How to get a base 350 to 12 seconds
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z Z/28
Engine: Brand new GM 350
Transmission: Stock (for now)
How to get a base 350 to 12 seconds
What IYO is the fastest yet reliable way of getting a brand new base 350 TPI with full koni racing suspension, 3.73's, torque converter, K&Ns, Modified MAF, into a 12 second 1/4 mile?
Without NOS or a Blower.
Im thinking a 383 stroker kit would be the best but if there's a more reliable way lemme know.
(Reliable meaning I can use the car without worrying about it Fording out on me)
Without NOS or a Blower.
Im thinking a 383 stroker kit would be the best but if there's a more reliable way lemme know.
(Reliable meaning I can use the car without worrying about it Fording out on me)
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
yeah id go with a 383 stroker motor run a good intake might even look into some steeper gears imo.. what size cam are you looking at ...and your gonna need a good compression ratio and good breathing heads to help you on your way ...and a very good free flowing exhaust
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
Well its not a 3rd gen its a 2nd and its not tpi but the guy around the corner from me has a 79 camaro with a 350, stock bottom end, headders with 3 inch pipe and flowmasters. edelbrock rpm intake, holley 750. dropped some aluminum heads on( i forget the specs on them) and goes 12.40-12.60 all the time.
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
I think heads and cam selection are more important than the induction set up, but I'm not very familiar with the way TPI works, so don't listen to me.
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Car: 88 Camaro S/C
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by br()bert
Well its not a 3rd gen its a 2nd and its not tpi but the guy around the corner from me has a 79 camaro with a 350, stock bottom end, headders with 3 inch pipe and flowmasters. edelbrock rpm intake, holley 750. dropped some aluminum heads on( i forget the specs on them) and goes 12.40-12.60 all the time.
Well its not a 3rd gen its a 2nd and its not tpi but the guy around the corner from me has a 79 camaro with a 350, stock bottom end, headders with 3 inch pipe and flowmasters. edelbrock rpm intake, holley 750. dropped some aluminum heads on( i forget the specs on them) and goes 12.40-12.60 all the time.
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Car: 84z, 65 elcamino
Engine: l69 and a hyped up sbc in the camino
Transmission: t5 m21
Axle/Gears: 373s 411s
headers screw 383 way over rated go 406 or bigger also id get some alumium heads nice cam 456 gears and that would do it. or you could turbo it
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Car: White KSwisses
Engine: 5.3L Gen III
Originally posted by Gunny Highway
I think heads and cam selection are more important than the induction set up, but I'm not very familiar with the way TPI works, so don't listen to me.
I think heads and cam selection are more important than the induction set up, but I'm not very familiar with the way TPI works, so don't listen to me.
Induction IS important though. If you get a miniram, a healthy cam and heads with a powerband above 6000 rpms AND chip tuning, youll be into the 12's.
But there are people in here that run the superram/ lpe 219 cam combo with AFR's that run in the 12's. The key to that combo are heads w/ good flowing exhaust because of the single pattern cam. AND OF COURSE, chip tuning.
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Ditch the TPI, get a set of vortec heads and the XE274 camshaft and you will be there.
There are plenty of people on here with streetable vortec headed 350's running in the 12's and 11's all motor.
There are plenty of people on here with streetable vortec headed 350's running in the 12's and 11's all motor.
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Originally posted by jocww
headers screw 383 way over rated go 406 or bigger also id get some alumium heads nice cam 456 gears and that would do it. or you could turbo it
headers screw 383 way over rated go 406 or bigger also id get some alumium heads nice cam 456 gears and that would do it. or you could turbo it
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Originally posted by unknown_host
Ditch the TPI, get a set of vortec heads and the XE274 camshaft and you will be there.
There are plenty of people on here with streetable vortec headed 350's running in the 12's and 11's all motor.
Ditch the TPI, get a set of vortec heads and the XE274 camshaft and you will be there.
There are plenty of people on here with streetable vortec headed 350's running in the 12's and 11's all motor.
