NL400sbc

I have a .510 lift blue racer in my car and was wondering if anyone might have the specs for it. Crane doesn't have any since it's outdated. I called about it. Only thing I know it's around .510 lift.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

probably around 220ish duration

the LSA could be anything though.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Probably the same as this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=SUM%2D1107 or this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=EDL%2D7102 or any of dozens of other suppliers of those copycat ancient generic grinds. Crane now owns the Blue Racer trade name, whether they still supply that old cam I don't know; but that's almost certainly what you have.

A terrible cam for just about any purpose. Almost any cam of similar "specs" designed in the last 30 or 40 years will outrun it, get better gas mileage, have better street manners, etc. It's thoroughly outdated.

F-BIRD'88

If the lift is .510" on both intake and exhaust it is likely this cam.

Wolverine Blue racer # WG-1092
.510-.510" lift
244-244 @.050"
108 LSA

310 Adv dur.
Use Crane 99846 or Lunati 73943 stock diameter springs
or Comp 987 1.43" springs.

Needs a high compression ratio 10:1 mininum 12:1+ better
Vic Jr single plane type intake, fully ported or aftermarket large valve heads 750cfm carb open long tube headers 4.10:1 or higher gears ++ 3500stall converter mininum.
Needs a modified ignition advance curve use as much initial timing as the starter motor will tolerate 18-30 deg BTC
with a short advance curve to 32-36deg @3000rpm.
Or- lockout the mechanical advance 32-36 BTC full time.
use vacuum advance.
The power band is 3500-6500+
may benefit from installing it 6 deg further advanced on 102 intake C/L to maximize overall torque.
The over all seat of the pants performance gain is well worth the effort to pull the timing cover and adjust the cam installed C/L.
(especially if your compression ratio is less than 12:1)

It is simular to Comp cams 292H-10 Magnum.

Not a good cam for a near stock motor. but works well with the above parts.

F-BIRD'88

Two other possibilities are

Wolverine Blue racer # WG-1051
.510" .533"
244 254 @.050"
112LSA 107-117
310-320 Adv dur

or Wolverine Blue racer # WG-1064
.488-.510"
234-244 @.050"
300-310 adv dur
112LSA

Both cams like simular parts combos and rpm range as above. Again if your cr is low, advance the cam in the motor to maximize cylinder pressure.

Crane has revised the cam card specs a little but these are the origional Blue Racer specs.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Note that all of those have the same 244 degree / .510" lobe in various places. That lobe was widely used on both "symmetrical" cams, same lobe on both intake and exhaust; and more commonly on "asymmetrical" ones, like the vendors I posted, with a smaller intake and larger exhaust lobe. The asymmetrical versions usually work better with stock heads, due to the more limited exhaust flow in the port.

In other words, they're the same cam, or at least the same "series" of cam. Just like the ones I posted which are 2 more copies of the same copy of the same old copy, that you can still buy.

It's a REALLY REALLY old lobe design; from back in the days when there were no aftermarket heads at all for the street, and very very few valve springs in between stock replacement and all-out racing (like solid rollers with 200 psi on the seat). As a result, think of them, as being all the cam you can possibly jam under very-carefully-set-up stock springs, and have it go down the track a few times without breaking one.

Of course, put some modern valve springs (anything introduced in the last 30 years or so .... such as the Comp 987) on it, and the reliability problems magically disappear.

But at the same time, if you also put a modern cam in the motor, the guy with that cam in his, will magically diappear in your rear view mirror.

Summit, Edelbrock, Melling, AMotion, Crane / Blue Racer, etc. etc. etc. all still "sell" those old grinds. They were very popular back in the early 70s, and for good reason. Some of them (the 204/214 one, and the 214/224 one) are still good cams for certain uses; notably, just sticking them into an otherwise totally unprepped stock motor, when racing (comparing results achieved to someone else's combo) isn't an issue. While they work fine on their own, in a vacuum of competition so to speak, NONE of them are competitive with cams that take advantage of modern design techniques and supporting parts.

I would STRONGLY suggest getting rid of it, and putting something modern in it; for as cheap as cams are, and as big of a difference as they make in how a motor runs, it's not a great place to shave the last possible penny.

NL400sbc

guys thanks for all the info, I think i should get rid of the cam like you said.

However a question arises, I have the springs to match the cam, so should i get rid all of it and get a cam kit with springs included?

I think i would like to get my hands on a nice choppy cam.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Depends on what springs they actually are....

Although, generally that cam is a "budget" type of thing (except of course when it comes in an Edlebrock box ); so generally speaking, you'd expect any springs that somebody put into a "kit" with it, to be about the bare minimum.

Get their part #, and decide what cam you want instead, and it shouldn't be too hard to figure out if they'll work or if they'll need to be replaced.

I'd advise strongly against picking a cam based on how "choppy" it is. That usually leads to getting too much cam for however much motor you've got, which in turn produces a motor with no guts even if it runs good above 5000 RPM (if it even can...). Pick one whose design is consistent with the rest of the motor, and the car as a whole, and its intended use.