Formula4Speed

As of late I've grown somewhat tired of the lack of power my LO3 produces and it seems like ugrpading to something bigger will work out better in the long run. I know someone who has a rebuildable 400 block they just pulled from a truck which I know I could make some serious power with but I'm not looking for an all out drag car here. What I really want is a solid 12 second street car and I'm just trying to figure out which would be the better choice. Oh and I need to have a manual transmission so what would be able to withstand that kind of power?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

A solid 12-sec street car requires some serious work. More cubic inches is the way to get there.

About the only manual trannys that handle that kind of power are Tremec/Richmond/T-56. Or M-22, or Super T-10 (aka Richmond for new).

Did we mention the 12-bolt?

(You "need" a manual transmission???? )

88IROC350TPI

You could run mid 12's on street tires with a basic daily drivable 400SBC without a whole lot of trouble. No need for fancy rears or expensive parts.

Formula4Speed

I was thinking t-56 but I don't know exactly how much they can handle...I'll have to research that. Is there any way I could beef up the t-5 to handle it or would I just end up with a beefed up and broken t-5? When I say I "need" a manual I just mean this is my weekend fun car and personally I think autos are a lot less fun to drive. I'm just trying to get a general figure on costs after engine, tranny, fuel pump, rear-end with a good posi unit etc.

88IROC350TPI

I think you might be able to get away with a T5 as long as you don't excessively beat on it or leave the hole real hard on it. But, you're probably better off throwing it in the garbage because one day its gonna leave you stranded.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Go for the cubes....I did. But I'm in the middle of the swap right now. There's a couple of guys around here that have (stock) 5 speeds (Tom CFI400) behind thier 400's and still living.

Formula4Speed

Just to throw some more information for you guys who actually know what you are talking about. The engine is from an early 80's blazer. Casting # is 3951509 Not sure if it is 2 bolt or 4 bolt but will pull pan if it really matters to check. He's checking the casting number on the heads for me later. I don't know what to do with that casting number if I can look it up somewhere to see if it means anything to me. Oh and he said he wants at least $700 for the motor (it needs a rebuild) does that seem reasonable to you guys? This things are getting harder to come by.

88IROC350TPI

$700 for a stock motor that needs a rebuild? Tell that guy to stick that motor where the sun dont shine.

Formula4Speed

I thought it sounded like a lot too, I know I could get a 350 for much less. I just don't know what these engines go for and if its worth the money to get the extra cubes.

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

Here is a SBC 400 on Ebay, half of what that Yardbird wanted for his 400:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2470946422

Formula4Speed

I'd be getting everything from intake to oil pan for $700...sorry I didn't mention that the first time around.

DTL504

iTrader: (1)

It's still not worth $700. The heads do not flow worth a crap, intake will need to be change to atleast a Edelbrock RPM. So save that extra money and invest in performnce for the 400. Buy a block and a good rotating assembly then upgrade the heads, intake, carb, and cam.
If you want to invest from pan to carb go ahead, however you will be back hear saying your 400 engine do not make all the power that you read about. It's best to save and build it right the 1st time. Look at what it took me over 2 years and over $5000.00 to compile the parts for my 400 . You could do it for much cheaper than me, but you have to realize what you want from your engine.

Take a look at all the new parts I bought but you can do it much cheaper:
SBC 408 PARTS and PRICES
MANUFACTURE DESCRIPTION PART# PRICE
AFR
Heads 195cc AFR-1036 $1,425.00
Price include
Springs Upgrade part #8033
(setup 130-140 seat 330-350 open)
Steam Holes Drilled part#1062

ARP
Main Studs ARP-234-5501 $51.95
Head Bolts ARP-134-3701 $58.95
Oil Pump Stud ARP-230-7002 $6.50
Oil Pump Shaft ARP-134-7901 $13.95
Fuel Pump Pushrod ARP-134-8701 $14.95
ARP Cam Bolt Kits ARP-134-1001 $3.95

