BAD 305 to BAD 360!
01-29-2006, 10:20 PM
#1
BAD 305 to BAD 360!
most of you know that i built a "hoss-daddy" 305 a few years back and actually managed to get it down into the low 13's while keeping it very streetable (you can read more on how to do that by clicking on the link in my sig).
the 305 gave up the piston ring lands in the #7 cylinder last october so i went ahead with my new motor plans.
let me know what you think!
350 .060 over
10.2:1 c/r
113 casting aluminum l98 heads w/ mild bowl work
xe274h cam (.490/.490 230/236 on a 110lsa)
a worked over holley 750double pumper
holley street dominator intake
the 305 gave up the piston ring lands in the #7 cylinder last october so i went ahead with my new motor plans.
let me know what you think!
350 .060 over
10.2:1 c/r
113 casting aluminum l98 heads w/ mild bowl work
xe274h cam (.490/.490 230/236 on a 110lsa)
a worked over holley 750double pumper
holley street dominator intake
01-30-2006, 11:00 PM
#3
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Car: 1982 - Z28
Engine: 350 / CCC Q-Jet
Transmission: THM-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt - 3.73
mw66nova,
Hope to see that car in person some day soon. You going to the F-Body Gathering in Marietta this spring?
Kurt
Hope to see that car in person some day soon. You going to the F-Body Gathering in Marietta this spring?
Kurt
01-31-2006, 09:01 PM
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Car: 1982 - Z28
Engine: 350 / CCC Q-Jet
Transmission: THM-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt - 3.73
Originally posted by mw66nova
i'm going to try to be there, i'll definitely be at the f-body shootout in reynolds on the 19th of march though...are you considering coming down?
i'm going to try to be there, i'll definitely be at the f-body shootout in reynolds on the 19th of march though...are you considering coming down?
I'm not a Georgia Native and I don't actually know where "Reynolds" is located. Derek and I are also not familiar with most of the events that take place in GA. We're hoping to get very involved with ACFA (Atlanta Camaro and Firebird Assoc.) starting again this month. The last time I went alone as Derek had a Boy Scout event. I was kinda embarassed as the Z-28 looked pretty homely next to the other rides. We're still not going to win any beauty contests but we won't have to hide if anyone asks who owns our car.
Do you have any web-links to this event in Reynolds? I'm going to do a map-quest and try to figure out where it is.
Kurt
01-31-2006, 09:48 PM
#6
www.gafba.com
that's the georgia f-body association's website. Reynolds is about 45mins southwest of macon....off of HWY 96. i believe there may be directions on the GAFBA site....oh yeah, the GAFBA is sponsoring this shootout. it's gonna be AWESOME!
that's the georgia f-body association's website. Reynolds is about 45mins southwest of macon....off of HWY 96. i believe there may be directions on the GAFBA site....oh yeah, the GAFBA is sponsoring this shootout. it's gonna be AWESOME!
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02-01-2006, 07:14 AM
#9
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man you guys talk about matts camaro like it is not an impressive car. how can you refer to a car that was built on a budget, like most of our cars. as a thing. I take offence to that and it isnt my car. I have see this car in person and it is very nicely done. oh and on the times i think you all will be suprised, matt seems to have the touch for the tuning thing. i hope to see you at the track matt. we need to get there befor the meet so i can get some practice shifting the new tranny. lol GREAT JOB MATT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
02-01-2006, 10:09 PM
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Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: th350
Ya he is good. Me and my friends are gona try and make it up there for the fbody meet. If my car is done that is.
02-02-2006, 03:14 PM
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Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 5.3 76mm
Transmission: Rossler TH400, PTC converter
Axle/Gears: Strange 12bolt, 3.08s
Im guessing that you should hit some mid to low 12's depending on how you hook 
How many cams has it gone through? What kinda of rockers are you using? What are the specs on the springs? Are you using new lifters each time?
On some more aggressive cams, ive used the 1.3 roller rocker trick, and ive also used some light stock springs for the initial break in, then swaping to the required spec. The stock springs had to be check of course for lift clearence, usually i just modified the retainer, and installed them at a taller height. I have yet to flatten a cam
out of the 8 i have put in small blocks that were xe274 specs or larger.