Sure I bet everyone on here has an idea in there head as to how to get to 12's but take it from people who are actually there - for cheap! The right set of factory GM heads like Vortecs a VERY mild cam like the XE274, RPM Intake, 750 Carb, 3.73-4.10 gears, 3000-3500RPM stall, good exhaust, and some basic knowledge of tuning a car. Bam mid/low 12's without much trouble. No expensive EFI, no new motor, no $1000+ heads.
-
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
There ya go. Some guys on here seem to think 12's are hard and expensive to get to but I guess they just like spending money on building fancy 383's with aluminum heads
Sure I bet everyone on here has an idea in there head as to how to get to 12's but take it from people who are actually there - for cheap! The right set of factory GM heads like Vortecs a VERY mild cam like the XE274, RPM Intake, 750 Carb, 3.73-4.10 gears, 3000-3500RPM stall, good exhaust, and some basic knowledge of tuning a car. Bam mid/low 12's without much trouble. No expensive EFI, no new motor, no $1000+ heads.
-
There ya go. Some guys on here seem to think 12's are hard and expensive to get to but I guess they just like spending money on building fancy 383's with aluminum heads
Sure I bet everyone on here has an idea in there head as to how to get to 12's but take it from people who are actually there - for cheap! The right set of factory GM heads like Vortecs a VERY mild cam like the XE274, RPM Intake, 750 Carb, 3.73-4.10 gears, 3000-3500RPM stall, good exhaust, and some basic knowledge of tuning a car. Bam mid/low 12's without much trouble. No expensive EFI, no new motor, no $1000+ heads.
-
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
in responce to the last two replys:
fo shizzle.
good heads + decient cam on a properly running 350 with a reasonable drivetrain = 12 seconds.
you already seem to have the drivetrain, so just put the heads/cam/intake on there and go run 12s.
fo shizzle.
good heads + decient cam on a properly running 350 with a reasonable drivetrain = 12 seconds.
you already seem to have the drivetrain, so just put the heads/cam/intake on there and go run 12s.
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
There ya go. Some guys on here seem to think 12's are hard and expensive to get to but I guess they just like spending money on building fancy 383's with aluminum heads
Sure I bet everyone on here has an idea in there head as to how to get to 12's but take it from people who are actually there - for cheap! The right set of factory GM heads like Vortecs a VERY mild cam like the XE274, RPM Intake, 750 Carb, 3.73-4.10 gears, 3000-3500RPM stall, good exhaust, and some basic knowledge of tuning a car. Bam mid/low 12's without much trouble. No expensive EFI, no new motor, no $1000+ heads.
-
There ya go. Some guys on here seem to think 12's are hard and expensive to get to but I guess they just like spending money on building fancy 383's with aluminum heads
Sure I bet everyone on here has an idea in there head as to how to get to 12's but take it from people who are actually there - for cheap! The right set of factory GM heads like Vortecs a VERY mild cam like the XE274, RPM Intake, 750 Carb, 3.73-4.10 gears, 3000-3500RPM stall, good exhaust, and some basic knowledge of tuning a car. Bam mid/low 12's without much trouble. No expensive EFI, no new motor, no $1000+ heads.
-
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Engine: 5.3L Gen III
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
There ya go. Some guys on here seem to think 12's are hard and expensive to get to but I guess they just like spending money on building fancy 383's with aluminum heads
There ya go. Some guys on here seem to think 12's are hard and expensive to get to but I guess they just like spending money on building fancy 383's with aluminum heads
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by pasky
I don't see how a 383 is so expensive, if you already have the block your looking at about 1500 in work including porting the stock heads.
I don't see how a 383 is so expensive, if you already have the block your looking at about 1500 in work including porting the stock heads.
you just spent 1500... you still have ****ty stock heads, and thats limiting your power output.
thats why you end up with a car that goes slow.
Originally posted by pasky
Just gotta look for the deals.
Just gotta look for the deals.
