake would have more horsepower?
Thanks everyone. Yeah, I don't know much about engines, so much so that I often don't even know the right questions to ask. Also, have had 3 bad experiences with shops - incompetent- had to take them to court to get my money back. Bad electrical troubleshooting, bad clutch job, faulty engine diagnosis and work. A good mechanic is hard to find - and most are busy and expensive. Now I find it hard to trust people with my car! Do you blame me? So, I work on everything myself. I'm good at replacing most parts, but still feel assembling an engine is pushing my abilities.
Regarding Horsepower - You're right - I'm new to engine specs and keep mixing up the HP value! duh. My 1991 GTA with the L98 350 came with 225-245 HP factory, so the 290HP motor I found at Pace Performance, #12499529 - 290/350 Crate Engine would be MORE than stock. But, I'll have to do some research. I don't think it's the right engine for my car, based on the 1985 and prior intake manifold bolt pattern, and the 1985 and older flywhel bolt pattern. It was just the first 350 ad that caught my eye on their front page, and I haven't looked yet at the short block you pointed to.
CAMSHAFT AND 2 or 4 bolt CRANKSHAFT MAINS?
1. According to the info I have in front of me, from 1987 on, "all V8's now received factory roller camshafts". So, this should include my 1991 Firebird GTA with the L98, 5.7lt 350 engine. Since I've read on this forum that a roller type is better than the hydraulic flat tappet type that comes on some replacement engines, I'm now wondering if I've got my facts straight? If mine came with a roller camshaft, (unless I go with a junkyard block) I will be trying to find a remanufactured or new engine with the same. Agree? (Again, I don't feel comfortable yet doing internal engine changes myself.)
2. I've also read that a 4 bolt main is superior to a 2 bolt main. Correct? I don't know which one I have, because the factory Pontiac manual has bad pictures, and I can't find that info in the text! Anyone know? In the next day or so, I will finish pulling my engine, put it on an engine stand I found cheap (my first) and find out for myself. I'm very curious, and don't want to buy a new or remanufactured engine that is less in any way to my stock one.
Thanks everyone. Guess I need to re-think my budget and needs / wants. I have $2,000 for this project, but I just thought that perhaps because I'm working with a 350, that I could get by for now and be happy with almost any functional shortblock from a junkyard ($135) to mate with my other good parts. That would give me some more experience working on engines and if I wanted more horsepower or longevity, I could then better build my own or buy a crate motor. Opinons? Thanks again!!!
jms (or anyone reading)- What did you mean by "the correct tpi intake" for the short block above? Do you mean that my stock TPI intake wouldn't fit on vortec heads, or just that a better TPI intake would have more horsepower?
Thanks everyone. Yeah, I don't know much about engines, so much so that I often don't even know the right questions to ask. Also, have had 3 bad experiences with shops - incompetent- had to take them to court to get my money back. Bad electrical troubleshooting, bad clutch job, faulty engine diagnosis and work. A good mechanic is hard to find - and most are busy and expensive. Now I find it hard to trust people with my car! Do you blame me? So, I work on everything myself. I'm good at replacing most parts, but still feel assembling an engine is pushing my abilities.
Regarding Horsepower - You're right - I'm new to engine specs and keep mixing up the HP value! duh. My 1991 GTA with the L98 350 came with 225-245 HP factory, so the 290HP motor I found at Pace Performance, #12499529 - 290/350 Crate Engine would be MORE than stock. But, I'll have to do some research. I don't think it's the right engine for my car, based on the 1985 and prior intake manifold bolt pattern, and the 1985 and older flywhel bolt pattern. It was just the first 350 ad that caught my eye on their front page, and I haven't looked yet at the short block you pointed to.
CAMSHAFT AND 2 or 4 bolt CRANKSHAFT MAINS?