How many cams has it gone through? What kinda of rockers are you using? What are the specs on the springs? Are you using new lifters each time?
On some more aggressive cams, ive used the 1.3 roller rocker trick, and ive also used some light stock springs for the initial break in, then swaping to the required spec. The stock springs had to be check of course for lift clearence, usually i just modified the retainer, and installed them at a taller height. I have yet to flatten a cam
out of the 8 i have put in small blocks that were xe274 specs or larger.
02-02-2006, 03:42 PM
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What kind of block are we talking about here? If it is one of the 70s blocks, like a 3970010, they are famous for eating cams. Some of those blocks have lifter bore issues, out of alignment. They will eat cam after cam. Quality control really sucked then. It may be worth it to have it checked out, at least.
02-02-2006, 05:17 PM
#17
it is an 010 block, but this is not the first time we have used it.
roller rockers were a 1.5:1 ratio crane energizer aluminum roller rocker, however, i'll be going to a comp pro-magnum 1.52 ratio roller rocker.
the lifters were new each time with the cam...bought as a package
valve springs were the recommended comp p/n 981
comp said i needed to use some rotella grade oil 15w40, though it was never mentioned in the instructions included with the cam, only that i was NOT to use a synthetic. i'm gonna call
this motor has had two of the same cam in it, however the first was hurt by my doing as i installed it wrong (lined up the timing dots incorrectly)...the motor was fully disassembled, flushed, and reassembled before the new cam went in though.
roller rockers were a 1.5:1 ratio crane energizer aluminum roller rocker, however, i'll be going to a comp pro-magnum 1.52 ratio roller rocker.
the lifters were new each time with the cam...bought as a package
valve springs were the recommended comp p/n 981
comp said i needed to use some rotella grade oil 15w40, though it was never mentioned in the instructions included with the cam, only that i was NOT to use a synthetic. i'm gonna call
this motor has had two of the same cam in it, however the first was hurt by my doing as i installed it wrong (lined up the timing dots incorrectly)...the motor was fully disassembled, flushed, and reassembled before the new cam went in though.
02-02-2006, 07:11 PM
#18
02-02-2006, 10:00 PM
#20
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use a set of old stock small block springs to break it in. Then switch to the 981's. Use Shell Rotella oil like comp recomended and use a can of GM EOS for breakin.
use molly disulfide grease on all lobes and lifter bottoms.
You should be using a solid lifter mechanical cam for the way you use the car.
use molly disulfide grease on all lobes and lifter bottoms.
You should be using a solid lifter mechanical cam for the way you use the car.
hope the next one works out.
02-03-2006, 12:28 AM
#22
Originally posted by F-BIRD'88
You should be using a solid lifter mechanical cam for the way you use the car.
You should be using a solid lifter mechanical cam for the way you use the car.
what would the break-in procedure be for a solid lifter cam?
what cam would you suggest...can you tell me a little bit about what i would need to do for upkeep on a solid lifter cammed car that gets to see a bunch of street miles?
Last edited by mw66nova; 02-03-2006 at 01:41 AM.
02-03-2006, 06:12 AM
#23
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solid lift cams need to be adjusted all the time. well that is want i have been told, i have never use one just for the reason. I have alway used my cars on the street and a solid lift cam isnt freasable, when you will be diving it as much as you will be, but like i said i ahve never used on so i am purely going by other peoples recomendation to me when i was building my 72 vega 350 car. well hope this help alittle matt.
02-03-2006, 01:21 PM
#25
i'm switching to a solid cam for the summer and basically you just need to adjust them every now and then. I really wouldn't mind adjusting them once a month with passes to the strip every weekend, considering it doesn't take more than 15 minutes to adjust all the valves anyways and I've spent more time in pulling the carb and changing jets than adjusting valves.
02-03-2006, 05:44 PM
#26
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Solid mechanical cams have been used by the factories on many engines in the past. Even stock bread and butter ones like chryslers old 225 slant six of the 60's ( the big leaning tower of power) 
valve adjustment was a tune up item just like plugs points and cap and rotor. Usually twice a year.
