five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I've already linked this thread in the existing BBC swap sticky.

booboosean

Massage-----I like that. Yes that's all I had to do. I didn't want to go nuts with the hammer, so I put the motor and trans in a few times for fit-ups. The driver's side is the one that really surprised me. There are so many things on that side to clear and it turned out that a motor mount of all things interfered. I'm taking the motor and trans out one last time to send the car to the body shop and I'll probably "massage" the floor/firewall a little more just to make sure of enough clearance.

I'm not saying this is the "best" way to go, but it will give people one more option. The only advice I have to add is to get the headers with the coating already on them.

If the stock rubber mounts are used, it wouldn't require the amount of "massaging" I had to do.

booboosean

Sorry I left this out. You can get these headers from just about anywhere. I ordered mine from Jeg's, but Summit also carries them. Just about anyone who carries Pertronix products can get them. (Pertronix is the parent company)

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

hey i noticed they also carry 1 7/8'' priamry tube headers , in the same deisgn you got. think there would be much differnce beside grindin a bit more away on the motor mount to make these work? becuz since its only 1/8'' bigger shouldnt make the world of differnce.

just found on summits site. $341.95 for coated 1 7/8'' primary headers as the same ones in this post. $308 for the 1 3/4'' primary headers coated. the 1 7/8'' have a 3 1/2'' collector but they also come with reducers.

i think ill be orering a set of those when i get the extra cash.

Daz

iTrader: (1)

Thats great!!..

The main problem Im having with the Hooker headers is the where the collectors/flanges sit. They go too far away where the stock piping was .

FaSStcars

Do you think there is room for the AC box with the headers? Just eyeing it up.

Daz

iTrader: (1)

I dunno about those patriots bu I have the hooker swap headers and it fits

zrotten

Heres a trail fit of the LEMONS HEADERS 2.250. Before painting engine bay again & again..lol
Rotten

Pic dint upload?

FaSStcars

Rotton those Lemons headers are big bucks. They look good though.

zrotten

Check out the collecters, you can see the first coat of metalic spray before the red went on.

Rotten

PS puts those "hookers" back in the gutter.......lol

zrotten

These back two tubes run through the fender well

zrotten

Just a quik look from under the car

Daz

iTrader: (1)

lol no way with the $$ I paid

How about pics of the whole exhaust

zrotten

I have all the pipes laid out. Im in the middle of installing a k-member-arms and rack. Each pipe is seperate then they go in one at a time while theBBC is in the car.
The headers all run down the trans tunnel, unlike the Hookers with that restrictive 3" u-bend. I also have my frame tied in there and the hookers just made it hell to go to 4" I'll show you a test fit to give you an idea of the two fenderwell pipes.
Rotten

zrotten

Here is a fender well shot PS , DS only one pipe runs around.
Rotten

zrotten

Pic of collectors. If you look the left collector I sent back free of charge to get the angle tilted up toward the floor more, it was aiming down like those mopars....SPIT, also I asked them to change the bolt flange on the one collector to make it easier to get out of the way shift linkage.
Rotten

onefast85

here's mine.

onefast85

middle 2 tubes on both sides go through the towers and all tubes meet in the same place as the hooker collectors used to be.mine were built by a local chassis shop.2 1/4primaries and 4 inch collectors,4inch exhaust to race magnum 4 inch mufflers turned downed tight in front of the rearend.

the reason mine are built like this is ground clearence.for me its too tight there to run the 4 inch between the trans and frame rails and then the trans crossmember is all in the way.mine never rubs the ground it is tucked way up in the car as high as i could get it.

onefast85

exhaust

booboosean

Hey onefast85, is that a SSM Lift Bar setup under your car?

onefast85

yep,it is the southside kit.

booboosean

I thought so. I bought that kit and have installed the SFCs but haven't yet installed the lift bars and crossmember. I've read good things about the kit. It's supposed to make these cars good for up to 1000 HP. Did you set your pinion angle with the torque arm installed in the stock location then remove it? Just curious. The directions give a lot of details on what the pinion angle should be, but don't ever mention "how" to achieve it.

Boo.

onefast85

i set mine with a magnetic angle finder stuck on the yoke of the rearend.when i did the install i had already had control arms from morrison that done away with the torque arm.i run a glide also to ease the shock load on the suspension when the nitrous comes on.

with a 540 it went 1.37 60ft,8.95 at 154.at 3450lbs thats 1100hp at the flywheel.i have a 598 now and hope it will run 8.60's at 160.

booboosean

Those are outstanding times (especially for the weight of the car). No offense, but that's pretty heavy heavy. Mine will probably turn out about the same weight. It seems like every time I lose a little weight somewhere, I pick it back up with a roll bar or chassis mod. What gear and tire combo are you using? How bad do the cops mess with you?

