Big Block
#53
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,067
Likes: 0
From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
okay this is compliments of www.9bolt.com i copied it to here for you incase you are really serious about putting a bigblock into your car......here goes
Transplanting a Big-Block Chevy into your 3rd Gen F-Body
------------------------------------------------------------------------
This article is taken from HOT ROD magazine. May 1988 issue:
This article is taken from Stephen Cranford http://cranford.home.texas.net 6/99
Dropping a big-block Chevy V8 into a late-model GM F-Body can be a
rewarding but frustrating experience. There's no question that big-block
power breathes new life into any swap, but F-Body transplants present a
variety of problems that can be difficult to overcome. Technically
speaking, it is an easy swap, since factory frame mounts and engine
brackets can be used and all the accessory hardware is readily available
through local GM dealers and specialty equipment manufacturers. Most swaps
are mechanically easy to complete, but almost all of them suffer from
overheating and fuel delivery problems. These cars are essentially bottom
breathers with little or no front grille to admit cooling air. The engine
fits rather snugly and even the heavy-duty factory radiator is hard-pressed
to keep its cool under normal driving conditions. Increased cooling
capacity via the use of special aftermarket radiators (available from
Modine or custom built by local sources) is essential not only to maintain
proper engine operating temperatures, but also to help prevent high
underhood temperatures that cause fuel percolation, vapor lock, and rapid
deterioration of underhood components such as belts and hoses.
As shown in the accompying charts, the engine is a bolt-in using stock
brackets and frame mounts. A low profile intake manifold and air cleaner
are neccessary to maintain adequate hood clearance. Spark plug access and
steering gear clearance is tight, and the distributer requires a slight
clearance dimple on the firewall to facilitate easy installation and
removal. Late-model HEI distributors won't fit without making significant
alterations to the firewall. The stock throttle cable is long enough, but
you may need longer radiator hoses depending on your selection of
radiators. A factory 5-quart Chevelle oil pan (PN 14091488) clears the
crossmember nicely, and Hooker Industries makes the appropriate chrome
header set. If you plan on keeping the air conditioning intact, the late
model shorty compressor will require mount alterations to keep it properly
positioned, and you'll need either a two-groove or three-groove big-block
pulley to drive the accessories. The serpentine belt system on very
late-model F-Bodies won't fit in this application.
Automatic transmission make the easiest swaps, but you can still use a
manual trans if you wish. The stock bellhousing isn't compatible with large
diameter flywheels so you'll need to use a scattershield from McLeod or
Lakewood. They now have mounting provisions for the late-model hydraulic
clutch slaves that will ease the pain of fabricating clutch linkage. We
can't imagine running a T-5 transmission behind a big-block, but Super
T-10's and Doug Nash 5-speeds offer plenty of strength. Manual
transmissions will require an '82-'84 Z/28 4-speed rear crossmember and
mount with the appropriate torque arm mount for the transmission you are
using, but automatics can utilize rear crossmember kits from B&M. Serious
big-block power could also wreak havoc with the rearend. An automatic will
cushion the rearend somewhat, but you may have to consider installing a
Dana 44 or a 12-bolt with an aftermarket mount kit such as those available
from Summers Brothers. The added weight of a big-block is just about
perfect for lowering the front of your F-Body, but you should have the
front end re-aligned once the swap is completed. Hooker makes headers for
the swap, but the rest of the exhaust system will have to be fabricated.
The swap is essentially a bolt-in, but you'll need to address the cooling
and fuel delivery problems to derive maximum enjoyment from it. A larger
capacity radiator, accessory electric fans, and some means of evacuating
hot underhood air are all critical elements. Ram air cooling ducts directed
into the engine compartment may be of some help in keeping temperatures
under control, and if you're into hoodscoops or ducts, you can use them to
bring in more cool air. The stock fuel system will probably work well if
you keep the lines insulated and prevent localized hot spots in the engine
compartment, but a powerful engine running at high speed will require more
fuel capacity. An auxillary rear-mounted electric booster pump near the
fuel tank will help, but some applications might also requires an increase
in fuel line size.
As with any engine swap, there are plenty of details that require special
attention, but the smooth torque of the big-block really makes the effort
worthwhile. Big-block Camaros forever, right?