Factory muscle cars with the highest output v8's also used solid lifters ( early 426 hemi, 396-375-427-427-454-450HP
283 and327 corvette motors and 67 71 Z28's had em.
Same with the high output Ford small blocks and big blocks of the muscle car era.
recomended adjustment was every 5000 to 8000miles.
I have had many motors with solid lifters. I would usually adjust the lifters a few times over the summer driving season.
A motor with a solid lifter cam that always always needs adjustment indicates a problem in the valve train or a poor design.
generally you need to adjust the valve lash soon after initial break in and then periodicly ...
Any one who feels they need to adjust the lash all the time does not know how to adjust lash properly or has a severly mismatched valvetrain or are getting severe component wear.
Set the valve lash "Hot" I warm up the motor and do one side at a time using the imtake closing exhaust opening method. takes me about 15 minutes total.
Setting the rockers with poly locks thats a bit of practice but once you get the hang of it, it becomes second nature.
Do not try to set the lash with the motor running. Warm it up and do half ( one side) and then warm it up again and do the other cylinder bank.
I set the inital lash cold setting about .002" tighter than spec to get a accurate hot lash setting initially.
the engine expands and lash increases as the motor gets hotter.
you can vary the lash some to get more torque ( looser) or more top end power (tighter) A cam that calls for a tight leash setting ( "tight lash design" can go from about .012" to about .018" . A cam that calls for a .022 to .028" lash setting can be set to about .018 to about .030" varience.)
the tuning effect is mild but effective.
Tighter lash setting make the valvetrain a little quieter at idle than looser settings. If you go too loose on lash the lifter will be opening past the cams "clearance ramps"
the valve train will be very noisey at idle and cam life will be shortened. Don;t go more than .008" looser than spec.
When the valve train is lashed correctly it will have a mild "busy mechanical sound" at idle. Kind of cool sounding.
ya definatly know ya got someting going on under the hood. If the valve train is very noisy, ya did it wrong.
My present XE 284H hydraulic cam is more noisey @ idle than some mechanical cams I've run in the past.
A solid lifter cam can and is designed with a more agressive lobe and will rev higher and make some more power than a equal hyd design. (no lifter pump up.)
generally you want to select a solid cam with about 6 to 10deg more duration than you would a hyd because the little bit of lash in the valvetrain reduces actual running duration some.
A hyd cam is a bit of a compromized design favourting a quite valvetrain at idle. The tradoff is limited rpm and lobe lift intensity. If you rev beyond about 5500 5800 a solid cam will make more power and when poperly selected make more low- mid torque too.
Big block chevys really like a mechanical cam valvetrain cause the valves are so heavy. Big difference above 5200rpm.
if you want to go fast( er) and don;t mind the periodic lash adjustments (a few times a season) A solid cam is a good way to get some more performance. The sound is definatly cool. the motor will tend to be more responsive overall.
A 235 to 244 @.050 solid cam makes a good street performance/ drive it to the strip setup. will buzz well past 6000rpm without a sweat. Should have a 2800-3500stall and some gear. A 250-260 cam is a good radical street/ bracket grind. usually ground on 106-108 LSA wants open headers and 3500 stall, compression and gearing. ( the motor likes to rev.) easy 7200rpm A 262+duration cam is getting into a real race cam wanting a race intake, high compression big headers and lots of rpm.
7500+rpm dosen;t like the low end at all. beyond that your into a full race setup. need ing a max race valvetrain and 8000+rpm Cam life will be shortened cause of the spring pressure and rpm required.
Modern solid cams give near- sometimes more roller cam performance for a lot less $$$.
Modern solid cams are not hard to live with at all.
back in the day some of the old race setups were sort of unstable and put a lot of stress on the valvetrain.
Springs, rockers studs etc etc.
A motor that couldn;t keep a lash setting indicated a overstressed valvetrain. ( bad or mismatched design)this is where the bad reputation came from. If you follow the manufactures valvetrain recomendations for the cam you want you won;t have problems at all.
