19Irocz86

well i have recently found a nice local speed shop that has nice parts. and its bout time to put the old 305 tpi down... here my goal i got a buddy with a super nice 94 cobra that runs 12.5. well i got to have something to beat him... he got one of the baddest cars around and its time i rule.

what is the best engine combo i can drop in my 86 iroc?? i am looking to run low 12 n/a and faster on the bottle... should i stay fuel injected or go carb. what block should i use etc etc thanks my budget is kinda unlimited by this means i get a check every week to drop in the car . i also wont the maro to be streetable when i get done.

another quick question is whould it be easier and cheaper to just trade my camaro for a lt1 4th gen or build mine up. which will break the 11's first 3rd or 4th gen

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Let's see, your current car:

383, AFR heads, Comp XE292 cam, Victor Jr. intake, Holley 750 double pumper; 3500 stall converter in front of built tranny, 3.73 gears and some traction help - that'll get you into the low 12's. Probably run you $5-7k.

4th gen LT1:

$1-3k difference between your car and the 4th gen, AFR heads or bucks to port the LT1's, big cam, EFI system upgrades, lots of PROM tuning, 3500 stall converter in front of built tranny, 3.73 gears and some traction help - that'll get you into the low 12's. Probably run you $6-8k above the cost of the car.

So, which sounds better to you?

19Irocz86

ill go with the first choice thanks but i am going to go ahead and convert to a stick shift while im at it

19Irocz86

what are splayed caps?? my local shop is selling a 400 sbc bored .030 over with splayed cap for 350 bucks is it worth it???

19Irocz86

anyone

zz4monte

The more cubes the better plus are you going to drive this as a daily driver because if you are your going to want 400 plus cubes anyway.You can do it with a 383 naturally aspirated but like five7kid said "compxe292 and a 3500 stall" that is a lot of cam for a 383 or a 400 for that matter if it is a car that has to be driven on the street everyday to work.Personally I would get a 400 and put a xe282 in but I like to have at least 14 plus inches of vaccum on my car for power brakes. If you run a 292 on the street with power brakes you will probably need a vaccum canister.

zz4monte

Sorry I meant comp XEHR 282 230 236 dur 510 520 lift or if you don't want to spring for the HR(Hydraulic roller) cam try a comp XE274 230 236 dur 487 490 lift. You will only get about 12-13 inches of vaccum with a XEHR 282 in a 383 and I am guessing maybe 14-15 inches in a 400. You could run a XEHR 288 with 236 242 dur 520 540 lift but vaccum would then start to get below 13inchs again.I have a friend who has a 86 monte ss with a 406 with a comp xe274 and vortec heads and he makes 430hp and 500+ftlbs of torque and he runs 12.2 in the 1/4 mile. If you ran a XEHR 282 with some AFR 210s I promise you will run high 11s with 450+hp easily if the car is set up right and it will be daily driveable.You can run a cam with a 240ish dur and a 3500 stall but it won't truely be "daily drivable",more like a weekend cruiser.

19Irocz86

thank u very much man i have been waiting and waiting for someone to reply
yea i was going with 210cc afr heads but i haven't really thought about a cam yet, but it wont be a long distance driver i might drive it within 10 miles of my house is the longest it will go. also what kind of intake setup should i go with fuel injection of some kind or carbrated??

zz4monte

Your either going to need something like the holley stealth ram or mini ram from TPIs if you want fuel injection with a cam with that much duration.This will set up back at least $2,400.Stock system won't use all the topend power.If you go carb. a 750-800DP for a 400 and a 750DP for a 383.Anything above the XEHR282 that I talked about you would probalby want a single plane even in a 400.If you run something like the 282 in a 383 I think a Performer RPM air gap from edelbrock would be a good choice.Basiclly if you run anything over 240 dur you need a single plane for sure.Edelbrock victor Jr. or something similar.Also you say that you only need to go about 10 miles from your house or so.Hell if that was the case I would put a solid roller cam in and adjust the valves every few thousand miles if you just ran it on the weekend.Solid roller will make a lot more power with the same amount of lift compared to hydraulic or hydraulic roller cams. I would run something like this. Comp. 280AR solid roller 236 236 dur 550 550 lift. That would be a wicked street setup with a 400 and some AFR to top it off.As for headers since racing is more of a concern then daily street driving 1 3/4 for both size engines with true dual exhaust. I assume you understand that you will never pass emissions with all this?