Daz

iTrader: (1)

good stuff...Do you mid posting more pics ..On the side and passenger side?.. My driver side pipes coming out off the Hooker collectors goes across under the tranny crosssmember and goes into the single 3" cat back..The passenger is a little different though

jrg77

So to do this swap you may have to cut the fenderwells to get the headers on. What are you using to cut them?

Is it running yet?

To the one gut who was planning to use a T-56...
Have you done it yet, and what did you have to do to mke it work?

Jason

zrotten

I wish I had a plasma cutter,BUT.......
I used a set of torches for the rough cut, cutting wheel, grinder, round file.
Its really not that bad, Lemons gives you the template and measurements. Test fit the pipes, then off to Jet-Hot!
Rotten

vladicore

boy i wish this thread had been around 3 yrs ago when i did my bbc 454 swap. i think this woud have saved me at least 10 motor pulls and about 20 hrs of customizing headers

runnriottt

after reading this whole thread, i wish i would have gone this route also.. i went and spent a pretty large amount for the headers i have , and there uncoated. i will use this idea for the big block swap in my buds z28, i have started a trend here in my home town, big block third gens. Big blocks rule man...

stroked1990RS

yes thay do!^^^^^

Motor City Mike

Just found this thread. I had custom stainless steel headers made for my blown 509" combo. They're step headers with primaries that start out at 2 1/8" and are 2 1/4" at the collector. Collector size is 4". All tubes are removeable, which makes installation/removal easy with the engine bolted in the car. All the tubes fit within the "frame" rails, but they are unequal in length due to the lack of space underneath for tubes and collectors of this size (not really important with a supercharged engine anyway). If/when I get a tubular crossmember, I'll make a nicer set with equal length primary pipes (much more room to work with). When I originally fit the engine in the chassis, I lowered and moved it back, which gained much needed space around the steering shaft for the header pipes coming out of the left cyl. head (they go underneath the shaft). Moving the engine down and rearward also gives a more favorable weight distribution (F to R) and gains much needed hood clearance.

runnriottt

who did you go through for your headers and are you running duals, or just open header? i would love to see pics of those 4" beasts under your hood.

Motor City Mike

A local guy named Gary Cook. The car has a 4" exhaust system with 2 Flowmaster 3 chamber mufflers. The underside and floor behind the front seats has been extensively modified to accomodate the exhaust system (back seats have been eliminated). The front frame rails have been cut off/removed where they taper inwards (near the transmission) and a straight rectangular 2x3" tube subframe was welded in place. A new trans crossmember was also fabricated from scratch. Not only does this strengthen the chassis, it allows you to position the big collectors and exhaust away from the tranny, and also allows you to have better ground clearance.




Unfortunately, at this time I don't have any pics of the underneath with the exhaust installed.

ckeene502

anyupdates?

booboosean

ckeene502, I guess I'll respond since I started this thread. Good to see you're still out there.
After I solved my Header situation, I moved to the rearend and installed the SSM liftbar kit (looks really good) along with a Moser 9-inch with 4.56 gears. I finished the roll bar last weekend (that was difficult but it is complete minus paint) It's the Comp Engineering 8 point kit. This thread has yielded some good things----I like to see what other people are doing with their cars too. When it looks like the thread is going to die, someone does a search and keeps it alive (kinda cool).

boo

ckeene502

i know what you mean about reviving threads. i do not like to good ones like this go away. i am still working on my bb install. just do not really have the money(have a girl in the oven right now). one day i would like to see your car in person(little motovation to work on mine)i just a few miles away over in elkmont. i am stilllll trying to get some good information about putting am manual behind my bb i would liike a g-force t-5 or t-10. just can not seem to get the part numbers for what i need. i want to stick a hyd. clutch. well, glad to see you are still working on car...any idea when you are going to get it to the track???

keene

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I put a link to it in the BBC Swap sticky, so it's always easy to find, even if you don't see the thread itself.