Originally posted by pasky
But yea a 350 will get ya there, but if you got a high mile 350, why not just bore it over and rebuild it into something capable of even faster times.
But yea a 350 will get ya there, but if you got a high mile 350, why not just bore it over and rebuild it into something capable of even faster times.
if you build for power, and not cool, you go fast.
Originally posted by cali92RS
I agree with what you say except about the aluminum heads. You can get some trickflow aluminum heads for not that much. Aluminum heads are cool for weight savings and you can run higher compression on pump gas without detonation.
I agree with what you say except about the aluminum heads. You can get some trickflow aluminum heads for not that much. Aluminum heads are cool for weight savings and you can run higher compression on pump gas without detonation.
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by cali92RS
I agree with what you say except about the aluminum heads. You can get some trickflow aluminum heads for not that much. Aluminum heads are cool for weight savings and you can run higher compression on pump gas without detonation.
I agree with what you say except about the aluminum heads. You can get some trickflow aluminum heads for not that much. Aluminum heads are cool for weight savings and you can run higher compression on pump gas without detonation.
I run 10:1 with my vortecs on pump gas with no detonation.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
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btw in responce to my post above.... i quoted used vortecs since we were talking about used alum heads....
unknown_host is reffering to the still very low price of NEW ones.
just so i dont confuse anyone.
unknown_host is reffering to the still very low price of NEW ones.
just so i dont confuse anyone.
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
The question was "What IYO is the fastest yet reliable way of getting a brand new base 350 TPI with full koni racing suspension, 3.73's, torque converter, K&Ns, Modified MAF, into a 12 second 1/4 mile?" Being that is "brand new" why pull it back out of the car (if installed) and build a 383?
Here you go, exactly what you need to run 12's, its been proven time and time again:
-Your current 350 shortblock
-Vortec heads (used) with good springs.
-Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake
-Holley 750cfm 4150 carb
-Any aftermarket HEI distributor or rebuild stocker with good parts.
-Comp Cams XE274 Cam (if you have a roller block, there are other choices that'll work just as well)
-The best torque converter you can afford. If you have a stock 700R4 expect it to fail soon. You'll need atleast a 3000RPM stall for best performance
-1 5/8" headers with good exhaust, I'd put duals on it but single 3" will work. 1 3/4" headers wouldnt hurt.
-26" tall slicks or drag radials
If those easy, non-expensive, very streetable and reliable, mods dont get you 12.6 or better you did something majorly wrong.
Here you go, exactly what you need to run 12's, its been proven time and time again:
-Your current 350 shortblock
-Vortec heads (used) with good springs.
-Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake
-Holley 750cfm 4150 carb
-Any aftermarket HEI distributor or rebuild stocker with good parts.
-Comp Cams XE274 Cam (if you have a roller block, there are other choices that'll work just as well)
-The best torque converter you can afford. If you have a stock 700R4 expect it to fail soon. You'll need atleast a 3000RPM stall for best performance
-1 5/8" headers with good exhaust, I'd put duals on it but single 3" will work. 1 3/4" headers wouldnt hurt.
-26" tall slicks or drag radials
If those easy, non-expensive, very streetable and reliable, mods dont get you 12.6 or better you did something majorly wrong.
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Originally posted by MrDude_1
but the fact still remains.
you just spent 1500... you still have ****ty stock heads, and thats limiting your power output.
thats why you end up with a car that goes slow.
thats one way to save money... if you know what you're doing. lil chancy sometimes, but if you have the base knowlage, its a good way to save... not somthing for the total noob to do, but once you know what you're looking for, at, what a good price is, and how to inspect them, then go ahead and save some cash.
because.... its still a good 350. run it some more.. and get the parts that MAKE power.. like the heads and cam... possibly the induction if you have a stock setup (stock TPI, TBI, CCC, they all suck stock.)
if you build for power, and not cool, you go fast.
if you can find a deal go for it... but you can get a PAIR of assembled vortecs for $250... thats REALLY hard to beat. even when you add the cost of a new intake.
but the fact still remains.
