TallWhiteGuy

I am kinda of curious what is in it? Maninly the crank and the rods? I see kits for sale but i don't want some cheapo stuff. And anything else that i might need for a 383.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The "typical" 383 stroker is a 4.030" bore 350 block (standard 4.000" bore that's been opened up .030"), with a crank that is 3.75" stroke (stock 350 stroke is 3.48"). It all got started when Chevy came out with the 400 cubic inch small block, which had a 4.125" bore and this 3.75" stroke. But, the journals on the 400 were larger than the 350 crank, and the 400 rods were shorter than 350 rods because of the longer stroke.

As 400 blocks cracked and 400 cranks got scored, some gearheads got the bright idea of turning the 400 crank journals down to 350 size, which takes out all of the scored material, and put them in a 350 block. Or, just turn down the main bearing journals and use 400 rods if the rod journals were okay, then you can use .030"-over 350 pistons. However, the shorter 400 rods aren't as good from a dynamic standpoint, so most kits use the longer 350 rods with special pistons.

The factory 400's were also externally balanced, which requires a special harmonic damper and flywheel/flexplate. And, all factory 400's were two-piece rear main seal design.

The choices today are many. If you have a one-piece rear main seal 350 block, you can get an adapter that allows you to use a two-piece crank in a one-piece block. Or, there are new one-piece rear main seal 383 cranks available now, too, which are internally balanced. Plus, there are pistons that allow you to use more desireable 6.0" long rods in a 383 stroker.

There is no quick answer to your question. A good, moderately-priced kit would include forged or hypereutectic pistons for 5.7" rods, internally-balanced crank, rings & bearings. If you go for an externally balanced crank, you'll need the damper and flywheel/flexplate to match (usually an extra-cost option).

Oh, a couple of other "issues" with 383 strokers: The block oil pan rails need to be ground back to clear the rods as they swing around, and you need to be careful about the cam you pick (small base circle cams are available to maintain the necessary clearance).

TallWhiteGuy

So i am curious as which should i do. Either try to put together my own "kit" of parts i choose or just buy a kit? Which would be better, in money sense? or horsepower, but i don't think there would, would there?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Buy a kit.

Magman

iTrader: (6)

From your questions it sounds as if you're fairly new to engine building. Your best bet to learn is to work closely with a local machine shop (with a good reputation). Jegs and Summit are great sources of info and usually wont steer you wrong. Buying a kit after you have had the machine shop tell you the engine specs, bore/bearing size etc is probally your best bet. Find a book (Small Block Chevy Engine Buildups) and do some reading before you buy. A subscription to a magazine of your choice is a good idea too. Chevy High Performance - Popular Hot Rodding - Hot Rod all good magazines will tons of useful info.

westman

Well, I just got done building a 383 for my ride. I built it from scratch too. I can tell you this much, buy the kit and make sure its Balanced. The work I had to do and the money I had to spend to get this thing going was incredible. The more problems I fixed the more arose. To make a long story short you will need the following:
pistons & rings
crank
flywheel
dampner
balancing
And an assorted variaty of stuff. Like when I put my cam in and then tried to turn the crank, NOPE, gotta clearence the rods so they don't hit the lobes. Lots of little time consuming stuff like that. Anyways, I'm doing the swap right now so if you have and questions email me. All be happy to give you an extensive list of BS I had to go through.

steriko

what cam you have?
i have a compcams xe274h-10,but i don't now if that cam have the clearance

westman

I have the Holley Systemax Cam. The larger cam from the complete kit, not the intake/cam kit.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

If you buy a kit always always have the machine shop check the balance its money well spent.. every motor i have worked with was supposed 2 b a balanced kit but they weren't even touched... I even had 1 so bad it took 150 bucks worth of heavy metal...

dont buy the kit balanced have you shop do it so you don't spend money on somthing twice