CLEVITE
Main Bearing MS1038H $55.00
Rod Bearing 8-CB663H $55.00

CLOYES
True Roller Timing Chain CLO-9-3100 $60.09

CRANE
Energizer Roller Rocker CRN-11744-16 $132.50

EAGLE
H-Beam 6"Rods CRS6000B3D $335.09

EDELBROCK
Elite Air Cleaner EDL-4207 $49.88
Elite Valve Cover EDL-4249 $69.95

ELGIN Solid Lifters VT1992-16 $50.00

FEDERAL MOGUL
Cam Bearings 1235M $19.00

FEL-PRO
Head Gasket FPP-1014 (2x) $63.90
Intake Gasket FPP-1205 $13.95
Rear Main Seal Align Bored FPP-2909 $18.95
Oil pan Gasket $25.54

HOLLEY
Carburetors 750 Vac Sec HLY-0-3310S $249.95

LUNATI
Flat Tappet Mechanical LUN-280/284F10 $183.71

MILODON
Oil Pump Pick-Up Screen MIL-18311 $34.95
Milodon Street/Strip Oil Pans MIL-30900 $123.49
Diamond Stripper Windage Tray MIL-32250 $74.95
Lifter Valley Screen Kits MIL-23150 $15.95
Oil Pan Baffles MIL-32500 $5.25

MELLING
Oil Pump MEL-M55 $15.95

MR. GASKET
Oil Pump High Press Spring MRG-26 $3.95
Timing Tab $9.87

PIONEER
Brass Freeze Plugs SBC 400 $14.95
Harmonic Balancer PIO-872003 $95.88
Flexplate $34.50

SCAT
4340 Int. Bal. Crank 4-400-3750-6000 $490.00
SUMMIT
Fuel Pressure Guage SUM-800115 $19.95

WISECO
Pro Tru Forged Pistons PT020H4 (0.040) $419.00

PARTS TOTAL COST $$4319.99

Here is the engine machine work that has cost me $635.00
MACHINE SHOP WORK NEEDED PRICE
K&P MACHINE
Deck (.000) $150.00
Align Honed Mains $135.00
Tap Starter Bolt $30.00
Hone Finish Cylinders $60.00
Tap 3 Oil Holes $15.00
Install Deck Plugs $100.00
Bore w/ deck plates (.040) $120.00
Install Cam Bearings $25.00

Machine Shop TOTAL $635.00
Engine Parts: $4319.99
TOTAL COST $4,954.99

Did the clearance myself, now the rotating assembly is getting balanced, and pistons mounted to rods. If I have fogotten any parts to complet this engine please let me know. I MIGHT CAN ASK THE WIFE FOR A LOAN.

Formula4Speed

Thats quite a list you have there...wish I had that kind of money to spend on this engine. I'd like to switch it over to fuel injection too but don't know how feasible that would be. From what I understand an LSA of under 112 would make the car go insane. If I did get the whole intake to oil pan setup do you think that would help save me from death by nickel and dimes? That seems to be what kills people doing engine swaps.

MrDude_1

if i recall correctly, mines a 509 also... thats a 2 bolt main..

but thats off the top of my head.


i would NOT pay $700 for it though... its going to need to be rebuilt, and the heads/intake are junk...

so you're paying $700 for crank, rods, and block... i would offer $200... perhaps $250 if they're harder then usual to find in your area... no more then that.

if he insists its too little, tell him to keep the heads, intake, carb, ect.... you might want to keep the oil pan if the dipstick is not on the same side as your current motors..

Formula4Speed

Thanks for all the advice guys, looks like I'll be passing on this one. But fear not for I shall return when I find another motor that I want. I don't know what I would do without you guys :hail:

vernw

iTrader: (2)

That's probably a good decision. Like was said earlier, the 400 heads and intake, plus the cam, would all have to be pulled off your motor if you want a performance motor and fuel injection. No point in spending a lot of extra cash on parts you couldn't use and would probably have to throw away in the end. Another choice is a 350 block and a 400 crank to make a 383 stroker motor. Might cost a little bit more in the end because of the block work to clearance the rods, but they're a lot more popular and prevalent and makes serious power. Just my two cents.

Have a Great Day!

- Vern

400Z28Racer

iTrader: (4)

400 #509 are the one of the best block around and they are 2 bolt main only.
I have 7 400s . My last two I bought were
509 complet block $450
511 short block $100
my buddy 509 short block $250