you just spent 1500... you still have ****ty stock heads, and thats limiting your power output.
thats why you end up with a car that goes slow.
thats one way to save money... if you know what you're doing. lil chancy sometimes, but if you have the base knowlage, its a good way to save... not somthing for the total noob to do, but once you know what you're looking for, at, what a good price is, and how to inspect them, then go ahead and save some cash.
because.... its still a good 350. run it some more.. and get the parts that MAKE power.. like the heads and cam... possibly the induction if you have a stock setup (stock TPI, TBI, CCC, they all suck stock.)
if you build for power, and not cool, you go fast.
if you can find a deal go for it... but you can get a PAIR of assembled vortecs for $250... thats REALLY hard to beat. even when you add the cost of a new intake.
This is what I plan on doing when my lt1 craps out which hopefully will be at least 5 years away. I already know what parts to grab including the cam, rockers, rods and timing set. I'll end up spending about 2,200 for everything and end up with about 440rwhp with the 383. Just saying thats what I would do. You can build a very stable 383 using forged parts for 1,100. About the price of the intake.
Last edited by pasky; 05-27-2004 at 04:35 PM.
#23
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z Z/28
Engine: Brand new GM 350
Transmission: Stock (for now)
All these responses are aweosme. I didn't realize it was that eas yot get into the 12's with a 350. You guys all made my day.
Thanks,
Eric.
Thanks,
Eric.
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Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt-3.73
To tell you the truth, the 3.73 gears, a decent 3-3500 stall convertor, some sticky tires and alot of track time will get you close to the 12's. Do the simple mods, like the tb bypass, porting the plenum, runners and base, and do headers and exhaust and you should get there.
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
To tell you the truth, the 3.73 gears, a decent 3-3500 stall convertor, some sticky tires and alot of track time will get you close to the 12's. Do the simple mods, like the tb bypass, porting the plenum, runners and base, and do headers and exhaust and you should get there.
What? Those mods won't even break you out of the 14's.
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z Z/28
Engine: Brand new GM 350
Transmission: Stock (for now)
I'm gonna wait till the warranty is up at 36,000 but you think a mild cam, vortec heads, and maybe a SuperRam top end would work really well?
Oh and also keep it cali smog legal=[?
Oh and also keep it cali smog legal=[?
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Yeah, but be advised that the vortec heads require a special intake which does not bolt directly onto a super ram. You also have to plumb your headers to your EGR
#28
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Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Originally posted by pasky
He won't get that many miles out of a 406.
He won't get that many miles out of a 406.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Riley's35089rs+
Care to expand on that statement?
Care to expand on that statement?
its not even worth asking him to explain... heh..
#31
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Originally posted by ME Leigh
What? Those mods won't even break you out of the 14's.
What? Those mods won't even break you out of the 14's.
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Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Originally posted by cali92RS
Give him the benefit of the doubt, maybe he means miles per gallon
Give him the benefit of the doubt, maybe he means miles per gallon
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
Originally posted by 89gta383
To tell you the truth, the 3.73 gears, a decent 3-3500 stall convertor, some sticky tires and alot of track time will get you close to the 12's. Do the simple mods, like the tb bypass, porting the plenum, runners and base, and do headers and exhaust and you should get there.
To tell you the truth, the 3.73 gears, a decent 3-3500 stall convertor, some sticky tires and alot of track time will get you close to the 12's. Do the simple mods, like the tb bypass, porting the plenum, runners and base, and do headers and exhaust and you should get there.
uhm, call me a dope but wouldnt putting a 3-3500 in with a basically stock everything else be kinda ,, a no no?
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: auto
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
The question was "What IYO is the fastest yet reliable way of getting a brand new base 350 TPI with full koni racing suspension, 3.73's, torque converter, K&Ns, Modified MAF, into a 12 second 1/4 mile?" Being that is "brand new" why pull it back out of the car (if installed) and build a 383?
Here you go, exactly what you need to run 12's, its been proven time and time again:
-Your current 350 shortblock
-Vortec heads (used) with good springs.
-Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake
-Holley 750cfm 4150 carb
-Any aftermarket HEI distributor or rebuild stocker with good parts.
-Comp Cams XE274 Cam (if you have a roller block, there are other choices that'll work just as well)
-The best torque converter you can afford. If you have a stock 700R4 expect it to fail soon. You'll need atleast a 3000RPM stall for best performance
-1 5/8" headers with good exhaust, I'd put duals on it but single 3" will work. 1 3/4" headers wouldnt hurt.
-26" tall slicks or drag radials
If those easy, non-expensive, very streetable and reliable, mods dont get you 12.6 or better you did something majorly wrong.
The question was "What IYO is the fastest yet reliable way of getting a brand new base 350 TPI with full koni racing suspension, 3.73's, torque converter, K&Ns, Modified MAF, into a 12 second 1/4 mile?" Being that is "brand new" why pull it back out of the car (if installed) and build a 383?
Here you go, exactly what you need to run 12's, its been proven time and time again:
-Your current 350 shortblock
-Vortec heads (used) with good springs.
-Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake
-Holley 750cfm 4150 carb
-Any aftermarket HEI distributor or rebuild stocker with good parts.
-Comp Cams XE274 Cam (if you have a roller block, there are other choices that'll work just as well)
-The best torque converter you can afford. If you have a stock 700R4 expect it to fail soon. You'll need atleast a 3000RPM stall for best performance
-1 5/8" headers with good exhaust, I'd put duals on it but single 3" will work. 1 3/4" headers wouldnt hurt.
-26" tall slicks or drag radials
If those easy, non-expensive, very streetable and reliable, mods dont get you 12.6 or better you did something majorly wrong.
#35
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Originally posted by br()bert
uhm, call me a dope but wouldnt putting a 3-3500 in with a basically stock everything else be kinda ,, a no no?
uhm, call me a dope but wouldnt putting a 3-3500 in with a basically stock everything else be kinda ,, a no no?
#36
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
oh, ok thanks for the answer.
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Car: 84z, 65 elcamino
Engine: l69 and a hyped up sbc in the camino
Transmission: t5 m21
Axle/Gears: 373s 411s
yea pasky how would he not get alot of miles on it. maybe if he overreves it everyday
#38
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Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt-3.73
$.02 There is too much mis-information on this board to make any sense out of these posts. Unless you've attempted to or done it, how would you know?
Combos to hit 14's, 13's, 12's should be sticky's somewhere so people don't keep asking the same questions.
Combos to hit 14's, 13's, 12's should be sticky's somewhere so people don't keep asking the same questions.
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Originally posted by 89gta383
$.02 There is too much mis-information on this board to make any sense out of these posts. Unless you've attempted to or done it, how would you know?
Combos to hit 14's, 13's, 12's should be sticky's somewhere so people don't keep asking the same questions.
$.02 There is too much mis-information on this board to make any sense out of these posts. Unless you've attempted to or done it, how would you know?
Combos to hit 14's, 13's, 12's should be sticky's somewhere so people don't keep asking the same questions.
#41
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
Originally posted by br()bert
Well its not a 3rd gen its a 2nd and its not tpi but the guy around the corner from me has a 79 camaro with a 350, stock bottom end, headders with 3 inch pipe and flowmasters. edelbrock rpm intake, holley 750. dropped some aluminum heads on( i forget the specs on them) and goes 12.40-12.60 all the time.
Well its not a 3rd gen its a 2nd and its not tpi but the guy around the corner from me has a 79 camaro with a 350, stock bottom end, headders with 3 inch pipe and flowmasters. edelbrock rpm intake, holley 750. dropped some aluminum heads on( i forget the specs on them) and goes 12.40-12.60 all the time.