19Irocz86

yea i am going with the 400 bored 0.30 over with splayed caps i havent decided to destroke it or keep it a 406, also what whould u suggest for the the bottom end kenneth bell pistons?? or all forged eagle internals??? yea this will be a weekend warrior. im shootin for atleast 12 sec n/a or faster but im going to build it to hold atleast 250 shot but i will run a 150 shot, me and a good freind of mine are partners in build the roc beast, hopeing to get recognized so were going to get all we need. i will pay the extra money and let bb&t put the bottom end together and plastigauge and etc etc things to it to make sure it holds together. I whould like to keep my powerbrakes but i will lose them for more power if i have to. also i must have my power steering if new any one who makes a stronger steering pump for a 3rd gen.

and the emissions is not a concern, this is a all out beast

zz4monte

For the power you want plus spray your looking at 450hp on the lowest side of naturally aspirated and 600 on the low side with spray.Your going to have to have all forged parts for any longevity.Also another option is a big block.You say money is no problem but I know there is a limit.You could build a nasty big block say 550-600hp and still drive it on the street.Plus big block parts can take alot more abuse then small blocks.Alot of factory parts are good for 700hp if the motor is balanced correctly.Another problem is your going to need a 12bolt rear or 9inch.You are also going to need a extreme built 700r4,which I am not sure if it will still handle all that power and serious suspension mods.Your looking at $10,000 at least just in parts. I bet if you use the parts your talking about (AFR) things like that.At least 4-5k for the motor then a 700r4 that could handle that kind of power will run 2k from a professional like Pro-built etc.Moser or currie also looks like it is in your future for a 12bolt or 9in.Thats another 2-3k.Hell I have not even got into the suspension yet.I would build the rear,tranny and suspension before I did the motor.Good luck.

19Irocz86

yea i got a budget im far from rich, but what i meant was i dont have cash set amount to spend just weekly checks. i have already planned a new rear end but i havent decided on trans?? either ill stay auto or go manual what u think?? and on a scale from 1 to 10 how hard is a bbc swap. and how much more is a bbc to build to a small block???

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Splayed caps are main bearing caps in the 3 middle positions with 4 bolts for each cap. Unlike the factory version of 4-bolt main caps, the outer two bolts are at an angle so that the bolt hole goes into more "meat" of the casting. On factory 4-bolt blocks, the outer bolt holes reduce the material supporting the main bearing, so starting with a 2-bolt main block and machining for these "splayed" caps makes the main bearing supports stronger.

$350 is a pretty good price for a .030"-over 400 block with splayed caps. I assume that is a bare block. It would only be worth it if the shop guarantees the block to be usable at .030"-over, and crack-free throughout.

zz4monte

I would stay auto.Either a built turbo 350 or if you need it a turbo 400 would most certainly handle the power built-up.700r4 would be better for street driving but I dont know if it could handle the type of power you are talking about.Plus turbo 350 and 400s are way cheaper to build.As for the big-block build up you can do a search about it.There is alot of info for your car about this on this website.I plan to put a big block in in the next few years,but for know I am happy with the zz4. Lets put it this way.If you want more power and more driveablity bigger cubes is always better.The only way around cubes is spray or forced induction.This is just an example.You can build a budget built 454 with 500hp for not more than arond $3000 bucks but this is stock heads that are pocket ported and a good size cam with 230+duration.Try to get 500hp out of a 350 and drive it on the street everyday.Plus the torque is what always makes me grin when I get in a big-block.550ftlbs of torque is made on some of these budget big blocks form 3000-5000rpm.They have a $hit load of torque and torque is what wins races and torque is what is fun in a street rod.Go drive in a car with a mild big block that revs to 5500 and then drive in a 350 that revs to 6500+ and you will see what I mean.There is just so much more power potential when you have that many cubes. Basiclly you can just reach your goal in power without getting as crazy on expensive heads and huge camshafts.Plus alot of factory big block parts can take a 200 shot just because the internal parts are so much bigger and stronger.Alot of guys at the car shows around here have 396 or 454 or whatever in cars.I asked them what they have done and alot of the guys with 454s have stock heads with some porting and a aftermarket cam plus a 150 shot on top of it and the motors are all factory parts.Alot of them use reconditioned rods and cranks with no problems.

84L69TA

No offense...but this really sounds like a project that will never get completed.