BIG-BLOCK F-BODY PARTS LIST
PART
PN SOURCE
Mount, frame, two required
14039437 Bracket, engine mount, left hand GM
334970 Bracket, engine mount, right hand GM
14039436 Spacer Plate, left hand (to raise engine for GM
14089455 clearance) GM
14089456 Spacer Plate, right hand (to raise engine for GM
14023147 clearance) GM
14023148 Two-groove big-block front pulley GM
3985999 Three-groove big-block front pulley GM
3930827 Big-block Chevelle oil pan GM
2226 Turbo 400 front-drive yoke Hooker Industries
20295 Chrome header set B&M
30299 TH200/TH700 to TH400 changeover kit B&M
20296 TH200/TH700 to TH350 changeover kit* B&M
20297 Special HD Driveshaft for TH400 kit B&M
----- TH400 kickdown switch Banks
TH350 F-Body torque arm mounting bracket kit
*TH200 uses a stock driveshaft, TH700 uses a stock '82 TH200 driveshaft
------------------------------------------------------------------------
F-BODY BIG-BLOCK FLYWHEEL/STARTER COMPATIBILITY
396/427 Engine
FLYWHEEL STARTER
Stock HD Stock HD
Manual Trans.---366860 14085720 1109534 1108789
Auto. Trans.----471591 361950 1109534 1108400
454 ENGINE
FLYWHEEL STARTER
Stock HD Stock HD
Manual Trans.---NA 3963537** 1109534 1108789
Auto. Trans.----NA 336717 NA 1108400
*also compatible with stock starter 1109534
Transplanting a Big-Block Chevy into your 3rd Gen F-Body
------------------------------------------------------------------------
This article is taken from HOT ROD magazine. May 1988 issue:
This article is taken from Stephen Cranford http://cranford.home.texas.net 6/99
Dropping a big-block Chevy V8 into a late-model GM F-Body can be a
rewarding but frustrating experience. There's no question that big-block
power breathes new life into any swap, but F-Body transplants present a
variety of problems that can be difficult to overcome. Technically
speaking, it is an easy swap, since factory frame mounts and engine
brackets can be used and all the accessory hardware is readily available
through local GM dealers and specialty equipment manufacturers. Most swaps
are mechanically easy to complete, but almost all of them suffer from
overheating and fuel delivery problems. These cars are essentially bottom
breathers with little or no front grille to admit cooling air. The engine
fits rather snugly and even the heavy-duty factory radiator is hard-pressed
to keep its cool under normal driving conditions. Increased cooling
capacity via the use of special aftermarket radiators (available from
Modine or custom built by local sources) is essential not only to maintain
proper engine operating temperatures, but also to help prevent high
underhood temperatures that cause fuel percolation, vapor lock, and rapid
deterioration of underhood components such as belts and hoses.
As shown in the accompying charts, the engine is a bolt-in using stock
brackets and frame mounts. A low profile intake manifold and air cleaner
are neccessary to maintain adequate hood clearance. Spark plug access and
steering gear clearance is tight, and the distributer requires a slight
clearance dimple on the firewall to facilitate easy installation and
removal. Late-model HEI distributors won't fit without making significant
alterations to the firewall. The stock throttle cable is long enough, but
you may need longer radiator hoses depending on your selection of
radiators. A factory 5-quart Chevelle oil pan (PN 14091488) clears the
crossmember nicely, and Hooker Industries makes the appropriate chrome
header set. If you plan on keeping the air conditioning intact, the late
model shorty compressor will require mount alterations to keep it properly
positioned, and you'll need either a two-groove or three-groove big-block
pulley to drive the accessories. The serpentine belt system on very
late-model F-Bodies won't fit in this application.
Automatic transmission make the easiest swaps, but you can still use a
manual trans if you wish. The stock bellhousing isn't compatible with large
diameter flywheels so you'll need to use a scattershield from McLeod or
Lakewood. They now have mounting provisions for the late-model hydraulic
clutch slaves that will ease the pain of fabricating clutch linkage. We
can't imagine running a T-5 transmission behind a big-block, but Super
T-10's and Doug Nash 5-speeds offer plenty of strength. Manual
transmissions will require an '82-'84 Z/28 4-speed rear crossmember and
mount with the appropriate torque arm mount for the transmission you are
using, but automatics can utilize rear crossmember kits from B&M. Serious
big-block power could also wreak havoc with the rearend. An automatic will
cushion the rearend somewhat, but you may have to consider installing a
Dana 44 or a 12-bolt with an aftermarket mount kit such as those available
from Summers Brothers. The added weight of a big-block is just about
perfect for lowering the front of your F-Body, but you should have the
front end re-aligned once the swap is completed. Hooker makes headers for
the swap, but the rest of the exhaust system will have to be fabricated.
The swap is essentially a bolt-in, but you'll need to address the cooling
and fuel delivery problems to derive maximum enjoyment from it. A larger
capacity radiator, accessory electric fans, and some means of evacuating
hot underhood air are all critical elements. Ram air cooling ducts directed
into the engine compartment may be of some help in keeping temperatures
under control, and if you're into hoodscoops or ducts, you can use them to
bring in more cool air. The stock fuel system will probably work well if
you keep the lines insulated and prevent localized hot spots in the engine
compartment, but a powerful engine running at high speed will require more
fuel capacity. An auxillary rear-mounted electric booster pump near the
fuel tank will help, but some applications might also requires an increase
in fuel line size.
As with any engine swap, there are plenty of details that require special
attention, but the smooth torque of the big-block really makes the effort
worthwhile. Big-block Camaros forever, right?
BIG-BLOCK F-BODY PARTS LIST
PART
PN SOURCE
Mount, frame, two required
14039437 Bracket, engine mount, left hand GM
334970 Bracket, engine mount, right hand GM
14039436 Spacer Plate, left hand (to raise engine for GM
14089455 clearance) GM
14089456 Spacer Plate, right hand (to raise engine for GM
14023147 clearance) GM
14023148 Two-groove big-block front pulley GM
3985999 Three-groove big-block front pulley GM
3930827 Big-block Chevelle oil pan GM
2226 Turbo 400 front-drive yoke Hooker Industries
20295 Chrome header set B&M
30299 TH200/TH700 to TH400 changeover kit B&M
20296 TH200/TH700 to TH350 changeover kit* B&M
20297 Special HD Driveshaft for TH400 kit B&M
----- TH400 kickdown switch Banks
TH350 F-Body torque arm mounting bracket kit
*TH200 uses a stock driveshaft, TH700 uses a stock '82 TH200 driveshaft
------------------------------------------------------------------------
F-BODY BIG-BLOCK FLYWHEEL/STARTER COMPATIBILITY
396/427 Engine
FLYWHEEL STARTER
Stock HD Stock HD
Manual Trans.---366860 14085720 1109534 1108789
Auto. Trans.----471591 361950 1109534 1108400
454 ENGINE
FLYWHEEL STARTER
Stock HD Stock HD
Manual Trans.---NA 3963537** 1109534 1108789
Auto. Trans.----NA 336717 NA 1108400
*also compatible with stock starter 1109534
#54
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Car: 1982 Berlinetta
Engine: 7.4 liter 454
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt chevy 4.10 gears
Re: Big Block
I have already done the big block swap but I'm looking to change my setup a bit. I want to switch from carb to throttle body. I have a donor truck with the wiring harness and ect. Any thread or links that will help me out? Thread searching not helping me much... Im also looking to put a hydraulic 4 speed manual in it, 6 speed isn't what I want behind my BBC but not sure exactly what transmission would be a good candidate for my 82 camaro... I'm on a budget so not looking to buy new parts. I
#55
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 1
From: North Salt Lake
Car: '86 Camaro, '94 Camaro, 3 others
Engine: LG4 ->L29, L32->LR4, L36, LG4, L31
Transmission: 700R-4, T5WC, 4L80E, SM465, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.23, WTB/WTT 2.93
Re: Big Block
Super T-10, preferably with the 2.43:1 first, because Pontiac used them behind the SD455 as well as many other 400-powered 'birds through '79, with the Super T-10, the numerically less the first gear ratio, the greater the torque capacity. The '82 Z28 came from GM with a Super T-10, but it had the weak 3.42:1 first gear. Anyway, everything you need already exists, you just gotta find it. You can switch it to hydraulic clutch release fairly easily, either internal or external slave cylinder, depending on what bellhousing you get.
If you're wanting more strength, but more challenge, then the NP 833. Mopar used them in Hemi 'Cudas, GM used them in C-10 pickups. The Mopar version is far stronger than the old Muncie M22s. The GM version has very little of what you'd need, but you can investigate if you like.
If you're wanting more strength, but more challenge, then the NP 833. Mopar used them in Hemi 'Cudas, GM used them in C-10 pickups. The Mopar version is far stronger than the old Muncie M22s. The GM version has very little of what you'd need, but you can investigate if you like.
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