Lo-tec

out of this list of parts, only $79.95 was spent on a cam that will go in the 305. ALL of the rest of the parts on his list will work great on a 350. BTW, I missed the intake manifold. If you have a stock one, at least get a decent used dual plane and swap it in when you do the cam. That will help make more power with all of your other mods.

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iTrader: (17)

I have a dual plane Edelbrock performer intake manifold.

And as for buy a 350 now sorta thing, well I already have a goal that I am sticking to. This 305 is just a play thing until I make what I want. my goal is a 383, and I want to do it right..
and that would mean that i need to get a better tranny as well.

As for the extra $2k that was spent wisely on paying off all my credit card debt. Cars are my obession but every now and then I have to use my brain.

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iTrader: (17)

I am not sure what I am going to do with the Donor cars rear end, It has disc brakes but since its an 83 the fittings will not be the same. I guess I am better off leaving the brakes on... I can just take the brakes off because then the car wont move right?

flyitlikustolit

if both rears are 10-bolts, then you can swap the brakes extremely easily. the fittings are the same from 82-98. the only thing you'd need to change is the e-brake cables. otherwise, swap em over and better your stopping.

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iTrader: (17)

85 and below have sae fittings and i believe 86 and up have metric, so it wouldnt be a direct swap.

Apeiron

82-82 use SAE, 84+ are metric.

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iTrader: (17)

so basically should ditch the rear disc idea, since i would have to take the rear end off? or can i still use them? If so can I take them off and still have a junk yard pick up my donor? I need it to roll out

flyitlikustolit

even if you took them off, the JY could still pick it up if you put the wheels back on.... they just wouldn't be able to stop. I don't see how the 85 and up fitings are all standard.... i put a fourth gen rear in my car and i didn't change any fittings. it all went together no problem, and i don't have any leaks in the system. I say keep the discs just in case. wouldn't hurt. although, the Moraine iron calipers are about as useful for stopping as your foot would be.

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iTrader: (17)

So you could mount the rear wheels on with the rear calipers gone? Looks like the wheel studs are apart of the brake assembly. I never seen that before. If so I will take them and rebuild them

flyitlikustolit

nope. not on the rear. the studs go through the axle flanges into the rotor and the wheel. the rotor just slips on the flange. the calipers bolts to the housing flange behind the rotor.

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iTrader: (17)

in other words i can not canabalize the rear rotors unless I put my drums on it to replace it. But what if i do, how do i get the rear brakes to work with the SAE fittings against the 88's metric?

flyitlikustolit

you can, but you won't be able to stop the junker.

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iTrader: (17)

if i could connect them they should work

Electron_Blue

just take the rear discs off the junker...you will be left with the end of the axle and 5 studs that the wheel will bolt to. put wheels on and the junker is set....you may need to adapt a few lines for the install on the other car though

stealthhit

Any part store sells adapters and adapter lines that go from SAE to Meteric so swapping to the disk isn't going to be an issue. I have done it on a couple cars. Annoying Yes Doable of course it's just going to take some time. but in the end Braking power is going to be important I agree with the rest put the rear disk on it's only in your favor.

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iTrader: (17)

Okay, Let me give you a recap on how things are shaking with my swap ATM. I put the engine on an engine stand, took the heads off, oil pan etc. Well noticed the cylinder walls were NOT scorned, really not a whole lot of carbon deposits. So I flipped it upside down and checked out the main bearings. small bit of wear but again no scratches. So, I degreased the ever living crap outta the engine, Now Im putting the new cam in, old one didnt look bad but when i compared the two it was obvious that the one i am putting in is way more aggressive.
The engine is going to be painted red, my chrome oil pan will be painted red too (Chrome is Tacky)
Everything is turning out well, but as you go long you find bad things and you find your wallet getting lighter.
Oh BTW I swapped the rear end already. I took the 83' t/as rear end and swapped it with my 88's none which has posi...
I swapped it only because of the rear disc brakes which was shocking because i didnt realize until i was putting the rear brakes back on that one caliper is in the front and one is in the back... what the hell??? Anyone have insight on this?

eric17422001

I have scorned many a cylinder wall........."Hell hath no fury like a cylinder wall scorned"

Just havin' fun with your Typo

Chrome is tacky....I like this guy already.