I like Isky cams when it comes to using a more radical solid cam. Isky Cams always seem to work very well.
Lunati and Crane make good stuff too. Don;t feell you are limited to what is in the catalog. A custom ground solid cam cost the same as a off the shelf grind. a Cam lobe design that really yanks the valves around needs a premium valvetrain. A street motor does not always need to have the most radical yank the valves open and close design that a max race design calls for. All the popular manufactures have good solid cams that will make more power than a hyd and will last a long life.
what is the actual stall speed you see on the tach when launching the car on slicks that your'e getting with the new 350 motor? Do you like a rough idle? are you willing to change to a larger dual valve spring or do you want to stick with the comp 981's? Do you run it "capped up" or open exhaust at the track?
valve adjustment was a tune up item just like plugs points and cap and rotor. Usually twice a year.
Factory muscle cars with the highest output v8's also used solid lifters ( early 426 hemi, 396-375-427-427-454-450HP
283 and327 corvette motors and 67 71 Z28's had em.
Same with the high output Ford small blocks and big blocks of the muscle car era.
recomended adjustment was every 5000 to 8000miles.
I have had many motors with solid lifters. I would usually adjust the lifters a few times over the summer driving season.
A motor with a solid lifter cam that always always needs adjustment indicates a problem in the valve train or a poor design.
generally you need to adjust the valve lash soon after initial break in and then periodicly ...
Any one who feels they need to adjust the lash all the time does not know how to adjust lash properly or has a severly mismatched valvetrain or are getting severe component wear.
Set the valve lash "Hot" I warm up the motor and do one side at a time using the imtake closing exhaust opening method. takes me about 15 minutes total.
Setting the rockers with poly locks thats a bit of practice but once you get the hang of it, it becomes second nature.
Do not try to set the lash with the motor running. Warm it up and do half ( one side) and then warm it up again and do the other cylinder bank.
I set the inital lash cold setting about .002" tighter than spec to get a accurate hot lash setting initially.
the engine expands and lash increases as the motor gets hotter.
you can vary the lash some to get more torque ( looser) or more top end power (tighter) A cam that calls for a tight leash setting ( "tight lash design" can go from about .012" to about .018" . A cam that calls for a .022 to .028" lash setting can be set to about .018 to about .030" varience.)
the tuning effect is mild but effective.
Tighter lash setting make the valvetrain a little quieter at idle than looser settings. If you go too loose on lash the lifter will be opening past the cams "clearance ramps"
the valve train will be very noisey at idle and cam life will be shortened. Don;t go more than .008" looser than spec.
When the valve train is lashed correctly it will have a mild "busy mechanical sound" at idle. Kind of cool sounding.
ya definatly know ya got someting going on under the hood. If the valve train is very noisy, ya did it wrong.
My present XE 284H hydraulic cam is more noisey @ idle than some mechanical cams I've run in the past.
A solid lifter cam can and is designed with a more agressive lobe and will rev higher and make some more power than a equal hyd design. (no lifter pump up.)
generally you want to select a solid cam with about 6 to 10deg more duration than you would a hyd because the little bit of lash in the valvetrain reduces actual running duration some.
A hyd cam is a bit of a compromized design favourting a quite valvetrain at idle. The tradoff is limited rpm and lobe lift intensity. If you rev beyond about 5500 5800 a solid cam will make more power and when poperly selected make more low- mid torque too.
Big block chevys really like a mechanical cam valvetrain cause the valves are so heavy. Big difference above 5200rpm.
if you want to go fast( er) and don;t mind the periodic lash adjustments (a few times a season) A solid cam is a good way to get some more performance. The sound is definatly cool. the motor will tend to be more responsive overall.
A 235 to 244 @.050 solid cam makes a good street performance/ drive it to the strip setup. will buzz well past 6000rpm without a sweat. Should have a 2800-3500stall and some gear. A 250-260 cam is a good radical street/ bracket grind. usually ground on 106-108 LSA wants open headers and 3500 stall, compression and gearing. ( the motor likes to rev.) easy 7200rpm A 262+duration cam is getting into a real race cam wanting a race intake, high compression big headers and lots of rpm.