#42
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
my previous 3rdgen got into the 11s N/A
ive helped others build solid 12 second cars
and ive helped worked on a number of fast cars, including some single digit ones.
the trick to going fast is...... use going fast parts.
dont start substuting parts and expect the same result..... (examples: oooh, i dont want to run a single plane, so i'll run this dual plane manifold... ooh, i dont want a primitive carb, i want to keep my EFI but learn nothing about tuning it.... oooh, i dont want a big cam, that might make it unstreetable... ooh i dont want longtubes, but i want 400+hp at the wheels..... )
i see too often here, people buy gimmick parts that give minimal results for the money, then wonder why they dont go fast and they spent all this money. knowledge and experience are key to going fast... it just doesnt happen... but you can get ahead of the curve if you just listen to thoes that are fast and DOING IT and stop reading what everyone types online..
ive helped others build solid 12 second cars
and ive helped worked on a number of fast cars, including some single digit ones.
the trick to going fast is...... use going fast parts.
dont start substuting parts and expect the same result..... (examples: oooh, i dont want to run a single plane, so i'll run this dual plane manifold... ooh, i dont want a primitive carb, i want to keep my EFI but learn nothing about tuning it.... oooh, i dont want a big cam, that might make it unstreetable... ooh i dont want longtubes, but i want 400+hp at the wheels..... )
i see too often here, people buy gimmick parts that give minimal results for the money, then wonder why they dont go fast and they spent all this money. knowledge and experience are key to going fast... it just doesnt happen... but you can get ahead of the curve if you just listen to thoes that are fast and DOING IT and stop reading what everyone types online..
#43
ME Leigh look at mike crews....im not sure if he has changed his combo or not but there was a hella long thread about his car wich was a VERY LOW 12 second car. he was running a 383 w/ ported vortecs, i think he might of been running the comp274 cam, and mildly ported tpi. he also had an *** load of suspension work done. i believe he dynoed something like 370 lb ft and 295 hp at the wheels and was running like 12.1's or something like that. so that just goes to show 12's can be hit with tpi.
You can't get anywhere close to 12's with TPI.
#44
heres the specs of mike crews car
89 IROC, 383, stock block, cast eagle crank, stock rods, Speed Pro coated hyper pistons 10:1, Vortec heads (TPIS springs, Manley valves, screw in studs, pocket ported), CC XR269HR cam, SDPC Vortec TPI intake, 24# injectors, AS&M SS LTRs, ported plenum, 58 mmTB, cold air intake, SLP 1 3/4" headers, SLP exhaust, 700R4, 2600 stall Vigilante, LPE driveshaft, stock 3.27 BW 9 bolt, full Spohn suspension.
Track #s: 1.66 60' time, 7.86 1/8 mile @ 86.17 mph, 12.392 1/4 mile @ 108.50 mph
(Dynojet) Dyno #s: 302 rwhp & 424 rwtq (SAE/corrected)
89 IROC, 383, stock block, cast eagle crank, stock rods, Speed Pro coated hyper pistons 10:1, Vortec heads (TPIS springs, Manley valves, screw in studs, pocket ported), CC XR269HR cam, SDPC Vortec TPI intake, 24# injectors, AS&M SS LTRs, ported plenum, 58 mmTB, cold air intake, SLP 1 3/4" headers, SLP exhaust, 700R4, 2600 stall Vigilante, LPE driveshaft, stock 3.27 BW 9 bolt, full Spohn suspension.
Track #s: 1.66 60' time, 7.86 1/8 mile @ 86.17 mph, 12.392 1/4 mile @ 108.50 mph
(Dynojet) Dyno #s: 302 rwhp & 424 rwtq (SAE/corrected)
#45
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
yea but if you take out this stuff:
383 (cast eagle crank Speed Pro coated hyper pistons, + machinework.)