Great progress! Keep us posted, and when you get it running PM me and we'll meet up somewhere in town.

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iTrader: (17)

I am still trying to get some insight on why my right rear caliper is in the front and my left rear caliper is in the back. kinda looks jacked up. Anyone know about this?

Apeiron

GM designed it that way so that the calipers are interchangeable.

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iTrader: (17)

Yeah because they are too cheap. But since they are "interchangeable" does that mean I can fab a bracket to move the caliper to the rear? I dont think it would take much to modify the mounting bracket to turn it 180* just that and some new brake lines.
Would this be acceptable?
I mean its looks really cheese ball.

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iTrader: (17)

Okay, I want to makesure I did not screw something up when i reinstalled the rocker arms.
the manual did not specify TDC and all of that.
TDC should be when the cam gear is at the 12 o'clock position right?
and 6 TDC is when the crank gear is at the 6 o'clock position?

Apeiron

If you do that you won't be able to bleed it.

Apeiron

Both #1 and #6 are at TDC when the dot on the crank gear is in the 12:00 position. When the dot on the cam gear is at the 12:00 position, #1 is at TDC firing. When the dot on the cam gear is at the 6:00 position, #6 is at TDC firing.

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iTrader: (17)

Okay I got a second job at autozone, and well it got me think about this nice 20% off i get. I get it off of everything including engines and whatnot.
I need to buy some new valve covers (my friend punches a hole in one "retard strength") and well chrome is the cheapest..
Has anyone had problems with the way the chrome ones seal? Ive heard stories but anyone have insight?

eric17422001

If these are the perimeter bolt on valve covers try using the long spreaders under the bolts. I'm not crazy about chrome myself, doesn't add any performance and the inexpensive stuff usually rusts in about six months in this humid salty Savannah atmosphere.

Which Autozone are you at? Victory drive, Derrene Ave. or Garden City?

It seems like every time I go in I spend just under $20 and don't get another stamp on my AZ rewards card!

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iTrader: (17)

Victory, Im working tonight 5-10

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iTrader: (17)

I am not sure actually what to do next.
I have spent entirely too much money on this car.
After buying
a 305
a t-5
a rear end with disc
hooker headers and y pipe
cam and lifters
this and that
Ive spent way too much!!
Im considering selling it!! I am not sure on what to do
I still dont have the money to finish it.
I still need
1. a clutch
2. altenator
3. water pump
4. lh brake line
even if i sell it I cant return anything... i cut the AIR tubes off the headers and re welded and grinded them. The ignition system is installed and the cam and lifters and all the other small parts. all I have left in the package is my edelbrock exhaust system and a silly tranny mount. so many new parts and so much time spent I dont know what to really do because I havent put the engine in yet because I want to shoe horn the engine in with a tranny and I need a clutch.

If anyone is interested or wants to help me consider what to do here is what is new on the car.
(2) motor mounts
(2) rear lakewood drag shocks
(2) sway bar links
Valve covers
Cam
Lifters
Timing chain and both gears
all hardware
hooker 2055's and Ypipe
moroso super ignition system
oil pan
all gaskets
pushrods
aluminum dual intake manifold
tons of small things
as you can see I havent really planned this out very well and I concentrated on the biggest and best things rather than the more practical things (more specifically the whole exhaust system)
What would you do in my position?
Keep it and finish what you were working on
or trade it for a beater that runs
or sale it
I have a dodge ram and gas is killing me. Im almost thinking about trading it in for a cheapo bike or geo metro

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Sell the Ram and finish the 'Bird.

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iTrader: (17)

The problem is that I am upside down on it.
Anyone want a 2001 dodge ram 5.9L well equipped quad cab truck? 15K and its yours!!!