super_nova_71

Hey guys,
I'm a noob! have been for some time now.
Was surfing the site trying to find what is the easiest way to remove the motor.
Do you pull it out the top

or drop out the whole front end?

Aaron

z28b88

pull from top...easier if you drop tranny first then pull motor.... but if your in no big hurry and really want to u can remove the whole front end if ur worried bout something slipping and hitting...but i would just pull from top

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

I disagree, it would be much much easier to shoe horn the engine and tranny out at the same time.... especially if you have an automatic.
If you remove the radiator and jack up the rear a little it will come out in no time... shouldnt take you more than 2 hours to remove everything together.

wesilva

iTrader: (35)

Another vote for pulling the motor and tranny together out the top. First pull the distributor, so it doesn't get banged and broken. Drain the tranny fluid. When it tips, it will begin to drain out the tail shaft and make a mess. I like to wrap a towel around the tailshaft so it won't poke a hole in the evaporator housing for the air conditioner. It's made of fiberglass and is easily punctured.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

i know you said you were a newbie at this, apparently if you are going to ask a question such as this you have probably no idea how to pull a motor... i am not knocking on you. all i am saying is there is a couple things you need to do to make life alot easier on you.
take pictures before you pull the motor.... alot of them... every angle...
get some masking tape and label every single connector... everyone one...
If you take a bolt off something, to disconnect a bracket or part, thread it back in original spot or use parts bags (ziplocs)
The first time a pulled a motor it was catastrophic... i put every single bolt in one box... it was a nightmare...
If you have an AC compressor do not disconnect the lines, remove it from accessory brackets and pull it aside, so you dont have to work about leaks or refilling it.
i hope this helps

wesilva

iTrader: (35)

The bagging of parts and AC ideas are great even if you're not a newbie.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

i keep all my part bags labeled and catagorized into sections... i have little bins and keep the bags straight up like a filing cabinet... i have so many parts organized from multiple parting outs i could make a thirdgen store lol

super_nova_71

Thanks for the info. However, this would not be the first motor i've ever pulled. It would be my first 3rd gen. Re built a few motors, 70 chevelle,71 nova (complete car re build) 91 jeep cherokee.

Here is a good tip. paint your garage floor with the cement epoxy paint. A few years back I pulled the motor out my my cherokee, and I had the exon valdese oil spill in my garage. Some simple green and a paper towles, we were good as new!

Aaron

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

If you are experianced then why would you even create this thread
This isnt a minivan

CG_1985_Z28

hey, i am about to pull my motor and trans... i was gona pull off my 5 speed first than lift the motor straght up. ill let u know how it goes.

super_nova_71

Good question.
The engine compartment looks crampt as hell, Fbodies have to drop the front end off- or at least that what I seen on hot rod TV. I didn't want to assume that it would be the same for a thirdgen. So I asked the question.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

Its only recommended for 4th gens due to that crappy firewall that covers half the engine just about... thats how I installed an ls1 in a firehawk... you can do it from the top but im lucky enough to have a lift.... so much easier.... 3rd gen, from the top easy as pie

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The typical cherry picker engine hoist is too short to get the engine/tranny out from the front because the chain attach balance point is too far back. Engine alone, no problem.

I've found putting the hoist on the side with that wheel removed is easiest on paint & such for engine/tranny together pull/stab.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

you have got to get the hoist with the crank on it so you can use the adjustable lever.... makes the job 30 miniutes faster

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

"Load leveler".

The back of which catches the cowl lip when jacking the engine in or out.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

yeah, thats what it's called... takes 10 minutes to shoe horn an engine and tranny in a car and put the two mount bolts in with a load lever... best $50 I had ever spent