7500+rpm dosen;t like the low end at all. beyond that your into a full race setup. need ing a max race valvetrain and 8000+rpm Cam life will be shortened cause of the spring pressure and rpm required.
Modern solid cams give near- sometimes more roller cam performance for a lot less $$$.
Modern solid cams are not hard to live with at all.
back in the day some of the old race setups were sort of unstable and put a lot of stress on the valvetrain.
Springs, rockers studs etc etc.
A motor that couldn;t keep a lash setting indicated a overstressed valvetrain. ( bad or mismatched design)this is where the bad reputation came from. If you follow the manufactures valvetrain recomendations for the cam you want you won;t have problems at all.
I like Isky cams when it comes to using a more radical solid cam. Isky Cams always seem to work very well.
Lunati and Crane make good stuff too. Don;t feell you are limited to what is in the catalog. A custom ground solid cam cost the same as a off the shelf grind. a Cam lobe design that really yanks the valves around needs a premium valvetrain. A street motor does not always need to have the most radical yank the valves open and close design that a max race design calls for. All the popular manufactures have good solid cams that will make more power than a hyd and will last a long life.
what is the actual stall speed you see on the tach when launching the car on slicks that your'e getting with the new 350 motor? Do you like a rough idle? are you willing to change to a larger dual valve spring or do you want to stick with the comp 981's? Do you run it "capped up" or open exhaust at the track?
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-03-2006 at 06:06 PM.
02-04-2006, 12:34 AM
#27
i would like to stick with the 981's.
i like a choppy idle, but it has to be daily driveable
exhuast is duals with mufflers and an h-pipe with dumps before the rear. this is like this all the time, street and strip
i'm limited to what i can get in jegs cause that's where i got my XE274H cam and they have agreed to put the money towards any cam they offer when i send them this one back.
can you explain the intake closing exhaust opening method to me a bit more? i'm not sure i totally follow you on that one...
i have not tried to bring the motor up against this converter yet...i need to readjust my back brakes and get to a sticky surface with my drag radials...i am going to say it will be in the 25-2600rpms, but right now it's around 23-2400rpms.
i like a choppy idle, but it has to be daily driveable
exhuast is duals with mufflers and an h-pipe with dumps before the rear. this is like this all the time, street and strip
i'm limited to what i can get in jegs cause that's where i got my XE274H cam and they have agreed to put the money towards any cam they offer when i send them this one back.
can you explain the intake closing exhaust opening method to me a bit more? i'm not sure i totally follow you on that one...
i have not tried to bring the motor up against this converter yet...i need to readjust my back brakes and get to a sticky surface with my drag radials...i am going to say it will be in the 25-2600rpms, but right now it's around 23-2400rpms.
02-04-2006, 12:46 AM
#28
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Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: th350
Something around a 230-240 duration cam should be what you are looking for. As for the opening and closing thing i think he means that it opens and closes alot faster but the valve stays open longer. Imagine a cam where the lifter follows something like the top of an egg, vs something like this /\. Which would you think would be for higher rpms.
02-04-2006, 12:50 AM
#29
he's talking about a method for setting valve lash, he just needs to explain a bit better...though i thank you for taking a stab at explaining it!
f-bird 88: this is the cam i'm looking at right now.
oh yeah, can't go over .500" lift i'd really prefere not to take the motor apart to modify the heads to accomodate more lift for now.
FAIR IDLE, MODERATE PERFORMANCE USAGE, GOOD MID-RANGE HP, BRACKET RACING, 3400-3800 CRUISE RPM, 10.0 TO 11.5 COMPRESSION RATIO ADVISED.
Grind Number: F-278-2 (replaces CC-278-2)
Operating Range: 3000-6500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 278° Intake / 288° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 238° Intake / 248° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .480'' Intake / .500'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 114°
Max Lift Angle: 109° ATDC Intake / 119° BTDC Exhaust
Open/Close @.050'' Cam Lift: Intake - 10° BTDC (opens) / 48° ABDC (closes)
Exhaust - 63° BBDC (opens) / 5° ATDC (closes)
f-bird 88: this is the cam i'm looking at right now.
oh yeah, can't go over .500" lift i'd really prefere not to take the motor apart to modify the heads to accomodate more lift for now.