booboosean

ckeene502, you said it right when you talked about how much money a person can put into one of these things. I've got a family too and know how it is. Like any other hobby, it can get expensive. It'll probably be another year before mine makes it to the track.
The man. transmission sounds like a challenge. Hyd clutch is the way to go. It would seem that everything behind a bb would be the same as a sb as far as transmissions, linkages, crossmembers, etc.
When you up the power on these cars, there is so much that has to be done to make the car where it can handle it. You're welcome to see my car anytime, I'd like to see what you've done to yours too. Thanks to tgo, I know ther are tons of other people out there that have the same interests. I'll be posting some "engine swap" topics in the near future when I start bolting accessories to the front of my bb----should be interesting.

boo

ckeene502

trying to kepp the thread going good....
yea i am going with a stick shift and i do not need a crazy set up because it mostly going to be for fun, maybe go to the track to kinda tune it in. the tires i am going with are to be some bfg street tires nothing fancy(dot slicks). other paople on here with BB chime in with your ideas and experience.

keene

zrotten

Piece of advice, go with an older Muncie m22 or 21
or a brand new Richmond or http://www.texracing.com/ (if you got the cash).
BBC and a hydraulic slave cylinder are going to be grenades!!!!
If you have a stock 502 Marine engine, it will work .....for awhile BUT if you have HP = parts will scatter. Just like those silly 7.5 inch ring &pinions?????
I played around with the stick its fun but its not for my setup.
I have gone back to 350 turbos. I like the 3 speed auto with a transbrake. The 400 turbo sucks up 40 HP.

Later
Rotten

booboosean

Help me understand something here...how is a hyd. slave cylinder going to be a grenade? Isn't it just a method of pushing a throwout bearing against a pressure plate? Seems like the clutch/pressure plate combo would be in question. If I'm not mistaken, the new 500HP Z06 'vette and the Viper use a hydraulic clutch.

ckeene502

i was wondering the same thing. i hate to play like a moron but can anyone give out some part numbers for stuff like flywheels/clutch or any other stuff. stock gm parts would even work for me. for some reason i get "confused" since i have not messed with swaping things around like that

keene

zrotten

"Help me understand something here...how is a hyd. slave cylinder going to be a grenade? Isn't it just a method of pushing a throwout bearing against a pressure plate? Seems like the clutch/pressure plate combo would be in question. If I'm not mistaken, the new 500HP Z06 'vette and the Viper use a hydraulic clutch."

Those parts are made to factory specs for those specific applications. Hence the comment, if its a stock marine engine.
The torque from some real HP and slamim gears will make a mess.
your car was not made for that added front weight of the BBC, chassis has to be modified, just those aspects will lead to permature "GERNADE".
Didnt mean to imply it wont work , hell we put a 350 SBC in a Fiero with the stock tranny, we could only use 1 and 2 gear or it would blow the trans in peices.
Then I put a 323 cubic inch destroked SBC(out of a B-Econorail dragster) in so the motor would go to 12,000 Rpm and we didnt need 3 and 4....(SCCA). but it also took its tool on the slave cylinder because of the torque, engine, chassis....
Later
Rotten
PS Solid linkage is just what it inpliesSOLID,it will wear but it will last longer

SSC

Makes me sad to read this again. I had to sell my BB due to a slow month at work. I guess a roof over my head is better then a monster under my hood.

SScott

Hello all! Glad to see ckeene502 and booboosean are fellow Alabamians.

booboosean, have you done anything else to your car? How bout you ckeene502?

Any more pics or progress reports would be fantastic!

Thanks for the great post!

Scott

ckeene502

my project is sitting dead in the water...no money
all i am doing now is mostley interior work and wiring.


badride5.. you have any good info about your ride.

keene

SScott

I know that feeling all too well.

My car is in the earlyist stage. It still has a knocking 2.8 and 700 that I can't use. (Free to good home by the way)

My motor is on the stand but does not need much to be ready.

I am trying to get up some cash to get a 700r4 and other odd things.

I am going to document the build as I go and make a website. There just isnt enuf nfo out there for putting big blocks in 3rd gens.

Good luck on your project and hang in there. Please post any progress you make. I would love to see some pics. I have saved every one I find here.

Scott

booboosean

Hey, thanks for asking. I'll throw in some pics in the next few days. Lately been getting the body ready for paint. With the engine swap, I need a taller hood---as soon as I get that, it's going to get sprayed. This thing has turned into a huge hole that I dump money into........aint it great!!?? Every man needs an expensive hobby! (gave up golf and don't miss it)

Boo.

booboosean

five7kid, bear with me. I know a few of these pics don't apply to "engine swap" forum, but they are a result of my engine swap.

Boo.

Spohn Crossmember:

booboosean

Roll bar: