Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

Big Block

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Old 09-26-2004 | 08:42 AM
  #51  
SOLID LIFTER's Avatar
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From: HAUNTING THE CHAPEL
Car: '87 Mustang LX
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
Where are the pics?
Old 09-26-2004 | 08:50 AM
  #52  
SOLID LIFTER's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: HAUNTING THE CHAPEL
Car: '87 Mustang LX
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T-5
opps.
Old 09-26-2004 | 05:49 PM
  #53  
THEGENERAL's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
okay this is compliments of www.9bolt.com i copied it to here for you incase you are really serious about putting a bigblock into your car......here goes
Transplanting a Big-Block Chevy into your 3rd Gen F-Body

------------------------------------------------------------------------

This article is taken from HOT ROD magazine. May 1988 issue:

This article is taken from Stephen Cranford http://cranford.home.texas.net 6/99

Dropping a big-block Chevy V8 into a late-model GM F-Body can be a

rewarding but frustrating experience. There's no question that big-block

power breathes new life into any swap, but F-Body transplants present a

variety of problems that can be difficult to overcome. Technically

speaking, it is an easy swap, since factory frame mounts and engine

brackets can be used and all the accessory hardware is readily available

through local GM dealers and specialty equipment manufacturers. Most swaps

are mechanically easy to complete, but almost all of them suffer from

overheating and fuel delivery problems. These cars are essentially bottom

breathers with little or no front grille to admit cooling air. The engine

fits rather snugly and even the heavy-duty factory radiator is hard-pressed

to keep its cool under normal driving conditions. Increased cooling

capacity via the use of special aftermarket radiators (available from

Modine or custom built by local sources) is essential not only to maintain

proper engine operating temperatures, but also to help prevent high

underhood temperatures that cause fuel percolation, vapor lock, and rapid

deterioration of underhood components such as belts and hoses.

As shown in the accompying charts, the engine is a bolt-in using stock

brackets and frame mounts. A low profile intake manifold and air cleaner

are neccessary to maintain adequate hood clearance. Spark plug access and

steering gear clearance is tight, and the distributer requires a slight

clearance dimple on the firewall to facilitate easy installation and

removal. Late-model HEI distributors won't fit without making significant

alterations to the firewall. The stock throttle cable is long enough, but

you may need longer radiator hoses depending on your selection of

radiators. A factory 5-quart Chevelle oil pan (PN 14091488) clears the

crossmember nicely, and Hooker Industries makes the appropriate chrome

header set. If you plan on keeping the air conditioning intact, the late

model shorty compressor will require mount alterations to keep it properly

positioned, and you'll need either a two-groove or three-groove big-block

pulley to drive the accessories. The serpentine belt system on very

late-model F-Bodies won't fit in this application.

Automatic transmission make the easiest swaps, but you can still use a

manual trans if you wish. The stock bellhousing isn't compatible with large

diameter flywheels so you'll need to use a scattershield from McLeod or

Lakewood. They now have mounting provisions for the late-model hydraulic

clutch slaves that will ease the pain of fabricating clutch linkage. We

can't imagine running a T-5 transmission behind a big-block, but Super

T-10's and Doug Nash 5-speeds offer plenty of strength. Manual

transmissions will require an '82-'84 Z/28 4-speed rear crossmember and

mount with the appropriate torque arm mount for the transmission you are

using, but automatics can utilize rear crossmember kits from B&M. Serious

big-block power could also wreak havoc with the rearend. An automatic will

cushion the rearend somewhat, but you may have to consider installing a

Dana 44 or a 12-bolt with an aftermarket mount kit such as those available

from Summers Brothers. The added weight of a big-block is just about

perfect for lowering the front of your F-Body, but you should have the

front end re-aligned once the swap is completed. Hooker makes headers for

the swap, but the rest of the exhaust system will have to be fabricated.

The swap is essentially a bolt-in, but you'll need to address the cooling

and fuel delivery problems to derive maximum enjoyment from it. A larger

capacity radiator, accessory electric fans, and some means of evacuating

hot underhood air are all critical elements. Ram air cooling ducts directed

into the engine compartment may be of some help in keeping temperatures

under control, and if you're into hoodscoops or ducts, you can use them to

bring in more cool air. The stock fuel system will probably work well if

you keep the lines insulated and prevent localized hot spots in the engine

compartment, but a powerful engine running at high speed will require more

fuel capacity. An auxillary rear-mounted electric booster pump near the

fuel tank will help, but some applications might also requires an increase

in fuel line size.

As with any engine swap, there are plenty of details that require special

attention, but the smooth torque of the big-block really makes the effort

worthwhile. Big-block Camaros forever, right?

BIG-BLOCK F-BODY PARTS LIST

PART

PN SOURCE

Mount, frame, two required

14039437 Bracket, engine mount, left hand GM

334970 Bracket, engine mount, right hand GM

14039436 Spacer Plate, left hand (to raise engine for GM

14089455 clearance) GM

14089456 Spacer Plate, right hand (to raise engine for GM

14023147 clearance) GM

14023148 Two-groove big-block front pulley GM

3985999 Three-groove big-block front pulley GM

3930827 Big-block Chevelle oil pan GM

2226 Turbo 400 front-drive yoke Hooker Industries

20295 Chrome header set B&M

30299 TH200/TH700 to TH400 changeover kit B&M

20296 TH200/TH700 to TH350 changeover kit* B&M

20297 Special HD Driveshaft for TH400 kit B&M

----- TH400 kickdown switch Banks

TH350 F-Body torque arm mounting bracket kit

*TH200 uses a stock driveshaft, TH700 uses a stock '82 TH200 driveshaft

------------------------------------------------------------------------

F-BODY BIG-BLOCK FLYWHEEL/STARTER COMPATIBILITY

396/427 Engine

FLYWHEEL STARTER

Stock HD Stock HD

Manual Trans.---366860 14085720 1109534 1108789

Auto. Trans.----471591 361950 1109534 1108400

454 ENGINE

FLYWHEEL STARTER

Stock HD Stock HD

Manual Trans.---NA 3963537** 1109534 1108789

Auto. Trans.----NA 336717 NA 1108400

*also compatible with stock starter 1109534
Old 04-06-2016 | 09:53 PM
  #54  
1982BR's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Car: 1982 Berlinetta
Engine: 7.4 liter 454
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt chevy 4.10 gears
Re: Big Block

I have already done the big block swap but I'm looking to change my setup a bit. I want to switch from carb to throttle body. I have a donor truck with the wiring harness and ect. Any thread or links that will help me out? Thread searching not helping me much... Im also looking to put a hydraulic 4 speed manual in it, 6 speed isn't what I want behind my BBC but not sure exactly what transmission would be a good candidate for my 82 camaro... I'm on a budget so not looking to buy new parts. I
Old 04-07-2016 | 08:59 AM
  #55  
cosmick's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 1
From: North Salt Lake
Car: '86 Camaro, '94 Camaro, 3 others
Engine: LG4 ->L29, L32->LR4, L36, LG4, L31
Transmission: 700R-4, T5WC, 4L80E, SM465, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.23, WTB/WTT 2.93
Re: Big Block

Super T-10, preferably with the 2.43:1 first, because Pontiac used them behind the SD455 as well as many other 400-powered 'birds through '79, with the Super T-10, the numerically less the first gear ratio, the greater the torque capacity. The '82 Z28 came from GM with a Super T-10, but it had the weak 3.42:1 first gear. Anyway, everything you need already exists, you just gotta find it. You can switch it to hydraulic clutch release fairly easily, either internal or external slave cylinder, depending on what bellhousing you get.
If you're wanting more strength, but more challenge, then the NP 833. Mopar used them in Hemi 'Cudas, GM used them in C-10 pickups. The Mopar version is far stronger than the old Muncie M22s. The GM version has very little of what you'd need, but you can investigate if you like.
Old 04-07-2016 | 11:31 AM
  #56  
stephenscamaro's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Hermiston, Oregon
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 2.8 to 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Big Block

How did he get a "banned" status? That's a new one-
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