FAIR IDLE, MODERATE PERFORMANCE USAGE, GOOD MID-RANGE HP, BRACKET RACING, 3400-3800 CRUISE RPM, 10.0 TO 11.5 COMPRESSION RATIO ADVISED.
Grind Number: F-278-2 (replaces CC-278-2)
Operating Range: 3000-6500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 278° Intake / 288° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 238° Intake / 248° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .480'' Intake / .500'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 114°
Max Lift Angle: 109° ATDC Intake / 119° BTDC Exhaust
Open/Close @.050'' Cam Lift: Intake - 10° BTDC (opens) / 48° ABDC (closes)
Exhaust - 63° BBDC (opens) / 5° ATDC (closes)
02-04-2006, 12:55 AM
#30
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Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: th350
O duh, i am an idiot. He means that you adjust all the valves then turn the motor over one full rotation and half off them will be lose because they were open when you first adjusted them and are now closed. That is how i did mine, worked fine.
I think that cam might be alittle big, Dont think you have enough stall for it.
I think that cam might be alittle big, Dont think you have enough stall for it.
02-04-2006, 01:09 AM
#31
this is the smallest mechanical cam i could find through jegs...
my converter is a 10" ATI built around my last motor, i can get it restalled for $150...and driving it around like this would be OK for a little while anyhow
and when the car launches, it flashes right to 4K....the 2300rpms is just when i stand on the brakes and hold the car still...
my converter is a 10" ATI built around my last motor, i can get it restalled for $150...and driving it around like this would be OK for a little while anyhow
and when the car launches, it flashes right to 4K....the 2300rpms is just when i stand on the brakes and hold the car still...
Last edited by mw66nova; 02-04-2006 at 01:15 AM.
02-04-2006, 02:16 AM
#32
this is the other cam i'm thinking of, and will probably go with, it's a hydraulic cam. one of cranes "Zcam" cams...
http://cranecams.com/index.php?show=...32&lvl=2&prt=5
http://cranecams.com/index.php?show=...32&lvl=2&prt=5
02-04-2006, 05:31 AM
#33
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Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
I run a solid lifter cam in my car and probably put 10k miles on it before adjusting them the first time 
Didn't get one polylock tight enough and ended up breaking the end off a pushrod at the track. Still ended up running a 12.40 something at 110 lol I go through it before every race now.
Didn't get one polylock tight enough and ended up breaking the end off a pushrod at the track. Still ended up running a 12.40 something at 110 lol I go through it before every race now.
02-04-2006, 09:57 PM
#34
Supreme Member
Reving the motor against the car's brakes till the rear tires start turning does not indicate the torque converter's "stall speed" it only indicates how well your back brakes work till they are over powered.
True in the car converter "stall speed" is the rpm that the tach reads as you just launch the car from a dead stock with full tire traction. So if its 4000rpm you have a "4000stall converter" , not 2400.
This is assuming the rear tires are not spinning during the initial launch.
if you have a 4000stall converter (creates a 4000rpm launch rpm with slicks) than you can use more than a 224@.050" cam. Should be able to go up to 255@.050" duration.
a solid in the 242 248 @.050" range is about right for your motor, converter and rear gear. (yet streetable)
The Crane F-278-2 should work well.
So would Lunati #40111 40113 and Crane #114681
and #110921 Same cam ground on 106 LSA (likes open headers and collector extensions)
Comps 294s magnum makes good power too.
#12-224-4
Any, and all these cams will run strong to at least 6500rpm using the comp 981 springs set at 1.70" installed height.
You won't need to rev higher than 6500rpm at the track to get max perf. probabily +/- 6000 shift points.
All these will work well on the street once the distributor is recurved.
All these are on the Jegs site.
True in the car converter "stall speed" is the rpm that the tach reads as you just launch the car from a dead stock with full tire traction. So if its 4000rpm you have a "4000stall converter" , not 2400.