1. According to the info I have in front of me, from 1987 on, "all V8's now received factory roller camshafts". So, this should include my 1991 Firebird GTA with the L98, 5.7lt 350 engine. Since I've read on this forum that a roller type is better than the hydraulic flat tappet type that comes on some replacement engines, I'm now wondering if I've got my facts straight? If mine came with a roller camshaft, (unless I go with a junkyard block) I will be trying to find a remanufactured or new engine with the same. Agree? (Again, I don't feel comfortable yet doing internal engine changes myself.)
2. I've also read that a 4 bolt main is superior to a 2 bolt main. Correct? I don't know which one I have, because the factory Pontiac manual has bad pictures, and I can't find that info in the text! Anyone know? In the next day or so, I will finish pulling my engine, put it on an engine stand I found cheap (my first) and find out for myself. I'm very curious, and don't want to buy a new or remanufactured engine that is less in any way to my stock one.
Thanks everyone. Guess I need to re-think my budget and needs / wants. I have $2,000 for this project, but I just thought that perhaps because I'm working with a 350, that I could get by for now and be happy with almost any functional shortblock from a junkyard ($135) to mate with my other good parts. That would give me some more experience working on engines and if I wanted more horsepower or longevity, I could then better build my own or buy a crate motor. Opinons? Thanks again!!!
07-23-2007, 12:26 AM
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Re: 350 block cracked. Replace w/ used or rebuilt?
vwdave - The 12510735 shortblock, the "factory replacement shortblock" specifically for my vehicle, is now unavailable through Pace Performance, even though its product page on their website says its the same shortblock that their crate engine 12513151 is built from, which is available!
Odd, but anyway, it is very close to the shortblock or longblock that I may want, if I buy new, so I thank you for your help. As you said, it's a non roller camshaft (has "provisions" for one) and a 2 peice seal. FYI - The Advance Auto Parts longblock 350 for my vehicle, at about $1,100 before $375 core, and $200-300 in misc. parts has a roller cam. Potential problems / negatives with it is it's remanufactured, (questionable quality control), $375 core charge (mine has a block with visible cracks on the outside, so they probably will charge) and I have to reuse my heads, which are nearly unknown condition, as I only heard the motor run for 15 seconds. Guess if I go this route, I should have them checked to make sure they're not warped or cracked too?
Again, I'm seriously considering a junkyard engine (and using just the shortblock, putting on my everything else). Pace Performance lists their shortblock as fitting,
"For 1990 - 1993 Caprice,1990-1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham, 1992 - 1993 Buick Roadmaster, 1992 Olds. Custom Cruiser With 5.7L (LO5-7) 1990-1992 Camaro, Firebird & Corvette With 5.7L (L98-8)."
So, maybe I'll go back to the junkyard, and, assumming no new Firebirds or Camaro's (or Corvettes) arrived with my 350, look for the above motor in a right year Caprice, Cadillac, Buick Roadmaster, Olds Custom Cruiser. In fact, given how Firebirds, Camaros, and Corvettes may be more raced (abused) than the other cars listed, they may tend to have a better condition engine anyway. Thoughts? Thanks again!!!
I will keep your cam in mind. LT4? What's that?
The
Odd, but anyway, it is very close to the shortblock or longblock that I may want, if I buy new, so I thank you for your help. As you said, it's a non roller camshaft (has "provisions" for one) and a 2 peice seal. FYI - The Advance Auto Parts longblock 350 for my vehicle, at about $1,100 before $375 core, and $200-300 in misc. parts has a roller cam. Potential problems / negatives with it is it's remanufactured, (questionable quality control), $375 core charge (mine has a block with visible cracks on the outside, so they probably will charge) and I have to reuse my heads, which are nearly unknown condition, as I only heard the motor run for 15 seconds. Guess if I go this route, I should have them checked to make sure they're not warped or cracked too?
Again, I'm seriously considering a junkyard engine (and using just the shortblock, putting on my everything else). Pace Performance lists their shortblock as fitting,
"For 1990 - 1993 Caprice,1990-1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham, 1992 - 1993 Buick Roadmaster, 1992 Olds. Custom Cruiser With 5.7L (LO5-7) 1990-1992 Camaro, Firebird & Corvette With 5.7L (L98-8)."
So, maybe I'll go back to the junkyard, and, assumming no new Firebirds or Camaro's (or Corvettes) arrived with my 350, look for the above motor in a right year Caprice, Cadillac, Buick Roadmaster, Olds Custom Cruiser. In fact, given how Firebirds, Camaros, and Corvettes may be more raced (abused) than the other cars listed, they may tend to have a better condition engine anyway. Thoughts? Thanks again!!!
I will keep your cam in mind. LT4? What's that?
The
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07-23-2007, 05:58 PM
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Re: 350 block cracked. Replace w/ used or rebuilt?
The 290 is crank horsepower. Figuring 20% losses that would have you in the 230 area.
You can get a non-roller engine which has provisions out of a pickup, suburban or a tahoe, put your roller items in, put a cam in it, and your heads, and it should be just like a L98. Just try to find something with low miles or you could be in the same position you are in now.
The LT4 was the big brother to the LT1 engine. Think Z06 in 1996.
If you want very specific information, just hit me up on AIM and I'll help you along.
You can get a non-roller engine which has provisions out of a pickup, suburban or a tahoe, put your roller items in, put a cam in it, and your heads, and it should be just like a L98. Just try to find something with low miles or you could be in the same position you are in now.
The LT4 was the big brother to the LT1 engine. Think Z06 in 1996.
If you want very specific information, just hit me up on AIM and I'll help you along.
07-23-2007, 07:12 PM
#9
Re: 350 block cracked. Replace w/ used or rebuilt?
[QUOTE=pentiuman;3407352]Vwdave (or anyone reading)
jms (or anyone reading)- What did you mean by "the correct tpi intake" for the short block above? Do you mean that my stock TPI intake wouldn't fit on vortec heads, or just that a better TPI intake would have more horsepower?"
Vortec heads need a specific intake for correct fit. Search on this site for many threads explaining this.
"Regarding Horsepower - You're right - I'm new to engine specs and keep mixing up the HP value! duh. My 1991 GTA with the L98 350 came with 225-245 HP factory, so the 290HP motor I found at Pace Performance, "
All the crate engine horsepower numbers would be at the flywheel with no accessories. Subtract 20-25% for true numbers as installed with stock induction parts.
CAMSHAFT AND 2 or 4 bolt CRANKSHAFT MAINS?
Doesn't matter at your projected power levels.
1. According to the info I have in front of me, from 1987 on, "all V8's now received factory roller camshafts".
Not all had rollers, but all could be easily converted using your parts.
jms
jms (or anyone reading)- What did you mean by "the correct tpi intake" for the short block above? Do you mean that my stock TPI intake wouldn't fit on vortec heads, or just that a better TPI intake would have more horsepower?"
Vortec heads need a specific intake for correct fit. Search on this site for many threads explaining this.
"Regarding Horsepower - You're right - I'm new to engine specs and keep mixing up the HP value! duh. My 1991 GTA with the L98 350 came with 225-245 HP factory, so the 290HP motor I found at Pace Performance, "
All the crate engine horsepower numbers would be at the flywheel with no accessories. Subtract 20-25% for true numbers as installed with stock induction parts.
CAMSHAFT AND 2 or 4 bolt CRANKSHAFT MAINS?
Doesn't matter at your projected power levels.
1. According to the info I have in front of me, from 1987 on, "all V8's now received factory roller camshafts".
Not all had rollers, but all could be easily converted using your parts.
jms
07-23-2007, 09:36 PM
#10
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Not the whole truth. Passenger car engines got roller lifters, trucks typically didn't. Those that didn't get the roller lifters had the casting provisions for the roller lifters and cam, but almost never were machined for them.
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