SDPC Vortec TPI intake
24# injectors
AS&M SS LTRs
58 mmTB
cold air intake
and add in this stuff:
MrGasket drop base air cleaner assembly
Carb
FPR
fuel gauge
intake manifold.
he would have gotten thoes same results much cheaper.
but im not turning this into a TPI vs Carb debate... i just wanted to point out that you guys could only name ONE person...(athough i think Traxon is another) and that the people who get there tweek and know exactly what they're doing.
the far majority of people never get a long runner setup into the 12s.
meanwhile, any idiot (no offence to anyone) can slap the carb on there, and with minimal tweeking, get the vortec headded motor into the 12s. cheap. thats why i reccomend it to a beginner.
and if you think mike or anyone else got their motor that fast by just slapping parts on.. then your wrong... im sure his runners and everything was ported and tweeked to the best of his abilitys.
383 (cast eagle crank Speed Pro coated hyper pistons, + machinework.)
SDPC Vortec TPI intake
24# injectors
AS&M SS LTRs
58 mmTB
cold air intake
and add in this stuff:
MrGasket drop base air cleaner assembly
Carb
FPR
fuel gauge
intake manifold.
he would have gotten thoes same results much cheaper.
but im not turning this into a TPI vs Carb debate... i just wanted to point out that you guys could only name ONE person...(athough i think Traxon is another) and that the people who get there tweek and know exactly what they're doing.
the far majority of people never get a long runner setup into the 12s.
meanwhile, any idiot (no offence to anyone) can slap the carb on there, and with minimal tweeking, get the vortec headded motor into the 12s. cheap. thats why i reccomend it to a beginner.
and if you think mike or anyone else got their motor that fast by just slapping parts on.. then your wrong... im sure his runners and everything was ported and tweeked to the best of his abilitys.
#46
mr dude
i dont doubt it at all i just merely posted the info about mike's car to show me leigh that it is deffinitly do-able in response to his "you cant come close to 12's with tpi"
i dont doubt it at all i just merely posted the info about mike's car to show me leigh that it is deffinitly do-able in response to his "you cant come close to 12's with tpi"
#47
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: auto
so how much would this list of parts cost:
"Vortec heads (used) with good springs.
-Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake
-Holley 750cfm 4150 carb
-Any aftermarket HEI distributor or rebuild stocker with good parts.
-Comp Cams XE274 Cam (if you have a roller block, there are other choices that'll work just as well)
-The best torque converter you can afford. If you have a stock 700R4 expect it to fail soon. You'll need atleast a 3000RPM stall for best performance "
"Vortec heads (used) with good springs.
-Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake
-Holley 750cfm 4150 carb
-Any aftermarket HEI distributor or rebuild stocker with good parts.
-Comp Cams XE274 Cam (if you have a roller block, there are other choices that'll work just as well)
-The best torque converter you can afford. If you have a stock 700R4 expect it to fail soon. You'll need atleast a 3000RPM stall for best performance "
#48
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
If you do a lot of searching around and get the parts used you could buy all those parts for less than $1000
Heads: $300 used, $200 max for new springs and machine work
4150 carb: $400
RPM Intake: $160
Aftermarket HEI: $130 (or more depending on brand)
Cam & Lifters: $180
Decent converter: $400 for a decent one like Torco's 9.5" or BTE's. Of course a $800 ATI converter wouldnt hurt
Misc parts (gaskets, bolts, etc): $100-$150 depending on what you need.
Could be a lot cheaper if you get some of those parts used.
Heads: $300 used, $200 max for new springs and machine work
4150 carb: $400
RPM Intake: $160
Aftermarket HEI: $130 (or more depending on brand)
Cam & Lifters: $180
Decent converter: $400 for a decent one like Torco's 9.5" or BTE's. Of course a $800 ATI converter wouldnt hurt
Misc parts (gaskets, bolts, etc): $100-$150 depending on what you need.
Could be a lot cheaper if you get some of those parts used.
#49
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Originally posted by MrDude_1
i see too often here, people buy gimmick parts that give minimal results for the money, then wonder why they dont go fast and they spent all this money.
i see too often here, people buy gimmick parts that give minimal results for the money, then wonder why they dont go fast and they spent all this money.
#50
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Car: White KSwisses
Engine: 5.3L Gen III
Originally posted by unknown_host
And so the air foil was born...
And so the air foil was born...