This is assuming the rear tires are not spinning during the initial launch.
if you have a 4000stall converter (creates a 4000rpm launch rpm with slicks) than you can use more than a 224@.050" cam. Should be able to go up to 255@.050" duration.
a solid in the 242 248 @.050" range is about right for your motor, converter and rear gear. (yet streetable)
The Crane F-278-2 should work well.
So would Lunati #40111 40113 and Crane #114681
and #110921 Same cam ground on 106 LSA (likes open headers and collector extensions)
Comps 294s magnum makes good power too.
#12-224-4
Any, and all these cams will run strong to at least 6500rpm using the comp 981 springs set at 1.70" installed height.
You won't need to rev higher than 6500rpm at the track to get max perf. probabily +/- 6000 shift points.
All these will work well on the street once the distributor is recurved.
All these are on the Jegs site.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-04-2006 at 10:15 PM.
02-04-2006, 10:11 PM
#35
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Car: 87 Berlinetta,work in progress
Engine: 468 BB,still in the build process
Transmission: TH350,3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 9" Ford,learning how to live under
LOVE the Comp 294S,I've ran several in bigblocks,but I think it may be a bit more stick than he needs/wants.
I know Comp is making a line of solids in the XE series for bigblocks,may be making them for the mouse,too.
At any rate,I highly recommend that a solid be your next cam,you'll love it.They are a bit more maintenance,but well worth it if your the kind of guy who likes to linger under the hood anyways(which I get the impression you are).Also,don't be disappointed if your new solid is a bit smoother than a hydraulic,the idle is less noticable.But when you mash the happy pedal,you'll know the tradeoffs are well worth it!
I know Comp is making a line of solids in the XE series for bigblocks,may be making them for the mouse,too.
At any rate,I highly recommend that a solid be your next cam,you'll love it.They are a bit more maintenance,but well worth it if your the kind of guy who likes to linger under the hood anyways(which I get the impression you are).Also,don't be disappointed if your new solid is a bit smoother than a hydraulic,the idle is less noticable.But when you mash the happy pedal,you'll know the tradeoffs are well worth it!
02-04-2006, 10:29 PM
#36
Supreme Member
The intake closes, exhaust opens method of setting valve lash refers to bumping the motor over with the starter while watching the valves of a particular cylinder.
To set the exhaust valve lash of that cylinder:
Bump the starter over a bit at a time till the intake valve opens and then JUST closes ( on seat) . Set the exhaust valve lash on that cylinder to spec.
now bump the starter over a bit at a time till the exhaust valve just starts to open (first motion) now set the intake valve lash to spec.
repeat for the rest of the cylinders.
Intake closes, set the exhaust exhaust opens, set the intake
What could be easier.
I usually do one cylinder bank at a time. rewarming up the motor to operating temp each time.
To set the exhaust valve lash of that cylinder:
Bump the starter over a bit at a time till the intake valve opens and then JUST closes ( on seat) . Set the exhaust valve lash on that cylinder to spec.
now bump the starter over a bit at a time till the exhaust valve just starts to open (first motion) now set the intake valve lash to spec.
repeat for the rest of the cylinders.
Intake closes, set the exhaust exhaust opens, set the intake
What could be easier.
I usually do one cylinder bank at a time. rewarming up the motor to operating temp each time.
02-07-2006, 03:38 PM
#37
I would also recommend switching over to a mechanical cam, I just made the switch myself and was very impressed with the results. I went from a 242/248@.05 .560lift hyd/roller to a 252/260@.05 .622/.627 lift solid roller. I also went from 10.2:1 compression to 11.2:1, had the heads fully race ported, and installed some yella terra shaft mounted rockers. Normally I associate going faster with sacraficing drivabilty or reliability but not in this case. I was very surprised at how easy the car drives and how much more high rpm power it makes. With the changes made the car still runs on pump gas, idles better(smoother), revs quicker&higher. The only real drawback is having to adjust the valves once in awhile. Since I only drive my car a few thousand miles a year its no big deal. I won't have any track times until spring but I could definately tell a big difference during my first test run after getting it together. I'm hoping for some high 10 sec 1/4 mile times n/a this year.
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